[SOLVED] R7 3800x vs R5 2600 temps

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So today I got my 3800x as an upgrade from the 2600.

My temps are much higher idle and under load. Is this normal for the 3800x compared to the 2600? My 2600 idled at 38c-48c (it would spike randomly which is normal behavior for ryzen). The 3800x idles at 45c-70c. Yes the same type of "spike" behavior even idle but when it spikes sometimes it has reached up to 70c, but mostly it just spikes to around 55c-61c, however I seen it reach 70c idle.

I current have the clock at 4.4ghz which is .1ghz lower than its max boost speed, and voltage set to 1.42 (It was reaching 1.47 at 4.3ghz on auto mode under load).

My memory is on XMP 3000mhz cl15.

My cooler isnt the greatest, its the Cooler Master Hyper T2, but Ive heard its within a few degrees on performance compared to the 212 evo.

So is this normal or do these temps seem high? I even had to adjust my fan curve so it didnt keep ramping on idle.

MOBO: MSI Tomahawk B450
CPU: Ryzen 7 3800x (4.4ghz 1.42v)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T2
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2060 Super OC 3x Windforce White (8pin only version)
MEMORY: HyperX RGB 2x8gb DDR4 3000mhz
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 250gb / 500gb Seagate / 1tb Samsung 860 Qvo
PSU: Corsair cx550m
WIN: Windows 10 Pro
Case Cooling: Antec Prizm 3x 120mm rgb case fans with controller and 2 RGB strips / 1 default 120mm case fan
Case: Cougar MX330
 
Solution
Not really. That is pretty much a Prism only thing. There are coolers with RGB fans, but honestly, they suck. Same as with the conversation we have daily around here regarding case fans, which are the same as fans on heatsinks, you can get good fans or RGB fans. There are really no good RGB fans, not for use on radiators or heatsinks anyhow. They all either lack performance, or lack static pressure or lack airflow. Seems to be getting slowly better but for the most part it's hard for them to include a good fan motor AND the electronics required to make the RGB factor work, on the same fan. Just not enough room I guess.

As far as the coolers go, the Prism is probably definitely the better cooler than your T2. The T2 is a two heatpipe...
Couldn't hurt, since you like that case anyhow. Maybe you can return the Scythe cooler. Should still be well within the return period.

That Cryorig cooler is probably a good choice, and so is the Corsair iCue H100i RGB Pro XT. As for case fans, my preferred choices are always going to be Noctua and Thermalright, but there are a few others out there that are half decent. I think the ones you have now are probably fine if you get rid of the crappy top one. If you want to get some that are better, with a higher volume of airflow for the two exhaust fan locations, then you don't particularly need anything with high static pressure. They only need to have good CFM because there is little resistance to the airflow for an exhaust fan, and generally they are even blowing towards a negative pressure differential since the pressure inside the case is usually higher than the outside pressure.

The only problem with the fans you have now is that they have relatively low CFM. But, that might be ok. I'd move one of your front fans to replace that old crappy fan, put your AIO in and see if you even need to do anything regarding a change of fans for the exhaust.
 
Couldn't hurt, since you like that case anyhow. Maybe you can return the Scythe cooler. Should still be well within the return period.

That Cryorig cooler is probably a good choice, and so is the Corsair iCue H100i RGB Pro XT. As for case fans, my preferred choices are always going to be Noctua and Thermalright, but there are a few others out there that are half decent. I think the ones you have now are probably fine if you get rid of the crappy top one. If you want to get some that are better, with a higher volume of airflow for the two exhaust fan locations, then you don't particularly need anything with high static pressure. They only need to have good CFM because there is little resistance to the airflow for an exhaust fan, and generally they are even blowing towards a negative pressure differential since the pressure inside the case is usually higher than the outside pressure.

The only problem with the fans you have now is that they have relatively low CFM. But, that might be ok. I'd move one of your front fans to replace that old crappy fan, put your AIO in and see if you even need to do anything regarding a change of fans for the exhaust.

Well, the Cryorig doesnt support AM4, so theres that lol. Highest it supports is AM3+.

The Corsair does support AM4. I will order it now.
 
