[SOLVED] R7 3800x vs R5 2600 temps

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
So today I got my 3800x as an upgrade from the 2600.

My temps are much higher idle and under load. Is this normal for the 3800x compared to the 2600? My 2600 idled at 38c-48c (it would spike randomly which is normal behavior for ryzen). The 3800x idles at 45c-70c. Yes the same type of "spike" behavior even idle but when it spikes sometimes it has reached up to 70c, but mostly it just spikes to around 55c-61c, however I seen it reach 70c idle.

I current have the clock at 4.4ghz which is .1ghz lower than its max boost speed, and voltage set to 1.42 (It was reaching 1.47 at 4.3ghz on auto mode under load).

My memory is on XMP 3000mhz cl15.

My cooler isnt the greatest, its the Cooler Master Hyper T2, but Ive heard its within a few degrees on performance compared to the 212 evo.

So is this normal or do these temps seem high? I even had to adjust my fan curve so it didnt keep ramping on idle.

MOBO: MSI Tomahawk B450
CPU: Ryzen 7 3800x (4.4ghz 1.42v)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T2
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2060 Super OC 3x Windforce White (8pin only version)
MEMORY: HyperX RGB 2x8gb DDR4 3000mhz
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 250gb / 500gb Seagate / 1tb Samsung 860 Qvo
PSU: Corsair cx550m
WIN: Windows 10 Pro
Case Cooling: Antec Prizm 3x 120mm rgb case fans with controller and 2 RGB strips / 1 default 120mm case fan
Case: Cougar MX330
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Not really. That is pretty much a Prism only thing. There are coolers with RGB fans, but honestly, they suck. Same as with the conversation we have daily around here regarding case fans, which are the same as fans on heatsinks, you can get good fans or RGB fans. There are really no good RGB fans, not for use on radiators or heatsinks anyhow. They all either lack performance, or lack static pressure or lack airflow. Seems to be getting slowly better but for the most part it's hard for them to include a good fan motor AND the electronics required to make the RGB factor work, on the same fan. Just not enough room I guess.

As far as the coolers go, the Prism is probably definitely the better cooler than your T2. The T2 is a two heatpipe heatsink, which is extremely poor for an aftermarket cooler.

The Prism is a four heat pipe cooler, sort of. It really is a modified or "split" two heatpipe cooler but technically it does have four heat pipes so there IS more overall surface area and coverage than there is with a standard two pipe version.

If you don't like the Ninja, because of it's size, then the next best option I'd recommend would be this:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8GBrxr/scythe-mugen-5-rev-b-5117-cfm-cpu-cooler-scmg-5100


The smaller the cooler, the (Obviously) worse the performance is going to be, to some degree at least. There are definitely many other coolers, some better, some cheaper, that would be good options too but unfortunately the height limitation of your case eliminates the majority of them because most good coolers are more than 155mm tall.
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
Thanks.

I mean ofc before asking here I looked around on google but I couldnt find anything directly comparing the temp difference of the 2 chips. I was under the assumption the 3800x was also 65w tdp. But I just seen some info saying its 105w. Could that cause the temps to be higher? Just browsing google the temp spikes from 48c-61c.

And knowing this info about the tdp now, is 550w psu even enough to run my setup now?
 
Last edited:

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Yes, it is normal for temps to be higher.

The 2600 is only a 6/12 CPU with a 65w TDP, while the 3800x is an 8/16 core/thread CPU with a 105w TDP.

It is going to run significantly warmer than the 2600 without aftermarket cooling, and by aftermarket cooling I don't mean the Cooler master Hyper T2. I mean something much more capable, in some flavor of decent 140mm air cooled heatsink or 240mm or larger AIO.

I would highly recommend that you consider a much better cooler, soon, for that CPU. The T2 really isn't a very capable cooler even for older 4/8 CPUs. It did ok for 4 core processors or models with 85w or lower TDP but it's just not good enough for a CPU like this one that has a 61% higher TDP (Thermal design power) than the previous CPU you had.
 
Reactions: Jason H.

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Below is my list of preferred CPU AIR coolers, also known as Heatsink fans (HSF).

