[SOLVED] Replacing Air Cooler with AIO (first timer)

justinj

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My Cryorig R1 Ultimate is running hot (low 80's degrees Celsius under load), and it's time to get a new cooler. I already tried reorienting, repasting, dusting, lower profile RAM, etc. Computer is not overclocked and all setting are fine. I've never had an AIO before but would that drop my temps? Hoping to get one of the best AIO for lowering temperature if it can fit in my current rig.

Can you please suggest a very good AIO that fits? Any important advice for someone new to AIO?

Here are my specs:

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - R1 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card
Case: NZXT - Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Thank you.
 
there's no AIO to my knowledge that would significantly improve temps over a R1 Ultimate. are you feeding your CPU crazy voltages in an overclock`?
what are you GPU temps?

imho AIOs are a nice optical gimmick but hardly worth it compared to either custom loops or big, high end aircoolers.

your temps seem high (without knowing which kind of load you're running) but I'm not convinved an AIO will really help. 280mm will be the max your case supports.
 
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justinj

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It’s not overclocked and I get 80ish degrees under load. Haven’t checked gpu temps but I think everything is ok there. At this point I’m wondering if my cooler is just bad. I also have two extra case fans vs stock. although the 2nd top case fan is too small (120mm vs 140mm I think). Something is not working right and I’m at a loss. I will eventually OC the CPU as I did before.

If you were me and you wanted better temps would you:
  1. Replace the r1 ultimate with another air cooler
  2. Buy a new case
  3. ?
 
It’s not overclocked and I get 80ish degrees under load. Haven’t checked gpu temps but I think everything is ok there. At this point I’m wondering if my cooler is just bad. I also have two extra case fans vs stock. although the 2nd top case fan is too small (120mm vs 140mm I think). Something is not working right and I’m at a loss. I will eventually OC the CPU as I did before.

If you were me and you wanted better temps would you:
  1. Replace the r1 ultimate with another air cooler
  2. Buy a new case
  3. ?

If you could please explaing exactly whats under load for you?
  • Gaming: What game and how long do you play to reach those temps?
  • Working: What kind of software you use, how long till you reach that temp?
  • Stress test-Which one?, How do you run it (which options)?
2. If you really wana know the temps while gaming the best way for this (for me) is to use 1 of two apps:
-MSI afterbruner 4.6.2: brings an OSD on your screen that can show CPU and GPU "temp" among many others stats: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/msi-afterburner-beta-download.html - how to use it:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVnOhzunv6M

-HWinfo portable 64 bits (https://www.hwinfo.com/download/), "Sensors Only" options -> RUN. This will show you small windows on your screen where you have 5 columns: Sensor, Current, Min, Max and Avg and lots of info for your mobo, cpu, gpu, ssd, hdd. The important thing is that you open this hwinfo, and then launch the game and play, while you play hwinfo will keep track of your max temps for CPU and GPU. When youre done playing you just need to go back to hwinfo and check the "Max" column to see how high the temps values are.

Keep in mind that the Geforce GTX 1080Ti is a very hot GPU too, so when you play a game it will drop a lot of heat inside your case so the air will be warmer. Besides the 2 rear fans, Do you have atleast 2 intake fans in the front?

Note: When using a monitoring sofwatre (hwinfo, msi afterburner, hwmonitor, core temp, etc. Use only 1 at the time, if you keep more than two open it could mess up your readngs!!!)

Cheers!
 

Karadjgne

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I own a Cryorig R1 Ultimate. On an i7-3770K at 4.6GHz. Gaming gets 55°C and Prime95 small fft gets 70°C.

Used to have a nzxt Kraken X61, 280mm aio that got exactly the same temps, but at 4.9GHz.

The kicker is my OC currently pushes @ 150w, and used to push just over 200w. The difference, the coolers capacity. The Cryorig R1 is a 250w+ cooler, the x61 is a 350w+ cooler, so wattage output is equitable, cooler vrs OC.

At stock settings, the i7-8700k has an output of 90w ish at full load. Your cooler isn't the issue as long as there's some airflow, even with a single center fan it's still more than capable of keeping temps well under control.

You say settings are fine, dusted, repasted, but I'm doubting that's entirely the case, there's probably settings out of whack.
 

Mezoxin

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Sommething is definitely not right
I think your fans arent kicking in , can you take a screenshot of the cpu fan rpm during idle and load , its further uo the list in HW monitor
+ why is your cpu reaching 126w when its not overclocked ? take a screenshot of vcore during load with cpu-z
 
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Karadjgne

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Vid over 1.48v consistently when under heavy load is high. Vid is the voltage the cpu demands the VRM's supply, regardless of what's actually used (vcore).

You are hitting 4.7GHz on all cores. With turbo enabled you should only be hitting 4.7GHz on 1 core and dropping off on successive cores. (4.7, 4.6, 4.5, 4.5, 4.4, 4.3).
Looks like locked core OC to me. Would explain the 126w max.

I'd suggest you return to bios and hit F5 to load factory optimized default values, turn on xmp, save and then see where testing gets you in comparison to what's already posted.
 
