Question Q6600 temperature shooting up on opening tabs in Chrome

garvind25

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Hi,

I have a Core 2 Quad processor in my desktop (Q6600). When I open multiple tabs in Chrome (7 to 8), my processor temperature shoots up to 90-95 degree Celsius. The ambient temperature is about 35 – 40 degree Celsius. Same is true with Mozilla Firefox and Internet Explorer. I checked the processor heat sink and fan – they are OK. What do you suggest pls? How can I take steps to reduce this temperature shootup?

Looking forward to your comments.

Thanks.
 
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jdominicjackson

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yeah it sounds like perhaps it is thermal cpu throttling I had the same issue, the cpu fan was not connected properly in my case. Is it the standard cpu fan from intel?
look at the back of the motherboard the four white pins should be poking all the way through. Also as said above make sure the thermal paste is on there... Although it is not 100% necessary.
 

garvind25

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Keep in mind modern software will stress older hardware to its limits. But having the hardware in optimal condition is the first place to check. I always set my cpu fans to 100% to keep them cool under any circumstances.
Thanks for the reply. How to set the CPU fan to 100%? I am using default settings.
 

garvind25

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yeah it sounds like perhaps it is thermal cpu throttling I had the same issue, the cpu fan was not connected properly in my case. Is it the standard cpu fan from intel?
look at the back of the motherboard the four white pins should be poking all the way through. Also as said above make sure the thermal paste is on there... Although it is not 100% necessary.
Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is the standard Intel CPU fan (as it comes with the processor)
 

garvind25

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One more thing.... my HDD has started bleeping at times while using the PC. The system hangs for a few seconds and then starts working again. Do you think it is a SMPS unit problem? (I am using a SMPS which is four years old). My HDD is yet under warranty.
 

TommyTwoTone66

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my processor temperature shoots up to 90-95 degree Celsius. The ambient temperature is about 35 – 40 degree Celsius. Same is true with Mozilla Firefox and Internet Explorer. I checked the processor heat sink and fan – they are OK

Ok, well although you checked them, they are clearly not OK. Buy a new Heatsink and Fan. The Artic Freezer is a great option for your CPU, performs many times better than the default Intel unit and is very inexpensive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-Multicompatible-pre-applied-Performance/dp/B0048F64DU

One more thing.... my HDD has started bleeping at times while using the PC. The system hangs for a few seconds and then starts working again. Do you think it is a PSU unit problem? (I am using a PSU which is four years old). My HDD is yet under warranty.

No, sounds like a HDD problem. Run a full error check on the HDD using the windows tool:

Step 1. Open This PC in File Explorer -> right-click the HDD/SSD you want to scan -> choose Properties.
Step 2. Under on the Tools tab -> click the Check button under the Error checking section.
Step 3. Next, you can choose to Scan drive if wanted or Repair drive if errors were found.
Step 4. When the scanning finishes, click on the Show Details link to see the Chkdsk log in Event Viewer.

If there are errors found, send your HDD back under warranty.
 
Thanks for the reply. How to set the CPU fan to 100%? I am using default settings.
There's two ways--one is typically a setting in the bios. The other is to use a small paperclip or screwdriver to remove the blue pwm pin on the fan connector--then the fan will run 100% regardless of any setting. I would use this only as a temporary solution though until you re-paste the cpu and check the fan condition.
One more thing.... my HDD has started bleeping at times while using the PC. The system hangs for a few seconds and then starts working again. Do you think it is a SMPS unit problem? (I am using a SMPS which is four years old). My HDD is yet under warranty.
I would boot up a parted magic live cd and then run the smart tests on the drive, both short and long. If you have errors on either of these (or both), your drive will need to be replaced. I would NOT run anything within windows except a diagnostic program by the manufacturer of the drive.
 

garvind25

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Ok, well although you checked them, they are clearly not OK. Buy a new Heatsink and Fan. The Artic Freezer is a great option for your CPU, performs many times better than the default Intel unit and is very inexpensive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-Multicompatible-pre-applied-Performance/dp/B0048F64DU



No, sounds like a HDD problem. Run a full error check on the HDD using the windows tool:

Step 1. Open This PC in File Explorer -> right-click the HDD/SSD you want to scan -> choose Properties.
Step 2. Under on the Tools tab -> click the Check button under the Error checking section.
Step 3. Next, you can choose to Scan drive if wanted or Repair drive if errors were found.
Step 4. When the scanning finishes, click on the Show Details link to see the Chkdsk log in Event Viewer.