Do not look here for recommendations on water/liquid cooling solutions. There are none to be found.


They are basically listed in order of preference, from top to bottom. To some degree that preference is based on known performance on similarly overclocked configurations, but not entirely. There are likely a couple of units that are placed closer to the top not because they offer purely better performance than another cooler which is below it, but potentially due to a variety of reasons.

One model might be placed higher than another with the same or similar performance, but has quieter or higher quality fans. It may have the same performance but a better warranty. Long term quality may be higher. It may be less expensive in some cases. Maybe it performs slightly worse, but has quieter fans and a better "fan pitch". Some fans with equal decibel levels do not "sound" like they are the same as the specific pitch heard from one fan might be less annoying than another.

In any case, these are not "tiered" and are not a 100% be all, end all ranking. They are simply MY preference when looking at coolers for a build or when making recommendations. Often, which HSF gets chosen depends on what is on this list and fits the budget or is priced right at the time due to a sale or rebate. Hopefully it will help you and you can rest assured that every cooler listed here is a model that to some degree or other is generally a quality unit which is a lot more likely to be worth the money spent on it than on many other models out there that might look to be a similarly worthwhile investment.

Certainly there are a great many other very good coolers out there, but these are models which are usually available to most anybody building a system or looking for a cooler, regardless of what part of the world they might live in. As always, professional reviews are usually an absolutely essential part of the process of finding a cooler so if you are looking at a model not listed here, I would highly recommend looking at at least two or three professional reviews first.

If you cannot find two reviews of any given cooler, it is likely either too new to have been reviewed yet or it sucked, and nobody wanted to buy one in order to review it plus the manufacturer refused to send samples out to the sites that perform reviews because they knew it would likely get bad publicity.

IMO, nobody out there is making better fans, overall, than Noctua, followed pretty closely by Thermalright. So if you intend to match case fans to the same brand on your HSF, those are pretty hard to beat. Of course, Corsair has it's Maglev fans, and those are pretty damn good too, but since they don't make CPU air cooling products, only AIO water coolers, they cannot join the party.

(Actually, Corsair DOES have an air cooler now, and I will revise my CPU cooler copy pasta once I have enough information to determine whether they get an invitation or not)


Noctua NH-D14 (Replace stock fans with NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000rpm)
Noctua NH-D15/D15 SE-AM4
Noctua NH-D14 (With original fans)
Thermalright Silver arrow IB-E Extreme
Phanteks PH-TC14PE (BK,BL, OR or RD)
Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Universal
Thermalright Legrand Macho RT
Thermalright Macho X2
Deepcool Assassin III
Scythe Ninja 5
Thermalright Macho rev. C
Thermalright Macho rev.B
Thermalright ARO-M14G (Ryzen only)
Thermalright Macho direct
Scythe Mugen 5 rev.B
Deepcool Assassin II
Be Quiet Dark rock Pro 4
Noctua NH-U14S
Thermalright true spirit 140 Direct
FSP Windale 6
Scythe Mugen max
BeQuiet dark rock (3 or 4)
Thermalright Macho SBM
Cryorig H5
Noctua NH-U12S
Phanteks PH-TC14S
Phanteks PH-TC12DX (Any)
Cryorig H7
Deepcool Gammaxx 400
Cooler Master Hyper 212 (EVO, X, RGB. I'd only recommend this cooler if no other good aftermarket models are available to you.)



It may not be obvious, but is probably worth mentioning, that not all cooler models will fit all CPU sockets as aftermarket coolers generally require an adapter intended for use with that socket. Some coolers that fit an AMD platform might not fit a later AMD platform, or an Intel platform. Often these coolers come with adapters for multiple types of platforms but be sure to verify that a specific cooler WILL work with your platform before purchasing one and finding out later that it will not.
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
Yes, it is normal for temps to be higher.

The 2600 is only a 6/12 CPU with a 65w TDP, while the 3800x is an 8/16 core/thread CPU with a 105w TDP.

It is going to run significantly warmer than the 2600 without aftermarket cooling, and by aftermarket cooling I don't mean the Cooler master Hyper T2. I mean something much more capable, in some flavor of decent 140mm air cooled heatsink or 240mm or larger AIO.