Yeah, there is ZERO question that it would support AM4. In fact, it says so right on the product page. Don't ever go by what you see in the descriptions on Amazon or Newegg. They don't ever update those marketing descriptions after the initial product release in practically every case, even when there are major revisions to the hardware.

http://www.cryorig.com/a-series_us.php

Trust the manufacturers pages. Well, trust them "more" anyhow. Sometimes they don't always update their stuff either, but in this case, it clearly shows AM4 support for the A40, A40 Ultimate and A80. IF you can find the A40 ultimate anywhere, it is the better cooler, because it has a significantly thicker radiator than the standard A40.

To be honest, if you REALLY want terrific performance from a 240mm AIO, you can choose pretty much any of the recommended models and then slap a pair of high quality, high static pressure Noctua or Thermalright 120mm fans on there. The Noctua NF-F12 chromax.black.swap iPPC 2000rpm fans with their almost 4mm H20 static pressure and 71CFM they have almost double the CFM and static pressure of those RGB fans you have right now, which themselves are probably some of the better RGB fans out there in terms of usage on a heatsink or radiator, for a consumer type fan. As I said before, there really aren't any really standout performance RGB fans that have those kind of numbers yet. I'm sure we'll get there, and the fans you have are a significant step up, but for most manufacturers, like Corsair too, when you go from non-RGB versions of their fans to RGB versions, there is a huge reduction in the level of performance pretty much across the board. It WILL translate into less than exemplary performance, if performance is the biggest criteria, when used on a heatsink or radiator. Some aren't looking for that extra performance and just want the aesthetic.

That Corsair cooler I mentioned before is not RGB either, but it's a darn good one, for what it is. Honestly I'm not sure that the Cryorig is the better choice, but both are GOOD choices in any case.
 
Yeah, there is ZERO question that it would support AM4. In fact, it says so right on the product page. Don't ever go by what you see in the descriptions on Amazon or Newegg. They don't ever update those marketing descriptions after the initial product release in practically every case, even when there are major revisions to the hardware.

http://www.cryorig.com/a-series_us.php

Trust the manufacturers pages. Well, trust them "more" anyhow. Sometimes they don't always update their stuff either, but in this case, it clearly shows AM4 support for the A40, A40 Ultimate and A80. IF you can find the A40 ultimate anywhere, it is the better cooler, because it has a significantly thicker radiator than the standard A40.

To be honest, if you REALLY want terrific performance from a 240mm AIO, you can choose pretty much any of the recommended models and then slap a pair of high quality, high static pressure Noctua or Thermalright 120mm fans on there. The Noctua NF-F12 chromax.black.swap iPPC 2000rpm fans with their almost 4mm H20 static pressure and 71CFM they have almost double the CFM and static pressure of those RGB fans you have right now, which themselves are probably some of the better RGB fans out there in terms of usage on a heatsink or radiator, for a consumer type fan. As I said before, there really aren't any really standout performance RGB fans that have those kind of numbers yet. I'm sure we'll get there, and the fans you have are a significant step up, but for most manufacturers, like Corsair too, when you go from non-RGB versions of their fans to RGB versions, there is a huge reduction in the level of performance pretty much across the board. It WILL translate into less than exemplary performance, if performance is the biggest criteria, when used on a heatsink or radiator. Some aren't looking for that extra performance and just want the aesthetic.

That Corsair cooler I mentioned before is not RGB either, but it's a darn good one, for what it is. Honestly I'm not sure that the Cryorig is the better choice, but both are GOOD choices in any case.

I was on the product page and it only had up to AM3+ ? Unless I missed something?

Oops yep, It was BEFORE the AM3+ circle. I figured AM4 would have been at the end. My mistake!

And heres the deal. I havent ordered it yet. Here is why.

I was sitting there lastnite, I was on the LAST page of Newegg, 1 click away from completeing the order. And I just didnt do it. I was thinking to myself, is it really worth 120-150$ to get a 3-5c drop under stress tests? I mean while Im in game, I max out at 65c (with the manual OC) and thats about the hardest Ill ever be pushing this PC. Of course until higher demanding games come out.

So I was hesitant to complete the purchase and i started thinking maybe the 120-150$ would be better spent upgrading my ram from 3000mhz to 3600mhz and just buying some better fans for my case. However my MOBO only supports up to 3455mhz ram. Even on Corsairs website where they are comparing the h100i to a performance air cooler, there was only a 3c differance. Of course there are other things to take into account like, the AIO would have lower SPIKES as its able to maintain its thermals better.

Im in a slump right now. Not 100% sure exactly what I want to do anymore lol.
 
