Hello colleagues. I own Razer DeathAdder Essential for some weeks now. I have feeling that anything under 1600 dpi on desktop is slow and I have to move my hand much to finish normal desktop navigation and tasks. I used to have Logitech M100 non-gaming mouse and its 1000 dpi was enough for normal desktop use, moreover I hadn´t feeling that it´s slow or sluggish. I mean, it´s not an issue now, I can raise dpi easily for DeathAdder and use it with 1600-1800 on desktop (which I actually do) but do you have some explanation for this, that 800-1000 dpi basic mice were almost of same feeling and speed like DeathAdder on 1800 dpi in desktop environment? Please don´t get me wrong, I´m more than happy and satisfied with Razer´s mouse performance, it is an oustanding piece, but I´m just curious about this phenomenon.
Three possible options:
1. Basic mice had their DPI in the ballpark figure, while in actuality it was higher. Or Win/mice added in mouse pointer acceleration, to make the mouse cursor move more with each movement.
2. Razer DPI scale is way off, saying it having 1800 DPI, while in actuality, it is far less, comparable to basic mice. (Lying about specs, making number higher, is old marketing trick).
3. 1000 vs 1600 DPI difference is quite small and you may remember that they both felt the same. Unless you refreshen your experience (take basic mice and try them out side by side), you can't say them being same.
I've used Corsair mice in my years and for desktop movement, i'm using 3000 DPI. With that DPI value, i can only move my wrist around a bit, to reach edges of the screen, without the need to move my entire hand. Of course, with that high DPI value, you need to be very precise with your wrist movement.
For minute accuracy, i have a dedicated button on my mice, that drops the DPI way down to 400. I quite often need to use it.
Oh, i also have dedicated buttons to change the DPI profiles of my mouse. Currently having 1500, 3000 and 6000 DPI profiles on my mice, while 3000 DPI is my daily driver. Other profiles are helpful when certain applications have DPI issues and my default 3000 DPI is either too fast or too slow. Though, i can calibrate my mice DPI by increments of 1, from the range of 100 to 18000.
Three possible options:
1. Basic mice had their DPI in the ballpark figure, while in actuality it was higher. Or Win/mice added in mouse pointer acceleration, to make the mouse cursor move more with each movement.
2. Razer DPI scale is way off, saying it having 1800 DPI, while in actuality, it is far less, comparable to basic mice. (Lying about specs, making number higher, is old marketing trick).
3. 1000 vs 1600 DPI difference is quite small and you may remember that they both felt the same. Unless you refreshen your experience (take basic mice and try them out side by side), you can't say them being same.
I've used Corsair mice in my years and for desktop movement, i'm using 3000 DPI. With that DPI value, i can only move my wrist around a bit, to reach edges of the screen, without the need to move my entire hand. Of course, with that high DPI value, you need to be very precise with your wrist movement.
For minute accuracy, i have a dedicated button on my mice, that drops the DPI way down to 400. I quite often need to use it.
Oh, i also have dedicated buttons to change the DPI profiles of my mouse. Currently having 1500, 3000 and 6000 DPI profiles on my mice, while 3000 DPI is my daily driver. Other profiles are helpful when certain applications have DPI issues and my default 3000 DPI is either too fast or too slow. Though, i can calibrate my mice DPI by increments of 1, from the range of 100 to 18000.
Thank you on your comprehensive post. It seems that the only explanation of that difference is that DPI scale by some manufacturers (let´s say gaming mice) is rather off, whereas cheaper models have their real DPI. If we add some subjective feeling on top of that we get that great difference.
I see you use Corsair mouse. When I was deciding which mouse to purchase to replace my HP X220 gaming mouse one in the pool was Corsair Katar Pro XT. However I ended up with Razer DeathAdder Essential while I got some good offer and gave it a shot.