I would highly recommend that you consider a much better cooler, soon, for that CPU. The T2 really isn't a very capable cooler even for older 4/8 CPUs. It did ok for 4 core processors or models with 85w or lower TDP but it's just not good enough for a CPU like this one that has a 61% higher TDP (Thermal design power) than the previous CPU you had.
Thanks. It just seemed very odd as just browsing google it spikes from 43c up to 62c. I mean thats not just a little spike thats almost 20c.

Would I be better off using the wraith prizm for now or is the t2 on par with it?

Also my case dimensions are a bit thin so Im not sure of which cooler would be the best one for the width of my case. Its dimensions are L x W x H - 7 x 16.8 x 18.6 and max cooler height is 155mm and I see the 212 is 158mm just for referance.

So Im kind of limited. And also knowing now this chip has a 105w tdp, is my 550w psu even enough to run my rig now with a gpu and cpu oc? Im running now with both OCs enabled with no issues so far other than the cpu temp ofc.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
In my opinion, having just done several Ryzen builds and having used the wraith cooler on all of them at first, two that were 3600x and one that was the 3600, all came with the Wraith spire cooler, I would not recommend anybody to use them. Granted, the Wraith prism is slightly different, but most of the difference is aesthetic. It still uses the same, or similar fans for each of the Wraith fan models with the major difference, which isn't all that major, being in the heatsink and shroud designs. Testing shows that the Prism does perform a bit better than the Spire but not by all that much and comparatively it's probably not much of an improvement since I was using the Spire on some 3600x parts and you are using the Prism on a much hotter 3800x.

Even with PBO disabled, those were exceeding the preferred maximum of 80°C. I even removed the stock thermal interface material and applied Thermal grizzly Kryonaut to see if that made any difference and it did, but only about 2 degrees, which still left it a few degrees higher than acceptable.

I put rather small looking Thermalright True Spirit 140 direct coolers on those units and they dropped to about a maximum of 71°C while running Prime95 Small FFT. And they were TONS quieter, even at full load. The Wraith cooler has a tonal harmonic that just annoys the crap out of me. A constant hum that is extremely annoying.

That's my opinion on that.

Maximum CPU cooler height for your case is 155mm, so the 212 EVO (Which I don't particularly like anyhow) wouldn't fit in any case.

The Scythe Mugen 5 rev. B, Scythe Ninja 5, Thermalright Macho 120 SBM, Scythe Fuma 2, and Cryorig H7 are all very capable coolers under 155mm.

Of those, the Scythe Ninja 5 and Fuma 2 are probably the best but are somewhat big compared to the others in width etc. The Cryorig H7 is not cheap at regular vendors but you can find it through Ebay for very reasonable prices.

Any of them would be miles better than the T2 or Wraith cooler.

Going with an AIO cooler, given your cases limitations, might also be a fair option, as it supports 240mm front mounted radiators.
 
Reactions: Jason H.

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
In my opinion, having just done several Ryzen builds and having used the wraith cooler on all of them at first, two that were 3600x and one that was the 3600, all came with the Wraith spire cooler, I would not recommend anybody to use them. Granted, the Wraith prism is slightly different, but most of the difference is aesthetic. It still uses the same, or similar fans for each of the Wraith fan models with the major difference, which isn't all that major, being in the heatsink and shroud designs. Testing shows that the Prism does perform a bit better than the Spire but not by all that much and comparatively it's probably not much of an improvement since I was using the Spire on some 3600x parts and you are using the Prism on a much hotter 3800x.

Even with PBO disabled, those were exceeding the preferred maximum of 80°C. I even removed the stock thermal interface material and applied Thermal grizzly Kryonaut to see if that made any difference and it did, but only about 2 degrees, which still left it a few degrees higher than acceptable.

I put rather small looking Thermalright True Spirit 140 direct coolers on those units and they dropped to about a maximum of 71°C while running Prime95 Small FFT. And they were TONS quieter, even at full load. The Wraith cooler has a tonal harmonic that just annoys the crap out of me. A constant hum that is extremely annoying.