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Well, you know what my advice would be. Same as it would have been from the start. A case that would support some kind of 140mm heatsink fan cooler and a 140mm heatsink fan cooler. LOL.

But, obviously this is all up to you. Maybe you should JUST replace that oddball fan for now, and see how it does. I'm doubtful though because if as I recommended earlier in this thread, if you have removed the side panel and ran the system that way, and did not see any changes, at all, in CPU thermals, then additions or changes of case fans are unlikely to bring any major differences. Still probably a good idea to replace that fan anyway, but not with the expectation that it's going to make a big difference. Maybe a small one.

A larger heatsink, a solid performing AIO, larger case fans all the way around or some combination of all these, are probably necessary to effect any real changes.

It's too bad, because if that MX330 was just a little wider so that it could support 140mm fans and offer a bit more room on the back of the motherboard tray for drive mounting and cable management, it would be a SERIOUS contender for one of the best case choices out there in terms of being functionally superior while looking very nice AND having terrific airflow due to a front panel that is not only unrestricted mesh, but doesn't look like a 5th grader designed it. Just an inch wider and it's a nearly perfect case. Unfortunately, it's not, so it's lacking. Seems almost everything out there lacks something, and none of them is the whole package. Either they lack the unrestricted airflow, they are too narrow, they are too big, they are too expensive or they are just plain fugly.
 
Well, you know what my advice would be. Same as it would have been from the start. A case that would support some kind of 140mm heatsink fan cooler and a 140mm heatsink fan cooler. LOL.

But, obviously this is all up to you. Maybe you should JUST replace that oddball fan for now, and see how it does. I'm doubtful though because if as I recommended earlier in this thread, if you have removed the side panel and ran the system that way, and did not see any changes, at all, in CPU thermals, then additions or changes of case fans are unlikely to bring any major differences. Still probably a good idea to replace that fan anyway, but not with the expectation that it's going to make a big difference. Maybe a small one.

A larger heatsink, a solid performing AIO, larger case fans all the way around or some combination of all these, are probably necessary to effect any real changes.

It's too bad, because if that MX330 was just a little wider so that it could support 140mm fans and offer a bit more room on the back of the motherboard tray for drive mounting and cable management, it would be a SERIOUS contender for one of the best case choices out there in terms of being functionally superior while looking very nice AND having terrific airflow due to a front panel that is not only unrestricted mesh, but doesn't look like a 5th grader designed it. Just an inch wider and it's a nearly perfect case. Unfortunately, it's not, so it's lacking. Seems almost everything out there lacks something, and none of them is the whole package. Either they lack the unrestricted airflow, they are too narrow, they are too big, they are too expensive or they are just plain fugly.

Yea there was only a 1c differance when I removed the sidepanel so airflow just doesnt seem to be a factor with this case. Of course with some better fans theres always room for some improvement though.

And yes! Everything you just said about this case is so true! For what I paid for it (35$) its honestly one of the best cases Ive ever used. Of course its not as good as some higher tier stuff but for the price/performance aspect and even the price/functionality, its great! It even looks really slick and nice. My BIGGEST complaint is the Acrylic side panel. I really do want TG. They make a TG panel version of this case however. Also it doesnt have great routing for RGB strips but I made do.

Maybe Ill do this

Maybe I will buy 2 120mm Noctua fans for the intake, and throw the front 2 on the top as exhausts and get rid of that bad one. So 3 Antec exhausts with 2 Noctua intakes. Even if this drops my internal temp by 3c I would be happy. As of now, at idle internal temp is 28c. Under Prime95, 34c. (Ambient room temp is 21-23c at most times, maybe 23-25c in summer) Maybe this would even drop my cpu temp by 1c? I feel this may be worth while considering my restrictive budget of only 220$. Doing this, if it does work good, could allow me to still at least upgrade my RAM to 3400mhz (do they make 3400mhz kits?) as I feel the 3000mhz may be a factor, a small factor but still something, to get some better peformance out of my CPU.

So, what about these? https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nf-s12b-redux-1200-pwm-case-fan/p/N82E16835608061 found a forum saying these are some of the best fans in 2020 at 120mm.? And I like that theyre not brown which is why I have been reluctant to buy Noctua lol.
 
