[SOLVED] Rate my Rig

godspanther

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Dec 16, 2012
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After a recent upgrade these are my specs:
Xigmatek Elysium Super Tower
AMD Ryzen 9 5900X Dodeca-core, 24-Thread Unlocked Processor
ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 45 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler
MSI MEG X570 GODLIKE Gaming Motherboard AMD AM4 SATA 6Gb/s M.2 USB 3.2 Wi-Fi 6 Extended-ATX
(boot) - OCZ 512GB Vertex4 2.5" Internal SSD VTX4-25SAT3-256G
SAMSUNG 980 PRO 1TB PCIe NVMe Gen4 Internal M.2 SSD
(2) - Seagate BarraCuda ST2000DM008 2TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 [Raid-0 Array]
(4) - G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 4000 (PC4 32000) Intel XMP 2.0 Desktop Memory Model F4-4000C18Q-128GVK
(2) - XFX AMD Radeon RX 580 Black Edition 8GB GDDR5 Graphics Card (RX-580P8DBDR)
LEPA G Series 1600-Watts ATX12V/EPS12V SLI Ready Crossfire 80+ Gold Certified Full Modular 240-Pin 1700 PSU
LG Electronics CH12LS28 LightScribe 12x SATA Blu-ray Disc Combo
LG Electronics WH14NS40 14X SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter
ORICO PVU3-5O2I 7 Port USB 3.0 PCI - Express Card
Akasa 3.5" USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Memory Card Reader w/ eSATA and USB (AK-ICR-17)
Kingwin USB 3.0 Dual Port PCI Bracket
ALTEC LANSING ATP3 30 Watts RMS 2.1 Speaker
Altec Lansing Expressionist-PLUS FX3021 2.1
Primary moniter: BenQ XL2720T 27" 3D Ready LED LCD Monitor
Secondary moniter: VIZIO VM3D550D 55in 3D RAZOR LED
Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth 2013 keyboard
Razer Mamba Wireless Gaming Laser Mouse 5600 DPI
I run Windows 7 because 10.

Mod Edit - Watch the Language
 
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Solution
1

IMO, Norton sucks and you're better off, by far, using other solutions.

Windows 10 destroys Windows 7 in practically EVERY regard, bar none. There is actually not a single thing Windows 7 does better or more efficiently than Windows 10, and aesthetically, if that is your main gripe, that can easily be solved by running Classic shell with Windows 10 and choosing the Windows 7 shell option so that it looks the same, or in fact, like practically any version (Or none) of Windows that you want. Technically speaking, Windows 7 doesn't realistically offer anything, nothing, and I invite anybody who disagrees to show some kind of proof to the contrary, actual proof, better or even AS good as Windows 10 behind the curtains.

Then you have a...

godspanther

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Dec 16, 2012
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I have all the parts except the processor which is on back order. What cooler would be sufficient in your experience?

As for Win7 I rely heavily on LifeLock, ExpressVPN & Norton AntiVirus to get me by until Microsoft puts out an OS worth a <Mod Edit>.
 
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I have all the parts except the processor which is on back order. What cooler would be sufficient in your experience?

As for Win7 I rely heavily on LifeLock, ExpressVPN & Norton AntiVirus to get me by until Microsoft puts out an OS worth a <Mod Edit>.

Dark Rock Pro 4 or Noctua NH-D15 are pretty much a necessity for a 5900x and even they will struggle at some points under very heavy usage.

Otherwise you're looking at a decent 280mm+ aio.

The 5900x is a monstrously powerful cpu and it's also monstrously hard to keep cool.
 
Mostly gaming and multimedia processing

Is that system bought recently like the board and GPU's etc? What is new? What's the upgrade?

How much did you pay for the motherboard, the two RX 580?

I'm asking because this build is a bit unbalanced and could be a lot higher priced than it should be if you bought all of the parts recently.

Like that board is 900 dollars right now and a RX 580 is almost 700 dollars. Doesn't make any sense to buy any of this atm especially if you have that CPU cooler with all those overpriced parts.

OCZ vertex4 9 years old model SSD instead of the samsung 980 pro as the boot drive?

(4) RAM? Does that mean it's from a kit or is that 4 individually bought stick? 4000MHz will probably not stick with 4 sticks of RAM using XMP.

Please use Windows 10. With that hardware. Windows 10.
 
