[SOLVED] RTX 3060 Ti - No signal, no fans spinning

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nicolo.casieri

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Hello everyone, today I've encountered a strange issue (at least I think); I've upgrade my PC with a Zotac RTX 3060 Ti twin edge OC edition LHR (brand new, not used). I plugged the 6+2 PCIE connector provided in my modular PSU, connected in the PCIE 3.0 slot...PC won't turn on, not a single fan spinning. Put the old GPU back (Gigabyte GTX 1060 6GB) and everything works. My PC specs are:

OS
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
RAM
16,00GB
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. PRIME B450M-A (AM4) 38 °C
Graphics
27GL650F (1920x1080@144Hz)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (Gigabyte) 32 °C
Hard drive
232GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (SATA (SSD)) 29 °C
465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-001CA0 (SATA ) 26 °C
465GB Maxtor STM3500418AS (SATA ) 26 °C
953GB Sabrent (Sconosciuto (SSD))
Audio
NVIDIA High Definition Audio

My PSU is very new, bought it 2 weeks ago, it's a sharkoon silent storm cool zero 80 plus gold 850W.
I checked various forums and web pages,I'm pretty sure a 3060 ti should be compatible with my mobo, and I'm pretty sure PSU is more than enough. I have two different 8GB RAM: same brand (kingston hyperx) but different that are slightly different in mhz, but as far as I know that couldn't be the problem.

Thanks in advance for anybody who would spend some time to help me!
 
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Solution
Last update: everything works with my new PSU (Corsair RM850X).
For future reference: when mounting a new GPU, if your PC doesn't POST and/or the motherboard LEDs say it's a CPU fail, make sure the PSU is working and don't buy Sharkoon. Stick to the reliable brands (be Quiet!, Cooler Master, Corsair, Seasonic).

peace out 🆒

nicolo.casieri

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Wasn't until now, just updated. I've also disabled CSM and did a CMOS reset, just to be sure. Nothing has changed. I did notice the GPU need some strength to be allocated in the PCI-E slot, and that the metal thingy at the end of the gpu is longer than the GTX 1060 one. Picture for reference:
RTX ZOTAC
 

nicolo.casieri

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Update: I've bought a MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS; PCIE 4.0 should have retro-compatibility, bu still...I really don't know what else could be the problem. Will let you know if this new mobo solves it.
 

nicolo.casieri

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On your old mobo, remove one memory stick and try again (be sure to check the motherboard manual to know which ram slot to populate when its only 1 stick installed).

Tried this, sadly nothing has changed. What I find particularly strange is that not a single fan (cpu, case, gpu) starts spinning when I turn on the PC.
 

nicolo.casieri

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I see, Are you 100% positive the card is fully inserted on the slot?
I think so; I hear the PCI-E slot's click quite clearly, but at this point I'm not sure about anything! My case is a Mid-Tower Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-DELTA...should be enough to fit everything, right? I mean, the 1060 fit perfectly, and the 3060 ti isn't any bigger than that.
 

nicolo.casieri

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So, I've re-assembled everything with my new MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS...one hell of a mobo; I'll keep it even though it's clearly not the culprit here. This mobo has fault LEDs: with the GTX 1060, everything works...when I mount the RTX 3060 TI, the CPU LED lights up. Why though? I really don't understand what kind of compatibility issue could arise between a Ryzen 7 3700X and a ZOTAC RTX 3060 Ti Twin Edge OC LHR.
 

boju

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Are you using riser cable by any chance? I don't know what's up with your old motherboard but since now circumstances have changed and if are using riser cable, these are often pcie3 only and can cause no display issues with pcie4 card / pcie4 slot if not configured to pcie3 instead of on auto.
 
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So, I've re-assembled everything with my new MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS...one hell of a mobo; I'll keep it even though it's clearly not the culprit here. This mobo has fault LEDs: with the GTX 1060, everything works...when I mount the RTX 3060 TI, the CPU LED lights up. Why though? I really don't understand what kind of compatibility issue could arise between a Ryzen 7 3700X and a ZOTAC RTX 3060 Ti Twin Edge OC LHR.

Besides what boju wrote, I would try:

Put the GTX 1060 back in and get into the BIOS. Press go to Settings, Advanced and look for the option to set PCIe port Gen (options should be Auto, Gen1, Gen2, Gen3 and Gen4) set it to Auto if its not. (Page 48 and 49 if I'm not mistaken: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C37v2.2.pdf)

After that press F10 (Save + Exit) the PC will restart. Upon restart (still usnig the GTX 1060) get into the BIOS again and check that the option still on Auto.

What I would do next is turn off the PC, turn off the PSU switch, and then press the power button a few times and keep it down for at least 30 seconds to drain any leftover energy. Open the case, remove the GTX 1060 and put in the RTX 3060TI.

Now if you own a 2 sticks RAM kit (2x8GB) , remove 1 of them (the one that is further away from the CPU), far as I know is the one labelled as "DIMM B2".

When you are ready (cross fingers) turn on the PSU and press the power button. (It may take a while to boot up the first time). If it works let it get into Windows, then shutdown the PC again and you can now re-install the extra stick of RAM.
 