It looks similar to my previous mice: Corsair Sabre RGB (specs). Used the Sabre RGB for few years, but it developed fundamental fault, double-clicking left button despite clicking once. Did RMA it and replacement Sabre RGB developed exact same fault after about same amount of time had elapsed (~1 year). On top of that, my missus also had Sabre RGB and that too developed the exact same fault. So, ditched the Sabre RGB all together and after extensive research, ended up with Nightsword RGB.
As of why i use Corsair mice in general, well, i'm stuck in Corsair iCUE ecosystem. It all started when i bought my mechanical KB: Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches. It has the Corsair iCUE software to control it. So, figured that i'd also get other Corsair peripherals, so that i don't have loads of different software bloating my system, instead, having one software to "rule them all". 😆
Nowadays, i have:
KB: Corsair Strafe RGB (soon to be replaced with Corsair K100 RGB with OPX switches)
Mouse: Corsair Nightsword RGB
Mouse pad: Corsair MM800 RGB Polaris
Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB USB (soon to be replaced with Corsair Void RGB Elite USB)
Headset stand: Corsair ST100 RGB
My missus has essentially the same set, except her KB is Strafe RGB Mk.II, headset is the new Void RGB Elite USB and she doesn't have the MM800 Polaris mouse pad. But she has the same mice and headset stand as i do. Oh, she also has the Void RGB Elite Wireless headset (white color) and Dark Core RGB PRO SE wireless mice to use with her laptop. I, personally, don't like wireless peripherals and laptops. My desktop PC is more than enough for me.
Razer mice (all Razer peripherals in that matter) are plagued by software issues and hardware reliability. So, i keep myself away from Razer. Cheap price with unicorn puke (catchy looks) isn't something that appeals to me.
For example; your Razer mice is rated for 10 million clicks, while my Nightsword RGB is rated for 50 million clicks. That's 5x times difference in reliability. (My old mice, Sabre RGB, is rated for 20 million clicks. Double of yours.) So... yeah, i'd rather pay more for reliable product than less for unreliable one.
As of why i use Corsair mice in general, well, i'm stuck in Corsair iCUE ecosystem. It all started when i bought my mechanical KB: Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches. It has the Corsair iCUE software to control it. So, figured that i'd also get other Corsair peripherals, so that i don't have loads of different software bloating my system, instead, having one software to "rule them all". 😆
I was about to ask you why did you stay on Corsair product line when you experienced problems with couple of Sabre mice, but you answered me already. You are deep into their ecosystem.
Honestly I have never tried any of their products other than PSU and RAM. So far I was satisfied with performance and quality of those components that I used.
Razer mice (all Razer peripherals in that matter) are plagued by software issues and hardware reliability. So, i keep myself away from Razer. Cheap price with unicorn puke (catchy looks) isn't something that appeals to me.
Well I was already posting something about gaming mice, in fact I have Logitech G203 LIGHTSYNC, a brand new one, I kinda keep it as a backup mouse, and this Razer DA Essential got for realtive good price and I am using it now.
To be honest I have never had many chances to try different popular gaming mice. I used to have some (or try) HP, Speedlink, Roccat, Revoltec, budget models.
Right now I own Logitech K120 keyboard (you probably know already that it´s not a gaming one) but it serves me relatively well. Would you suggest me to purchase a new one or to continue to use this one? I don´t need any particular customization keys. I was checking some reviews lately on different gaming keyboards under 100 €, but I am really in dilemma do I actually need a new one with this one still functioning.
This is actually difficult to answer. 🤔 Especially since choosing a KB is personal choice, based on your own feel and taste of KBs.
But i can describe my experience from membrane KB to mechanical KB and why i did it. So, you can read it and draw your own conclusions if to switch over to mechanical KB or not.
