Question Random power cycling ?

[Samuel hut]

Hey, so my PC has been randomly power cycling since the past two months.
I have replaced everything including the PSU, RAM, MOBO, SSD.

PC specs:
i7-8700
Mobo : Gigabyte B365 DS3h
Gskill Ripjaws 3600mhz DDR4 X1
WD black 512 M.2
Seagate 256 SSD
PSU: Coolermaster GX 750 cmstorm 80 plus bronze

I still encountered the same issue. The only thing left to replace is the processor itself. Before I do so, could it be causing the power cycling as everyone I asked say it's rare and moreover, I have no more money left to shell for a new processor.

Requesting answers as I'm exhausted trying to resolve this issue since the past 2 months and want to get it solved asap.
TIA

 

[Samuel hut]

He has offered a 500w PSU, with a '2v' output but that hasn't solved the problem as it turned off in his presence but he insists that my old PSU has to be replaced as it is also a part of the problem. But I'm skeptical if he's just trying to fool me.

Another possible reason was that I had taken the front panel of the cabinet off just to know how to disassemble and shortly after I started having these issues. So I told him to check that out. He has been bypassing the power button and directly turning on the pc by shorting the pins on the Mobo.

Is there any way to know if the cabinet is causing the bootloops?
Because the computer doesn't just shut down, it automatically powers on after it randomly shuts down.
Based on the above fact, could the cabinet wiring be causing the power cycling?
A video of the cpu
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11hG36vwE2bEpOIVd76vrBO8hNXXGTsTD/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[Samuel hut]

So when he bypasses the power button the computer does not power cycle?

I would not go "backwards" with respect to installing a 550 Watt PSU. Stay with a known, reputable 750 Watt PSU.

It is reasonable to install another known working PSU for testing purposes. Since his PSU failed to resolve the problem then I would question the need to replace your PSU.

There could be a problem with the cabinet switch or one of the connections involved.

Also: motherboard.

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...ds3h_e.pdf?v=0e0359fbe5ac0d70c6aa180db9639b37

[Do verify that I found the correct User Manual.]

Check the status of all LEDs: With power off and power on. Watch while power cycling.

Double check all mother board connections and configuration settings. Ensure that none of the connectors are damaged in some manner: no bare conductor showing, no melted insulation, no cracks in plastic, no kinks or pinches.

Ensure that all connectors are correctly installed. Starting with F_Panel per Physically numbered Page 16.

Also look at the User documentation for the case/cabinet. Double check everything there as well.

My thought is that something is not correctly or fully in place. Very likely may have happened when the front cover was removed.

Take a very careful, methodical look at it all.

And start thinking about finding another repair shop if the current tech is not being forth coming.

Thank you, will check it out.
Here is a video of the cpu power cycling:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11hG36vwE2bEpOIVd76vrBO8hNXXGTsTD/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[Ralston18]

Interesting.

Wondering about the air flows in the case.

Which direction(s) are the fans moving air?

At some point the air flow may becomes strong enough to move a connection/component/wire causing a disconnect. Then when the fan (or fans) stop the connection re-establishes itself and the system restarts.

 

[Samuel hut]

Interesting.

Wondering about the air flows in the case.

Which direction(s) are the fans moving air?

At some point the air flow may becomes strong enough to move a connection/component/wire causing a disconnect. Then when the fan (or fans) stop the connection re-establishes itself and the system restarts.

The rear fan is pushing air outside, the AIO fans are also pushing air outside. So there is no effect of airflow strong enough to disconnect wires.

 

[Ralston18]

Not a disconnect.

Just something loose and able to move a bit for what ever reason: air flow, vibrations, heat (expansion/contraction).

Like a lamp that flickers when the plug is loose in the wall outlet. Or the bulb loose in the socket. Or a wire inside that is not fully secure.

 

[Samuel hut]

Not a disconnect.

Just something loose and able to move a bit for what ever reason: air flow, vibrations, heat (expansion/contraction).

