[SOLVED] R7 3800x vs R5 2600 temps

[Jason H.]

So today I got my 3800x as an upgrade from the 2600.

My temps are much higher idle and under load. Is this normal for the 3800x compared to the 2600? My 2600 idled at 38c-48c (it would spike randomly which is normal behavior for ryzen). The 3800x idles at 45c-70c. Yes the same type of "spike" behavior even idle but when it spikes sometimes it has reached up to 70c, but mostly it just spikes to around 55c-61c, however I seen it reach 70c idle.

I current have the clock at 4.4ghz which is .1ghz lower than its max boost speed, and voltage set to 1.42 (It was reaching 1.47 at 4.3ghz on auto mode under load).

My memory is on XMP 3000mhz cl15.

My cooler isnt the greatest, its the Cooler Master Hyper T2, but Ive heard its within a few degrees on performance compared to the 212 evo.

So is this normal or do these temps seem high? I even had to adjust my fan curve so it didnt keep ramping on idle.

MOBO: MSI Tomahawk B450
CPU: Ryzen 7 3800x (4.4ghz 1.42v)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T2
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2060 Super OC 3x Windforce White (8pin only version)
MEMORY: HyperX RGB 2x8gb DDR4 3000mhz
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 250gb / 500gb Seagate / 1tb Samsung 860 Qvo
PSU: Corsair cx550m
WIN: Windows 10 Pro
Case Cooling: Antec Prizm 3x 120mm rgb case fans with controller and 2 RGB strips / 1 default 120mm case fan
Case: Cougar MX330

 

[Jason H.]

Your idle temps were high and the Coolermaster T2 is a sucky cooler, and should not EVER be used for overclocking and never would let PBO work. Your games were spiking into the 80's thats BAD.

However if you're running a stress test and ending up in the low 80's, thats not such a big deal. Keep in mind a stress test is an unrealistic load. Even the most intense game is not gonna beat up on your CPU like that. Also keep in mind in the 80's unless you've manually overclocked it will limit how high you can boost. Hence over 80 is not very acceptable because you're not getting your moneys worth.

But if you're able to game in the 60s and low 70's, you're doing fine.

If you wanted to improve, a GOOD 240 AIO could help. Such as the Corsair H100i, or my personal favorite the Cryorig A40 which is a little hard to get these days, but includes an extra fan for the VRMs. I have the A80 in my gaming system (280mm version otherwise the same) and its excellent. I also have the Corsair in my sim system, also great.

Keep in mind however both will cost you around $140 and if you're stuck with the one you have I don't think you'll get $140 worth of performance improvement. Its up to you.

The T2 worked GREAT on my 2600 OC. I had a 4.1ghz oc and temps never went above 70c while gaming. But once I upgraded to this 105w tdp cpu.... it was useless. I would still recommend the t2 to people on 65w processors who maybe are not overclocking.

And ty for the suggestion! I will see what I can pull together! WE WILL GET THIS CPU TO BOOST TO 4.3ghz WHILE BEING STRESS TESTED IF ITS THE LAST THING I DO LOL!

What type of performance increase would I be looking at, temp wise, if I got the H100i? And will it fit my case? The Cougar MX330 I believe it has front and top 240m rad support, but not sure about top. The top does have the same amount of space as the front though so..

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, I have to kind of disagree with what RL said, at least to some extent and with a caveat.

Truthfully, there ARE games that will not only present full TDP loads, but that can technically EXCEED 100% TDP, because they run AVX instructions. And they are becoming more and more common. Thankfully, you can generally assign an AVX offset in the BIOS of most motherboards these days so that isn't a terrible problem if you are aware of which games use AVX. Not knowing, and overclocking without having determined that you are compliant at full load 100% TDP without AVX running, as with Prime Small FFT no AVX, could potentially result in some thermals that are similar or worse than what you'd see running Prime so if that is the case and you play games that use AVX it's a good idea to make sure that while running Prime you are hitting pretty damn close to or below 80°C so that if you do run something that really warms you up, you are not going to get out of hand.

