Build Advice Re-use old PC case, PSU and fan to build a new PC ?

[peterng70]

Budget Range: affordable
System Usage : full stack software development. No games.
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: amazon.ca, newegg.ca
Location: Canada
Additional Comments:
This is my first pc build.
I am looking for a Ryzen 8500G, no dedicated GPU, no WiFi, no RGB system.
Can I re-use the PC case, power supply and fan from an old Acer prebuilt to build a new PC?
The case is 17x14x7 inches ( https://photos.app.goo.gl/P69GLsXSgD4kgfGCA ).
The old motherboard size is 9.6 × 8.9 in.
Will a 9.6-in x 9.6-in motherboard fit the old case?

The old case does not have a USB-C port, what is an affordable USB-C cable / adaptor as a workaround?
If the old case cannot be re-used, please suggest an affordable, easy to setup case for MicroATX motherboard.
If I cannot reuse the 180W PSU please suggest an affordable one.
Please also suggest affordable fans.

 

[Lafong]

Don't know how old that Acer is.

The older, the less likely it is to reuse the case.

A 180 watt PSU is virtually useless today. Even more so if old.

Regardless of age, pre-built PCs are notorious for being poor upgrade candidates.

I'd think for 200 or less Canadian, you could get a tolerable new case and power supply. The 8500G isn't power hungry as I recall.

Not sure what "affordable" means to you. 200 may be a very big deal?

 

[albertkao]

Don't know how old that Acer is.

The older, the less likely it is to reuse the case.

A 180 watt PSU is virtually useless today. Even more so if old.

Regardless of age, pre-built PCs are notorious for being poor upgrade candidates.

I'd think for 200 or less Canadian, you could get a tolerable new case and power supply. The 8500G isn't power hungry as I recall.

Not sure what "affordable" means to you. 200 may be a very big deal?

Would you mind suggesting link for a tolerable new case, power supply and fans?

 

[Moonstick2]

From the Vista sticker and the processor (Athlon 5200), that PC is more than 15 years old. The PSU wouldn't have even been good at the time, and as for the case, never mind USB-C as you won't even have USB 3.

For your purposes the PC is junk. You could probably eBay the (working?) processor/motherboard/RAM as people do buy vintage tech for retro PC builds. HDD just destroy or erase and bin/sell, depending on what's on it.

This is whole new PC time, so what have you bought or obtained already if anything? That could influence case and PSU recommendations. What monitor do you have? If it's as old as the PC you should be budgeting for a replacement really.

With a system as basic as you're wanting to build, any new case is going to work no matter how cheap. For example, you could go as cheap as possible at 35 CAD, or up your budget to 45 CAD. Except on the $45 case it has no 5.25" bay and you might need that, or you might hate the look so you might consider spending 55 CAD on a decent make. Or it might be you think 80 - 100 CAD is affordable which gives you far more options. But it might be that you haven't budgeted for RAM or a new SSD...

Case and PSU are the last pieces of the puzzle, not the first. You also need to be more specific with terms such as "affordable" and "tolerable" as they're so relative.

 

[geofelt]

To answer your question, you (could) reuse the case.
The psu is 180W and the tdp of your processor is modest at 65W.
FSP is a major maker of power supplies, but it is unknown how long it will last.
The case has room for a 5.25" bay where you can front mount a USB C device.
Cpu cooling is not great, but it does not need much.

I would not go that way.
Particularly if your livelihood depends on the pc.
One of the joys of a new build is a nice, new case.
Buy only a quality psu. Think 7 years warranty or better.

 

[Eximo]

They don't really make high quality small PSUs that much any more. Can probably still get them, but you would have to shop around on less reputable places.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 8500G 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.00 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-P Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: Cooler Master Q300L V2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($59.99 @ Memory Express)
Power Supply: Corsair RM650 (2023) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($116.96 @ shopRBC)
Total: $725.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-11-14 10:32 EST-0500

 

[Moonstick2]

The psu is 180W and the tdp of your processor is modest at 65W.

I really don't think the OP could use the PSU if they tried. Even a basic AM5 microATX has an 8-pin +12V CPU connector, and that PSU only has a 4-pin. Maybe the motherboard won't complain, but it's a 15+ year old basic PSU for a 15+ year old basic pre-build PC. I wouldn't even take the risk, personally.