Like a lamp that flickers when the plug is loose in the wall outlet. Or the bulb loose in the socket. Or a wire inside that is not fully secure.

That makes sense, thank you, will check it out.

 

[Samuel hut]

So when he bypasses the power button the computer does not power cycle?

I would not go "backwards" with respect to installing a 550 Watt PSU. Stay with a known, reputable 750 Watt PSU.

It is reasonable to install another known working PSU for testing purposes. Since his PSU failed to resolve the problem then I would question the need to replace your PSU.

There could be a problem with the cabinet switch or one of the connections involved.

Also: motherboard.

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...ds3h_e.pdf?v=0e0359fbe5ac0d70c6aa180db9639b37

[Do verify that I found the correct User Manual.]

Check the status of all LEDs: With power off and power on. Watch while power cycling.

Double check all mother board connections and configuration settings. Ensure that none of the connectors are damaged in some manner: no bare conductor showing, no melted insulation, no cracks in plastic, no kinks or pinches.

Ensure that all connectors are correctly installed. Starting with F_Panel per Physically numbered Page 16.

Also look at the User documentation for the case/cabinet. Double check everything there as well.

My thought is that something is not correctly or fully in place. Very likely may have happened when the front cover was removed.

Take a very careful, methodical look at it all.

And start thinking about finding another repair shop if the current tech is not being forth coming.

The power button has been rewired to the reset button. So far no power cycling. Will update if it remains so.

 

[Samuel hut]

Hey, so my PC has been randomly power cycling since the past two months.
I have replaced everything including the PSU, RAM, MOBO, SSD, M.2 and even the cabinet.

PC specs:
i7-8700
Mobo : Gigabyte B365 DS3h
Gskill Ripjaws 3600mhz DDR4 X1
WD black 512 M.2
Seagate 256 SSD
PSU: Coolermaster GX 750 cmstorm 80 plus bronze
Cabinet Antec NX500
NO GRAPHICS CARD INCLUDED YET

I still encountered the same issue. The only thing left to replace is the processor itself. Before I do so, could it be causing the power cycling as everyone I asked say it's rare and moreover, I have no more money left to shell for a new processor.

So, I have to be absolutely sure to buy another procesor. So can the processor cause such issues? There is no BSOD. Just random shutdowns and automatic power on.

Requesting answers as I'm exhausted trying to resolve this issue since the past 2 months and want to get it solved asap.
TIA

 

[Samuel hut]

So when he bypasses the power button the computer does not power cycle?

I would not go "backwards" with respect to installing a 550 Watt PSU. Stay with a known, reputable 750 Watt PSU.

It is reasonable to install another known working PSU for testing purposes. Since his PSU failed to resolve the problem then I would question the need to replace your PSU.

There could be a problem with the cabinet switch or one of the connections involved.

Also: motherboard.

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...ds3h_e.pdf?v=0e0359fbe5ac0d70c6aa180db9639b37

[Do verify that I found the correct User Manual.]

Check the status of all LEDs: With power off and power on. Watch while power cycling.

Double check all mother board connections and configuration settings. Ensure that none of the connectors are damaged in some manner: no bare conductor showing, no melted insulation, no cracks in plastic, no kinks or pinches.

Ensure that all connectors are correctly installed. Starting with F_Panel per Physically numbered Page 16.

Also look at the User documentation for the case/cabinet. Double check everything there as well.

My thought is that something is not correctly or fully in place. Very likely may have happened when the front cover was removed.

Take a very careful, methodical look at it all.

And start thinking about finding another repair shop if the current tech is not being forth coming.

Hey, so I took all this time to RMA the processor, turns out even with a new processor it is power cycling. Had the cabinet replaced, so rules out the possibility of short circuits with the power button.
I have a log file attached after the failed boot, could you please take a look and see if it tells you what the problem is?
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17USX-b7G1iTCsjhBNRI82d2xk1jAWIlg
TIA

 

[Ralston18]

There are a couple of Forum members who are very knowledgeable about such log files. If no one else comments I will send them the log link you provided.

