Range Extender for 2 Story House

[twinswild4packers]

I have an Ubee all-in-one modem/router/phone that I lease from my cable provider. It is the best option for the 30 MBPS speed I am paying for. The device is located on the 2nd floor of a 2 story house in an upstairs living room where the most devices connect WiFi so I am getting good signal strength and connection speed in this room. However, this upstairs living room is located above a garage which must be causing dead-zones or interference as connecting in other locations throughout the house I only get 1-2 bars.

I would like to avoid hard-wiring devices between the first floor and second floor. I would also like to avoid purchasing my own modem/router as I have tried this before with my cable company and it complicates everything (believe me, I have tried multiple times). I have heard mixed results about a WiFi Extener but I believe this might be a smart purchase: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388869790&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+repeater

There are really only two main rooms where I would like to have the best signal strength: the 2nd floor living room where the modem/router is located (and I have tried moving this to a more neutral location but this either doesn't work or results in poor signal strength everywhere) and the living room on 1st floor, which is also on the opposite side of the house facing the backyard (the 2nd floor living room faces the street).

Would you recommend this repeater? If so, where should I put the repeater? If not, what is a better option? Thanks

 

[RealBeast]

They may help, but I usually avoid using extenders as the are fairly unreliable. The preferred solution would be adding a wireless AP to the dead zone. Since you do not want to run an Ethernet cable, you would have to use a pair of 600Mbps powerline adapters to attach the AP. The AP will actually be an inexpensive wireless router that is configured as an access point, because they are cheaper and better quality than consumer access points.

If you are interested in that approach, I can talk you through it -- it is very easy and the results are excellent.

 

[twinswild4packers]

I do have an extra router sitting around, I assume this could be used as an access point? I am not familiar with the process of adding powerline adapters to the access point. Can you explain how that works and what to buy? Thanks

They may help, but I usually avoid using extenders as the are fairly unreliable. The preferred solution would be adding a wireless AP to the dead zone. Since you do not want to run an Ethernet cable, you would have to use a pair of 600Mbps powerline adapters to attach the AP. The AP will actually be an inexpensive wireless router that is configured as an access point, because they are cheaper and better quality than consumer access points.

If you are interested in that approach, I can talk you through it -- it is very easy and the results are excellent.

 

[RealBeast]

Yes, you extra router would work fine. Most of the newer powerline adapters are just plug and play, but like wireless they don't achieve marketed speeds, so get a 600Mbps pair like the Zyxel PLA5205kit. Powerline adapters plug into you electric sockets and use your home electrical wiring to transmit data. They work pretty well if you avoid surge protectors, large motors on the same plug (like floor fans) and power strips.

I use them all the time to place an AP for a client who can't run cable.

 

[twinswild4packers]

I've actually never tried using a router as an access point. I have a Linksys E1200 and a D-Link DIR-628. Which one would be better and how would I set this up? I would like to try this before purchasing a Powerline Adapter.

Yes, you extra router would work fine. Most of the newer powerline adapters are just plug and play, but like wireless they don't achieve marketed speeds, so get a 600Mbps pair like the Zyxel PLA5205kit. Powerline adapters plug into you electric sockets and use your home electrical wiring to transmit data. They work pretty well if you avoid surge protectors, large motors on the same plug (like floor fans) and power strips.

I use them all the time to place an AP for a client who can't run cable.

 

[RealBeast]

I would use the D-Link since it has dual band availability, although not concurrent. Plus it is a better router.

Just attach a computer to it, set up the wireless radio SSID and passkey (you can use the same of different up to you), if you use the 2.4GHz radio use a different non-overlapping channel (1, 6, or 11) from the main router, turn off DHCP, give it a static address that is in the network range but not in the main router DHCP range. So it the main router is 192.168.x.1, make the DIR-628 192.168.x.2, and set the main router DHCP range 192.168.x.3 to up to 254. Set that static address in both the DIR-628 and in the static table of the main router (you will need the DIR-628 MAC address handy for that). Then just attach it LAN to LAN to the main router with an Ethernet cable for now. Done.

 

[twinswild4packers]

Is there a way to not have the routers connect LAN-to-LAN? I think I was able to get this to work with them connected, but when unconnected, my devices (such as phone and tablet) appeared connected but would not connect to the internet. I basically want to test the D-Link in the room with bad reception.

At this point I am pretty sold on power line adapters but I just wanted to see how that would work first. Thanks

I would use the D-Link since it has dual band availability, although not concurrent. Plus it is a better router.

Just attach a computer to it, set up the wireless radio SSID and passkey (you can use the same of different up to you), if you use the 2.4GHz radio use a different non-overlapping channel (1, 6, or 11) from the main router, turn off DHCP, give it a static address that is in the network range but not in the main router DHCP range. So it the main router is 192.168.x.1, make the DIR-628 192.168.x.2, and set the main router DHCP range 192.168.x.3 to up to 254. Set that static address in both the DIR-628 and in the static table of the main router (you will need the DIR-628 MAC address handy for that). Then just attach it LAN to LAN to the main router with an Ethernet cable for now. Done.

 

[RealBeast]

Powerline adapters work very well if you buy good quality adapters (get the 600Mbps). To have an AP they must be connected LAN to LAN -- otherwise you would be trying to set up a wireless bridge that would not work well for your layout and would just be a constant headache.

 

[twinswild4packers]

I asked about one I found on Amazon a somebody said: This will more than likely cause unnecessary overhead on your network. You should look into getting a signal booster

Here is what I am looking at: http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Powerline-Gigabit-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00D7GF6NA

Also, which one should I get? Non Pass-Through or Pass-Through? The 600Mbps GbE or the 600Mbps GbE KIT (which has two)?

And lastly, can I have both routers under the same network name/password?

Powerline adapters work very well if you buy good quality adapters (get the 600Mbps). To have an AP they must be connected LAN to LAN -- otherwise you would be trying to set up a wireless bridge that would not work well for your layout and would just be a constant headache.

 

[RealBeast]

A "signal booster" aka extender is a complete waste of money and powerline does not add any network overhead, they just run slower than advertised so you need the best. HERE is a site that tests and ranks powerline adapters.

I've used both the PLA5205kit and the passthrough model PLA5215 kit, they work the same and do an excellent job. It just depends if you need the passthrough plug of the 5215 -- or if one is on sale buy that one.

Both routers that are configured as APs can use the same SSID and password (or not up to you), but they will both be on the same network as the main router.