[SOLVED] ripped the wires off the pcie gpu cable

Issue Games

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Jul 26, 2015
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So I was taking the Pcie GPU cable from my PSU since its modular and the cables ripped off of the pcie(white) connector. Heres a picture:
IMG-20210624-184526.jpg



IMG-20210624-184543.jpg


Direct links to images:
https://ibb.co/w69M8tJ


So any idea how to repair this until I can get some new proper cables.
PS: The PSU is Coolermaster v1000
 
Solution
The PSU is cooler master V1000. But since I bought it used, and had not much knowledge regarding it, I guess the cables aren't original(now that u mentioned it so I searched for the original ones) . Idk if it's possible to buy original cable kit for this psu

Yeah.. you got scammed. LOL!

Buy yourself the CORRECT cable kit for that PSU.

It's an older PSU, though. So finding cables may be hard. I see that CableMod even discontinued their CM kits.

Maybe it's time to get a PSU that was made within the last decade?
So I was taking the Pcie GPU cable from my PSU since its modular and the cables ripped off of the pcie(white) connector. Heres a picture:
IMG-20210624-184526.jpg



IMG-20210624-184543.jpg


Direct links to images:
https://ibb.co/w69M8tJ


So any idea how to repair this until I can get some new proper cables.
PS: The PSU is Coolermaster v1000
If that's all I had to work with....
There is a spring loaded tab that holds the terminals in the connector.
I push those in to remove the terminals.
I would solder the terminals back on and reinsert.
There is a tool for popping the tab...but I can generally find a little tool that will work.
 

RealBeast

Titan
Moderator
Agreed, easy repair --- just be more careful than when you removed the cable by pulling on the wires. You can pinch out the metal pins with something like a small needle nose plyer or hemostat. But be GENTLE, only pinch the base toward the back end enough to push it out.

And insure that you place the three black ground wires on the clip side and three 12V yellow wires on the side opposite the retention clip as shown in pictures HERE.
 

Issue Games

Honorable
Jul 26, 2015
55
0
10,540
If that's all I had to work with....
There is a spring loaded tab that holds the terminals in the connector.
I push those in to remove the terminals.
I would solder the terminals back on and reinsert.
There is a tool for popping the tab...but I can generally find a little tool that will work.
I cant see a sprint load tab. I tried to push the pin toward the back from both the front side and back side but, wasnt able to get it out.
Agreed, easy repair --- just be more careful than when you removed the cable by pulling on the wires. You can pinch out the metal pins with something like a small needle nose plyer or hemostat. But be GENTLE, only pinch the base toward the back end enough to push it out.

And insure that you place the three black ground wires on the clip side and three 12V yellow wires on the side opposite the retention clip as shown in pictures HERE.
I used a needle but pins seem really steady and strong in place. Is there a video that can help me? I searched but wasnt able to find one.
What somewhat strikes me about this is....I would think you would have to pull VERY HARD to do that.
Actually no, my old case was pretty bad and small with little room for psu and no headroom for the connectors behind the psu so this connector was pretty cramped up and the wires were loose as well so it came out easily.
 

Issue Games

Honorable
Jul 26, 2015
55
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10,540
And insure that you place the three black ground wires on the clip side and three 12V yellow wires on the side opposite the retention clip as shown in pictures HERE.
Thanks for the tip. One more question tho. Do orientation matter? Like which yellow wire should go in pin 1 and which in pin 2 etc? same for black wires.
Or all the yellow wires are identical and orientation dont matter?
 

RealBeast

Titan
Moderator
Thanks for the tip. One more question tho. Do orientation matter? Like which yellow wire should go in pin 1 and which in pin 2 etc? same for black wires.
Or all the yellow wires are identical and orientation dont matter?
No as long as all the black are on the clip side and all the yellow on the no clip side. Consider each yellow equivalent to one another, same with each black (ground).

edit: feel free to use force to get the pins out from the plastic connector, they often take a pretty hard push/pull. And if you can get your hands on a long hemostat or similar tool, they work great for pinching motherboard clips in hard to reach places.
 
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I cant see a sprint load tab. I tried to push the pin toward the back from both the front side and back side but, wasnt able to get it out.