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godspanther

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Dec 16, 2012
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This was before the upgrade:
Xigmatek Elysium Super Tower
Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Processor - Six Core, 6MB L3 Cache, 3MB L2 Cache, 3.30GHz, Unlocked (overclocked to 3.78GHz)
Thermalright Archon CPU cooler
MSI 890FXA-GD70 Motherboard AMD 890FX, Socket AM3, ATX, DDR3, RAID, SATA 6.0GB/s, USB 3.0
(boot) - OCZ 512GB Vertex4 2.5" Internal SSD VTX4-25SAT3-256G
(2) - Seagate Barracuda 2TB Serial ATA Hard Drive - 7200, 64MB, SATA-6G [Raid-0 Array]
(4) - Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M1A1600C9 4GB PC12800 DDR3 RAM - Dual Channel, 1600MHz, 4096MB
(2) - AMD Radeon XFX Double D HD 7970 Black Edition 3GB GDDR5
SoundBlaster X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro
LEPA G Series 1600-Watts ATX12V/EPS12V SLI Ready Crossfire 80+ Gold Certified Full Modular 240-Pin 1700 PSU
LG Electronics CH12LS28 LightScribe 12x SATA Blu-ray Disc Combo
LG Electronics WH14NS40 14X SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter
TP-Link Wireless N Dual Band PCI Express Adapter with 3 x 2dBi Antenna (TL-WDN4800)
ORICO PVU3-5O2I 7 Port USB 3.0 PCI - Express Card
Akasa 3.5" USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Memory Card Reader w/ eSATA and USB (AK-ICR-17)
ALTEC LANSING ATP3 30 Watts RMS 2.1 Speaker
Altec Lansing Expressionist-PLUS FX3021 2.1
Primary moniter: BenQ XL2720T 27" 3D Ready LED LCD Monitor
Secondary moniter: VIZIO VM3D550D 55in 3D RAZOR LED
Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth 2013 keyboard
Razer Mamba Wireless Gaming Laser Mouse 5600 DPI

After one of the 7970 graphics cards failed the first week of February I looked over my finances and decided that a partial upgrade was in order. At the time I didn't even know what M.2 was. Didn't even realize until after I had the board in hand. I might make the Samsung 980 the boot drive then migrate critical data over once I get all the parts. I got the Meg for $764 and the RX 580's for $601 & $609 respectively. One new & the other open box. Ram entry edited (4) = four sticks. As far as Windows 10 is concerned.... No. Just NO. I will wait and see if Microsoft's next OS is better.
 
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This was before the upgrade:
Xigmatek Elysium Super Tower
Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Processor - Six Core, 6MB L3 Cache, 3MB L2 Cache, 3.30GHz, Unlocked (overclocked to 3.78GHz)
Thermalright Archon CPU cooler
MSI 890FXA-GD70 Motherboard AMD 890FX, Socket AM3, ATX, DDR3, RAID, SATA 6.0GB/s, USB 3.0
(boot) - OCZ 512GB Vertex4 2.5" Internal SSD VTX4-25SAT3-256G
(2) - Seagate Barracuda 2TB Serial ATA Hard Drive - 7200, 64MB, SATA-6G [Raid-0 Array]
(4) - Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M1A1600C9 4GB PC12800 DDR3 RAM - Dual Channel, 1600MHz, 4096MB
(2) - AMD Radeon XFX Double D HD 7970 Black Edition 3GB GDDR5
SoundBlaster X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro
LEPA G Series 1600-Watts ATX12V/EPS12V SLI Ready Crossfire 80+ Gold Certified Full Modular 240-Pin 1700 PSU
LG Electronics CH12LS28 LightScribe 12x SATA Blu-ray Disc Combo
LG Electronics WH14NS40 14X SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter
TP-Link Wireless N Dual Band PCI Express Adapter with 3 x 2dBi Antenna (TL-WDN4800)
ORICO PVU3-5O2I 7 Port USB 3.0 PCI - Express Card
Akasa 3.5" USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Memory Card Reader w/ eSATA and USB (AK-ICR-17)
ALTEC LANSING ATP3 30 Watts RMS 2.1 Speaker
Altec Lansing Expressionist-PLUS FX3021 2.1
Primary moniter: BenQ XL2720T 27" 3D Ready LED LCD Monitor
Secondary moniter: VIZIO VM3D550D 55in 3D RAZOR LED
Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth 2013 keyboard
Razer Mamba Wireless Gaming Laser Mouse 5600 DPI

After one of the 7970 graphics cards failed the first week of February I looked over my finances and decided that a partial upgrade was in order. At the time I didn't even know what M.2 was. Didn't even realize until after I had the board in hand. I might make the Samsung 980 the boot drive then migrate critical data over once I get all the parts. I got the Meg for $764 and the RX 580's for $601 & $609 respectively. One new & the other open box. Ram entry edited (4) = four sticks. As far as Windows 10 is concerned.... No. Just NO. I will wait and see if Microsoft's next OS is better.

