Question RAM Upgrade Help

Aegis91

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My current PC build is this: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/QXR2fv and I was interested in optimizing my RAM speed.

It's an older build, but I was curious if my BIOS was set up correctly (I think this was the default):
View: https://imgur.com/a/MRQHLEQ


After doing preliminary research, I have read that anything over 2800mHz for 1.2v was bad.

I ran the memtest86 and received no errors. However, admittedly, I don't know how RAM overclock works. Do I simply enable XMP 2.0 profile 1, put the RAM voltage to 3000, incrementally increase the voltage, run memtest86 (get no errors hopefully), try a game (get no errors hopefully) ?
 
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If you are not trying to manually overclock the memory, you shouldn't need to do anything other than enable XMP unless you encounter problems.

The first thing to do is make SURE you have the latest motherboard BIOS version installed. This is even more critical than on most platforms in your case because 1st and 2nd generation Ryzen platforms had a LOT of memory compatibility and configuration problems.

What is the current motherboard BIOS version?

You may not be able to run it at 3000mhz which is the XMP speed, because 2nd gen Ryzen doesn't really like that speed. For the most part it was difficult to get those systems to run at higher than 2933mhz without running memory that used Samsung B-die equipped memory modules, and for most people who could they had to jump up to 3200mhz. I've seen a few able to run at 3000mhz but not many, especially not until late in the generations cycle when newer BIOS versions improved compatibility somewhat.

For anything higher than 2666 mhz on DDR4 I'd recommend running the memory at 1.35v UNLESS the advertised XMP speed shows higher than that WITH a lower voltage. For most DDR4 kits it will be 1.35v if it is over 2666 mhz. But, you should find what the advertised voltage is for the XMP profile of the specific kit you are working with and use that as your baseline if you are configured at or near the XMP profile speed. For speeds lower than 2933mhz you are USUALLY pretty safe with 1.2v unless the kit's specifications say differently.
 
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Aegis91

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If you are not trying to manually overclock the memory, you shouldn't need to do anything other than enable XMP unless you encounter problems.

The first thing to do is make SURE you have the latest motherboard BIOS version installed. This is even more critical than on most platforms in your case because 1st and 2nd generation Ryzen platforms had a LOT of memory compatibility and configuration problems.

What is the current motherboard BIOS version?

You may not be able to run it at 3000mhz which is the XMP speed, because 2nd gen Ryzen doesn't really like that speed. For the most part it was difficult to get those systems to run at higher than 2933mhz without running memory that used Samsung B-die equipped memory modules, and for most people who could they had to jump up to 3200mhz. I've seen a few able to run at 3000mhz but not many, especially not until late in the generations cycle when newer BIOS versions improved compatibility somewhat.

For anything higher than 2666 mhz on DDR4 I'd recommend running the memory at 1.35v UNLESS the advertised XMP speed shows higher than that WITH a lower voltage. For most DDR4 kits it will be 1.35v if it is over 2666 mhz. But, you should find what the advertised voltage is for the XMP profile of the specific kit you are working with and use that as your baseline if you are configured at or near the XMP profile speed. For speeds lower than 2933mhz you are USUALLY pretty safe with 1.2v unless the kit's specifications say differently.

Thanks for the advice.

I am probably going to upgrade my CPU to a Ryzen 5 5600. But even then, my RAM is running at 2933mhz. So going up to the max of my RAM (3000mhz) is probably not worth it.

Bios version is american megatrends bios inc. P2.20, 3/4/2019.

From your post, are my settings OK? I believe this was the default (is there a way to reset the bios to default settings to make sure this is the default?) Again, after running memtest86, I got no errors.

Edit: looking at my CPU (Ryzen 5 2600), it says it can handle to up 2933mhz as the max memory (I assume this is before overclocking). So I imagine this is the default settings.
 
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There are 13 newer BIOS versions than what you have installed, available for your motherboard. You do not need to incrementally install each of them, but there are a few steps/hoops you need to jump through on the way to the latest release.