For decade or two, i used membrane PS/2 KB. No different than your current Logitech unit. And for the most of the times, my PS/2 KB was enough for me. Though, due to the nature of membrane switches, it has drawbacks. Namely:
* poor key rollover (meaning if pressing several keys at once, KB stops responding, since KB doesn't know anymore which of the keys you pressed)
* no backlighting (at daytime, no issue, but at night time, very hard to see where they keys are)
* keycap wear (meaning that the lettering wore off after years of usage, making it hard to tell which letter key is which)
* membrane switch (mushy feeling when typing, which gets worse as membrane gets older)
So, with all the drawbacks of my cheap membrane PS/2 KB, i decided to step into mechanical KB scene and buy myself a proper, high-end mechanical KB.
1st step was figuring out which key switch type to get. Since with membrane, there's only one type: membrane. But with mechanical key switch, there are several. Decided to get Cherry MX switches, but in Cherry MX lineup, there are several as well, like: Blue, Red, Brown, Black, Silver, Silent, RGB.
Cherry MX lineup: https://www.cherrymx.de/en/blog/cherry-mx-switches-at-a-glance.html
On paper, Cherry MX Brown sounded nice, since it has tactile bump to register key press. So, went out to PC hardware store and tried the display units with different key switch types in person, to see how they actually feel. I found out that i didn't like MX Brown at all. MX Black was way too hard to press (my fingers tired fast), MX Blue has this annoying clicking sound. MX Red felt the best for me. Nice linear feel with relatively light force needed to press the key down.
With switch type found, i started another research regarding which Cherry MX Red switched KB to get. Looked far and wide and then saw that Corsair had just come out with their brand new deal with Cherry MX, offering new switch type, known as Cherry MX Silent.
Since i also liked my new KB to be silent (i'm often awake at night and having quiet KB is good, so that others can sleep), i then did more research what these new Cherry MX Silent switches are. Turned out that MX Silent is just like MX Red, but with different internal design to make them far quieter than MX Red. While other aspects remained the same, like linear travel path and same actuation force of 45g.
So, with that, i decided to buy the Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches. Another option would've been Corsair Strafe (non-RGB) but it only had red color as backlight and i figured that i get fed up with only one color as backlight. So, decided to get the RGB variant, so that i have free reign regarding KB backlight colors.
And so, in March of 2017, i bought my very 1st mechanical KB.
Price tag was premium: €177.90. 😒
For quite a while, i felt like i overspent on my new KB, especially since my old membrane PS/2 KB costed ~€10. 😆 Still, as time moved onwards and i learned to use my new KB fully, namely learning the Corsair iCUE software and how to get most out of my KB, the price tag made more and more sense.
The pros of my mechanical KB:
* N-key rollover (meaning no matter how many keys i press down, they all register)
* per key backlight (where i can set individual colors for individual keys, if i so desire)
* switchable keycaps (lettering on keycaps isn't printed on, instead, lettering is made of see-through plastic, whereby none of the lettering ever wears off. Also, i can take off keycaps easily and replace them with others, if i like)
* mechanical switch (nice smooth key presses, also quiet due to the MX Silent switches)
* software macros (explanation below)
* detachable wrist rest
To show removable keycaps. Pic was made when i was cleaning my KB. It is easy to remove keycaps, so that i can clean the space between/under keycaps.
My old membrane PS/2 KB (top), next to my new mechanical KB (bottom).
I still have my old PS/2 KB around, since i need it to access the BIOS of my Haswell build (missus'es PC). For some reason, USB KB doesn't work during POST, but PS/2 KB does.
My current setup. Pic is a bit old, made when i still had Sabre RGB mouse and old printer. Now i have new mouse and printer. But the main idea is to show the WASD keycaps that i've replaced. Original keycaps are smooth, but Corsair also provides a set of more rough feeling keycaps for gamers. Since i also game sometimes, i've replaced my WASD keycaps.
Lighting macro (explanation below)
Software macros
Since my mechanical KB can be controlled by Corsair iCUE software, it opens up a huge load of customization. Backlight customization, key rebind, macros, RGB sync between Corsair peripherals etc.