That's my opinion on that.

Maximum CPU cooler height for your case is 155mm, so the 212 EVO (Which I don't particularly like anyhow) wouldn't fit in any case.

The Scythe Mugen 5 rev. B, Scythe Ninja 5, Thermalright Macho 120 SBM, Scythe Fuma 2, and Cryorig H7 are all very capable coolers under 155mm.

Of those, the Scythe Ninja 5 and Fuma 2 are probably the best but are somewhat big compared to the others in width etc. The Cryorig H7 is not cheap at regular vendors but you can find it through Ebay for very reasonable prices.

Any of them would be miles better than the T2 or Wraith cooler.

Going with an AIO cooler, given your cases limitations, might also be a fair option, as it supports 240mm front mounted radiators.
I will figure out my budget and report back in a few days. Thanks for all the help.

But just so Im clear, a 20c spike while browsing google is normal still with all this info?
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
In my opinion, having just done several Ryzen builds and having used the wraith cooler on all of them at first, two that were 3600x and one that was the 3600, all came with the Wraith spire cooler, I would not recommend anybody to use them. Granted, the Wraith prism is slightly different, but most of the difference is aesthetic. It still uses the same, or similar fans for each of the Wraith fan models with the major difference, which isn't all that major, being in the heatsink and shroud designs. Testing shows that the Prism does perform a bit better than the Spire but not by all that much and comparatively it's probably not much of an improvement since I was using the Spire on some 3600x parts and you are using the Prism on a much hotter 3800x.

Even with PBO disabled, those were exceeding the preferred maximum of 80°C. I even removed the stock thermal interface material and applied Thermal grizzly Kryonaut to see if that made any difference and it did, but only about 2 degrees, which still left it a few degrees higher than acceptable.

I put rather small looking Thermalright True Spirit 140 direct coolers on those units and they dropped to about a maximum of 71°C while running Prime95 Small FFT. And they were TONS quieter, even at full load. The Wraith cooler has a tonal harmonic that just annoys the crap out of me. A constant hum that is extremely annoying.

That's my opinion on that.

Maximum CPU cooler height for your case is 155mm, so the 212 EVO (Which I don't particularly like anyhow) wouldn't fit in any case.

The Scythe Mugen 5 rev. B, Scythe Ninja 5, Thermalright Macho 120 SBM, Scythe Fuma 2, and Cryorig H7 are all very capable coolers under 155mm.

Of those, the Scythe Ninja 5 and Fuma 2 are probably the best but are somewhat big compared to the others in width etc. The Cryorig H7 is not cheap at regular vendors but you can find it through Ebay for very reasonable prices.

Any of them would be miles better than the T2 or Wraith cooler.

Going with an AIO cooler, given your cases limitations, might also be a fair option, as it supports 240mm front mounted radiators.
Hey dark I have new info!

So it seems the bracket on my mobo is cracked where the screw goes into it (into the mobo) Its lifts a bit when I install any cooler.

WITH THAT SAID, I ran furmark CPU Burn test with the Hyper T2 and HWMonitor reported temps over 101c and climbing within 1 minute, so I stopped the test.

For the sake of it, I installed the Prizm cooler, and the test does not go above 88c after 10 minutes and even drops to 86 and back up to 88, so its basically stabilizing at 88c. In game temps were spiking up to 85c with the T@ but now with the Prism only 75c max spike, with avg of 65c in game.

I did this twice to make sure I wasnt having false readings.

It still spikes though from 42c up to 62-65c while idle with the Prism. Maybe thats the bracket being cracked? a 19-23c spike just doesnt seem normal.

But anyways, I can slightly move the heatsink of the T2 when its on, HOWEVER, I cannot move the Prism heatsink as it seems to be putting more pressure.

So Im not sure if its the bracket not being able to let the T2 apply enough pressure, or if its the T2 itself as its like 2 years old and maybe the fan is failing? Or if the bracket is still an issue but the Prism applies more pressure and is new....? Its a weird situation because both coolers are about as good as eachother and both are applied on the same broken bracket with such a drastic difference in results.