First, you need to make sure you have AMD all in 1 with VGA driver ver:18.50.16.01_WHQL or newer installed first. So, I'd just go to the AMD website and make sure you have the latest AMD all in 1 driver installed which should include both the latest chipset and graphics driver for your AMD motherboard and graphics card.

Then, update to version 3.1 here: https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M-HDV R4.0/index.asp#BIOS


Do NOT update to a version newer than 3.1 while you are using that Pinnacle ridge CPU. IF and WHEN you update to the newer Ryzen 5 5600 you will need to THEN at that time update to version 7.4 but be aware that when you do you will need to update to that version and then immediately afterwards shut down and install your new CPU because otherwise you are going to get nothing since your Pinnacle ridge CPU will no longer be supported. There is no BIOS version for that motherboard that supports both the Ryzen 5600 and your Ryzen 2600. It is one or the other.

So for now though, I would recommend you do as I listed above, to update to 3.1. Then, when you have updated, go back into the BIOS, switch to Advanced Mode, enable XMP, reconfigure any other custom settings you need to like fan profile presets or custom curves etc., then save settings on the exit tab and exit the BIOS. Upon restart go back into the BIOS and verify that XMP is enabled.

If in the end you are unable to enable XMP, then at the very least if it is running at 2933mhz I would manually set the DRAM voltage to 1.35v, save settings and exit BIOS.

As far as what the "CPU can handle", generally that is not the qualifying factor. It is usually the motherboard that defines what speed the memory can run at HOWEVER, on some platforms even a given motherboard may only support certain memory speeds based on which CPU is installed but it will be the motherboard's product specifications that will tell you that, not the CPUs.

If you update to a newer BIOS version it will automatically reset your settings in most cases, but it can't hurt to load the default or optimal default settings on the Exit tab in the BIOS to be sure you are starting from scratch after you update. Then restart, then go back in and enable XMP and custom settings, then restart and go back in and verify it is showing XMP enabled. Then double check in Windows using HWinfo or CPU-Z.
 

Aegis91

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There are 13 newer BIOS versions than what you have installed, available for your motherboard. You do not need to incrementally install each of them, but there are a few steps/hoops you need to jump through on the way to the latest release.

First, you need to make sure you have AMD all in 1 with VGA driver ver:18.50.16.01_WHQL or newer installed first. So, I'd just go to the AMD website and make sure you have the latest AMD all in 1 driver installed which should include both the latest chipset and graphics driver for your AMD motherboard and graphics card.

Then, update to version 3.1 here: https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M-HDV R4.0/index.asp#BIOS


Do NOT update to a version newer than 3.1 while you are using that Pinnacle ridge CPU. IF and WHEN you update to the newer Ryzen 5 5600 you will need to THEN at that time update to version 7.4 but be aware that when you do you will need to update to that version and then immediately afterwards shut down and install your new CPU because otherwise you are going to get nothing since your Pinnacle ridge CPU will no longer be supported. There is no BIOS version for that motherboard that supports both the Ryzen 5600 and your Ryzen 2600. It is one or the other.

So for now though, I would recommend you do as I listed above, to update to 3.1. Then, when you have updated, go back into the BIOS, switch to Advanced Mode, enable XMP, reconfigure any other custom settings you need to like fan profile presets or custom curves etc., then save settings on the exit tab and exit the BIOS. Upon restart go back into the BIOS and verify that XMP is enabled.

If in the end you are unable to enable XMP, then at the very least if it is running at 2933mhz I would manually set the DRAM voltage to 1.35v, save settings and exit BIOS.

As far as what the "CPU can handle", generally that is not the qualifying factor. It is usually the motherboard that defines what speed the memory can run at HOWEVER, on some platforms even a given motherboard may only support certain memory speeds based on which CPU is installed but it will be the motherboard's product specifications that will tell you that, not the CPUs.