Don't get me wrong. You have a decent system. The CPU is amazing. 128GB of RAM is overkill even if you have to run them at 3600MHz.

The only part where I'm a bit disturbed about is the motherboard, CPU cooler and the GPU's.

That 764 dollars motherboard was really not needed. A 200 dollars or 250 dollars board would have been enough and with the saved money you could have bought a good GPU but only 1. Like a RTX 3080 or RX 6800/6900XT. Crossfire and SLI is dead. It's always better to buy 1 good GPU instead of 2 ok GPU and you paid 1200 dollars for 2 RX 580. A RX 580 is normally half that price or more. Gonna love Covid + supply shortage.

RTX 3080 vs RX 580. Even if you use two in crossfire it's only working on some game title correctly and it's worst than 1 RTX 3080.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGELlVSGGHA
 
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Zerk2012

Titan
Ambassador
This was before the upgrade:
Xigmatek Elysium Super Tower
Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Processor - Six Core, 6MB L3 Cache, 3MB L2 Cache, 3.30GHz, Unlocked (overclocked to 3.78GHz)
Thermalright Archon CPU cooler
MSI 890FXA-GD70 Motherboard AMD 890FX, Socket AM3, ATX, DDR3, RAID, SATA 6.0GB/s, USB 3.0
(boot) - OCZ 512GB Vertex4 2.5" Internal SSD VTX4-25SAT3-256G
(2) - Seagate Barracuda 2TB Serial ATA Hard Drive - 7200, 64MB, SATA-6G [Raid-0 Array]
(4) - Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M1A1600C9 4GB PC12800 DDR3 RAM - Dual Channel, 1600MHz, 4096MB
(2) - AMD Radeon XFX Double D HD 7970 Black Edition 3GB GDDR5
SoundBlaster X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro
LEPA G Series 1600-Watts ATX12V/EPS12V SLI Ready Crossfire 80+ Gold Certified Full Modular 240-Pin 1700 PSU
LG Electronics CH12LS28 LightScribe 12x SATA Blu-ray Disc Combo
LG Electronics WH14NS40 14X SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter
TP-Link Wireless N Dual Band PCI Express Adapter with 3 x 2dBi Antenna (TL-WDN4800)
ORICO PVU3-5O2I 7 Port USB 3.0 PCI - Express Card
Akasa 3.5" USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Memory Card Reader w/ eSATA and USB (AK-ICR-17)
ALTEC LANSING ATP3 30 Watts RMS 2.1 Speaker
Altec Lansing Expressionist-PLUS FX3021 2.1
Primary moniter: BenQ XL2720T 27" 3D Ready LED LCD Monitor
Secondary moniter: VIZIO VM3D550D 55in 3D RAZOR LED
Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth 2013 keyboard
Razer Mamba Wireless Gaming Laser Mouse 5600 DPI

After one of the 7970 graphics cards failed the first week of February I looked over my finances and decided that a partial upgrade was in order. At the time I didn't even know what M.2 was. Didn't even realize until after I had the board in hand. I might make the Samsung 980 the boot drive then migrate critical data over once I get all the parts. I got the Meg for $764 and the RX 580's for $601 & $609 respectively. One new & the other open box. Ram entry edited (4) = four sticks. As far as Windows 10 is concerned.... No. Just NO. I will wait and see if Microsoft's next OS is better.
You wish for it to be rated I would give it a 2 out of 10.
Xfire is 2021, 4 individual sticks of memory, for the price of the motherboard you could of bought a nice processor and motherboard, about guarantee massive overkill on the memory.

For 1200 bucks you could of paid a scalper price and got a RTX 3070/3080.

Reusing a power supply that is what like 10 years old?

I guess you think your just going to pop in that SSD with the operating system on it and the PC work .

Another poster that should of posted first then bought instead of the other way around.

EDIT to make it say 2 out of 10 instead or 2 or 10.
 
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Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
what case fans do you have?
have you got a fan in the side slot where it can at least blow cool air onto GPU?
You should use water to cool that CPU, I only have a 3600 and I have a 240mm rad, probably overkill for my CPU but you probably need something like that or a 360mm AIO (Case can take 360 or 480, according to website, it doesn't say where though - https://www.xigmatek.com/product_detail.php?item=9)

At least the front of the case is mesh.
 
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DSzymborski

Titan
Moderator
Sorry, got to rate this fairly low, on the level of 2 or 3 out of 10.. The performance will generally be OK, but the fact that it looks like you're spending $3000 on a PC that will frequently get outperformed in gaming by a $1500 build (or even less) is a major flaw. The parts make little sense together and some of the choices are downright ludicrous.
 