Im currently ordering a replacement bracket for the mobo as wether I get a new cooler or not in the next week, the bracket still needs replaced. Any thoughts until I get it in the mail?
 
Last edited:

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I would cancel the order. If you get a replacement cooler, it will COME with a new backplate and bracket. If you plan to use your current cooler, then a replacement bracket is understandably, necessary, as well the Wraith cooler.

Can you post a picture of the broken bracket, as I'm not visualizing where the problem is exactly and would like to offer you accurate information, not guesses.

 
Reactions: Jason H.

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
I would cancel the order. If you get a replacement cooler, it will COME with a new backplate and bracket. If you plan to use your current cooler, then a replacement bracket is understandably, necessary, as well the Wraith cooler.

Can you post a picture of the broken bracket, as I'm not visualizing where the problem is exactly and would like to offer you accurate information, not guesses.

The bracket was only 6 bucks its fine. Now Ill have 2 pairs when I order a new cooler for a backup.

The bracket gets here tomorrow so when it does Ill take a photo of the broken one and post it.

Its just weird even though the brackwt is broken, the prism isnt going above 88c but the t2 is over 100c.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Anything over 80°C is hampering your boost behavior, guaranteed. You want to see temps remain below 80°C, maximum, while running Prime95 Small FFT with AVX and AVX2 disabled.

What are you doing when you are seeing the 88-100°C temperatures? What, exactly, are you running that is creating those temps?

This is ESPECIALLY critical if you are running PBO. For now, I would probably disable PBO and leave the stock power boost enabled. Precision boost overdrive is likely driving those temps up as well and there is no benefit if it is just going to throttle because it's getting too hot.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/news-pc/3492-ryzen-cpu-thermals-matter-coolers-and-cases
 
Hey dark I have new info!

It still spikes though from 42c up to 62-65c while idle with the Prism. Maybe thats the bracket being cracked? a 19-23c spike just doesnt seem normal.
The term 'spike' does not mean a whole lot without a simultaneous examination of task manager , HWMonitor, and/or Process Explorer; any task from an AV scan, to a WIndows update, file indexing, and /or a cloud sync storage, etc., might have kicked in from one moment to the next, spiking clock speed (and core voltage)on one or more cores for duration of tasks, possibly causing a 100% normal jump....
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
The term 'spike' does not mean a whole lot without a simultaneous examination of task manager , HWMonitor, and/or Process Explorer; any task from an AV scan, to a WIndows update, file indexing, and /or a cloud sync storage, etc., might have kicked in from one moment to the next, spiking clock speed (and core voltage)on one or more cores for duration of tasks, possibly causing a 100% normal jump....
I used hw monitor and there are no background processes happening the spikes. Ill report back when I get the new bracket tomorrow.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Yes, I'm quite sure the broken bracket is to blame for the LEVEL of poor cooling and the rapid jump in temperature that you are seeing. That does not mean however that you won't still have some form of a lack of adequate cooling once the broken part is replaced it will just likely take longer for it to get there, but that is all guesswork of course.

It might turn out that you get much better temps afterwards using the T2 without broken hardware so that the mount is accurate and the mounting pressure is good.

Only one way to find out.
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
Yes, I'm quite sure the broken bracket is to blame for the LEVEL of poor cooling and the rapid jump in temperature that you are seeing. That does not mean however that you won't still have some form of a lack of adequate cooling once the broken part is replaced it will just likely take longer for it to get there, but that is all guesswork of course.

It might turn out that you get much better temps afterwards using the T2 without broken hardware so that the mount is accurate and the mounting pressure is good.

Only one way to find out.
Thanks brother. I will report back tomorrow once its installed. I will run the same tests on the t2 and prism to see the differance once the new bracket is on. Then if its the same, we will probably get a cooler and go from there. I seen some of your recommended 155m or lower coolers are pretty affordable.
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
Anything over 80°C is hampering your boost behavior, guaranteed. You want to see temps remain below 80°C, maximum, while running Prime95 Small FFT with AVX and AVX2 disabled.

What are you doing when you are seeing the 88-100°C temperatures? What, exactly, are you running that is creating those temps?