If you update to a newer BIOS version it will automatically reset your settings in most cases, but it can't hurt to load the default or optimal default settings on the Exit tab in the BIOS to be sure you are starting from scratch after you update. Then restart, then go back in and enable XMP and custom settings, then restart and go back in and verify it is showing XMP enabled. Then double check in Windows using HWinfo or CPU-Z.

Thanks for the detailed reply. Sorry, I am bit of a noob...

I updated to this "AMD Adrenalin Edition 22.5.1" yesterday, which I think updated the graphics software. When I try to install the WQHL driver, the 22.5.1 shows up as installed already. Is this the same (or contains) this "VGA driver ver:18.50.16.01_WHQL"?

I might hold off on updating to 3.1 just because I am probably going to get the new CPU soon (within two weeks). Looking at the site, to update to BIOS 7.4 doesn't need this WHQL driver.

I was able to reset my bios to default settings. It defaulted to this:

View: https://imgur.com/a/2nJyn3r


Seems only 1 stick of RAM is being ulitized. I guess I must've hit something when I first built it a few years ago (to the 2933mhz at 1.2v, without enabling the XMP profile). Is there a risk to increasing the DRAM frequency without enabling the XMP profile and without increasing the voltage? It seemed to have been OK given the amount of years it has been, but I hope I didn't mess up my mobo.

Lastly, how do I use CPU-Z? Just to see if it is detecting the RAM?
 
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If you are not willing to go through an extensive stability testing process then you do not want to manually configure the DRAM frequency, and should (Should anyhow unless you are interested in pursuing memory overclocking as a hobby or enthusiast endeavor) simply use XMP.

Just change the load XMP setting from Auto to Enabled, then save settings, exit bios, restart and back into BIOS to verify.

Regarding the BIOS update, version 7.4 might not specify the need for the WHQL driver BUT required versions that you must update to before updating to that version DO, but since you already have a newer version, or should, then you should be fine. To be sure, I'd simply install the latest graphics driver and the latest chipset driver from the AMD website, for your specific hardware. Then forget about it until you get the newer processor BUT as I said, do NOT update to any version newer than 3.1 until you do. If you are able to enable XMP and it works without issue, then you don't necessarily NEED to update to 3.1 at this time since you will be upgrading the CPU soon.

And if you don't update the BIOS before you get the new CPU, then simply update straight to 7.4, no other versions necessary in between.

For CPU-Z, just install it, run it, then click on the memory tab and take a screenshot. Click on the SPD tab, then click on the slots on the left where memory is installed so that it populates the fields to the right of that drop down menu and for each slot take a screenshot. Then post the screenshots here to look at.
 

Aegis91

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If you are not willing to go through an extensive stability testing process then you do not want to manually configure the DRAM frequency, and should (Should anyhow unless you are interested in pursuing memory overclocking as a hobby or enthusiast endeavor) simply use XMP.

Just change the load XMP setting from Auto to Enabled, then save settings, exit bios, restart and back into BIOS to verify.

Regarding the BIOS update, version 7.4 might not specify the need for the WHQL driver BUT required versions that you must update to before updating to that version DO, but since you already have a newer version, or should, then you should be fine. To be sure, I'd simply install the latest graphics driver and the latest chipset driver from the AMD website, for your specific hardware. Then forget about it until you get the newer processor BUT as I said, do NOT update to any version newer than 3.1 until you do. If you are able to enable XMP and it works without issue, then you don't necessarily NEED to update to 3.1 at this time since you will be upgrading the CPU soon.

And if you don't update the BIOS before you get the new CPU, then simply update straight to 7.4, no other versions necessary in between.

For CPU-Z, just install it, run it, then click on the memory tab and take a screenshot. Click on the SPD tab, then click on the slots on the left where memory is installed so that it populates the fields to the right of that drop down menu and for each slot take a screenshot. Then post the screenshots here to look at.

I decided to upgrade the BIOS to 3.10. I just enabled the xmp profile and that was it. Here are the screens:

View: https://imgur.com/a/g1d7vT9
 
Perfect. Should be good now. It's at the right speed, in dual channel as well.