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Do NOT put a top exhaust fan in the middle or front exhaust fan locations while using an air CPU cooler. You will "steal" ambient airflow from the cooler and reduce performance. Stick to using the rear and the top rear locations. Those are plenty and with two intake fans it gives you a pretty balanced pressure arrangement, which is very much desirable. Negative pressure is somewhat better for cooling performance but since we've already determined that case airflow isn't the source of your cooling issues, we're not too worried in that regard.

If you had a front mounted radiator, then using those other top fan locations would be fine, good even, but not with an air cooler IMO. This has been documented using smoke machines to view the airflow paths, so it's not just an "idea", it's a truth.

If you are going to buy Noctua fans, put them on the CPU cooler. LOL.

Two of these, NF-F12 fans, would be my highly emphatic recommendation, Whether for front intake OR for use on your heatsink. Those are somewhat hard to find at their normal price of around 25 bucks right now though.

That is the other consideration we haven't really discussed is that the fan on your cooler is probably not even remotely comparable to those Noctua fans, or even most of the 120mm Thermalright fans.

Another really good choice, that do seem to be available, and which I have a couple of in my system on my heatsink, are these. They are somewhat louder at full speed, since they run at UP TO 2000rpm, but you don't have to run them at that speed. You will definitely gain some additional cooling performance and static pressure by doing so though, and with sufficient intake and exhaust fan airflow, you could probably drop your maximum CPU temps by maybe 4-8 degrees, especially if you slapped two of them on that heatsink for push pull. Then again, you are then talking another fifty dollar investment. SO again, just idea.

These are terrific fans though. Better than pretty much any other even semi-consumer PC fan on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-iPPC-2000-PWM/dp/B00KFCR5BA


Those S12b fans are good if used for exhaust fans, but they have very low static pressure ratings are not good choices for intake, heatsink or radiator fans.
 
Do NOT put a top exhaust fan in the middle or front exhaust fan locations while using an air CPU cooler. You will "steal" ambient airflow from the cooler and reduce performance. Stick to using the rear and the top rear locations. Those are plenty and with two intake fans it gives you a pretty balanced pressure arrangement, which is very much desirable. Negative pressure is somewhat better for cooling performance but since we've already determined that case airflow isn't the source of your cooling issues, we're not too worried in that regard.

If you had a front mounted radiator, then using those other top fan locations would be fine, good even, but not with an air cooler IMO. This has been documented using smoke machines to view the airflow paths, so it's not just an "idea", it's a truth.

If you are going to buy Noctua fans, put them on the CPU cooler. LOL.

Two of these, NF-F12 fans, would be my highly emphatic recommendation, Whether for front intake OR for use on your heatsink. Those are somewhat hard to find at their normal price of around 25 bucks right now though.

That is the other consideration we haven't really discussed is that the fan on your cooler is probably not even remotely comparable to those Noctua fans, or even most of the 120mm Thermalright fans.

Another really good choice, that do seem to be available, and which I have a couple of in my system on my heatsink, are these. They are somewhat louder at full speed, since they run at UP TO 2000rpm, but you don't have to run them at that speed. You will definitely gain some additional cooling performance and static pressure by doing so though, and with sufficient intake and exhaust fan airflow, you could probably drop your maximum CPU temps by maybe 4-8 degrees, especially if you slapped two of them on that heatsink for push pull. Then again, you are then talking another fifty dollar investment. SO again, just idea.

These are terrific fans though. Better than pretty much any other even semi-consumer PC fan on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-iPPC-2000-PWM/dp/B00KFCR5BA


Those S12b fans are good if used for exhaust fans, but they have very low static pressure ratings are not good choices for intake, heatsink or radiator fans.

Well, at least from this guys tests, slapping a Noctua fan on the Scythes heatsink didnt show any improvements (skip to 2:55)
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIL6WYv7MtQ


Also as of right now I have my main exhaust fan, and the one on top is directly above the heatsink. So dont put one next to it, above the cpu fan ?
 
Eh, that's guy's testing leaves MUCH to be desired. There is also no indications of what kind of fan curve he's using. Whether he is using the low noise adapters or running at full speed AND there is definitely a difference between the standard NF-F12 and the 2000rpm version. But ok, I'm down for whatever. I just believe you'll see a bigger difference there, than from anything you do with the case fans short of installing larger ones that move more air, which obviously you can't do because of the limitations of that case.