Question in the meantime: Are you doing the work or is the shop guy still involved?

I am still thinking that there may be a physical short somewhere: possible with the motherboard standoffs or perhaps around the I/O panel.

= = = =

Yet the following in disklayout.txt caught my eye:

Microsoft DiskPart version 10.0.19041.1

Copyright (C) Microsoft Corporation.
On computer: MININT-1DHMU7N

Disk ### Status Size Free Dyn Gpt
-------- ------------- ------- ------- --- ---
Disk 0 Online 232 GB 0 B
Disk 1 Online 476 GB 1024 KB

Disk 0 is now the selected disk.

Disk 1 being completely full and the system then selecting Disk 0.

Depending on what the system is trying to do at any given moment, that full disk could be wreaking havoc.

Especially if more than 1024 KB is needed.

And maybe "nothing " in Disk 0.... ???

Please provide more information about the disk drive(s).

Make, model, capacity, how full. Especially if different from is being reported in the logs.

 

[Samuel hut]

There are a couple of Forum members who are very knowledgeable about such log files. If no one else comments I will send them the log link you provided.

Question in the meantime: Are you doing the work or is the shop guy still involved?

I am still thinking that there may be a physical short somewhere: possible with the motherboard standoffs or perhaps around the I/O panel.

= = = =

Yet the following in disklayout.txt caught my eye:

Microsoft DiskPart version 10.0.19041.1

Copyright (C) Microsoft Corporation.
On computer: MININT-1DHMU7N

Disk ### Status Size Free Dyn Gpt
-------- ------------- ------- ------- --- ---
Disk 0 Online 232 GB 0 B
Disk 1 Online 476 GB 1024 KB

Disk 0 is now the selected disk.

Disk 1 being completely full and the system then selecting Disk 0.

Depending on what the system is trying to do at any given moment, that full disk could be wreaking havoc.

Especially if more than 1024 KB is needed.

And maybe "nothing " in Disk 0.... ???

Please provide more information about the disk drive(s).

Make, model, capacity, how full. Especially if different from is being reported in the logs.

I've brought it home as the shop guy is clueless.
I've ruled out possible I/O shorting as I took the Mobo out of the cabinet and jumped it to turn on, after a couple of times, it power cycled.
But I know very little about standoffs, could you help me out there?
Disk 0 is a Seagate 232Gb SSD which is fully empty. Literally shows '232 out of 232gb free'.
Disk 1 is where it is booting from and it is a 512GB WD black m.2 and it isn't even close to full. In fact, 419Gb is free. I don't understand the dsklayout.txt.
I had the PC boot from an external HDD and it cycled as well so I b crossed off the m.2 as a problem.
If this helps, the power cycling happens during turning on the PC, rarely (but does occur) after the boot.
On a successful boot: The fans turn on full speed after a few seconds they are normal and it boots into the desktop.
Power cycling : The fans turn on fun speed, PC turns off as a whole (like it was disconnected from power) and it turns back on, fan on full speed shuts back down and this continues randomly till it successfully boots.

 

[Ralston18]

If you can achieve another successful boot look in Reliability History and Event Viewer for error codes etc..

As for standoffs:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-are-motherboard-standoffs-5185638#:~:text=Standoffs are traditionally screwed into,motherboard screw requires a standoff.

https://www.cgdirector.com/motherboard-standoffs-guide/

It is good that there are successful boots. That shows that everything is correctly connected and configured.

The intermittent part is that something is loose or maybe starting to falter and fail.

And I am wondering about power cycling - not sure about the full nature of that.

Are you in an area with power problems that could be getting "passed along" to the PSU?

Also thinking about the thermal paste......

 

[Samuel hut]

If you can achieve another successful boot look in Reliability History and Event Viewer for error codes etc..