I'd download and install HWinfo, which is a good idea anyhow for monitoring EVERYTHING that might need to be monitored at some point including CPU, motherboard, PSU, graphics card, memory, storage devices, then run it and select "sensors only" and uncheck "summary" then scroll down to the memory sensors and verify that it's actually running at 1.35v as well. Post a screenshot of the memory sensor values here and then you should be good. I mean, probably already are and you can verify in the BIOS as well that it's at 2933mhz and 1.35v as well but sometimes things might change between BIOS and Windows if any problems are encountered.
 
So long as you enabled XMP and all the settings were automatically changed, specifically the timings that are manufacturer tested for those DIMMs, then there no reason to need to test anything unless you have problems. Only when you manually configure the memory speed or voltage do you need to test, but IF you wish to test the memory configuration, which is never a terrible idea with a new configuration, you can do so as follows. Be aware that it is going to take a Looooong time to run though, so plan to not use the system like, overnight, or while you are gone for a few hours. And if you can't be bothered to run through the FULL four passes it will run automatically, then don't even bother to run it because it's pointless if you don't run through all four passes. Often memory errors or problems won't show up until the memory is nice and warm from running the tests and getting hammered for a while.

Memtest86


Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.


Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.



No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.
 

Aegis91

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So long as you enabled XMP and all the settings were automatically changed, specifically the timings that are manufacturer tested for those DIMMs, then there no reason to need to test anything unless you have problems. Only when you manually configure the memory speed or voltage do you need to test, but IF you wish to test the memory configuration, which is never a terrible idea with a new configuration, you can do so as follows. Be aware that it is going to take a Looooong time to run though, so plan to not use the system like, overnight, or while you are gone for a few hours. And if you can't be bothered to run through the FULL four passes it will run automatically, then don't even bother to run it because it's pointless if you don't run through all four passes. Often memory errors or problems won't show up until the memory is nice and warm from running the tests and getting hammered for a while.

Memtest86


Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.


Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.



No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

Thanks for the details!

Other than the settings for the DRAM and voltage, I didn't check to see if the detailed settings changed from enabling the XMP profile. I assume they did.

In terms of the latest screenshots, did everything look ok from HWinfo?
P.s. When I enabled XMP, it went to the max that my RAM has (3000mhz, not 2933mhz).
 

Aegis91

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Yep, you're right, it's running at 3000mhz, so that's great. Yes, everything looks fine and I'm sure it's running at 1.35v if it's running at 3000mhz. So it looks like you're all set.

Hi again,

I upgraded my build -- mainly CPU from Ryzen 5 2600 to Ryzen 5 5600, RX 570 to RX 6700X and Corsair CX550 (2017) to RM850X (2021), installed an after market cooler (Peerless Asssassin 120 SE), different case. I flashed the BIOS to 4.90 before installing the new CPU. I also enabled the XMP profile above for the RAM which brings it to the same settings as above.

Everything was going fine (made the upgrades two days ago). Gaming was ok, although I didn't play that much. Maybe 30-45 minutes.
Today, it randomly shutdown while gaming (I had a spreadsheet open and Firefox tab open as well). Note: I only have played Guild Wars 2. Temperatures for the CPU are~40 and GPU is ~49-60.

I reverted the RAM back to the default settings, and everything was OK. I tested the exact same conditions with the stuff open and game and XMP settings. Every time XMP settings would force a shutdown, while default values of 2400 would be fine.

So with the default RAM frequencies, I tried running memtest86 just to be safe. Computer shuts off within 5 minutes.

I don't understand how everything was fine for the old components (both default and XMP frequencies), but now for the new components I am getting these issues, especially with the default RAM frequencies. Any advice?

EDIT: Tried running prime95 (Blend) and computer shuts down during the first test and CPU temps only go up to 46-47. Then again, it says that the RAM is tested a lot, so probably doesn't help us much.

Thanks!
 
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After flashing the new BIOS, did you THEN do a hard reset? Also, did you get this CPU and graphics card new or used? Have you tried pulling the CPU to make sure no pins were bent during installation?