Yes, you want to use the rear exhaust fan and the one directly above the CPU cooler. You don't want to use the one in the top front location, that would "steal" the airflow from the front intake fan in the top position. It does no good if the air coming in is doing this.

r8nGeXd.jpg



Instead of this:

ENLMlnY.jpg
 
It's ok. I mean that literally. It's not great. Cooler masters cases tend to feel cheap and flimsy. This one, the H500 Mastercase, isn't really that way, but it has some issues. Those 200mm megaflow fans suck. I have several of them I've pulled from various cases over the years. 140mm fans are much better choices. I'd rather have a case with the option for three 140mm fans in front than two 200mm fans. It's more common and you can put better fans there that move more air, depending on the fans. Noctua recently released a 200mm fan after many years, but there are very, VERY few quality (Or at all) 200mm fans on the market. Noctua pretty much has the only one I'd use at all.

3x140mm is 420mm while 2x200mm is only 400mm. Plus, pretty much every 200mm fan out there including the Noctua models are limited to a very low 600-800rpm which is why the noise levels are able to be as low as they are. They have problems with imbalance when running these much larger fans at higher RPMs. They also have very low static pressure, something like 1.0mm H2O for the Noctua and ONLY .5mm for the CM Megaflow. This really makes them a very poor choice as an intake fan (Or for use on a heatsink or radiator, if there were any that could accept a 200mm fan) unless you have a fan configuration that allows for a highly negative pressure configuration so that there is little to no resistance to the airflow from the intake fans.

For now, 200mm is mostly niche, and gimmicky. There are some situations where it will work, but I don't particularly like it at this time. 140mm fans are much more adaptable to a wider variety of conditions and configurations and more more capable IF the case allows for the right configuration. Having the ability to mount a 140mm fan in EVERY fan location, and having at least two front (Three is better) and both rear and top 140mm locations, is preferable to me. But that's me, not everybody.

Since that case only allows for two 140mm fans in front, in that regard, I don't like it. It's not terrible, but it's cable management leaves something to be desired if you look around at comments regarding this case in the various forum threads you can find, and there are some items in the negative columns for the professional reviews as well. Still, that's just about every case out there.


I don't think you can get a perfect case, as is, without modifications or changes of some kind, for the most part. There are a few that come very close but lack some detail that would put them into the "now this is Juuuuust right" Goldilocks zone.

One very good option is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M. It only takes two front 140mm fans, but if you don't want to have to make modifications then it's a good choice. The Fractal Design Define series, Define S, Define S2, Define R5, Define R6 are good choices as well, but they all require a modified front panel (Which you can generally find pre-modified online or mod yourself) to see their full potential because the stock front panel is not that great. Another option is the meshify models, but I really don't like the look of the weird angled meshify mesh pattern even though I know it's supposedly engineered that way on purpose because of it's effect on sound. Choose good fans and sound becomes a much less important thing.
 
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I don't know man. If it were me, and I was going to buy a new case right now, I'd probably buy the Fractal design Meshify S2 Dark tempered glass and then replace the weird angled front mesh with standard flat mod mesh. I think that is hands down the best overall general purpose case that has all the right features, for the price, around.

But looking around right at this moment, prices are ridiculous. I don't think I'd buy anything right now to be honest. Especially with Amazon not shipping a lot of PC hardware and components. China hasn't been shipping anything to the US for a while. All that's out there right now is mainly 3rd party sellers and the prices are just dumb plus additional dumb shipping. The exception might be if you live near a Microcenter or something similar where you can pick up a good deal. I'm very finicky though when it comes to cases. I want something that either has full mesh airflow front panel already or can be easily modified to have it, has support for a 140mm fan in the rear location and all other locations as well, has a tempered glass side panel, preferably at least lightly tinted, and I really like to see the drive mounting on the back of the motherboard tray or on a bottom mounted bracket assembly. I don't like the big drive bay cages that completely interfere with airflow from the front intakes.
 
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I don't know man. If it were me, and I was going to buy a new case right now, I'd probably buy the Fractal design Meshify S2 Dark tempered glass and then replace the weird angled front mesh with standard flat mod mesh. I think that is hands down the best overall general purpose case that has all the right features, for the price, around.