 

[geofelt]

I really don't think the OP could use the PSU if they tried. Even a basic AM5 microATX has an 8-pin +12V CPU connector, and that PSU only has a 4-pin. Maybe the motherboard won't complain, but it's a 15+ year old basic PSU for a 15+ year old basic pre-build PC. I wouldn't even take the risk, personally.

Good point.

 

[albertkao]

Thank you very much for your comments!
I just start to learn about pc build.
I am not more specific with terms such as "affordable" because I do not know.
I like to reduce the cost as much as possible by reusing the old PC case, power supply and fan if possible.
I am still at the research or learning stage.
I have not bought anything yet.
I like to thank Eximo's ca.pcpartpicker.com list!!!
It gave me a completely new system.
Thank you for your patience and understanding, I still like to reduce the cost.
It seems the old case may be reused, what is an affordable USB-C cable / adaptor as a workaround?
Because 8500G consumes relatively little power, can a smaller and more affordable power supply be used?

 

[Moonstick2]

Okay, so you don't have any parts yet at all. It would help if you could be clearer on the type of work that you'll be using this for. It's very helpful to know that you won't ever be using this for games for instance as that has a big effect on what can be suggested, but "full stack software development" is quite vague. Often that requires lots of cores and RAM, but you've been using a two-core CPU with 3 GB RAM. Even a very cheap system is going to be a huge step up. If you're just starting out in learning development you don't need the kind of rig a professional would.

If you're going to be running what is basically an office machine, I would say a $50-$60 400 W PSU like this from EVGA (generally a decent brand) would be fine.

It might be that for what you'll be doing, 16GB is fine for the time being so you can save money there. In the same way, without games you're unlikely to need a 1 TB drive and would find 500 GB fine.

Yes, you can reuse that case if you must, but as said you won't have any front USB 3. What do you need USB-C for? Does it need to be at the front or can it be at the back? You might be okay with a cheap $20 riser card, but if you need front access you might end up paying $30 - $60 for something to sit in a bay and you're barely saving much at all by not buying a new case.

What monitor do you have? And what version of Windows? Do you have the licence number for your Windows? Given you've got a pre-build there, there's a chance it's an OEM licence that can't be moved and you may need to buy a copy of Windows. Probably best to see if you can use the licence on your new system first, but have the money set aside just in case.

 

[Misgar]

The old case does not have a USB-C port, what is an affordable USB-C cable / adaptor as a workaround?

Some modern motherboards come with a special USB connector (marked 'USB3.1C Gen2 A-key Header') in the image below. If you look carefully, you can see the more common (much larger) USB3.0 connector to the left of the smaller "USB-C" header (outlined in red).

https://linkup.one/20-pin-a-key-male-to-usb-c-port-female-pci-mount-adapter-40cm/

I like the (rather expensive) Graugear front panel 3.5in adapter, but cheaper alternatives can be found on Amazon, eBay, etc. You plug the two USB leads into the two USB ports on the motherboard (assuming you've bought a compatible motherboard).

https://www.amazon.de/GRAUGEAR-Front-Panel-USB-Type-C®-PC-Frontblende-G-MP01/dp/B09QXF1TDS

please suggest an affordable, easy to setup case for MicroATX motherboard

From a brief look at your photographs, the ancient PSU appears to be "standard" size and you should be able to fit a modern ATX PSU up to 750W rating in its place. If you need a more powerful PSU of 850W or higher, please note these PSUs tend to be longer and might not fit comfortably. As a check, measure the existing PSU (length, width, height) and compare with the dimensions of a new PSU.

As others have said, get a new PSU.

Your old case looks like it can accept an mATX motherboard. Remove your existing motherboard and check the chassis for tapped holes (possibly M3, 6-32 or 4-40) that conform to the mATX mounting pattern. Some motherboards may have fewer mounting holes than others.

https://voltcave.com/matx-in-atx/

It's normally possible to unscrew any hexagonal pillars in the wrong locations on the chassis and fit them in the correct holes for an mATX board.

Do NOT leave any metal pillars where there are no matching holes in the mATX board. You'll cause a short circuit and probably destroy the new motherboard.

If the old case cannot be re-used

I regularly build PCs in old cases. My latest 7950X is housed in a Lian Li PC-S80 case dating back to 2006. I have many other cases of this vintage.