Are you 300% certain that the CPU cooler is installed correctly AND tightened completely evenly ALL THE WAY AROUND? Because memory errors after installing a new CPU and cooler are OFTEN a result of an unevenly tightened CPU cooler putting more pressure on one part of the CPU socket than the rest of it which can cock it in the socket and make it ACT like there are bent pins. And a bent pin or two can absolutely still allow the system to run but express itself with memory problems.

Also, I think you better take another look at your BIOS because there is NO BIOS VERSION 4.9 available for that motherboard, the B450m-HDV, if that is still the same board you have. So if you flashed a 4.9 BIOS version then you flashed a BIOS for some other board, not this one. The latest BIOS version for this board is 4.7. I'd take another look at that, make sure you download the CORRECT BIOS version, and perhaps even take the time to reflash the correct version just in case.

First, I'd try the hard reset though unless you know you might have flashed a BIOS that wasn't meant for this board.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.



As far as Prime95 is concerned, there's not a lot of point, for troubleshooting, to be running that. Blend mode doesn't tell you much and really Prime should just be used to verify basic thermal compliance when overclocking or as a second opinion method for additional stability testing after standard recommended tests have been completed and for the most part you should mostly only ever be using Small FFT testing with AVX disabled when you test thermal compliance. Running four full passes of Memtest86 should be all that's required to assure there are no physical or configuration problems with the memory for the MOST part. It's still not a 100% guarantee because I've seen plenty of systems that could pass it and still ended up having memory issues in the end that were resolved with different memory, but it's uncommon. If it won't even run it for five minutes, something is definitely wrong. Try reseating the memory too.
 

Aegis91

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After flashing the new BIOS, did you THEN do a hard reset?
I did not no a hard reset.
Also, did you get this CPU and graphics card new or used? Have you tried pulling the CPU to make sure no pins were bent during installation?
Yes, I got both the CPU and GPU new. I didn't flash upgrade the BIOS before installing the CPU, so I had to do it twice. No pins were bent.

Are you 300% certain that the CPU cooler is installed correctly AND tightened completely evenly ALL THE WAY AROUND? Because memory errors after installing a new CPU and cooler are OFTEN a result of an unevenly tightened CPU cooler putting more pressure on one part of the CPU socket than the rest of it which can cock it in the socket and make it ACT like there are bent pins. And a bent pin or two can absolutely still allow the system to run but express itself with memory problems.
Yes. I tightened the cooler around by tightening each screw slowly at a time (not tightening one screw all the way first and then the next one). The screws have locks on it so you can only tighted it so far before it won't allow you to go further.

Also, I think you better take another look at your BIOS because there is NO BIOS VERSION 4.9 available for that motherboard, the B450m-HDV, if that is still the same board you have. So if you flashed a 4.9 BIOS version then you flashed a BIOS for some other board, not this one. The latest BIOS version for this board is 4.7. I'd take another look at that, make sure you download the CORRECT BIOS version, and perhaps even take the time to reflash the correct version just in case.
There is version 4.9 for this board. It is the version PC part pick suggests I install.

First, I'd try the hard reset though unless you know you might have flashed a BIOS that wasn't meant for this board.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.



As far as Prime95 is concerned, there's not a lot of point, for troubleshooting, to be running that. Blend mode doesn't tell you much and really Prime should just be used to verify basic thermal compliance when overclocking or as a second opinion method for additional stability testing after standard recommended tests have been completed and for the most part you should mostly only ever be using Small FFT testing with AVX disabled when you test thermal compliance. Running four full passes of Memtest86 should be all that's required to assure there are no physical or configuration problems with the memory for the MOST part. It's still not a 100% guarantee because I've seen plenty of systems that could pass it and still ended up having memory issues in the end that were resolved with different memory, but it's uncommon. If it won't even run it for five minutes, something is definitely wrong. Try reseating the memory too.

I responded to your points above.

I will try resetting the CMOS and then running Memtest86. If that doesn't work, I'll try resetting the RAM.