True, there are protection schemes, but CPUs still get thermally damaged. We see it happen often enough for it to be a concern, but it is usually a result of a poorly configured overclock or a lack of cooling. So the 80°C recommendation is for the purpose of playing it safe with a number that is pretty much known to be about where problems might start happening with the configuration if you are not able to stay below that number, given a specific circumstance.

For most people, RL is 100% correct and you'd never see those kinds of loads, but it CAN happen. Some applications could definitely do it as well.

No, I don't have a list of games that use AVX but I'm sure you can find out on a per game basis if you look into it.

Probably you are fine, just keep an eye on things and always be aware that there is potential for special considerations in some situations.

 

[Jason H.]

So, I have to kind of disagree with what RL said, at least to some extent and with a caveat.

Truthfully, there ARE games that will not only present full TDP loads, but that can technically EXCEED 100% TDP, because they run AVX instructions. And they are becoming more and more common. Thankfully, you can generally assign an AVX offset in the BIOS of most motherboards these days so that isn't a terrible problem if you are aware of which games use AVX. Not knowing, and overclocking without having determined that you are compliant at full load 100% TDP without AVX running, as with Prime Small FFT no AVX, could potentially result in some thermals that are similar or worse than what you'd see running Prime so if that is the case and you play games that use AVX it's a good idea to make sure that while running Prime you are hitting pretty damn close to or below 80°C so that if you do run something that really warms you up, you are not going to get out of hand.

True, there are protection schemes, but CPUs still get thermally damaged. We see it happen often enough for it to be a concern, but it is usually a result of a poorly configured overclock or a lack of cooling. So the 80°C recommendation is for the purpose of playing it safe with a number that is pretty much known to be about where problems might start happening with the configuration if you are not able to stay below that number, given a specific circumstance.

For most people, RL is 100% correct and you'd never see those kinds of loads, but it CAN happen. Some applications could definitely do it as well.

No, I don't have a list of games that use AVX but I'm sure you can find out on a per game basis if you look into it.

Probably you are fine, just keep an eye on things and always be aware that there is potential for special considerations in some situations.

Thanks for the info man Ill see if any games I play use AVX or in the future. My max temp with the OC with Prime95 was 84c so thats pretty close, or as close as Im gonna be able to get, while still having the performance I want lol. Im sure things will be fine. I always run RTSS while Im playing as well so I can always check temps at any time and I can hear my fans if they spin up suddenly

 

[Rogue Leader]

The T2 worked GREAT on my 2600 OC. I had a 4.1ghz oc and temps never went above 70c while gaming. But once I upgraded to this 105w tdp cpu.... it was useless. I would still recommend the t2 to people on 65w processors who maybe are not overclocking.

And ty for the suggestion! I will see what I can pull together! WE WILL GET THIS CPU TO BOOST TO 4.3ghz WHILE BEING STRESS TESTED IF ITS THE LAST THING I DO LOL!

What type of performance increase would I be looking at, temp wise, if I got the H100i? And will it fit my case? The Cougar MX330 I believe it has front and top 240m rad support, but not sure about top. The top does have the same amount of space as the front though so..

Yeah I guess I could see it working ok with a 2600.

I don't think you will see it boost to 4.3 ghz during a stress test, because there is no way a stress test is going to let your temps stay low enough for it to work. Again this is an unrealistic goal, unless you want to dump a bunch of money into cooling or remove the side panel of the case and run with a giant fan blowing on it.

The H100i I would mount as a front intake. Using it as a front intake will allow you to move the thermal exchange away from the center of the motherboard which will help with cooling the VRMs, to facilitate this you want to make sure you have 2 exhaust fans on top and 1 at the rear. As for how it will improve? I would be lying if I gave you a number, there are so many external factors. It will improve.

For most people, RL is 100% correct and you'd never see those kinds of loads, but it CAN happen. Some applications could definitely do it as well.

Oh I'm sure its possible, but I've never seen a game yet that has pushed my systems to the level Prime 95 does. Just using current systems of mine I've seen temps under gaming 10c or more less than stress testing using Prime 95. Thats with a variety of games, including some that are very CPU biased.

 

[Jason H.]

Yeah I guess I could see it working ok with a 2600.

