Questions about splicing the 5VSB rail

[Timlovesbikes]

First post here, hopefully I picked the right category.

I have a Silverstone ES02 Remote Control. It works great when my PC is on, however my motherboard (MSI B250I Gaming Pro AC) does not have the ability to power USB ports when the PC is off, so I am unable to use the remote to turn my PC on (defeating the entire purpose of the remote). I need to find a way to continuously power the device.

I've done some research and found that pin #9 on the 24pin ATX connector is the 5V Standby rail, so I think that's what I'll need to tap into for continuous power. This was my first self-built pc and I've never done any cable modding so I'm nervous about trying anything crazy, but here is my current idea. Please let me know if you see any issues with it, because I'd rather fry the idea itself and not my components!

1) Splice into pin 9 of the ATX 24pin connector (5VSB)
2) Split the other end into two, and splice both of those ends into the two 5V rails of a 9 pin USB male to female extension cable, or something of the sort.
3) Plug the female end into the Motherboard 9 pin header to provide the ground, overcurrent, and data rails (don't believe data is used though).
4) Plug the male end into the Remote control module.

Here are the questions that I'm seeking answers for:

If I connect the 5VSB rail and splice it into the 5V rails of the USB header, will there be issues when the pc is turned on the the USB header powers the 5V rails itself?

Do you see any risk of damaging either the USB Header or the 24 pin ATX Header, or even the power supply?

I'm about 99% sure the Remote control module does not use data, but specs say normal operational current is 3.5V... Do you think I can get away with just tapping the 5VSB, and not connecting it to ground, overcurrent, and data rails?

Will splitting the 5VSB rail from the ATX connector from the 1 original line into 3 reduce the signal going to the ATX connector on the Motherboard to a point where it could affect performance?


Lastly... Do you see any other potential problems this idea could bring about?

Are there any other ideas to continuously power this device?

Specs just in case:
OS: W10 Pro 64
CPU: i5 7500
MOBO: MSI B250I Gaming Pro AC
SSD: ADATA PCIE M.2 (512GB)
GPU: MSI GTX 1070
PSU: Silverstone SX-500-L
Case: Silverstone Milo ML08B
ODD: TBA
AUX: Silverstone ES02-USB Remote Control

 

[greens]

How does the remote control tell the PC to turn on?
Providing power to the remote receiver is a start - sure.
But if i took a 5v PSU (say from a cell phone charger) and powered the receiver on that way - it certainly wouldn't be able to turn on the PC.

How does the remote tell the PC to turn on in the first place?

 

[harrisjb78]

I wouldn't tap the power supply. In the manual it looks like you are suppose to tie into the front panel connectors on the board.

 

[Timlovesbikes]

How does the remote control tell the PC to turn on?
Providing power to the remote receiver is a start - sure.
But if i took a 5v PSU (say from a cell phone charger) and powered the receiver on that way - it certainly wouldn't be able to turn on the PC.

How does the remote tell the PC to turn on in the first place?

The receiver has power and reset connectors that take the place of the case buttons on the motherboard, but it also has connectors that allow the case buttons to pass through, so they are still usable.

Someone else has suggested using a wall adapter, which I'm sure would work if I use an adapter to provide a male 9 pin internal header for the receiver to mount to, but I'm hoping I can solve the problem without an external solution... for a cleaner look. I plan on saving that solution as a last resort.

 

[Timlovesbikes]

I wouldn't tap the power supply. In the manual it looks like you are suppose to tie into the front panel connectors on the board.

Unfortunately the front panel connectors are not powered when the pc is off, which means I can't use the remote to turn it on. The only reason for tapping the power supply is because that specific line is always providing 5 volts.. even when off, which is exactly what I need for the receiver function.