My girlfriend also built her PC. Would it be worth trying her RAM as it is also compatible with mine?

Related question - Does using the QVL RAM for my motherboard guarantee it will work at the overclock listed speed? Perhaps going forward, it would make sense to purchase that RAM.
 
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Aegis91

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After flashing the new BIOS, did you THEN do a hard reset? Also, did you get this CPU and graphics card new or used? Have you tried pulling the CPU to make sure no pins were bent during installation?

Are you 300% certain that the CPU cooler is installed correctly AND tightened completely evenly ALL THE WAY AROUND? Because memory errors after installing a new CPU and cooler are OFTEN a result of an unevenly tightened CPU cooler putting more pressure on one part of the CPU socket than the rest of it which can cock it in the socket and make it ACT like there are bent pins. And a bent pin or two can absolutely still allow the system to run but express itself with memory problems.

Also, I think you better take another look at your BIOS because there is NO BIOS VERSION 4.9 available for that motherboard, the B450m-HDV, if that is still the same board you have. So if you flashed a 4.9 BIOS version then you flashed a BIOS for some other board, not this one. The latest BIOS version for this board is 4.7. I'd take another look at that, make sure you download the CORRECT BIOS version, and perhaps even take the time to reflash the correct version just in case.

First, I'd try the hard reset though unless you know you might have flashed a BIOS that wasn't meant for this board.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.



As far as Prime95 is concerned, there's not a lot of point, for troubleshooting, to be running that. Blend mode doesn't tell you much and really Prime should just be used to verify basic thermal compliance when overclocking or as a second opinion method for additional stability testing after standard recommended tests have been completed and for the most part you should mostly only ever be using Small FFT testing with AVX disabled when you test thermal compliance. Running four full passes of Memtest86 should be all that's required to assure there are no physical or configuration problems with the memory for the MOST part. It's still not a 100% guarantee because I've seen plenty of systems that could pass it and still ended up having memory issues in the end that were resolved with different memory, but it's uncommon. If it won't even run it for five minutes, something is definitely wrong. Try reseating the memory too.

I tried resetting the CMOS as prescribed above and tried resetting the RAM, and memtest86 still shuts down mid test 1 (on the default RAM frequencies).
 

Aegis91

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So I tried it with my girlfriend's RAM. Last I checked was that it made it to step 2/4 ~50% (as opposed to just shutting off two minutes in for my RAM) and then it shut off it looks like when I just came back to check.

So if it's not the RAM, the only components that changed were the CPU, cooler, and PSU. The RAM passed on the old build just fine. Unless maybe the mobo just sucks and is now showing its wear?
 

Aegis91

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I'm currently testing my girlfriend's ram one stick at a time in my build. Currently 75% on test 3.

Assuming they both pass in slot 1, does this mean it's RAM slot 2 that is the issue (therefore the mobo)?
 
I am going to make an assumption based on MY experience, and bear with me if I miss something.

First of all, DO NOT test all your memory at once. Yes, it takes FAR longer to test it all individually, BUT, it is WAY more likely to eliminate a bad DIMM than testing the whole kit together regardless of whether that kit is two or four sticks. Assuming consumer platforms of course.

ALL motherboards, mostly without exception, designate the A2 slot as the primary slot for single DIMM population on ALL motherboards over the last ten to fifteen years. There are some more recent ASUS boards that have gone the idiot route and changed the termination or at least the designation to say that the B2 is the single DIMM slot, and have reversed the locations of the A2 and B2. This is not "ASUS being smart". This is "ASUS being stupid facks" and trying to avoid being compliant with all JEDEC specs including the Intel held XMP rights. So, whatever. Whatever, for most people it will be A2, even for most years of ASUS boards regardless of chipset. But always double check your manual for your specific board, just because of ASUS recent BS.

So, test EACH DIMM in the "primary slot", whether that is A2 or B2 based on the user manual, and it WILL be one of them, and it WILL be either the second or fourth slot over from the CPU socket (For four DIMM slot boards). And if ANY stick does not pass "muster" in the primary slot when it is the only DIMM installed, then test another in the same slot. If you get the same result, then there is a good chance it's not the memory.