But looking around right at this moment, prices are ridiculous. I don't think I'd buy anything right now to be honest. Especially with Amazon not shipping a lot of PC hardware and components. China hasn't been shipping anything to the US for a while. All that's out there right now is mainly 3rd party sellers and the prices are just dumb plus additional dumb shipping. The exception might be if you live near a Microcenter or something similar where you can pick up a good deal. I'm very finicky though when it comes to cases. I want something that either has full mesh airflow front panel already or can be easily modified to have it, has support for a 140mm fan in the rear location and all other locations as well, has a tempered glass side panel, preferably at least lightly tinted, and I really like to see the drive mounting on the back of the motherboard tray or on a bottom mounted bracket assembly. I don't like the big drive bay cages that completely interfere with airflow from the front intakes.

Yep. I feel the exact same as you. I feel this whole pandemic has things a bit too finicky to buy ANYTHING at the moment. I mean hell, I spent 61$ for the Scythe cooler just so I could get it before April 24th lol (which I ordered it like what, a week or 2 ago?)

When this does let up, and prices, and Amazon do come back out of the smoke though, would you still recommend I upgrade my cooling, or would a mobo/ram/new 120mm fans upgrade be something worth considering if Im perfectly fine with 58-68c while gaming?

I just have to come to terms no matter what I do for cooling, and what I spend on it, may just not get me what Im expecting. This chip just runs hot, we know that. We know I cant spend another 400$ on a case AND cooling. We know that my ram is below the recommended for my cpu. And we know my case has plenty of airflow, other than fans.

If you were in my shoes, what would you do 1st? Would you do the cooling scenario, or would you do the mobo/ram/Noctua 120mm fans scenario?

If you only had 250$ to spend to upgrade parts for more performance NOW, instead of later, which one would be your choice?

and btw, Im fine with the weird angled mesh. It dont bother me at all, I dont hate it.
 
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Rogue Leader

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Yep. I feel the exact same as you. I feel this whole pandemic has things a bit too finicky to buy ANYTHING at the moment. I mean hell, I spent 61$ for the Scythe cooler just so I could get it before April 24th lol (which I ordered it like what, a week or 2 ago?)

When this does let up, and prices, and Amazon do come back out of the smoke though, would you still recommend I upgrade my cooling, or would a mobo/ram/new 120mm fans upgrade be something worth considering if Im perfectly fine with 58-68c while gaming?

I just have to come to terms no matter what I do for cooling, and what I spend on it, may just not get me what Im expecting. This chip just runs hot, we know that. We know I cant spend another 400$ on a case AND cooling. We know that my ram is below the recommended for my cpu. And we know my case has plenty of airflow, other than fans.

If you were in my shoes, what would you do 1st? Would you do the cooling scenario, or would you do the mobo/ram/Noctua 120mm fans scenario?

If you only had 250$ to spend to upgrade parts for more performance NOW, instead of later, which one would be your choice?

and btw, Im fine with the weird angled mesh. It dont bother me at all, I dont hate it.

You have a really good motherboard, I really don't think its worth replacing. The Tomahawk is the best B450 you can get. Theres nothing wrong with your RAM either.

58-68c while gaming is PERFECTLY NORMAL, not "running hot". This chip does not run hot, I'm not sure where you got the idea that it does, but it only "runs hot" when its not cooled properly. My 3700X runs at 71c all day long while gaming. Totally fine, PBO works great, 0 concerns.

You don't need to throw a ton of money at this. Some new fans in the config described is likely enough. If you want to try a little more, a better case may net you a few c more. What that translates into performance per dollar? Not a huge amount. You will hold PBO higher/longer maybe, but you're manually overclocking so PBO doesn't matter.

I guess my point is you're overthinking this for 200 cinebench points. Something that will translate into about 2 fps in a video game, if that.
 
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You have a really good motherboard, I really don't think its worth replacing. The Tomahawk is the best B450 you can get. Theres nothing wrong with your RAM either.

58-68c while gaming is PERFECTLY NORMAL, not "running hot". This chip does not run hot, I'm not sure where you got the idea that it does, but it only "runs hot" when its not cooled properly. My 3700X runs at 71c all day long while gaming. Totally fine, PBO works great, 0 concerns.

You don't need to throw a ton of money at this. Some new fans in the config described is likely enough. If you want to try a little more, a better case may net you a few c more. What that translates into performance per dollar? Not a huge amount. You will hold PBO higher/longer maybe, but you're manually overclocking so PBO doesn't matter.

I guess my point is you're overthinking this for 200 cinebench points. Something that will translate into about 2 fps in a video game, if that.
Totally agree with this assessment.