1

IMO, Norton sucks and you're better off, by far, using other solutions.

Windows 10 destroys Windows 7 in practically EVERY regard, bar none. There is actually not a single thing Windows 7 does better or more efficiently than Windows 10, and aesthetically, if that is your main gripe, that can easily be solved by running Classic shell with Windows 10 and choosing the Windows 7 shell option so that it looks the same, or in fact, like practically any version (Or none) of Windows that you want. Technically speaking, Windows 7 doesn't realistically offer anything, nothing, and I invite anybody who disagrees to show some kind of proof to the contrary, actual proof, better or even AS good as Windows 10 behind the curtains.

Then you have a Godlike board with two of what are now barely adequate 1080p cards, for use in a crossfire configuration that has largely been abandoned by game developers and AMD (Much as SLI has mostly been discarded by Nvidia) and, regardless of lack of support or not, can't offer what a single card costing MUCH less than you paid for those two RX 580's cost. I think you need to reconsider the entire build, but since you have the parts already the only real option might be to reconsider the graphics cards because that's probably the worst of the mess aside from the fact that as mentioned, running Windows 7 on that board, or with some of the other hardware, is not going to be the simple matter that you think it is. It can work, but there is little reason to test that theory.

Then you have an 8 to 10 year old power supply, which, while very good when new, is WAY past the point where the manufacturer felt the unit could continue to be be trustworthy, since that power supply came with only a three year warranty which was piss poor even back then, much less compared to what's out there now. No way I'd even CONSIDER running this hardware on that power supply unless you have no qualms about having to puchase it all over again when the PSU zaps something on it's way out. Simply put, there are few people who know what they are doing who would be willing to take this risk with the dollar amount of hardware I see listed above. I sure as hell wouldn't. You should address your graphics cards and the power supply and that will take you are least moderately closer to where you wanted to go than where you are now.
 
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Solution

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
MSI MEG X570 GODLIKE Gaming Motherboard AMD AM4 SATA 6Gb/s M.2 USB 3.2 Wi-Fi 6 Extended-ATX
(boot) - OCZ 512GB Vertex4 2.5" Internal SSD VTX4-25SAT3-256G
SAMSUNG 980 PRO 1TB PCIe NVMe Gen4 Internal M.2 SSD

If you're running a 5900X I would suggest trashing that Vertex 4 or using it as an external / backup drive. The 980 Pro should be your primary boot drive. Then get a 2nd 1 or 2TB M2 drive for your secondary storage, like a Corsair Force, Sabrent Rocket, or Intel 760P.

I run Windows 7 because 10.

And you're not going to on a 5950X with that motherboard. There's no way that the drivers will be available for it in order for it to properly run and make sure you'll get the full functionality of it.. I run Windows 10 on 4 laptops, 3 desktops, and a Surface and have since 2016 and they're all fine. Never had a problem with any of them. Eventually you'll be forced to upgrade. It's planned obsolescence.

As for Win7 I rely heavily on LifeLock, ExpressVPN & Norton AntiVirus to get me by until Microsoft puts out an OS worth a <Mod Edit>.

Lifelock? Seriously? You might as well slap a "hack me" sign on your PC. :ange:

Oh and if you think I'm joking about this there are literally hundreds of articles out there on how many times Lifelock has been the victims of hacks and data breaches. It takes like a 5 minute Google search.
 
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godspanther

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This has all been very helpful. I will of course be making the 980 the boot drive. I will be breaking down and adopting Windows 10. I admit me aversion thus far was due to a dislike of earlier versions. I also admit however that I haven't really touched it in years so was unaware of the extent of it's improvement. I sent back the Arctic and got a Corsair iCUE H150i RGB Pro XT. I will be looking into getting a new PSU, perhaps moving up from Gold into the Platinum or even Titanium series. This will not be immediate as the company I was working for just went belly up leaving me searching for new employment. However I have faith that the equipment will last a bit longer. It is after all a 1600W PSU and of exceptional quality, more than was technically needed for the old build and therefore never pushed anywhere near it's full capacity. I should be able to eke out a few more months with it until back on my feet. I am somewhat torn concerning the RX 580. Given my finances I had decided to get the cheaper cards to just get me by until the end of the shortage and the prices dropped. Now I am considering just using one of them and re-selling the other. I could still get by and the infusion of cash might come in handy. I still intend to get the best graphics cards on the market after the price drops. With the core of the system set I can always upgrade.
 