As for standoffs:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-are-motherboard-standoffs-5185638#:~:text=Standoffs are traditionally screwed into,motherboard screw requires a standoff.

https://www.cgdirector.com/motherboard-standoffs-guide/

It is good that there are successful boots. That shows that everything is correctly connected and configured.

The intermittent part is that something is loose or maybe starting to falter and fail.

And I am wondering about power cycling - not sure about the full nature of that.

Are you in an area with power problems that could be getting "passed along" to the PSU?

Also thinking about the thermal paste......

Will check out the standoffs in a couple of days as it needs a little time but I have my finals going on.
I was able to get the event viewer and reliability history and have linked it below:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/182ZbrQIPzWY54gw24tql6zhRLuDUA2aA
No, pretty sure the area isn't the problem as it has happened at other locations as well. There is sufficient thermal paste and my brother was very adamant I used a high quality one, can't remember the name something along the lines of 'Arctic'.
Please look into the logs in this post and the previous one and also share it with the log experts you mentioned in the previous posts. Extremely grateful for all your answers so far.
Thank you.

 

[Ralston18]

Instead of the logs, take screenshots of what you see in Reliability History and Event Viewer.

Post the screenshots here using imgur (www.imgur.com).

But focus on your finals for now.

 

[Samuel hut]

Instead of the logs, take screenshots of what you see in Reliability History and Event Viewer.

Post the screenshots here using imgur (www.imgur.com).

But focus on your finals for now.

Thank you, will share the screenshots in a couple of days. In the meantime, can you please ask your friends/members to take a look the log files from a couple of posts back? If possible even the reliability and event viewer logs. I greatly appreciate your time and effort.
Thanks in advance

 

[Samuel hut]

Thank you, will share the screenshots in a couple of days. In the meantime, can you please ask your friends/members to take a look the log files from a couple of posts back? If possible even the reliability and event viewer logs. I greatly appreciate your time and effort.
Thanks in advance

Hey, my finals end tomorrow, will share the screenshots then, did anyone you know take a look at the log files?

 

[Ralston18]

Not sure if anyone has looked at the log files thus far. If so and if anything astray was noted there probably be a post or two.

I have been reading back and wondering about the disk drives.

Are you able to get to the Disk Management screen?

If so, expand to show all disk information and take a screenshot.

Post the screenshot here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

Do remember to post Reliability History and Event Viewer screenshots as well.

 

[Ralston18]

I have taken another read back and unfortunately not getting any real tangible ideas.

However, I have always been wondering about that 2 Volt "output" stated by the original repair guy.

That simply made no sense and I do not read where he every explained that or how it was relevant. Wondered if he managed to cause some problem or damage by using some other 2 V power source. No way to really know what may have been done.

Likely that is all moot because everything was initially replaced except for the processor. However, if I follow correctly the processor was also replaced per Post #34.

This from Post #32 caught my eye again:

"The power button has been rewired to the reset button. So far no power cycling. Will update if it remains so."

Is that rewire still in place? Has that rewire been in place all along?

I am asking because I am trying to identify some constant that has remained when everything else was changed.

Exactly how was the rewire done? Is there any wiggle in the connection(s)? (Check the connections on both ends.)

Are you able to photograph the connections?

All I have is a bit of stretch that when the fans and air flows come up to speed something (connector, cable) is moved just enough to cause a shutdown via a created short or by opening a break in a conductor . Not an actual physical disconnect per Posts #28 -#32.

A forced reset that just repeats itself.....

Here is a link to the motherboard's User Manual (be sure to verify that I found the correct manual):

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...ds3h_e.pdf?v=0e0359fbe5ac0d70c6aa180db9639b37

Physically numbered Page 16 provides information about the F_Panel connections.

From the note:

"The front panel design may differ by chassis. A front panel module mainly consists of power switch, reset switch, power LED, hard drive activity LED, speaker and etc. When connecting your chassis front panel module to this header, make sure the wire assignments and the pin assignments are matched correctly. "

Which means that you need to check the Case Manual as well to verify.

