Repainting Arcade Cabinet

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I am restoring a Tron cabinet and have bought all the appropriate
graphics and overlays. Once I get all the artwork off, I plan to
repaint the cabinet. A few questions.

The orignal color is black. What kind of paint (brand, type etc.) will
best replicate the original look>? Gloss is too shiny. I have seen
semi gloss and semi flat... not sure which to go with.

Also, picked up a Wagner Power Painter Home to do the painting. Hoping
that will do the job.

If you have experience doing this sort of thing, I'd love to hear from
you.

Thanks!
JOHN
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

i uesd a roller to paint my galaga cab, and get a high quality roller
too dont buy the cheap roller to paint with.

but it was not super smooth so i lightly sanded it with some very very
fine sand paper and then repainted it with a 3" brush and it turned out
great.

and before i painted it with rust oleum satin black, I sanded it to
the plywood so the wood was super smooth and then primed it with killz
oil (oil cause the rustoloum is enamel oil based paint).

and waited 2 days to dry and then i applied the side and kick plate
art.

frank
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I forgot, I also wet sanded the cab after painting with 800 grit. Works
great.
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

before you open that power painter, take it back. It won't work, a roller
will be better.

You are on the right track though, spraying is superior but do it with air
compressors and guns. Powerpainters just spit paint.

For tron, I tend to use a couple nice heavy coats of Rust Oleum Satin black.
it dries semi-shiny.. then you can finish it off with a semi gloss
polyurethane to get a really nice match to the original finish.

Good Luck!
/b

http://www.tutankham.com

"Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote in message
news:1114394783.027733.51010@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>I am restoring a Tron cabinet and have bought all the appropriate
> graphics and overlays. Once I get all the artwork off, I plan to
> repaint the cabinet. A few questions.
>
> The orignal color is black. What kind of paint (brand, type etc.) will
> best replicate the original look>? Gloss is too shiny. I have seen
> semi gloss and semi flat... not sure which to go with.
>
> Also, picked up a Wagner Power Painter Home to do the painting. Hoping
> that will do the job.
>
> If you have experience doing this sort of thing, I'd love to hear from
> you.
>
> Thanks!
> JOHN
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Do not use that power painter and I say that from experience. Use a roller
if you can't get a professional sprayer.

"Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote in message
news:1114394783.027733.51010@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>I am restoring a Tron cabinet and have bought all the appropriate
> graphics and overlays. Once I get all the artwork off, I plan to
> repaint the cabinet. A few questions.
>
> The orignal color is black. What kind of paint (brand, type etc.) will
> best replicate the original look>? Gloss is too shiny. I have seen
> semi gloss and semi flat... not sure which to go with.
>
> Also, picked up a Wagner Power Painter Home to do the painting. Hoping
> that will do the job.
>
> If you have experience doing this sort of thing, I'd love to hear from
> you.
>
> Thanks!
> JOHN
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I have never looked into it. It's a long shot but you might want to find
painters in your phone book and ask them how much to paint it. I use a high
quailty smooth finish roller and my cabs always look great.........

"Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote in message
news:1114396529.909184.86480@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> what do better pro sprayers run? best brands?
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Get a standard duty gun at your local home improvement store.. they work
fine.

I put together this page long ago, but it should still help you a bit:
http://www.tutankham.com/painting.htm

/b

"Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote in message
news:1114396529.909184.86480@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> what do better pro sprayers run? best brands?
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I'm confused... are ou guys using spray enamel or latex paints? I
thought rustoleus was spray but if so then why would you use a roller?
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Rustoleum comes in spray cans and also normal paint cans.
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Use Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black spray paint. Lay the cabinet down flat and
put on several heavy coats. It'll come out perfect and toy don't need to buy
a spray gun.