I don't think you will see it boost to 4.3 ghz during a stress test, because there is no way a stress test is going to let your temps stay low enough for it to work. Again this is an unrealistic goal, unless you want to dump a bunch of money into cooling or remove the side panel of the case and run with a giant fan blowing on it.

The H100i I would mount as a front intake. Using it as a front intake will allow you to move the thermal exchange away from the center of the motherboard which will help with cooling the VRMs, to facilitate this you want to make sure you have 2 exhaust fans on top and 1 at the rear. As for how it will improve? I would be lying if I gave you a number, there are so many external factors. It will improve.



Oh I'm sure its possible, but I've never seen a game yet that has pushed my systems to the level Prime 95 does. Just using current systems of mine I've seen temps under gaming 10c or more less than stress testing using Prime 95. Thats with a variety of games, including some that are very CPU biased.

and my case allows for the 240 rad correct?

and wouldnt using it as an intake just be putting the hot air from the rad, inside of the case? as of right now I have 2 front intake fans, 1 exhaust by IO and 1 exhaust on top. Although the exhaust on top is the fan that came with the case and its pretty bad. I have it set to run at full speed at all times because it hardly moves air.

SO I guess if I get the H100i I would have my 2 intake fans that I could move to the top as exhausts

 

[Rogue Leader]

and my case allows for the 240 rad correct?

and wouldnt using it as an intake just be putting the hot air from the rad, inside of the case? as of right now I have 2 front intake fans, 1 exhaust by IO and 1 exhaust on top. Although the exhaust on top is the fan that came with the case and its pretty bad. I have it set to run at full speed at all times because it hardly moves air.

SO I guess if I get the H100i I would have my 2 intake fans that I could move to the top as exhausts

Yes it would, but its proven to be better than running it as an exhaust out the top. And yes your case can take a 240 radiator.

The fact the air is warmed isn't that bad if the air is flowing properly. Air doesn't have a limit of heat it can take, and by having those 3 exhaust fans they are drawing the heat from the rad as well as heat from the other components and GPU out. That air flow, that drawing of heat out, is what cools your components.

And this right here is better than the H100i and surprisingly well priced:

https://www.newegg.com/p/2SA-0005-00001

Point that extra fan right at the VRMs when you install it.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Doesn't matter. The delta isn't enough to make a difference AND as long as you have plenty of exhaust, it's never going to hang out in there long enough to be a factor anyhow. I'm not sure that it's going to offer a lot of improvement over your Mugen 5, but maybe considering that the Mugen 5 IS a 120mm heatsink rather than a 140mm one.

In any case, yes, if possible, you want it front mounted so that it is using the nice, cool, outside ambient air to cool the radiator.

What SIZE are the fans that are installed in ALL case fan locations currently? What are the models of those fans as well?

It SHOULD go without saying that if you are not bringing enough cool air INTO the case and getting the hot air OUT of the case fast enough because you have fans that are too small or lack sufficient CFM, then your heatsink is going to suffer and is not going to be able to do the job it was designed to do. If it's trying to cool with warm air, then it's performance is going to suck.

 

[Jason H.]

What SIZE are the fans that are installed in ALL case fan locations currently? What are the models of those fans as well?

The fans I bought was a 3 fan kit with 2 rgb strips and a controller by Antec: https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Prizm-120-ARGB-Controller/dp/B07FNHTQNW?th=1 The fans are 120mm and have a CFM of 43.03. The fan that came with the case, Im not sure about, its 120mm but IDK the brand. But even at max speed it barely exhausts air. But I left it in because it cant hurt anything as Im sure it adds slightly more exhausting capabilities.

The kit is Advertised to be a "Ultra Quiet" setup which is why it has a lower CFM, but how I have it set up, when running stress tests and they hit 85% at 70c, they are FAR from quiet lol. I refuse to put them at 100% as they are just TOO loud lol. BUT they do move a bit of air. They are more of a budget option for people maybe running a less pricey setup than mine and dont need the type of airflow that I do. However they keep my internal temp at 34c or below even during my long Prime95 testing, so not too bad for 60 bucks.