The great thing about software macros is, that i can create dedicated macro, which i can link to specific application (e.g game) and whenever i launch this application, the macro is automatically loaded, with all the customization i made for that specific macro profile.
For example; i usually use rainbow wave as my lighting effect on my KB and other peripherals. Nice to look at when browsing the web or idling around. But when gaming, the rainbow effect is somewhat annoying (draws the attention away). So, i've created several macros for many games i play. Above is the image of Snowrunner macro and the lightning effect of my KB, whenever Snowrunner game is running. A nice blue/white theme, where the keys that i use in-game, are lit as blue.
Of course, lighting macro is just one small part of macro profile. In another game, there is issue where in-game, i can not rebind keys and toolbelt is binded to numbers 1-8. Now, i can't reach 6-8 on my left hand when my fingers are on WASD keys. Also, game is First Person Shooter and in the heat of the battle, i don't have time to relocate my had, to access items under 6-8 keys. So, i created another macro for my KB, whereby i rebinded the keys. Meaning that while in-game and when i press e.g V it acts as i pressed 6. Or when i press X, it acts as i pressed 7. Pressing Tab acts as i pressed 8. Far more convenient than being stuck with what game devs have provided us (no key rebinds). Best part in all of this is, that i don't have to rebind my keys every time i start/end the game. Since it's in macro, the macro automatically starts/stops whenever i launch/quit the game.
Only downside is setting up the initial macro profile, since it's quite a bit of work. But the convenience it gives in the long run is far greater. Since i also have other Corsair peripherals, the macro profiles i create apply to all peripherals. E.g if i so desire, i can make custom equalizer profile for my headset for specific game (thus far, i haven't bothered since my custom equalizer profile i created is good enough for me) or rebind the buttons on my mouse, to be game specific.
Most people look at mechanical KBs and are put off by their steep price. Sure, €177.90 for my 1st mechanical KB was steep and my new mechanical KB, Corsair K100 RGB with OPX switches costed me €316.60. 😱 But it's not only the price tag to be considered. Instead, consider what the KB can offer you. In my opinion, the strong part of Corsair mechanical KBs is the macro profiles one can create within iCUE software. Sure, it is difficult to learn, on how to use it, but once you've gotten the idea on how to work with, it gives you the ultimate customization and personalization options there is.
Now, why would i buy myself a new, €300+ KB, when i already have my Strafe RGB KB that i'm happy with?
Well, i can only blame myself and my negligence. A year ago, i accidentally spilled a glass of sweet drink onto my table, where some of it dripped to my KB. Did my best to clean it but G key sustained some liquid damage and was sticky for some time. In time, stickyness went away but about a month ago, G key started to have key press registration issues, until the G key stopped working completely.
But how come? We can see you using G just fine, in all over the text typed thus far.
Well, yeah, in my default KB macro, i rebinded the G key to another key (the one between Right Shift and Z). So, now, whenever i type, i have to use my left pinky finger to get the G letter to appear (and it's annoying).
So, decided to buy a new KB. In ideal world, the same Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches, but at current date, that KB is EOL. So, looked if i can get my hands on Corsair Strafe RGB Mk.II, that my missus has, but that too is EOL. 😒 Looked what was available currently and decided to go with K100 RGB.
Sure, it's the flagship of Corsair KBs (also the most expensive one), but it has the new OPX switches the Corsair has developed. OPX switches have the same linear travel path and same actuation force of 45g as my Cherry MX Silent switches are, but actuation distance is half (1mm vs 2mm) and bottom out distance is also reduced (3.2mm vs 4mm). Ontop of that, OPX has 3x times the reliability of Cherry MX switches (150 million vs 50 million key presses).
Corsair's info on OPX: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/s/keyswitches
With that, i'm quite interested in these new Optical-Mechanical key switches. Though, i don't know how it would feel, compared to my current MX Silent switches. I do have my K100 RGB next to me, but i haven't had time to install it, yet.
This was my saga with my KBs.
