RTX 2080 ti with i7 7700k - Low FPS on Black Ops 4/Blackout

jochs20

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Mar 6, 2017
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I'm only getting between 60-100 FPS 1080p on Black Ops 4 Blackout. Even with the settings lowered I struggle to reach 144fps.

Motherboard: ASUS Z170A
CPU: i7 7700k 4.2 GHZ
Graphics Card: RTX 2080 ti
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series DDR4 2400 16GB (2x8)
PSU: 850w
 
At only 1080p you do get very CPU limited on a lot of modern games, even with an i9 9900k overclocked to 5.2GHz you wouldn't necessarily get full usage out of a 2080Ti at that resolution. It looks like you haven't overclocked your CPU, I would suggest doing so, that will help a bit, but you may not get a perfect 144FPS even with an overclock.
 
HWmonitor is useless. Worse than useless in some cases. HWmonitor OFTEN fails to accurately identify a variety of sensors. HWinfo almost always does, as does Core Temp. This applies equally to GPU sensor data as well as CPU and motherboard sensors.

Click the spoiler for more detailed information on that.

HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. Always select the "Sensors only" option when running HWinfo.

In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 version 26.6 or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.

*Download HWinfo


For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:

*Download Core Temp

"IF" temperature issues are relevant to your problem, especially if this is a build that has been running for a year or more, taking care of the basics first might save everybody involved a lot of time and frustration.

Check the CPU fan heatsink for dust accumulation and blow or clean out as necessary. Avoid using a vacuum if possible as vacuums are known to create static electricity that can, in some cases, zap small components.

Other areas that may benefit from a cleaning include fans, power supply internals, storage and optical drives, the motherboard surfaces and RAM. Keeping the inside of your rig clean is a high priority and should be done on a regular basis using 90 psi or lower compressed air from a compressor or compressed canned air.

Use common sense based on what PSU your compressor is set to. Don't "blast" your motherboard or hardware to pieces. Start from an adequate distance until you can judge what is enough to just get the job done. When using canned air use only short blasts moving from place to place frequently to avoid "frosting" components.
 
Hw monitor isn’t useless. For my system and other systems I’ve built it has been accurate for temperatures, core clock, and utilization. I only ran into problems with older chipsets (ex. An older dell 755 chipset)
 
For the record, I've seen it be off plenty of times. It's a tool to be used, but with a grain of salt.

You bought a $1300 card to play games at 1080p? Seems like a waste of money, but it's yours. You realize not every game can achieve 144fps? Each game engine is unique and has a sort of frame rate cap. Some games like CSGO will hit over 300fps, others will barely hit 100 WITH A 2080TI.
 


I'm going to get a different monitor at some point.

 


Make that HUNDREDS of times, if not more, for me. It is well documented as well. Regardless that it works in SOME cases, it is largely inaccurate for a variety of old AND new systems and chipsets. It is not nearly as well supported nor kept up to date anywhere near as well as HWinfo and Core Temp. Plain truth, it sucks.
 


Plus, some games are not optimized well OR the drivers are not optimized well. Different driver versions or doing a clean install of the drivers using the DDU can sometimes make a huge difference.
 


Yeah, that's a great PSU. If that is fairly new then it's pretty doubtful that is contributing to your issues at all. Possible, but unlikely.

I think it is a lot more likely that the card itself is the problem, as the 2000 series cards are under serious scrutiny right now for problems and poor performance from a lot of people. People that do this for a living.

See these as just a SMALL sample of that fact.

https://www.hardocp.com/news/2018/11/15/rtx_2080_ti_gpus_go_missing_at_aibs/

https://www.hardocp.com/news/2018/11/14/evga_2080_ti_xc_catches_fire_in_spectacular_fashion/

https://www.hardocp.com/news/2018/11/14/moment_your_rtx_2080_ti_fe_fails/

https://www.hardocp.com/news/2018/11/17/nvidia_rtx_2080_ti_failures_gamers_nexus_rules_out_thermals_firmware_windows/

I've been seeing a real trend of a lack of performance on ALL 2000 series cards, and it's somewhat hit or miss, in relation to the performance of the 1000 series cards. This is pretty clear both here on this site and on a variety of other sites as well.



 
I updated my bios and ran the driver uninstaller. Definitely a massive improvement. I'm not getting the framerate drops I was getting before. Still not getting consistent 144fps, but I guess that's normal.
 
Hey, at this point any improvement is welcome I'd imagine.

If it has been a long time since you've done a clean install of Windows, that is something you might think about doing in the near future as well. The 1809 build has resolved a few issues for some users and it could not hurt to also make sure you have the latest audio, chipset, storage controller and network adapter drivers according to your motherboard product page as well.
 

True latency is only faster in the worst case scenario where there is no pipelining. Since requests are usually pipelined, clock speed wins when the latency difference is small. 3600 C16 is faster than 3200 C14.