They look nice at least lol.

And this right here is better than the H100i and surprisingly well priced:

That looks nice. Although I do like the RGB on the H100i haha. But that one performs better?

 

[Darkbreeze]

The Cryorig AIO coolers are pretty decent. We have several members and a few moderators using Cryorig AIO coolers and they have had no complaints that I know of.

It's unfortunate, and I hope you REALLY like that case, because it really limits you from doing much with the cooling. It was part of the reason why we had to go with a weaker, short CPU cooler to begin with, it can't support a 280mm AIO and the 240mm AIO coolers really don't offer much of anything that a decent single finstack 140mm air cooler can't do AND it only will accommodate 120mm case fans rather than the much preferred 140mm models.

I realize it's more money, but it might be something you want to think about if you really want to be able to push your CPU performance which is highly dependent on having very good cooling performance.

Probably a good idea to get another of those fans for the top location if you don't change coolers, or as you say, move one of the front ones to the location where you have the crappy one at right now.

 

[Jason H.]

The Cryorig AIO coolers are pretty decent. We have several members and a few moderators using Cryorig AIO coolers and they have had no complaints that I know of.

It's unfortunate, and I hope you REALLY like that case, because it really limits you from doing much with the cooling. It was part of the reason why we had to go with a weaker, short CPU cooler to begin with, it can't support a 280mm AIO and the 240mm AIO coolers really don't offer much of anything that a decent single finstack 140mm air cooler can't do AND it only will accommodate 120mm case fans rather than the much preferred 140mm models.

I realize it's more money, but it might be something you want to think about if you really want to be able to push your CPU performance which is highly dependent on having very good cooling performance.

Probably a good idea to get another of those fans for the top location if you don't change coolers, or as you say, move one of the front ones to the location where you have the crappy one at right now.

The case was only 35$ when I purchased it, but now its 50$. Im not really attached to the case I mean its nice and all, I dont like the Acrylic side panel as even though I have not banged it up at all it has scratches and scuffs on the acrylic for NO reason lol. Also Id rather not rebuild my PC but if it will help performance Id be willing to look into changing cases. But I couldnt afford to do the case, and the new cooler at the same time.

What would you recommend I do 1st? The case so I have the option down the road to get a 280 rad and 140mm fans?

If so, what would you recommend? IDEK my budget yet, this wouldnt be for a couple weeks at least. A cpl weeks ago I seen a really nice NZXT case for like 60$ but it was on sale so Im sure its higher now.

I do know the case MUST have a hidden PSU bay. I dont want my psu and cables all over the bottom of the case in view.

Keep in mind, I bought all this when I was just running a 1060 3gb and a 2600. Ive upgraded my gpu and cpu since, I keep forgetting how much of a money pit PCs are lol.

 

[Darkbreeze]

The case so I have the option down the road to get a 280 rad and 140mm fans?

In my opinion, yes. Others may not agree, but in my experience it makes a difference. Consider, if you ONLY factor in the two exhaust fans, and we use your current fans as an example, yours have 43CFM. The 140mm version of your Antec fans have 65CFM. That's a 22CFM difference per fan, so with two of them, assuming you use THOSE fans (Which would likely NOT be what I'd recommend anyhow) you'd be looking at a 44CFM difference which is like adding a whole extra fan of the model you are running now, without adding a third exhaust fan, or intake, or whatever. You see the point?

Three 43CFM 120mm fans is 129CFM. Two of the 140mm Prism fans is 130CFM. SO there is actually MORE airflow with two of those 140mm fans than with three 120mm fans, and it's a whole lot quieter with two 140mm fans than it is with three 120mm fans OR two 120mm fans trying to keep up with two 140mm fans by running at a higher RPM to account for the reduction in airflow.

Honestly I don't much recommend RGB fans if performance is the primary goal, because there really aren't any really good RGB fans out there in terms of pure performance. The fans you have, are halfway decent though, for an RGB fan, if used as an intake fan, on a heatsink or on a radiator, since they have decent static pressure, but they have a fairly low CFM compared to a lot of other fans that are not RGB.