This is ESPECIALLY critical if you are running PBO. For now, I would probably disable PBO and leave the stock power boost enabled. Precision boost overdrive is likely driving those temps up as well and there is no benefit if it is just going to throttle because it's getting too hot.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/news-pc/3492-ryzen-cpu-thermals-matter-coolers-and-cases
Didnt see this earlier.

As I said in a previous reply, I was just using a quick test to test the temps. I used Furmark CPU Burn Test. Within 1 minute on the t2 it got over 100c, and after 10 minutes with the Prism, it stabilized at 88c and even dropped to 86c then back to 88, etc.

Also Im not using PBO and I have the clock at a constant 4.4 at 1.42v using AMD Overclock settings in the BIOS.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I'm not going to recommend AGAINST anything that you included in that post, but I will say I'm not sure I recommend following it either, considering (No offense intended) that it's coming from somebody with no acumen here given a history of 31 posts since 2008. A sample of one is rarely considered to be proven or empirical evidence that a thing IS, much less that it's a good idea. Certainly though, having options to TRY, can never hurt, and might lead to a thing BECOMING a proven guideline.

When that happens, if it happens, I might be willing to change that stance. Until then, or until I can test your theories for myself, I'd have to say sticking to the known guidelines from the industry mainstays is a much better idea.

Also, a reduction in fan speeds also results in a reduction in performance when using the stock cooler BECAUSE it generally results in an INCREASE in temperatures at any given load other than full load which will always be whatever it is and should always result in full fan operation if there is a full load on all cores, pretty much regardless of camp or platform.

Doesn't much matter if your noise levels are lower if your performance is lower too. That's a "Be Quiet" type of thought process. Well, let's just lower the maximum possible RPM so that the decibel levels of our fans look better on paper. Who cares if it also means they have much less performance at the upper-mid to high end of the spectrum. Not a fan, pun intended.
 
Reactions: Jason H.

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Also, I'd dial that overclock back to maybe 4.3Ghz, until such time as you can do EXTENSIVE stability and thermal testing. The industry mainstays have already indicated that a 4.4Ghz all core OC, for pretty much ANY Ryzen 3000 series chip, is probably either a matter of a REALLY golden sample, or unlikely at best. Plus, even on samples that can DO it, you are probably dramatically reducing the longevity of your CPU.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-7-3800x-review,6226-2.html
 
Reactions: Jason H.

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
I'm not going to recommend AGAINST anything that you included in that post, but I will say I'm not sure I recommend following it either, considering (No offense intended) that it's coming from somebody with no acumen here given a history of 31 posts since 2008. A sample of one is rarely considered to be proven or empirical evidence that a thing IS, much less that it's a good idea. Certainly though, having options to TRY, can never hurt, and might lead to a thing BECOMING a proven guideline.

When that happens, if it happens, I might be willing to change that stance. Until then, or until I can test your theories for myself, I'd have to say sticking to the known guidelines from the industry mainstays is a much better idea.

Also, a reduction in fan speeds also results in a reduction in performance when using the stock cooler BECAUSE it generally results in an INCREASE in temperatures at any given load other than full load which will always be whatever it is and should always result in full fan operation if there is a full load on all cores, pretty much regardless of camp or platform.

Doesn't much matter if your noise levels are lower if your performance is lower too. That's a "Be Quiet" type of thought process. Well, let's just lower the maximum possible RPM so that the decibel levels of our fans look better on paper. Who cares if it also means they have much less performance at the upper-mid to high end of the spectrum. Not a fan, pun intended.
Hey dark so I got the new bracket in today. Here is a photo of the old one where it cracked



So I tested both coolers using the Furmark CPU Burn test just for quick results. And it seems the temp issue is WORSE on the T2 with the new bracket.

Yesterday I was reaching about 103c within 1 minute. Today it reached 109c within 30 seconds and the system shut down. With the Prism, after 10 minutes using the Furmark CPU Burn test Im at 91c. Yesterday it was stablized at 88c, but I think this is because when I removed the CPU to clean it, I had to redo the fan curve and I didnt set it to be as aggressive as I did yesterday, so maybe thats why Im seeing 91c today, but only 88c yesterday, and maybe why the T2 hit 109c today, but only 103c yesterday.