As for you, i suggest that you 1st find out which mechanical switch type is to your likening. Go out and try display models in a PC store. After you've found the key switch that you like, then look around which KBs have that particular swith type. Of couse, Cherry MX isn't the only mechanical switch family, there are others, many others, like: Gateron, Kalih, Omron, Roccart, Otemu, SteelSeries, Razer. Even Logitech has their own mechanical switch lineup. Cherry MX is the oldest/biggest/most well known key switch manufacturer.
To see all other mechanical switch types, expand the Switch Type filter in pcpp,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/keyboard/#k=1
There are so many different mechanical switch types that it's crazy how many there are.
This is actually difficult to answer. 🤔 Especially since choosing a KB is personal choice, based on your own feel and taste of KBs.
But i can describe my experience from membrane KB to mechanical KB and why i did it. So, you can read it and draw your own conclusions if to switch over to mechanical KB or not.
For decade or two, i used membrane PS/2 KB. No different than your current Logitech unit. And for the most of the times, my PS/2 KB was enough for me. Though, due to the nature of membrane switches, it has drawbacks. Namely:
* poor key rollover (meaning if pressing several keys at once, KB stops responding, since KB doesn't know anymore which of the keys you pressed)
* no backlighting (at daytime, no issue, but at night time, very hard to see where they keys are)
* keycap wear (meaning that the lettering wore off after years of usage, making it hard to tell which letter key is which)
* membrane switch (mushy feeling when typing, which gets worse as membrane gets older)
So, with all the drawbacks of my cheap membrane PS/2 KB, i decided to step into mechanical KB scene and buy myself a proper, high-end mechanical KB.
1st step was figuring out which key switch type to get. Since with membrane, there's only one type: membrane. But with mechanical key switch, there are several. Decided to get Cherry MX switches, but in Cherry MX lineup, there are several as well, like: Blue, Red, Brown, Black, Silver, Silent, RGB.
Cherry MX lineup: https://www.cherrymx.de/en/blog/cherry-mx-switches-at-a-glance.html
On paper, Cherry MX Brown sounded nice, since it has tactile bump to register key press. So, went out to PC hardware store and tried the display units with different key switch types in person, to see how they actually feel. I found out that i didn't like MX Brown at all. MX Black was way too hard to press (my fingers tired fast), MX Blue has this annoying clicking sound. MX Red felt the best for me. Nice linear feel with relatively light force needed to press the key down.
With switch type found, i started another research regarding which Cherry MX Red switched KB to get. Looked far and wide and then saw that Corsair had just come out with their brand new deal with Cherry MX, offering new switch type, known as Cherry MX Silent.
Since i also liked my new KB to be silent (i'm often awake at night and having quiet KB is good, so that others can sleep), i then did more research what these new Cherry MX Silent switches are. Turned out that MX Silent is just like MX Red, but with different internal design to make them far quieter than MX Red. While other aspects remained the same, like linear travel path and same actuation force of 45g.
So, with that, i decided to buy the Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches. Another option would've been Corsair Strafe (non-RGB) but it only had red color as backlight and i figured that i get fed up with only one color as backlight. So, decided to get the RGB variant, so that i have free reign regarding KB backlight colors.
And so, in March of 2017, i bought my very 1st mechanical KB.
Price tag was premium: €177.90. 😒
For quite a while, i felt like i overspent on my new KB, especially since my old membrane PS/2 KB costed ~€10. 😆 Still, as time moved onwards and i learned to use my new KB fully, namely learning the Corsair iCUE software and how to get most out of my KB, the price tag made more and more sense.
The pros of my mechanical KB:
* N-key rollover (meaning no matter how many keys i press down, they all register)
* per key backlight (where i can set individual colors for individual keys, if i so desire)
* switchable keycaps (lettering on keycaps isn't printed on, instead, lettering is made of see-through plastic, whereby none of the lettering ever wears off. Also, i can take off keycaps easily and replace them with others, if i like)
* mechanical switch (nice smooth key presses, also quiet due to the MX Silent switches)
* software macros (explanation below)
* detachable wrist rest
To show removable keycaps. Pic was made when i was cleaning my KB. It is easy to remove keycaps, so that i can clean the space between/under keycaps.