I have yet to see any case fans with RGB that have great performance. It's too hard to fit a high quality, high capacity motor AND the electronics for the RGB, in the space traditionally just used for the fan motor, so something has to give.

Also, thought you might be able to help this guy out if you have time.

Question - Cougar mx330 case

Can someone please take a picture of the power supply air filter my case didnt come with one and the one they sent me dont fit

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Jason H.]

In my opinion, yes. Others may not agree, but in my experience it makes a difference. Consider, if you ONLY factor in the two exhaust fans, and we use your current fans as an example, yours have 43CFM. The 140mm version of your Antec fans have 65CFM. That's a 22CFM difference per fan, so with two of them, assuming you use THOSE fans (Which would likely NOT be what I'd recommend anyhow) you'd be looking at a 44CFM difference which is like adding a whole extra fan of the model you are running now, without adding a third exhaust fan, or intake, or whatever. You see the point?

Three 43CFM 120mm fans is 129CFM. Two of the 140mm Prism fans is 130CFM. SO there is actually MORE airflow with two of those 140mm fans than with three 120mm fans, and it's a whole lot quieter with two 140mm fans than it is with three 120mm fans OR two 120mm fans trying to keep up with two 140mm fans by running at a higher RPM to account for the reduction in airflow.

Honestly I don't much recommend RGB fans if performance is the primary goal, because there really aren't any really good RGB fans out there in terms of pure performance. The fans you have, are halfway decent though, for an RGB fan, if used as an intake fan, on a heatsink or on a radiator, since they have decent static pressure, but they have a fairly low CFM compared to a lot of other fans that are not RGB.

I have yet to see any case fans with RGB that have great performance. It's too hard to fit a high quality, high capacity motor AND the electronics for the RGB, in the space traditionally just used for the fan motor, so something has to give.

Also, thought you might be able to help this guy out if you have time.

Question - Cougar mx330 case

Can someone please take a picture of the power supply air filter my case didnt come with one and the one they sent me dont fit

forums.tomshardware.com

Well, Im 1 of the people most tech gurus hate. I LOVE RGB LOL. Ive always wanted a cool looking build. I always was jealous of the people who had great looking builds so when I finally decided to build a decent PC (my old one was on the FM2 port lmfao, this was last year! LOL) I optd to get a bunch of RGB so I could see the beauty of my work lol.

I have found out though, which doesnt need any thinking to realize, RGB does NOT add performance lol. But without RGB, it just looks..... bla. lol.

I mean I wouldnt be opposed to getting fans without RGB, but I do MUCH more prefer them to have it. And Im sure any RGB fans that ARE any good, or up to your minimum standard, would probably be slightly out of my budget lol.

WITH THAT SAID... What case would you recommend up to 100 bucks? I would really like to only spend like 60$ but if I cant, I cant. Also what are some good more budget friendly fan options? Prefer RGB but, if not, so be it. But IDK how else to make my PC look cool lol.

AND YES, I will take a look at that thread right now I have tomorrow off and Im drinking a couple drinks have nothing better to do lol. (I posted the pic for him)

 

[Darkbreeze]

I agree, having SOME RGB does look good. I'm a fan of RGB in reasonable doses. I'm not a fan of RGB if it means having to choose between it and performance on a critical part, and for me, cooling is critical because I'm an overclocker in most cases.

For my purposes, RGB lighting strips are good enough, but what I like isn't for everybody.

This is my build, and I think there's plenty of lighting, without having to have it on the fans.

 

[Jason H.]

I agree, having SOME RGB does look good. I'm a fan of RGB in reasonable doses. I'm not a fan of RGB if it means having to choose between it and performance on a critical part, and for me, cooling is critical because I'm an overclocker in most cases.

For my purposes, RGB lighting strips are good enough, but what I like isn't for everybody.

This is my build, and I think there's plenty of lighting, without having to have it on the fans.

Ugh that lighting on the founders 2060 is super nice. I almost got a founders but I was tricked into buying a factory OC version neglecting that a founders card could likely pass the factory oc, with a trade off of noise.

But u forgot to give me your case, and fan recommendations lol.