So this confirms I definately need a better cooler AND that something is WRONG with my T2 cooler.

With the Prism it seems to be stabilizing at 91c but I havent seen it drop from 91 then back up like it did yesterday going from 88c down to 86c then back to 88c so maybe it will stabilize at 92-93c after some more time (its been about 20 minutes and it hit 92c). Keep in mind this is also with the all core OC of 4.4 at 1.42v. SO I will try lowering to 4.3 at 1.4 n see if that helps a bit like you suggested.

SO, which of your recommended 155m or lower coolers are the best? I have about 60-70$ to spend on it. I would like it to have RGB but it cant be ARGB as my MOBO only has JRGB headers but the Prism comes with a USB plug that I can control all of its colors via software, and tbh I LOVE the rgb on the prism.

Im also open to a AIO if I can get a good one thats better than air cooling for about 80 bucks. If not air is fine.

Any advice here?

EDIT: Also, when removing the Prism cooler, it was so hard to get off that it pulled the CPU out of the socket, and this was with 1 day old paste. I was very worried but there was no damage at all. But the Prism cooler really seems to "stick" to the cpu even with fresh paste, any advice on that as well?
 
Last edited:

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I would take it all back apart and make absolutely sure you are using the correct standoffs and brackets. Typically, most CPU coolers come with different brackets and standoffs depending on which platform you are putting it on will determine which ones you use. If you bought the cooler prior to the AM4 platform even being a thing, then it won't have the correct hardware for use with an AM4 platform.

That T2 cooler is a push pin mount, so that means it's a "low mounting pressure" cooler. No way you're going to get good results on an 8 core hyperthreaded or not CPU with a low mounting pressure cooler that has only TWO, yes TWO, heatpipes. Even the lowly 212 EVO has four heat pipes.

Get a different cooler.

For 70 bucks, I'd recommend this:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dZ3H99/scythe-ninja-5-430-cfm-cpu-cooler-scnj-5000
 

Jason H.

Honorable
Oct 20, 2013
1,478
77
11,590
62
I would take it all back apart and make absolutely sure you are using the correct standoffs and brackets. Typically, most CPU coolers come with different brackets and standoffs depending on which platform you are putting it on will determine which ones you use. If you bought the cooler prior to the AM4 platform even being a thing, then it won't have the correct hardware for use with an AM4 platform.

That T2 cooler is a push pin mount, so that means it's a "low mounting pressure" cooler. No way you're going to get good results on an 8 core hyperthreaded or not CPU with a low mounting pressure cooler that has only TWO, yes TWO, heatpipes. Even the lowly 212 EVO has four heat pipes.

Get a different cooler.

For 70 bucks, I'd recommend this:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dZ3H99/scythe-ninja-5-430-cfm-cpu-cooler-scnj-5000
Well the Prism didnt come with standoffs or brackets, I was using whatever was already installed on the MOBO and never had an issue until this new CPU so Im fairly confident that the brackets are fine. Also my T2 didnt come with AMD brackets, it only came with Intel brackets so the entire time I was just using what was already on the MOBO. Also I bought the cooler about 1 and a half years ago so AM4 was already out.

HOWEVER I will say, its much harder getting the Prism on as the mechanism on the cooler that latches onto the bracket doesnt seem to line up very well, like the brackets are just a millimeter or so too low, but never the less I did get it installed and it cools a lot better than the T2 and seems to apply a lot more pressure. Im thinking the fan on my T2 is dying, it doesnt make noise but it still is pretty much on par with the Prism and has such higher temps which leads me to believe something is wrong with the cooler itself as it should at LEAST keep temps around the same temps as the Prism.

Also when removing the Prism cooler, it was so hard to pull off that it pulled the CPU right out of the socket. I almost had a heart attack (1 day old paste). But there was 0 damage to the CPU or the socket which Im thankful for but now Im scared to pull the damn thing off again lol. Any advice on how to pull it off without pulling out the cpu?
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY

TRENDING THREADS