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nicolo.casieri

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Jan 25, 2018
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Are you using riser cable by any chance? I don't know what's up with your old motherboard but since now circumstances have changed and if are using riser cable, these are often pcie3 only and can cause no display issues with pcie4 card / pcie4 slot if not configured to pcie3 instead of on auto.

No, I'm plugging the GPU directly to the PCIE slot.
 

nicolo.casieri

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Jan 25, 2018
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Besides what boju wrote, I would try:

Put the GTX 1060 back in and get into the BIOS. Press go to Settings, Advanced and look for the option to set PCIe port Gen (options should be Auto, Gen1, Gen2, Gen3 and Gen4) set it to Auto if its not. (Page 48 and 49 if I'm not mistaken: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C37v2.2.pdf)

After that press F10 (Save + Exit) the PC will restart. Upon restart (still usnig the GTX 1060) get into the BIOS again and check that the option still on Auto.

What I would do next is turn off the PC, turn off the PSU switch, and then press the power button a few times and keep it down for at least 30 seconds to drain any leftover energy. Open the case, remove the GTX 1060 and put in the RTX 3060TI.

Now if you own a 2 sticks RAM kit (2x8GB) , remove 1 of them (the one that is further away from the CPU), far as I know is the one labelled as "DIMM B2".

When you are ready (cross fingers) turn on the PSU and press the power button. (It may take a while to boot up the first time). If it works let it get into Windows, then shutdown the PC again and you can now re-install the extra stick of RAM.

Tried everything you wrote. Sadly, the outcome is still the same: CPU Led on when mounting the RTX 3060 TI. It's been 15 years since I've built my first PC; I've build many more, for me and others. This is literally the first time I encounter such a strange phenomenon. Now I'm gonna test the 3060 ti on another PC, even though it's a little old (currently mounts a GTX 970 and a CPU from that time period). If it works on that machine...I'll bring mine to a IT repair lab.
 
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Tried everything you wrote. Sadly, the outcome is still the same: CPU Led on when mounting the RTX 3060 TI. It's been 15 years since I've built my first PC; I've build many more, for me and others. This is literally the first time I encounter such a strange phenomenon. Now I'm gonna test the 3060 ti on another PC, even though it's a little old (currently mounts a GTX 970 and a CPU from that time period). If it works on that machine...I'll bring mine to a IT repair lab.

Your RTX 3060TI is brand new right?, you should be able to RMA and/or claim Waranty.

Good luck!!!

And pelase if you don't mind lets us know how it go and what was the solution.
 

nicolo.casieri

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Jan 25, 2018
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Your RTX 3060TI is brand new right?, you should be able to RMA and/or claim Waranty.

Good luck!!!

And pelase if you don't mind lets us know how it go and what was the solution.

As I imagined, the 3060ti works flawlessly on my friend's PC. These are his specs:
CPU: intel core i5 3.50ghz
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8gb (2*4)
MOBO: MSI H81M-E34
PSU: CORSAIR CX750M

As said before, normally he mounts a GTX 970.

The only option I can think of is something odd with my Case, if that makes any sense. I do feel like the GPU need too much pushing to be seated in the PCI-E slot. Good news is I don't have the rush to RMA the GPU, so I could theoretically buy another Case, although I'd like to avoid this. But at least I won't need to pay an IT repair lab. Amazon has excellent refund options, so I could just buy a case, test it and if the problem still occur, send it back. Of course, if the problem still occur, the only option would be an IT repair lab.
 
Works in a buddy's PC... previous gpu also still works... thinking it's the motherboard...
Prime B450M-A only has one slot...

The X570 Gaming Plus, did you try the gpu in the secondary slot?

Besides what Phaaze88 wrote, how about building the PC outside the case on a cardboard box or a wooden table? (be carefull, please!)

If it does not work outside the case either, then maybe its your PSU?
 

nicolo.casieri

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Works in a buddy's PC... previous gpu also still works... thinking it's the motherboard...
Prime B450M-A only has one slot...

The X570 Gaming Plus, did you try the gpu in the secondary slot?

I did not, will try as soon as possible, thanks! The 3060ti didn't work with the previous motherboard I had (ASUS PRIME B450M), whereas the old GPU (GTX 1060) worked like a charm. But at this point, literally anything is possible. Thank God there's Amazon with easy return options, I've bought a new Case (Cooler Master MasterBox TD500 Mesh White) and will try that as well.
 

nicolo.casieri

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I tried to use the secondary PCI-E slot, still nothing. Building the PC outside the case might be useful! The PSU is brand new (well, I bought it two weeks ago).
GTX 1060 6GB TDP: 120w
RTX 3060 TI TDP: 200w
If the 1060 works, the only way the PSU could be the culprit is as if for some reason those 80w are too much for it...but being an 850w makes it hard. Unless of course it's faulty.

I'm thinking to just remove the motherboard from the case and carefully put it on a cardboard box or even wood. That way, I can be 100% sure the Case isn't the problem. Do you think it could be a driver issue? Another thing I didn't try is to complete uninstall nvidia drivers, but still...the PC should at least POST successfully, right?
 
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