Thought being that one of the connectors between motherboard and case could be the culprit.

There may be other thoughts and ideas offered. I have no problem with that.

 

[Samuel hut]

I have taken another read back and unfortunately not getting any real tangible ideas.

However, I have always been wondering about that 2 Volt "output" stated by the original repair guy.

That simply made no sense and I do not read where he every explained that or how it was relevant. Wondered if he managed to cause some problem or damage by using some other 2 V power source. No way to really know what may have been done.

Likely that is all moot because everything was initially replaced except for the processor. However, if I follow correctly the processor was also replaced per Post #34.

This from Post #32 caught my eye again:

"The power button has been rewired to the reset button. So far no power cycling. Will update if it remains so."

Is that rewire still in place? Has that rewire been in place all along?

I am asking because I am trying to identify some constant that has remained when everything else was changed.

Exactly how was the rewire done? Is there any wiggle in the connection(s)? (Check the connections on both ends.)

Are you able to photograph the connections?

All I have is a bit of stretch that when the fans and air flows come up to speed something (connector, cable) is moved just enough to cause a shutdown via a created short or by opening a break in a conductor . Not an actual physical disconnect per Posts #28 -#32.

A forced reset that just repeats itself.....

Here is a link to the motherboard's User Manual (be sure to verify that I found the correct manual):

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...ds3h_e.pdf?v=0e0359fbe5ac0d70c6aa180db9639b37

Physically numbered Page 16 provides information about the F_Panel connections.

From the note:

"The front panel design may differ by chassis. A front panel module mainly consists of power switch, reset switch, power LED, hard drive activity LED, speaker and etc. When connecting your chassis front panel module to this header, make sure the wire assignments and the pin assignments are matched correctly. "

Which means that you need to check the Case Manual as well to verify.

Thought being that one of the connectors between motherboard and case could be the culprit.

There may be other thoughts and ideas offered. I have no problem with that.

Hey thank you, no I'm pretty sure that the technical was making that 2v thing up.
Yes the processor has been replaced. The rewire was simply that the cpu panel's reset wire has been plugged into the mobo's on/off pin. But it's been put back to normal since that didn't solve the problem.
Yes that is the right manual, and all the connections are rightly connected.
I have uploaded the event viewer and reliability history logs as photos here and they are confusing me.

https://imgur.com/a/GyJELZQ

View: https://imgur.com/a/GyJELZQ

The logs say that it was a hard disk error that caused the boot fail but I had tried booting it with another hard disk and it cycled then as well.
Is there a way to find out which disk caused it? Because I have 2 and I've only replaced the one with the OS on it, could the other one be causing it despite not being booted from?

 

[Ralston18]

Yes the logs are confusing and must be looked at in detail but also in context and for patterns. And specific codes may or may not be helpful.

Hard disk errors can be caused by power problems and as I understand your post the problem(s) continue with other known working drives. Which in turn could be corrupted if their power is interrupted.

And if some app or utility launched at startup looks for that second drive and cannot find it, then the app may not gracefully report the "missing" drive and simply cause a crash. Check what apps and utilities are being launched at startup. Look for anything unexpected or unidentified. Do not disable or delete until further investigation about that app or utility.

Disable fast startup. Determine if doing so ends the boot failures.

Failing that then, as it appears your can achieve some successful boots, try running "sfc /scannow" and "dism".

Power losses can and do cause file corruptions and a failed update (noted in the logs) could be a contributor.

References:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image

The next step would be to run the applicable Manufacturer's disk drive utilities/analyzers to determine if there is indeed some disk drive hardware problem.

 

[Samuel hut]

Yes the logs are confusing and must be looked at in detail but also in context and for patterns. And specific codes may or may not be helpful.

Hard disk errors can be caused by power problems and as I understand your post the problem(s) continue with other known working drives. Which in turn could be corrupted if their power is interrupted.