If there are errors found, send your HDD back under warranty.

Thanks for the reply.

the price of the Artic Freezer heat sink in India is quite a lot. At that price, i can buy a basic motherboard with an entry level i3 processor ! I needed an Core 2 Quad processor for some specific work way back. Now I need the PC to just do net surfing and doc editing. hence investing in the mentioned cooling solution does not seem to be logical.

I ran 'chkdsk' utility on all the partitions. The test can out clean. No errors in the HDD.
 
Thanks for the reply.

the price of the Artic Freezer heat sink in India is quite a lot. At that price, i can buy a basic motherboard with an entry level i3 processor ! I needed an Core 2 Quad processor for some specific work way back. Now I need the PC to just do net surfing and doc editing. hence investing in the mentioned cooling solution does not seem to be logical.

I ran 'chkdsk' utility on all the partitions. The test can out clean. No errors in the HDD.
If you're in India and don't have AC, it will run hot due to the ambient temps being hot. Making sure the paste is good and the fan is running 100% will help with any heat issues.

Chkdsk isn't sufficient to test anything on a drive. See my post above. Running test on a bad drive within windows can wreck your data and any chance to salvage it.
 
the price of the Artic Freezer heat sink in India is quite a lot. I needed an Core 2 Quad processor for some specific work way back. hence investing in the mentioned cooling solution does not seem to be logical.
C2Q Q6600 is rather power hungry cpu. Intel stock cooler simply can't handle it. The cpu uses significantly more power than a lot of modern cpus.
It needs a good cooler (decent at least).

Deepcool Gammaxx 400 - another inexpensive option. Costs like €20.
 
The Q6600 is a very interesting 775 socket CPU, but as it uses the 65nm technology it will generate a lot of heat. Generally my Q6600 has 7~10°C higher temp than my Q9550 when installed on the same motherboard.

The stock 775 full-size cooling kit comes in two packages, one with cooper core and other with all aluminum. You probably want the kit with copper code and highest grade thermal paste and the fan should be set to "high performance" in the Bios (if available). it's a bit noisier but the temp will drop by a couple of °C.

Adding more physical RAM also helps as it will reduce disk I/O tasks when you open a lot of browser tabs.
 

garvind25

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If you're in India and don't have AC, it will run hot due to the ambient temps being hot. Making sure the paste is good and the fan is running 100% will help with any heat issues.

Chkdsk isn't sufficient to test anything on a drive. See my post above. Running test on a bad drive within windows can wreck your data and any chance to salvage it.

I have a Toshiba HDD. I downloaded Toshiba HDD checking utility and ran it. The HDD passed the test. I also tried by changing the HDD's SATA cable and the motherboard's SATA port it is connected to. No improvement.
 

garvind25

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The Q6600 is a very interesting 775 socket CPU, but as it uses the 65nm technology it will generate a lot of heat. Generally my Q6600 has 7~10°C higher temp than my Q9550 when installed on the same motherboard.

The stock 775 full-size cooling kit comes in two packages, one with cooper core and other with all aluminum. You probably want the kit with copper code and highest grade thermal paste and the fan should be set to "high performance" in the Bios (if available). it's a bit noisier but the temp will drop by a couple of °C.

Adding more physical RAM also helps as it will reduce disk I/O tasks when you open a lot of browser tabs.
Thanks for your response. The heat sink which came the CPU has a copper core with aluminium fins. I will try to add thermal paste and re fix the fan. I am reluctant to do it as I dont have spare CPU locks (in case any one of them breaks when I remove and put back the fans). Due to the lockdown scenario here in New Delhi, I cannot go to the computer market.

Regarding RAM, I have 4 GB DDR2 RAM installed in my PC. I use it mainly for net surfing and word processing. The HDD passed the Toshiba's HDD test utility (it is a Toshiba 1 TB Enterprise edition HDD) and Window's chkdsk. I also tried by changing the HDD's SATA cable and the motherboards' SATA port. Still the HDD is making squeaky noise and the PC hags for 10-15 secs and then resumes normal functioning.
 

garvind25

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UPDATE:

My PC just died. When I was working on it a few minutes back, it suddenly shut down. After 15 minutes, I tried to restart it by pressing the CPU power on button. The PC is not switching on. Even the cabinet fans are not switching on (the cabinet fans are connected directly to SMPS by the four pin molex). To rule out UPS fault, I checked the UPS output. It is Ok.

Do you think it is an SMPS failure? Awaiting your comments. Will proceed once I get your views.

Thanks and Regards.
 