 

[Darkbreeze]

That's not an FE card. That's an EVGA XC Ultra gaming RTX 2060 Super. It was the best RTX 2060 Super you could get at the time that I bought it. I probably should have bought an RTX 2070 Super, but I don't game nearly as much as I used to AND I don't mind medium to high settings at 1440p for most games anyhow. A lot of stuff I can still run at Ultra 1440p anyway, so it was probably better to not invest another 150 bucks at the time I bought that because the extra 16GB of RAM for a total of 32GB comes in a lot more useful for the types of things I do anyway.

Also, I'm using an EVGA Powerlink PCIe power adapter on the graphics card as well.

EVGA - Articles - EVGA PowerLink™

The EVGA PowerLink™ has one primary function: to make your PC look even more awesome. This adapter allows you to reroute the power inputs for your graphics card, giving you improved case airflow, a lower profile height, and best of all, cleaner wiring setup. It even supports a unique...

www.evga.com

 

[Darkbreeze]

I will get with you on some case and fan recommendations, food for thought anyhow, tomorrow. I gotta hit the sack. I'm beat. LOL.

 

[Jason H.]

That's not an FE card. That's an EVGA XC Ultra gaming RTX 2060 Super

haha shows how much I know. The lighting on my Gigabyte Gaming OC version is dim in the right part of the Y, and the left part of the T. Kind of like a dim circle. It bothers me so much lol, doesnt show up on camera though. But it wasnt worth sending it back and all that so I just kept it because it performs well and I even was able to pull off a small manual oc on top of the factory oc, so win win.

I will get with you on some case and fan recommendations, food for thought anyhow, tomorrow. I gotta hit the sack. I'm beat. LOL.

No problem man! Thank you for sticking this whole thread out with me man I know theres been a lot of stuff but we are figuring it out little by little lol. I have the next 2 days off as well so that helps lol. Talk to ya tomorrow, be safe Dark!

 

[Rogue Leader]

That looks nice. Although I do like the RGB on the H100i haha. But that one performs better?

I have the 280mm version of the Cryorig and IMO it does perform better. They both use the same pump, the Cryorig radiator is a tiny bit thicker, and I think the extra fan on the Cryorig is very helpful.

That said I have an H100i as well on my sim system, at the time they Cryorig was not available, and also I wanted a lot of RGB. Check out the links in my signature you can see what I mean. It does very well too. My systems are a bit different as I run them in negative pressure. Advantages of having cases with filters in cool dust free basements, and set up where that is conducive.

I agree with Darkbreeze that is kind of a lame case when it comes to cooling design, you get what you pay for. Thats not to say you need super expensive cases like I have, but there are way better options in the $50-$100 range.

I also have to agree with Darkbreeze on RGB fans, in sticking the RGB electronics along the housing or blades they shrink a bit and performance suffers. For example the Corsair ML120 which is a great fan, the regular one is 75cfm, the RGB one is 43.5cfm. Now that said if you want a solid color there is a good compromise in the ML120 LED, which you can buy in a specific color. Those fans are the same spec, 75cfm. If you look at my Gaming system those are all ML120 and 140 LED fans. My Sim system has LL120 RGB fans, they look cool but performance is definitely lower, and the fans get loud, exacerbated by the tiny case. I built that one for looks so it is what it is. Also I wear headphones when using that one so I don't hear it. That said I still get almost 4.5ghz PBO out of my 3700X with that one, and it doesn't go over 71c. Mainly driven by my cooling design.

Please note I'm NOT trying to sell you on Negative pressure, I just want to show these parts can perform well when set up right. You need some fairly specific case designs for Negative pressure to work, and you really need to know what you're doing. If you see my gaming system it has an absurd amount of fans and both the CPU AND GPU are water cooled to make this work.

Where I somewhat disagree with Darkbreeze is I do think a 240 AIO will outperform your air cooler in this case, mainly because your case doesn't have the best airflow, so I feel moving the heat exchange to the front of the case and putting cold air directly on it will benefit you. That said if you think you're going to buy a better case, buy parts around what you plan to get. For example if you get a better case that can fit a 280mm AIO, then save for that.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I do think a 240 AIO will outperform your air cooler in this case, mainly because your case doesn't have the best airflow, so I feel moving the heat exchange to the front of the case and putting cold air directly on it will benefit you. That said if you think you're going to buy a better case, buy parts around what you plan to get. For example if you get a better case that can fit a 280mm AIO, then save for that.