Maybe you apply some of the Auto-Turbo/OC modes in BIOS (this is like pre-factory overcloking modes some motherboards comes with, on which your CPU is overclocked with one click).

Perhaps doing what Karadjgne told you by restoring the default/optimized BIOS settings (F5) can fix the problem.

After that you just need to save BIOS, load windows and try gaming, if temp problem is solve, go back to BIOS and look for the option to set the XMP profile of your RAM.
 

justinj

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Ok thank you all for the responses. Here are most of the answers I think.

  • I have 2 more fans vs. stock. I have one extra top fan (120mm when it should be 140mm) and i have 2 front case fans.
  • I reset the bios to default and am seeing no difference (see pictures)
  • I have the side panel open but have not tried blowing air in. That is next on my list I guess.
  • Under load for me is big battles in Borderlands 3. As I said, 30 degrees when idle.
  • No idea what you mean about 126V and the four cores not being at 4.7 MHz.
  • All fans are spinning as they should (both cooler fans and all the rest of them too.
  • FYI - I also bought a blower from amazon versus using compressed air. Maybe if I blast the hell out of the cooler radiator things it will get more dust out.
View: https://imgur.com/a/iqx2rWQ

View: https://imgur.com/a/5DAsEFa

View: https://imgur.com/a/OvyexUq


View: https://imgur.com/a/peoVwKG
 
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rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
You're still doing everything BUT addressing the case airflow question.

Airflow / Fan / Cooling / Overheating - How to test, steps to resolve

This could be caused by a few different things, please don't automatically assume 'the cooler is not working' without also checking if the case airflow is sufficient.

Remove the side panel of the PC case. Orient a house fan (desk or box style fan) to blow air into the case, directly over components at the highest setting.

This will represent a case with the best possible airflow possible. For reference, the fans I am providing as examples would look like the items below (just to clarify for anyone who might want reference)

nI6vx5v.jpg
2GBempv.jpg


Re-test as you have normally done - play games, run benchmarks, etc. to get to where temperatures were normally seen to be higher than they should. Normal room temperature is usually between 20-24C or 68-75F. Please note that every air or liquid cooler operates as a product of delta-T over ambient, meaning that if the PC is operational (simply turned on), it is impossible for the CPU to display a temperature below ambient room temperatures. If it is, this is likely a bug in software temperature reporting either from the desktop UI or the BIOS reading it incorrectly.

With the fan running at full speed, if temperatures drop by 5-7C or more, case airflow is one major issue to contend with. You will need additional fans or better fans for your setup in order to optimize air in and out of the chassis. This might even require consideration for a new PC case or leaving the side panel partially open during sessions of heavier computing until these items are corrected.

If your temperatures remain relatively the same (difference less than 1-2C), then you likely have an issue with the cooler in question (if CPU is hot, CPU cooler, if GPU is hot, GPU cooler). It would be good to then approach the next steps by thoroughly cleaning the cooler with compressed or canned air and ensuring there are not large blockages in cooling fins or on fans, etc. This might require the cooling fans to be removed from the heatsink or radiator to ensure there is not a buildup of pet hair, dust or even carpet fibers which can trap additional debris. Please ensure the PC is turned off and unplugged during this process to prevent unwanted startup to keep fingers safe from fan blades or accidental shorting if you happen to drop a screw onto other components during fan removal.

Removal of the cooler and re-application of thermal paste & re-seating the cooler can also be beneficial once cleaning of the cooler is ruled out by retesting the steps above.
 

justinj

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So, in the last hwmonitor picture you posted the 12 cores usage at around 6%~48%. Your CPU seems to be at idle or really light load and temps for all cores are around 49°C ~ 51°C.

Now tell me, How is it posible that a CPU thats Not Overcloked, has all 6 Cores clocks pegged at 4713MHz?

Im not saying youre overclocking on porpuse, but maybe Extreme Tweaker -> Asus Ai Overclok Tuner is set to something diferent than Default/Normal...

... Or, if you don't see the Advanced BIOS page, and you are on the "simple bios view" I think is called EZ-Mode, there should be an option called "Performance/Ai Overclock" and you must set that one to "Standard or Normal"

Cheers!
 

justinj

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Yes, I think it's an airflow problem. I have two front fans but the bottom one is mostly blocked by the 7200RPM hard drive. Bad case design? There are three exhaust fans, two top and one out the back. Anyway, so recommendations for a new case with better airflow and future potential for AIO? Would also like to make sure I understand any extra fans I need. I'm just going to do a heart transplant to a new case, install new fans, and see what that does.

Rodrox, I have no idea what you're talking about. My idle temps are consistently 30 degrees. The bios is vanilla and just recently reset, which only turned off XMP and the fan settings that I posted. I triple-checked the bios again after reading your post and confirmed what I just said. The setting is on auto.
 

justinj

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wow, thank you for finally figuring this out. Apparently Asus stock bios have an issue with K processors (https://www.abxzone.com/mce-explained-on-the-asus-z370-motherboards-t123341.html ). MCE is enabled by default!?!?!?

So I think I might need to flash the bios since I'm using version 0408. Going to see if that helps, but I understand that the cores are supposed to run at different frequencies now (4.7, 4.6, 4.5, ...).
 
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