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I have a Toshiba HDD. I downloaded Toshiba HDD checking utility and ran it. The HDD passed the test. I also tried by changing the HDD's SATA cable and the motherboard's SATA port it is connected to. No improvement.
Then your drive is fine and it is something else. The other thing I would do is run the parted magic smart long test as manufacturers are more conservative on what is a 'failure' since they don't want to warranty the drive unless they have to.
 
Thanks for your response. The heat sink which came the CPU has a copper core with aluminium fins. I will try to add thermal paste and re fix the fan. I am reluctant to do it as I dont have spare CPU locks (in case any one of them breaks when I remove and put back the fans). Due to the lockdown scenario here in New Delhi, I cannot go to the computer market.

Regarding RAM, I have 4 GB DDR2 RAM installed in my PC. I use it mainly for net surfing and word processing. The HDD passed the Toshiba's HDD test utility (it is a Toshiba 1 TB Enterprise edition HDD) and Window's chkdsk. I also tried by changing the HDD's SATA cable and the motherboards' SATA port. Still the HDD is making squeaky noise and the PC hags for 10-15 secs and then resumes normal functioning.

Just some quick thoughts, please replace the four Intel plastic CPU holder pins with a square bracket and metal spring-loaded screws. The plastic pins have limited number of uses and they bend your motherboard significantly. This can lead to motherboard failure.

Unless you are using Windows XP 32bit, you should boost your physical RAM to 8gb for smoother operation.

Whatever you do to improve your harddisk, it's more or less useless because of its mechanical design, it has difficulty to catch up with the system, only a SSD can hold up for longer time. So adding a SSD for Windows and use the HDD for data storing is the way to go.
 
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UPDATE:

My PC just died. When I was working on it a few minutes back, it suddenly shut down. After 15 minutes, I tried to restart it by pressing the CPU power on button. The PC is not switching on. Even the cabinet fans are not switching on (the cabinet fans are connected directly to SMPS by the four pin molex). To rule out UPS fault, I checked the UPS output. It is Ok.

Do you think it is an SMPS failure? Awaiting your comments. Will proceed once I get your views.

Thanks and Regards,
Arvind.
It could be power supply, but it also could be a motherboard failure. See if there are any lights on the motherboard and if they are on even for a second. If not, then I think the first thing to try will be a power supply. But I would wait for another day as it's not safe to be out because of covid.
 

garvind25

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It could be power supply, but it also could be a motherboard failure. See if there are any lights on the motherboard and if they are on even for a second. If not, then I think the first thing to try will be a power supply. But I would wait for another day as it's not safe to be out because of covid.
If it is a motherboard failure, then why are the cabinet fans also not working? They are directly connected to the SMPS? Just pointing out for clarity sake.

Thanks and Regards.
 
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garvind25

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It could be power supply, but it also could be a motherboard failure. See if there are any lights on the motherboard and if they are on even for a second. If not, then I think the first thing to try will be a power supply. But I would wait for another day as it's not safe to be out because of covid.
Well you were right!!! I revisited your post and decided to check the SMPS. Opened all the connectors to the motherboard and HDD, shorted the green and a black wire on the 24 pin connector and the SMPS fan started working!! So most probably the SMPS is ok. Is there a way to find out if the SMPS is able to supply for the full load?

Other than that, it is either the motherboard/processor/RAM which is dead. Pls. tell me how to check and find out the faulty part.

Pls note that there is no beeping sound from the PC.

Many thanks.
 
shorted the green and a black wire on the 24 pin connector and the SMPS fan started working!! So most probably the SMPS is ok.
It doesn't mean that.
It only means, PSU is able to start and can provide power to 12V rail.
There are also 5V and 3.3V rails. Those may have failed, but you will have no indication for it.

Other than that, it is either the motherboard/processor/RAM which is dead. Pls. tell me how to check and find out the faulty part.
You replace faulty part with known working part and see, if that fixes the issue.
Or you use another computer and try parts from your pc in this other pc, to see, which part has failed.
 

garvind25

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It doesn't mean that.
It only means, PSU is able to start and can provide power to 12V rail.
There are also 5V and 3.3V rails. Those may have failed, but you will have no indication for it.

How can I test if the SMPS is supplying 3.3 v and 5 v? I have a multimeter with me. Is there a way to know which pin of the 24 pin connector has 3.3 v and which one 5 v? Also, does a no load voltage measurement assure that the SMPS will work OK once plugged back into the motherboard?

Awaiting your response.

Thanks.