Fiorezy

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Jul 3, 2020
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This has all been very helpful. I will of course be making the 980 the boot drive. I will be breaking down and adopting Windows 10. I admit me aversion thus far was due to a dislike of earlier versions. I also admit however that I haven't really touched it in years so was unaware of the extent of it's improvement. I sent back the Arctic and got a Corsair iCUE H150i RGB Pro XT. I will be looking into getting a new PSU, perhaps moving up from Gold into the Platinum or even Titanium series. This will not be immediate as the company I was working for just went belly up leaving me searching for new employment. However I have faith that the equipment will last a bit longer. It is after all a 1600W PSU and of exceptional quality, more than was technically needed for the old build and therefore never pushed anywhere near it's full capacity. I should be able to eke out a few more months with it until back on my feet. I am somewhat torn concerning the RX 580. Given my finances I had decided to get the cheaper cards to just get me by until the end of the shortage and the prices dropped. Now I am considering just using one of them and re-selling the other. I could still get by and the infusion of cash might come in handy. I still intend to get the best graphics cards on the market after the price drops. With the core of the system set I can always upgrade.
I don't get how you spent $1200 on 2x580s, since you had the money you could've just bought a 3070 or 3080 from a scalper
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
This has all been very helpful. I will of course be making the 980 the boot drive. I will be breaking down and adopting Windows 10. I admit me aversion thus far was due to a dislike of earlier versions. I also admit however that I haven't really touched it in years so was unaware of the extent of it's improvement. I sent back the Arctic and got a Corsair iCUE H150i RGB Pro XT. I will be looking into getting a new PSU, perhaps moving up from Gold into the Platinum or even Titanium series. This will not be immediate as the company I was working for just went belly up leaving me searching for new employment. However I have faith that the equipment will last a bit longer. It is after all a 1600W PSU and of exceptional quality, more than was technically needed for the old build and therefore never pushed anywhere near it's full capacity.

Actually it really isn't. Even 8 years ago it was a B or C tiered PSU at best. And that's with marginal capacitors that cost way more than it was worth. And the only reason you would ever buy or use a PSU with that high of a wattage was that you were running 3 or 4 way SLI but even that was redundant. These days you don't really need anything more than a solid 850W for most applications. Plus the thing you have to remember too with power supplies is that capacitors wear out over time and they're not as effective as they are when the PSU is brand new. Happens to even the best PSUs on the market.
 
Actually it really isn't. Even 8 years ago it was a B or C tiered PSU at best. And that's with marginal capacitors that cost way more than it was worth. And the only reason you would ever buy or use a PSU with that high of a wattage was that you were running 3 or 4 way SLI but even that was redundant. These days you don't really need anything more than a solid 850W for most applications. Plus the thing you have to remember too with power supplies is that capacitors wear out over time and they're not as effective as they are when the PSU is brand new. Happens to even the best PSUs on the market.
No it wasn't. It was an excellent power supply when it was new. Unfortunately, that was too long ago for it to be very reliable or trustworthy anymore.

If it was MY hardware, there is no way, at all, I'd even consider running a power supply that old in any system with hardware I really cared about, much less hardware running into the thousands of dollars. It's a good way to create a bad day scenario.

But if that unit was new, even given the age of the platform it uses, I'd have little worry using it.
 
D

Deleted member 2838871

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If it was MY hardware, there is no way, at all, I'd even consider running a power supply that old in any system with hardware I really cared about, much less hardware running into the thousands of dollars. It's a good way to create a bad day scenario.

Yeah... it's truly amazing at how many times I've seen people put together PC builds/part lists and want to spend thousands and then pair it with a cheap/old PSU. Skimping on what is basically the heart of the build isn't something I'd ever consider... and I went 1000W with my 3090 and 10900k. Could I have gotten by with 850W? Probably... but for a few dollars more the 1000W made the most sense given the thirst for juice these 2 components have.
 
That's great, but, there are 750w units that can put out higher peak and sustained "watts" than some 1000-1200w units. Using strictly "watts" as the measure of a power supply is itself a big mistake. Of far more importance is exactly what model it is, because there are so many different tiers of quality and performance across product lines even within the same company. EVGA, for example, has had some of the very best, and some of the very worst units among all commonly purchased models in most markets, so if somebody told me they bought an EVGA power supply my only answer would have to be "Hmm, really? What MODEL did you get?"

Because therein lies the rub. No way to know if somebody did well simply going off of "brand" and "watts". Corsair, EVGA, FSP, Antec, Fractal Design, LEPA, Super Flower and even Seasonic have models that are outstanding, but they also have some real turds here and there as well, so you just don't know with any certainty unless you know the model AND there is a reliable professional review of that model somewhere reputable. If there's not, then regardless of whose name it carries, it might just be a bad purchase.