My old membrane PS/2 KB (top), next to my new mechanical KB (bottom).
I still have my old PS/2 KB around, since i need it to access the BIOS of my Haswell build (missus'es PC). For some reason, USB KB doesn't work during POST, but PS/2 KB does.
My current setup. Pic is a bit old, made when i still had Sabre RGB mouse and old printer. Now i have new mouse and printer. But the main idea is to show the WASD keycaps that i've replaced. Original keycaps are smooth, but Corsair also provides a set of more rough feeling keycaps for gamers. Since i also game sometimes, i've replaced my WASD keycaps.
Lighting macro (explanation below)
Software macros
Since my mechanical KB can be controlled by Corsair iCUE software, it opens up a huge load of customization. Backlight customization, key rebind, macros, RGB sync between Corsair peripherals etc.
The great thing about software macros is, that i can create dedicated macro, which i can link to specific application (e.g game) and whenever i launch this application, the macro is automatically loaded, with all the customization i made for that specific macro profile.
For example; i usually use rainbow wave as my lighting effect on my KB and other peripherals. Nice to look at when browsing the web or idling around. But when gaming, the rainbow effect is somewhat annoying (draws the attention away). So, i've created several macros for many games i play. Above is the image of Snowrunner macro and the lightning effect of my KB, whenever Snowrunner game is running. A nice blue/white theme, where the keys that i use in-game, are lit as blue.
Of course, lighting macro is just one small part of macro profile. In another game, there is issue where in-game, i can not rebind keys and toolbelt is binded to numbers 1-8. Now, i can't reach 6-8 on my left hand when my fingers are on WASD keys. Also, game is First Person Shooter and in the heat of the battle, i don't have time to relocate my had, to access items under 6-8 keys. So, i created another macro for my KB, whereby i rebinded the keys. Meaning that while in-game and when i press e.g V it acts as i pressed 6. Or when i press X, it acts as i pressed 7. Pressing Tab acts as i pressed 8. Far more convenient than being stuck with what game devs have provided us (no key rebinds). Best part in all of this is, that i don't have to rebind my keys every time i start/end the game. Since it's in macro, the macro automatically starts/stops whenever i launch/quit the game.
Only downside is setting up the initial macro profile, since it's quite a bit of work. But the convenience it gives in the long run is far greater. Since i also have other Corsair peripherals, the macro profiles i create apply to all peripherals. E.g if i so desire, i can make custom equalizer profile for my headset for specific game (thus far, i haven't bothered since my custom equalizer profile i created is good enough for me) or rebind the buttons on my mouse, to be game specific.
Most people look at mechanical KBs and are put off by their steep price. Sure, €177.90 for my 1st mechanical KB was steep and my new mechanical KB, Corsair K100 RGB with OPX switches costed me €316.60. 😱 But it's not only the price tag to be considered. Instead, consider what the KB can offer you. In my opinion, the strong part of Corsair mechanical KBs is the macro profiles one can create within iCUE software. Sure, it is difficult to learn, on how to use it, but once you've gotten the idea on how to work with, it gives you the ultimate customization and personalization options there is.
Now, why would i buy myself a new, €300+ KB, when i already have my Strafe RGB KB that i'm happy with?
Well, i can only blame myself and my negligence. A year ago, i accidentally spilled a glass of sweet drink onto my table, where some of it dripped to my KB. Did my best to clean it but G key sustained some liquid damage and was sticky for some time. In time, stickyness went away but about a month ago, G key started to have key press registration issues, until the G key stopped working completely.
But how come? We can see you using G just fine, in all over the text typed thus far.