Provided everything fits in the old case, i.e. new PSU and new motherboard, you don't necessarily need to buy a new case.

 

[albertkao]

1. I am learning full stack software development - Angular & Java Spring. Operating System: Linux only. Two monitors: 4K (3840 x 2160) at 60Hz at the same time.
USB-C is optional. I like to backup some photos from my phone to computer disk occasionally. It can be at the back.
USB-C workaround may be:
https://www.amazon.ca/LINKUP-Motherboard-Extension-Internal-Connector/dp/B07THC8ZVF?th=1
$34.96
Is there a cheaper alternative?

2. If the motherboard mounting holes do not line up, what is a workaround?
Is stick on motherboard mount a workaround, something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/PATIKIL-Adhes...7cc-9b53-cb22d05ecca4&pd_rd_i=B0C7QNGHMT&th=1

If yes, which height is good?
Support Height: 4.8mm/0.19inch Total Height: 14mm/0.55inch or
Support Height: 6.3mm/0.25inch Total Height: 15mm/0.59inch or
...
Support Height: 15.8mm/0.62inch Total Height: 25mm/0.98inch .

3. 400W Power Supply:

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Warranty-Power-Supply-100-N1-0400-L1/dp/B00LV8TZAG?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.abpzjwjSAfAXdlzaSuanqC9z78BmB26lpzVYUYaW2FqlacbxMlGYDb07OAa0oycyJdFkmdAANU5Yi2qebvQueyn1uN1m_vd7FlUvaS87-3GFZTlVtzZ7y5HXmkRjljbF5sWe4A95rczodqOqN_L4OIfceWIyOh88XbwC8w0E5KHvmipFkoLzCJucMkiruGNt8rfkMGXPFFbvZGgx7_dYV4Z4hQf4Qe9csYyPB3lY6_iU-45KBAfPJS7z1SrrM3TpGTNeWBSdwZpQkFH63hS-lgAXq9F0JpnGNYXsE9fZdWU.D5-cppH7Nvn9SQcd-GEpjJr8cdoPVxkEytziCRjjty8&dib_tag=se&keywords=EVGA&qid=1731729285&refinements=p_36:-5200&rnid=12035759011&sr=8-3&th=1

 

[Misgar]

If the motherboard mounting holes do not line up, what is a workaround?

On a standard case, the holes should line up.

Is stick on motherboard mount a workaround, something like this?

Yes.

3. 400W Power Supply:

I'd steer clear of that PSU for a modern build. The red voltage selector switch on the rear panel is indicative that it might not support active power factor correction and is of a very old design.

 

[albertkao]

On a standard case, the holes should line up.


Yes.


I'd steer clear of that PSU for a modern build. The red voltage selector switch on the rear panel is indicative that it might not support active power factor correction and is of a very old design.

Which height for the stick on motherboard mount is good?
Support Height: 4.8mm/0.19inch Total Height: 14mm/0.55inch or
Support Height: 6.3mm/0.25inch Total Height: 15mm/0.59inch or
...
Support Height: 15.8mm/0.62inch Total Height: 25mm/0.98inch .

What is an alternative for 400W or less Power Supply?

 

[Misgar]

Which height for the stick on motherboard mount is good?

Only way to be 100% certain is to remove the motherboard and measure the height of the existing stand offs. You might be pleasantly surprised to find at least 6 stand offs under the motherboard. No point buying plastic mounts if you already have what you need. If you really want to buy them, try the 6.3mm version.

What is an alternative for 400W or less Power Supply?

Standard ATX PSUs these days tend to start around 500W, so you may have difficulty finding one with a rating of 400W or lower. Old PCs with low power graphics did not require much power. Modern graphics cards and high end CPUs can require more power.

It doesn't matter if your new PC uses 50W or 250W, you can still fit a 500W+ PSU. The computer only uses the power it needs. Fitting a 650W PSU for a 50W PC will not give good efficiency, but specialist low power (sub 400W) PSUs may be more expensive than standard slightly higher power 500W+ units.

I usually buy Corsair PSUs from Amazon, because they are in stock where I live. Seasonic is another good brand.