-r-



"prOk" <bsonej@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:YjYae.10894$716.7966@tornado.tampabay.rr.com...
> before you open that power painter, take it back. It won't work, a roller
> will be better.
>
> You are on the right track though, spraying is superior but do it with air
> compressors and guns. Powerpainters just spit paint.
>
> For tron, I tend to use a couple nice heavy coats of Rust Oleum Satin
> black. it dries semi-shiny.. then you can finish it off with a semi gloss
> polyurethane to get a really nice match to the original finish.
>
> Good Luck!
> /b
>
> http://www.tutankham.com
>
> "Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote in message
> news:1114394783.027733.51010@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>>I am restoring a Tron cabinet and have bought all the appropriate
>> graphics and overlays. Once I get all the artwork off, I plan to
>> repaint the cabinet. A few questions.
>>
>> The orignal color is black. What kind of paint (brand, type etc.) will
>> best replicate the original look>? Gloss is too shiny. I have seen
>> semi gloss and semi flat... not sure which to go with.
>>
>> Also, picked up a Wagner Power Painter Home to do the painting. Hoping
>> that will do the job.
>>
>> If you have experience doing this sort of thing, I'd love to hear from
>> you.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> JOHN
>>
>
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Levelbest wrote:
> Rustoleum comes in spray cans and also normal paint cans.

Levelbest,

Wet sanding will remove all impurities including air bubbles, dust
nibs, overspray etc. Put on heavy coats, let it dry and then start a
sand'in away. start with 800 grit then go to 1200. you can only get 800
and up at an auto parts house, like checker auto.
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Hey B:

Thanks for getting back to me. I guess my email isn't making it thru
the filters.

I found the 800 and 1200 finally online at amazon. I think they source
thru an auto parts store. Highest Home Depot had was 600 grit and they
looked at me funny when i started asking for 800 or 1200 grit (why
would you need that?).

Enjoy the tron artwork you won. I shipped it out today. Small World
isn't it!
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Yeah, given the option, I probably would spray, but I don't currently
have a compressor or sprayer and don't have a real workshop (per se)
that I can afford to get spray paint all over. Working out of my
garage which has a ton of other stuff in it (bikes, workbench,
cabinets, christmas lights, lawnmower etc etc) and I fear if I did do
the spray route, the whole place would be an ungodly mess! Maybe I am
wrong. If I could, I'd probably take it to a body shop and have them
do it, but the thought of getting tron back into the minivan doesn't
sound appealing... nor does what they would probably charge me. Ben
has me pretty convinced that the roller route with wet sanding could
look darn good.

Where have you all done your spray jobs?

Also, it's tough to justify the cost since I am just doing one cabinet
(cough, cough... I am sure you have heard that one before).
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I know for starters that Brian has been telling anyone and everyone to
spray their cabinet till he's blue in the face. I followed his advice
and the cabinets have always turned out great. Although I haven't yet
used an oil based paint, I've stuck with a water based Latex. Now on
the back side of the cabinet's I'll use a roller as appearance isn't
as crucial. If you need a really smooth surface you really should
spray if you have a compressor and the option is open to you.

On 9 May 2005 15:14:06 -0700, "Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote:

>Hey B:
>
>Thanks for getting back to me. I guess my email isn't making it thru
>the filters.
>
>I found the 800 and 1200 finally online at amazon. I think they source
>thru an auto parts store. Highest Home Depot had was 600 grit and they
>looked at me funny when i started asking for 800 or 1200 grit (why
>would you need that?).
>
>Enjoy the tron artwork you won. I shipped it out today. Small World
>isn't it!
>

Kineplex Systems of Lima, Ohio
http://www.kineplex.com
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Other problem is, the pollen is terrible right now. I'd probably have
to wait 3 more months before I could wheel it out without getting
yellow dust all over it. My cars are a mess right now! Can't keep em
clean. I have on the other hand been seriously cosidering getting a
staple gun. Attaching molding etc would definately go easier. Such
as the kickplate. On my tron, I think the original started coming
off... which the owners put screws thru... then later 10 penny nails to
hold it in place! The nails must have been 3-4 inches long!
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

If it's an entire cabinet, I'll normally wheel it outside on a good
dry windless day. If it's parts, I'll take a couple saw horses out
into the yard and paint them individually outside. Sure the grass is
a wierd color for a few weeks, but then it gets mowed. But your
right, it will get on everything if you paint indoors. I've found my
compressor invaluable as I can use it for painting as well as a staple
gun to replace wood parts like old beaten up front panels or dragon
lair marquees that had gotten sawed off. I actually think I've used
it more for panel replacement than painting. But I've also used it
for sandblasting metal parts as well. It comes in handy for just
about any project.
There is one project I think I would use a roller on, a Berzerk
project where the exterior is purposely bubbled/crinkled.