I used a needle but pins seem really steady and strong in place. Is there a video that can help me? I searched but wasnt able to find one.

Actually no, my old case was pretty bad and small with little room for psu and no headroom for the connectors behind the psu so this connector was pretty cramped up and the wires were loose as well so it came out easily.
If they pulled out easily they weren't done right to begin with.

"I cant see a sprint load tab. I tried to push the pin toward the back from both the front side and back side but, wasnt able to get it out. "

In every connector I have worked on that looks like that...there is a tab.
They are generally called Molex connectors.
The tab may be very hard to locate....which is why they have a special tool.

However it's possible those may be different....but they don't look different.
...and I wouldn't be surprised if you can't see the tab.
 

Issue Games

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Jul 26, 2015
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No as long as all the black are on the clip side and all the yellow on the no clip side. Consider each yellow equivalent to one another, same with each black (ground).

edit: feel free to use force to get the pins out from the plastic connector, they often take a pretty hard push/pull. And if you can get your hands on a long hemostat or similar tool, they work great for pinching motherboard clips in hard to reach places.
well, i tried inserting two staple pins on each side but it goes in on one side of the pin and not the other. This method works on the connector that goes inside gpu only weird idk why, im currently clueless
 

RealBeast

Titan
Moderator
I don't think that pins or needles will do the job and you may get injured. You usually need to apply a fair amount of force in addition to pinching (and/or twisting) the pins, so a small needle nose pliers or hemostat. If you don't have the needed tools and you cannot borrow them, it may be best just to wait for a replacement.
 
It's not the easiest thing to do without the tool...and if you find yourself damaging the plastic...it's probably best to stop....but it can be done because I've had to do it without a tool many times.

....and I just did one using a very small blade screwdriver...pushed each tab in...and it came right out.
 
ah yes, I can see that wing shaped thingy, but i am unable to insert 2 small staple pins on each side(can only insert 1), so i doubt a hemostat will get in tho..
If you push the tabs in enough....they stay in.
I push one in.... far enough so it doesn't pop back out.
then I push the other one in....with a tiny slot screwdriver.

When I go to reinstall....I bend them back out.
 
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DSzymborski

Titan
Moderator
Is no one else here the least bit concerned that the PSU looks to be a very cheap, low end unit?

Certainly a concern. I hadn't read this thread before and this certainly doesn't look like any connector on a Cooler Master V series PSU that I remember. I have zero recollection of one with white connectors or PCIE connections that weren't 6+2. Really wondering what PSU we're actually dealing with here.
 
Certainly a concern. I hadn't read this thread before and this certainly doesn't look like any connector on a Cooler Master V series PSU that I remember. I have zero recollection of one with white connectors or PCIE connections that weren't 6+2. Really wondering what PSU we're actually dealing with here.

Because the PSU is not a Cooler Master V1000. Even a V1000 from 10 years ago has all black wires and black connectors.
 

Issue Games

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Jul 26, 2015
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Because the PSU is not a Cooler Master V1000. Even a V1000 from 10 years ago has all black wires and black connectors.
The PSU is cooler master V1000. But since I bought it used, and had not much knowledge regarding it, I guess the cables aren't original(now that u mentioned it so I searched for the original ones) . Idk if it's possible to buy original cable kit for this psu
 
The PSU is cooler master V1000. But since I bought it used, and had not much knowledge regarding it, I guess the cables aren't original(now that u mentioned it so I searched for the original ones) . Idk if it's possible to buy original cable kit for this psu

Yeah.. you got scammed. LOL!

Buy yourself the CORRECT cable kit for that PSU.

It's an older PSU, though. So finding cables may be hard. I see that CableMod even discontinued their CM kits.

Maybe it's time to get a PSU that was made within the last decade?
 
Solution

Issue Games

Honorable
Jul 26, 2015
55
0
10,540
Yeah.. you got scammed. LOL!

Buy yourself the CORRECT cable kit for that PSU.

It's an older PSU, though. So finding cables may be hard. I see that CableMod even discontinued their CM kits.

Maybe it's time to get a PSU that was made within the last decade?
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll probably try to get a new PSU when I get some budget. I dont have any GPU atm so i guess im fine for now