I bought a cheap and cheerful CX550 to replace a 12-year old? unbranded PSU in an old build. The CX550 is disappointingly lightweight, hardly any power leads for SATA drives. Short warranty. Not recommended for your main PC. Corsair CX and CV are low end PSUs for unimportant builds, where price is the most important criterium.
https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Bronze-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0CQMQY2V2?crid=3N7MFUZ8021SD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GucKPLU9o5lGKSddwFUwjR5L7SB_m9fhUKJb9xh6dSoHnXphxeyAPitpnjoeN7rQOc5WDHIoNj_SG0tlQ45D6XyZ-79ZXAOj7U0610kqs-cSzEafCWm3tKv_x_6LL-cNc865jr79qgGVkEYwu5FvlHK5h4wC9hxcW8awB7L_AQkEu_ZlwXOLHzcXEQPpgmVPLq_q1dSCi5c70dv9QYcoC5HArK8mt6S3wMeV_w3rXI4bheaCJfkutfoOxbSqXvzIw0-PRcOCMdkpfdgZrxQDna_0nYZBr6uSaCm8eC_7AP8.RPgTMU4m0xsQ3q9P8JTYuI8ok52WpN2FltyPsBcu8e4&dib_tag=se&keywords=corsair+atx+psu+cx550&qid=1731843356&sprefix=corsair+atx+psu+cx550,aps,136&sr=8-1

I'm much happier with the RM650 for basic systems. Heavier build, better quality design, good number of power cables for SATA, GPU, ATX12V, etc. RM series are mid-range (from my perspective) and have a longer warranty than CX/CV.
https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-RM650-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0CQN16G8Z?crid=1LZVMM96E769D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zGxQYsnTzBTUFVejTMnFIaCzNxzJIjX1izgUNI5-qkNKlOk-YEWOlOi1iO7mF4gdUJ3S3RxCiZrMRbdVKLgEBzVQqwI3fl8fZgfJ1N7K98Eu5GFO2o5jf6yqUIKnxFRjtgFTljp28XOoBo6iUcs65CTmcjl04rydoWAEiUpeTQueJr0pdZ9yt62sAropijvj0Q6_ap40A7H8VjUF83bYZDaJ8kTpoNgVg0CrIFatggH3eEJG6ALuNSlLN_jPp52IE75Pq53UFGQv5mWb2edBE-Mu57Tf9RJuy0V5guLTHYY.ng5Y5v-l9zbrA1Ceg3h2EqARYRbJUrRSJRMC2drPwkY&dib_tag=se&keywords=corsair+atx+psu+RM650&qid=1731843050&sprefix=corsair+atx+psu+rm650,aps,178&sr=8-1

For larger builds with more hard disks or mid-range GPU cards, I buy RM750 and RM850 PSUs. I don't always need the extra power, but for server builds with 8 hard disks, I need loads of SATA cables which are provided by these more powerful PSUs. 750W to 1000W power supplies are more suitable for larger high-power GPU cards.

You'll find advice saying don't "cheap out" on the PSU because it's the most important part of the computer.

If your finances dictate buying a low cost unit, at least buy from a recognised manufacturer. Do not buy any $20 bargain basement PSU from a foreign web site. It could kill your PC the first time you switch on.

Whatever PSU you choose, check for reviews on Tom's and other web sites before buying.

 

[Moonstick2]

1. I am learning full stack software development - Angular & Java Spring. Operating System: Linux only. Two monitors: 4K (3840 x 2160) at 60Hz at the same time.
USB-C is optional. I like to backup some photos from my phone to computer disk occasionally. It can be at the back.

OS isn't an issue then, but running two 4K monitors is quite significant. A lot of the cheaper motherboards have only one video output (usually HDMI). Even for those with two, you need to check with the manufacturer or supplier that the board is capable of delivering 2x 4K 60 Hz at the same time as, even though the processor is capable of it, cheaper motherboards can sometimes have weird quirks in terms of what they support through which port.

If you get a motherboard with dual video outputs, you'll probably find that it has USB-C on the back already, e.g. some of the value motherboards here for example. (I know it's a UK site, but by way of example.) That solves your USB-C issue and saves you money overall.

I repeat, confirm with the the motherboard manufacturer that the board you intend to buy will drive two monitors at 4K 60 Hz at the same time.

You may still run into issues with Linux mind, but that's a bridge to be crossed later.