I don't disagree with this, and if I said anything to the contrary it was unintended. What I said was, that the 240mm AIO coolers do not, for the most part, outperform a good 140mm air cooler. They absolutely outperform most 120mm air cooled heatsinks. The only reason we went with a 120mm heatsink was because of the case and I apologize for that, I should have recommended previously that you change the case first and insist on higher end cooling considering the 3800x characteristics. I think maybe in the beginning I goofed and was thinking you were running or going to run a 3600x, not a 3800x. Regardless, the cooler you have now should STILL be better than the stock cooler, and I think it is, but not necessarily for the kind of overclock or PBO performance you are desiring to be capable of.

 

[Jason H.]

So I got 100$ today for my 1060 3gb. What should I do?

 

[Rogue Leader]

So I got 100$ today for my 1060 3gb. What should I do?

Put it in an envelope and mail it to me.

You need to decide how much you want to spend. For $99 you can get the A40 and repurpose your front fans. For less you can buy all new higher CFM fans and try that. Or you can save and buy a better case and a 280mm AIO. Up to you.

 

[Jason H.]

Put it in an envelope and mail it to me.

You need to decide how much you want to spend. For $99 you can get the A40 and repurpose your front fans. For less you can buy all new higher CFM fans and try that. Or you can save and buy a better case and a 280mm AIO. Up to you.

Well Im still selling my r5 2600 and my ram kit. Should be another 100-115$ when they fo sell. So ill be spending about 200-220$.

Since Im going to need a new case to further upgrade my cooling I want to do the case first.

Any suggestions?

 

[Rogue Leader]

Well Im still selling my r5 2600 and my ram kit. Should be another 100-115$ when they fo sell. So ill be spending about 200-220$.

Since Im going to need a new case to further upgrade my cooling I want to do the case first.

Any suggestions?

Phanteks, Fractal Design, InWin, Corsair, Silverstone.

Cases are more of a personal choice, find some you like the look of and share them here and Darkbreeze and I can take a look to see what would work.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I'll have some case recommendations for you after dinner. In the meantime, if there are any aesthetic considerations you would REALLY like to see a new case have, such as particular features, colors, etc. etc., let me know so I can be sure to only make recommendations that try to fit the requirements. I'm sure RL has some ideas as well. Primarily you want something with an open mesh front, for good airflow characteristists, and support for 140mm fans in all fan locations, plus support for at least 280mm front mounted radiators.

 

[Jason H.]

I'll have some case recommendations for you after dinner. In the meantime, if there are any aesthetic considerations you would REALLY like to see a new case have, such as particular features, colors, etc. etc., let me know so I can be sure to only make recommendations that try to fit the requirements. I'm sure RL has some ideas as well. Primarily you want something with an open mesh front, for good airflow characteristists, and support for 140mm fans in all fan locations, plus support for at least 280mm front mounted radiators.

Welllll my current case dooeeesss have an all mesh front. If you thought it didnt, and mesh top. Just in case thats the main reason for switching other than 280mm rad support. Its kind of why I got it because it was 1 of the only options at its price point that had good ventilation.

And I would like it to be either all black, or if NZXT, maybe white and black? I want to be able to use a bunch of diffect colors on my RBG and the case still flow with the colors, yano? So neutral colors no primarys. Also it MUST have a hidden bottom bay for psu and cables.

THANKS AHEAD OF TIME! Ill edit my comment to include some I like in a couple minutes I will look now.

EDIT: So I just made a decision. I would like to stick with 240mm rad support lol. Reason being, I dont want a big case. And most Im seeing for my price range, I dont even like lol. The NZXT ones Im seeing also only have 1 fan on top and only 240mm rad support. SO I think I might just stick with 240mm. Maybe it would be more wise spent if i got a 240mm aio and some better fans for my current case? Thoughts?