Well, yeah, in my default KB macro, i rebinded the G key to another key (the one between Right Shift and Z). So, now, whenever i type, i have to use my left pinky finger to get the G letter to appear (and it's annoying).
So, decided to buy a new KB. In ideal world, the same Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches, but at current date, that KB is EOL. So, looked if i can get my hands on Corsair Strafe RGB Mk.II, that my missus has, but that too is EOL. 😒 Looked what was available currently and decided to go with K100 RGB.
Sure, it's the flagship of Corsair KBs (also the most expensive one), but it has the new OPX switches the Corsair has developed. OPX switches have the same linear travel path and same actuation force of 45g as my Cherry MX Silent switches are, but actuation distance is half (1mm vs 2mm) and bottom out distance is also reduced (3.2mm vs 4mm). Ontop of that, OPX has 3x times the reliability of Cherry MX switches (150 million vs 50 million key presses).
Corsair's info on OPX: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/s/keyswitches
With that, i'm quite interested in these new Optical-Mechanical key switches. Though, i don't know how it would feel, compared to my current MX Silent switches. I do have my K100 RGB next to me, but i haven't had time to install it, yet.
This was my saga with my KBs.
As for you, i suggest that you 1st find out which mechanical switch type is to your likening. Go out and try display models in a PC store. After you've found the key switch that you like, then look around which KBs have that particular swith type. Of couse, Cherry MX isn't the only mechanical switch family, there are others, many others, like: Gateron, Kalih, Omron, Roccart, Otemu, SteelSeries, Razer. Even Logitech has their own mechanical switch lineup. Cherry MX is the oldest/biggest/most well known key switch manufacturer.
To see all other mechanical switch types, expand the Switch Type filter in pcpp,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/keyboard/#k=1
There are so many different mechanical switch types that it's crazy how many there are.
Thank you for your comprehensive post and time you invested in it. It helps me, though I was already getting some basic infos lately, because mechanical keyboard world was really terra incognita for me til then. I guess it will take some time for me to decide which mechanical keyboard to purchase. Anyhow I am unwilling to invest much money in that right now, and I am asking myself do I need a mechanical keyboard at all. More or less it is what you pay is what you get with minimal deviation.
That web site where you can search for a KB with precise filtering is very good. Before we even started with this topic I was a bit interested in Redragon K582 Surara KB, it´s not so expensive and maybe a good choice for start.
As for the switches, I would probably go for something that it´s not so loud and hasn´t much resistance while typing. On the other side it wouldn´t be so nice to have mouse and keyboard from different manufacturers (two apps running in the same time).
As for the switches, I would probably go for something that it´s not so loud and hasn´t much resistance while typing. On the other side it wouldn´t be so nice to have mouse and keyboard from different manufacturers (two apps running in the same time).
Though, that Redragon seems to have Brown switch type, which is tactile. Unless you haven't used tactile switch before, i don't suggest getting it. Better try the switch type out beforehand.
And there are other testers too. Just search amazon.
As for actuation force, i suggest looking at 45g. Since these switches are easy to press.
Heck, sometimes, when i rest my finger on the key, it registers without me knowing, just by the weight of my finger. 😆 (It usually happens in diving games, e.g Snowrunner, where i drive straight but suddenly truck turns right, since i had my finger resting on D key. )
Though, overall, when coming from membrane KB to mechanical one, the mechanical KB doesn't have to be exact fit for you. Especially since you don't even know what you would prefer. Also, people can adjust and learn to be comfortable with new things. This is what i'm planning to do with my new K100 KB. I'm sure it's different from my current KB but i'm willing to adjust to it. Also, my new KB isn't that radically different from my current one, whereby i'd struggle to adjust to my new KB.
It all started when i bought my mechanical KB: Corsair Strafe RGB with Cherry MX Silent switches. It has the Corsair iCUE software to control it. So, figured that i'd also get other Corsair peripherals, so that i don't have loads of different software bloating my system, instead, having one software to "rule them all". 
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