Here's the thing. No one thing tends to be the magic bullet. A better case that allows for better, more direct airflow, sometimes nets you a 1 to 2°C drop in temps. Bigger or higher CFM fans, optimally placed, might net you another 2-4°C drop in temps AND possibly a drop in noise levels, which is always desirable. A better cooler, whether air or water, might net you another 2-4°C drop in temps. So total you're looking at MAYBE a drop of ten degrees, being VERY liberal with your optimism, likely more like a total of a five degree drop in temps, but people spend hundreds of dollars trying to drop five to ten degrees with open loop coolers, special thermal pastes and other nonsense (Not that open loop cooling is nonsense) so if you can do that while lowering noise levels, getting a case that allows for a better configuration and having overall higher quality hardware that will last much longer, for a reasonable price, then for some it is worth it.

For others, not so much, as they will be happy with what you already have. Me, I'm always looking for improvements. But at some point I have to say this is good enough sometimes too.
 
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Totally agree with this assessment.

Here's the thing. No one thing tends to be the magic bullet. A better case that allows for better, more direct airflow, sometimes nets you a 1 to 2°C drop in temps. Bigger or higher CFM fans, optimally placed, might net you another 2-4°C drop in temps AND possibly a drop in noise levels, which is always desirable. A better cooler, whether air or water, might net you another 2-4°C drop in temps. So total you're looking at MAYBE a drop of ten degrees, being VERY liberal with your optimism, likely more like a total of a five degree drop in temps, but people spend hundreds of dollars trying to drop five to ten degrees with open loop coolers, special thermal pastes and other nonsense (Not that open loop cooling is nonsense) so if you can do that while lowering noise levels, getting a case that allows for a better configuration and having overall higher quality hardware that will last much longer, for a reasonable price, then for some it is worth it.

For others, not so much, as they will be happy with what you already have. Me, I'm always looking for improvements. But at some point I have to say this is good enough sometimes too.

Okay so Ive sat on this for awhile and Ive made the choice to not make any upgrades right now and am considering buying a new computer chair because mine is pure trash (Homall Racer White) it was 100$ when I bought it and its VERY uncomfortable. Im 6'4 about 290lbs.

Would it be better to buy a "non gaming" chair? If so, which one? Was looking at Secret Labs but I cant afford 400-600$ for a chair for my height/weight lol.
 
Chair is good. All the best hardware in the world ain't worth beans if you can't stand sitting in it because the chair sucks and is causing you grief. I understand that fully. Am almost in the market for a new chair myself. I've had my current one for about 7 years so it's about had it too.

You are right. Those Homall seats suck. I've sat in them. They look nice, but so does most Ebay and Flea market knockoff type crap.
 
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Chair is good. All the best hardware in the world ain't worth beans if you can't stand sitting in it because the chair sucks and is causing you grief. I understand that fully. Am almost in the market for a new chair myself. I've had my current one for about 7 years so it's about had it too.

You are right. Those Homall seats suck. I've sat in them. They look nice, but so does most Ebay and Flea market knockoff type crap.

Would I be better off getting a NON GAMING chair, just a normal office chair? So It doesnt have the inflated price for the "gaming" brand? Was looking at Secret Labs but I cant afford 400-600$ for a chair for my height/weight lol.

Buying it offline is hard because I cant test it before hand lol.
 
I don't buy "gaming" chairs. Seems ridiculous to me unless there is a specific feature on one of them that you need OR if you are simply determined that your battlestation MUST look a certain way and are more worried about aesthetics than comfort.

I buy chairs that are comfortable and I usually do that by going to sit in them locally. Obviously that probably isn't possible for most people right now so you may have to just go by popular online opinion.
 
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I don't buy "gaming" chairs. Seems ridiculous to me unless there is a specific feature on one of them that you need OR if you are simply determined that your battlestation MUST look a certain way and are more worried about aesthetics than comfort.

I buy chairs that are comfortable and I usually do that by going to sit in them locally. Obviously that probably isn't possible for most people right now so you may have to just go by popular online opinion.

I mean I like how they LOOK over a normal office chair but what I have found is that theyre a lot more expensive when you get down to comfort/size limitations. Like I love how this Homall chair LOOKS but anything thats comfortable, with this LOOK, is very expensive. Maybe Ill just wait for my local office max to open and then go test some chairs.