And if some app or utility launched at startup looks for that second drive and cannot find it, then the app may not gracefully report the "missing" drive and simply cause a crash. Check what apps and utilities are being launched at startup. Look for anything unexpected or unidentified. Do not disable or delete until further investigation about that app or utility.

Disable fast startup. Determine if doing so ends the boot failures.

Failing that then, as it appears your can achieve some successful boots, try running "sfc /scannow" and "dism".

Power losses can and do cause file corruptions and a failed update (noted in the logs) could be a contributor.

References:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image

The next step would be to run the applicable Manufacturer's disk drive utilities/analyzers to determine if there is indeed some disk drive hardware problem.

Is there anyway you could look at the logs? Would be extremely helpful if you could.
No, I've disabled pretty all softwares at startup.
The message after running the scan now. But I'm very sure that the OS isn't the problem as I've done a clean re install of it twice now:

https://imgur.com/a/9et6LCb

View: https://imgur.com/a/9et6LCb

I'm positive that the update has nothing to do with this.
Again, do the log files tell you anything? The SSD is a WDblack 512Gb m.2, how do I check it?
What're the normal temperatures for an M.2? Can they be too hot to touch?

 

[Ralston18]

I am not seeing anything in the logs at this time.

With two clean installs the logs would "start over" anyway and with fewer entries any problems would hopefully stand out with respect to Reliability History and Event Viewer.

As for the temperatures:

Is the following link a product match for the SSD that you have installed?

WDblack SSD

With or without a heat sink?

The spec sheet provides temperature information in the specs and the Footnotes as well.

What temperatures are being reported per Footnote #7.

Western Digital Tools:

https://support.wdc.com/downloads.aspx?p=279

 

[Samuel hut]

I am not seeing anything in the logs at this time.

With two clean installs the logs would "start over" anyway and with fewer entries any problems would hopefully stand out with respect to Reliability History and Event Viewer.

As for the temperatures:

Is the following link a product match for the SSD that you have installed?

WDblack SSD

With or without a heat sink?

The spec sheet provides temperature information in the specs and the Footnotes as well.

What temperatures are being reported per Footnote #7.

Western Digital Tools:

https://support.wdc.com/downloads.aspx?p=279

https://www.newegg.com/global/sa-en/western-digital-black-512gb/p/N82E16820250085
this is the model I have, no heatsink, will let you know about the temperatures ASAP.

 

[Samuel hut]

I am not seeing anything in the logs at this time.

With two clean installs the logs would "start over" anyway and with fewer entries any problems would hopefully stand out with respect to Reliability History and Event Viewer.

As for the temperatures:

Is the following link a product match for the SSD that you have installed?

WDblack SSD

With or without a heat sink?

The spec sheet provides temperature information in the specs and the Footnotes as well.

What temperatures are being reported per Footnote #7.

Western Digital Tools:

https://support.wdc.com/downloads.aspx?p=279

No

https://www.newegg.com/global/sa-en/western-digital-black-512gb/p/N82E16820250085
this is the model I have, no heatsink, will let you know about the temperatures ASAP.

https://imgur.com/jxBdNHp

View: https://i.imgur.com/jxBdNHp.jpg

here is the temperature after running the software heavyload for read and write for about 15 minutes, hence the storage being shown as nearly full. When I stop the software, I have about 410Gb free.

 

[Samuel hut]

I am not seeing anything in the logs at this time.

With two clean installs the logs would "start over" anyway and with fewer entries any problems would hopefully stand out with respect to Reliability History and Event Viewer.

As for the temperatures:

Is the following link a product match for the SSD that you have installed?

WDblack SSD

With or without a heat sink?

The spec sheet provides temperature information in the specs and the Footnotes as well.

What temperatures are being reported per Footnote #7.

Western Digital Tools:

https://support.wdc.com/downloads.aspx?p=279

Do you think this is the problem?