Then you check all the common things like "cocked CPU cooler installation due to unevenly tight", bent pins, bad memory, whatever. If you get the same result, in the primary slot, with MULTIPLE different memory modules, then it is VERY likely that you have a motherboard problem. Less likely, but these days it seems it is a LOT more likely than it used to be in the past, especially in this age of "I bought a CPU and fracked it up then returned it and how, ha ha ha, you are buying it because they send the broke crap right back out to the next guy", it is not unusual to maybe get a bad CPU. People fack them them and then send them back and they just send them right back out. No way to know. They are very good about making it look like the package has never been opened. Ten cents worth of shrink plastic and "never opened".

And if you think Newegg and Amazon DON'T do that, well, eh, ........................

That doesn't mean it can't be memory. Same crap with memory and, probably MORE likely to get a bad stick from the factory than a bad CPU,


IF all things were equal. Which they are not. But still, we see it. It happens. Do not rule it out as a possibility until you have ruled it out as a possibility AND just because a kit works with a different system does NOT mean it does not have problems with a given platform It has become HIGHLY platform specific these days, even for broadly compatible kits.
 

Aegis91

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I am going to make an assumption based on MY experience, and bear with me if I miss something.

First of all, DO NOT test all your memory at once. Yes, it takes FAR longer to test it all individually, BUT, it is WAY more likely to eliminate a bad DIMM than testing the whole kit together regardless of whether that kit is two or four sticks. Assuming consumer platforms of course.

ALL motherboards, mostly without exception, designate the A2 slot as the primary slot for single DIMM population on ALL motherboards over the last ten to fifteen years. There are some more recent ASUS boards that have gone the idiot route and changed the termination or at least the designation to say that the B2 is the single DIMM slot, and have reversed the locations of the A2 and B2. This is not "ASUS being smart". This is "ASUS being stupid facks" and trying to avoid being compliant with all JEDEC specs including the Intel held XMP rights. So, whatever. Whatever, for most people it will be A2, even for most years of ASUS boards regardless of chipset. But always double check your manual for your specific board, just because of ASUS recent BS.

So, test EACH DIMM in the "primary slot", whether that is A2 or B2 based on the user manual, and it WILL be one of them, and it WILL be either the second or fourth slot over from the CPU socket (For four DIMM slot boards). And if ANY stick does not pass "muster" in the primary slot when it is the only DIMM installed, then test another in the same slot. If you get the same result, then there is a good chance it's not the memory.

Then you check all the common things like "cocked CPU cooler installation due to unevenly tight", bent pins, bad memory, whatever. If you get the same result, in the primary slot, with MULTIPLE different memory modules, then it is VERY likely that you have a motherboard problem. Less likely, but these days it seems it is a LOT more likely than it used to be in the past, especially in this age of "I bought a CPU and fracked it up then returned it and how, ha ha ha, you are buying it because they send the broke crap right back out to the next guy", it is not unusual to maybe get a bad CPU. People fack them them and then send them back and they just send them right back out. No way to know. They are very good about making it look like the package has never been opened. Ten cents worth of shrink plastic and "never opened".

And if you think Newegg and Amazon DON'T do that, well, eh, ........................

That doesn't mean it can't be memory. Same crap with memory and, probably MORE likely to get a bad stick from the factory than a bad CPU,


IF all things were equal. Which they are not. But still, we see it. It happens. Do not rule it out as a possibility until you have ruled it out as a possibility AND just because a kit works with a different system does NOT mean it does not have problems with a given platform It has become HIGHLY platform specific these days, even for broadly compatible kits.

I appreciate your take (and humour haha). Yeah, tech companies are shady.

I have two DIMM slots - A1 and B1. It doesn't specify which one to use if I have 1 stick (or I probably don't understand the diagrams), so I assumed it would be the first one (the one closest to the CPU - A1). I tried the first stick of girlfriend RAM, and it passed. Going to try a stick of my RAM in the same slot.