On 9 May 2005 20:12:47 -0700, "Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote:

>Yeah, given the option, I probably would spray, but I don't currently
>have a compressor or sprayer and don't have a real workshop (per se)
>that I can afford to get spray paint all over. Working out of my
>garage which has a ton of other stuff in it (bikes, workbench,
>cabinets, christmas lights, lawnmower etc etc) and I fear if I did do
>the spray route, the whole place would be an ungodly mess! Maybe I am
>wrong. If I could, I'd probably take it to a body shop and have them
>do it, but the thought of getting tron back into the minivan doesn't
>sound appealing... nor does what they would probably charge me. Ben
>has me pretty convinced that the roller route with wet sanding could
>look darn good.
>
>Where have you all done your spray jobs?
>
>Also, it's tough to justify the cost since I am just doing one cabinet
>(cough, cough... I am sure you have heard that one before).
>

Kineplex Systems of Lima, Ohio
http://www.kineplex.com
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

What do I have to do to convince everyone that wet sanding after
rolling on paint will produce an orginal appearance if not better.
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

OK here's some better pics including some satan's hollow that was done
since black is not the easiest to capture close up! believe me or not,
up to You.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture020.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/Picture010.jpg

Ben
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Thanks for the photos Ben.... it does look pretty darn smooth.

As far as wet sanding something with 5-10 coats of paint on there, I
can't imagine doing any damage at all, unless you do something silly
like let the water sit on there for an extended period of time. My dad
when refinishing wood desks used to wet sand all the time and it always
came out like glass. I would imagine Ben isn't steering us wrong and
it's a viable alternative to spraying (esp. for those of us who simply
can't do the spray job!).
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Yes the Tron molding definitely was secured originally with staples.
As for pollen. Don't know, never ran into that problem before. With
my Stargate project I wasn't real concerned about it being super
smooth so I used a 3/16" pile roller. For Asteroids I ended up using
spray, but later found that it looks like the Asteroids sideart covers
the entire side so I'm a little divided if that was a waste of time.
For a Tron, man that is like super smooth. I don't think rolling will
work at all for the look of originality. It'll end up looking funny
IMHO.

On 10 May 2005 08:29:37 -0700, "Levelbest" <john@mousehut.com> wrote:

>Other problem is, the pollen is terrible right now. I'd probably have
>to wait 3 more months before I could wheel it out without getting
>yellow dust all over it. My cars are a mess right now! Can't keep em
>clean. I have on the other hand been seriously cosidering getting a
>staple gun. Attaching molding etc would definately go easier. Such
>as the kickplate. On my tron, I think the original started coming
>off... which the owners put screws thru... then later 10 penny nails to
>hold it in place! The nails must have been 3-4 inches long!
>

Kineplex Systems of Lima, Ohio
http://www.kineplex.com
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I'd love to see close up pictures at an angle of the finish..

Personally, water is the last thing I want near my cabs after they are
painted but I'm willing to try anything. My methods are pretty well
documented and quite a few people have tried them, i'd love to see photos of
your method as well. I've tried a good many things to paint cabs, but
nothing has ever come *close* to what a good spray gun can do so far. Of
course, everyones idea of what is acceptable is different.

/b

http://www.tutankham.com

<bboldt3@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115763510.350955.93300@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> What do I have to do to convince everyone that wet sanding after
> rolling on paint will produce an orginal appearance if not better.
>
 
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

not the best photo in the world, but based on gloss alone (can't tell
texture from the pic 🙁 I'd still say spraying is better.

/b


<bboldt3@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115768658.367936.299310@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> hows this people:
>
> now lets see whose smoother!
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bboldt3/Pacman%20Cabaret/26eb8288.jpg
>
> If any one needs more photos, let me know
>
> Ben
>