With memtest86, do we normally just test the primary DIMM?
 
Actually, it does. It specifically states A1. Which, is standard. So no surprises there.

And actually, A1 is NOT always the closest to the CPU. Usually it is the SECOND slot over from the CPU, for motherboards with four DIMM slots. For boards with only two, it is USUALLY the one closest.

But, HONESTLY, it is RARE that regardless of which DIMM slot you use, if there is not SOME OTHER problems, it won't AT LEAST POST. Might POST and then error or reset, but will usually at least POST and get you into the BIOS. If you can't even get into the BIOS, or, can't do a basic Memtest, there is seriously fundamental problem. Yes, it COULD absolutely still be a board problem.

You had problems before. The fact that you were able to accommodate those problems OR cover them up, by making adjustments, does not mean that it is IMPOSSIBLE that it is simply a board problem AND the fact that you AGAIN have a memory related problem when you have a totally different CPU and other hardware, makes it seem a lot more probable.

If if were ME, I'd contact the manufacturer, express my problems to them, SHOW them this thread, and further express that it has been a problem since day one and you would simply like to stop playing games with " maybe it's the board" because all indications are that there is a real possibility that it MIGHT be the board, and that at this point the only way to know that is with a different board. And, that there is ZERO reason YOU should have to be the one to foot the bill to prove that.

BUT, on the other hand, you can STILL do that, BUT also GET a different board, maybe invest in a higher quality model, and SEE if that resolves the problem. IF it does, proves the point. If it is inconclusive or IF it is NOT the result, well, let me tell you, you bought into this platform already and believe me when I say that unless you fully feel like you will be ok with paying WAY more than a replacement motherboard for the platform you are already on is going to be worth it to you down the road WHEN this one fails, it's not the worst idea in the world to obtain a backup board while the price is not ridiculously, stupidly expensive. Because, like two years after your platform is released, it WILL become that way. Boards do NOT get cheaper as time goes on. They get either MORE expensive, or you accept well used, probably not trustworthy replacements. Period.

I have bought replacement boards to set aside for every platform since AM3+, and I do not regret it in the least. Even the extra Sabertooth board I bought for my 8320 is not a waste regardless that I am not using that platform anymore. You understand why right? Because nomatter what, I HAVE that. And if tomorrow the world goes to crap, I have that. I don't need to get scrotted in order to find a board for that CPU to work. Same, for every platform. BUT, that is a luxury not everybody cares about. I however do. If I spend a lot of money on a platform, I want to be able to use it for A LONG TIME, even if I upgrade and leave it behind. For my garage system, for example. Or whatever.
 

Aegis91

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Very good points. Unfortunately, this mobo was a budget build from 4 years ago. I did pass memtest with both sticks of RAM on my old cpu though. But regardless, I do believe this board is the bottom of the barrel.

I'm testing A1 with my RAM. So far on pass 2/4. I will then test B1 with both sets of RAM. (Unless you don't think it's worth the effort).

If everything passes (both RAM kits failed when both DIMM slots contained RAM, so I'd be surprised), I'll reset the CPU and heatsink.

If still getting errors, I'll replace the motherboard lol. At this point, I can use an upgrade in that area, and AMD5 is still too expensive for my purposes.
 
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Aegis91

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So I did more testing.

  1. All my RAM passed in slot A1. I tested only one stick of RAM in slot B1 and it passed. This RAM was always in slot B1 where both sticks of RAM were in and the computer would shutdown during memtest86. Since this is one passed, I don't feel the need to test the other one that passed in A1.
These next tests have both my RAM in the PC and tries running memtest86.
  1. Tried a different PSU (didn't swap the cables though). Shutdown.
  2. Swapped GPUs (new for old GPU). Shutdown.
  3. Tried putting in my old CPU and new heatsink. Passed all four tests.
  4. Tried putting new cpu + new heatsink. Shutdown.
So I am guessing it's the new CPU. No pins are bent.