[SOLVED] Ryzen 3600 4.4GHZ@1.25Volts

Stratis123

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Hello everyone, so today i had some free time to experiment with the oc capabilities of my 3600, so i managed to achieve 4.4 at 1.25 volts with LLC at level 6. I ran cinebench r20 a few times, aida64 for a few min and played CoD Warzone for an hour and a half and it seems pretty stable. Do you think i should keep this OC or just put it back to stock in order to avoid any degradation in the future? Im asking because there is a mess on the internet about the "safe voltage" situation and i dont really know whats the best for the chip.
 
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I see... well, you can't find the FIT Voltage if any throttling occurs, so that's a lost cause. The little Hyper 212 can't handle it.


Ambient temp: Around 29-30C
That doesn't reflect the temperature of the air in the chassis, or that entering the Hyper 212 though. The air in the chassis is always warmer than that of your room by a small or large degree depending on the setup.

3)Case: Coolemaster masterbox MB600L one 120mm fan on front blowing air directly to cpu cooler, 2* CM Masterfan SF120R RGB(the fan that came with the cooler but i bought one more) fans on the cooler and one 120mm fan on the back blowing air out of the case.
Well, this certainly isn't helping things.
You're overclocking, but your cooling setup...

Flamebrander

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Hi Stratis123, I'm pretty sure that you could run the 3600 at 4.4 GHZ, but it wouldn't be the best as it's only rated for 4.2 I think. It's probably going to reduce the lifespan, and I'm pretty surprised you were even able to hit that high of a clock speed. I have a 3600x and it can't stabley run at 4.1 GHZ without crashing. Looks like you won the silicon lottery on this one, but i'd downclock it to 4.3 GHZ and it should run fine.
 
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Stratis123

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Hi Stratis123, I'm pretty sure that you could run the 3600 at 4.4 GHZ, but it wouldn't be the best as it's only rated for 4.2 I think. It's probably going to reduce the lifespan, and I'm pretty surprised you were even able to hit that high of a clock speed. I have a 3600x and it can't stabley run at 4.1 GHZ without crashing. Looks like you won the silicon lottery on this one, but i'd downclock it to 4.3 GHZ and it should run fine.
4.2 is the max boost clock that can be achieved at stock settings. The thing is that because my house is kinda hot during summer i had temp problems while running my cpu stock because of PBO (it could reach 95C even with my hyper 212 evo black edition), now with a steady voltage of 1.25V (and with a huge dose of luck) i managed to get it at 4.4 and not only that, i have better thermals, better multi core and single core performance. I dont really care if i lose 2 years lifespan out of (lets say) 10. In the end of the day i wont keep it for that long.
 

Flamebrander

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4.2 is the max boost clock that can be achieved at stock settings. The thing is that because my house is kinda hot during summer i had temp problems while running my cpu stock because of PBO (it could reach 95C even with my hyper 212 evo black edition), now with a steady voltage of 1.25V (and with a huge dose of luck) i managed to get it at 4.4 and not only that, i have better thermals, better multi core and single core performance. I dont really care if i lose 2 years lifespan out of (lets say) 10. In the end of the day i wont keep it for that long.

Ok then, go ahead other than the decreased lifespan, it'll probably work fine GIVEN proper cooling. The hyper 212 is great, and I use it in my build, but if you're going to go way overclocked then get at least like a Noctua fan or a 240 or 280 rad unless you want it to die in a couple months, because that might actually happen. Curious tho, what's your idle and load temps like?
 

Stratis123

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Ok then, go ahead other than the decreased lifespan, it'll probably work fine GIVEN proper cooling. The hyper 212 is great, and I use it in my build, but if you're going to go way overclocked then get at least like a Noctua fan or a 240 or 280 rad unless you want it to die in a couple months, because that might actually happen. Curious tho, what's your idle and load temps like?
Idle:42C
Under load: 76-78C But in a really hot room so im expecting to see an improvement during winter.
 

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glennhl

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So 1.325 volts might or might not be safe. When I use normal settings on my R5-3600X, it runs Cinebench R20 at 3750 and the CPU temps peaks at 75C. When I manually overclock using Ryzen Master to 4275 with peak voltage set to 1.33125 I get a Cinebench R20 score of 3866 and my Temperature is lower at 72C. So isn't the overclock safer for the chip since it's 3C lower in temperature?
 

Phaaze88

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So 1.325 volts might or might not be safe. When I use normal settings on my R5-3600X, it runs Cinebench R20 at 3750 and the CPU temps peaks at 75C. When I manually overclock using Ryzen Master to 4275 with peak voltage set to 1.33125 I get a Cinebench R20 score of 3866 and my Temperature is lower at 72C. So isn't the overclock safer for the chip since it's 3C lower in temperature?
Negative. It's got nothing to do with temperature.
 
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So if I understand that thread right, I don't need to OC my 3900X, just a good board with decent VRM cooling and power delivery, and a good cooling solution, then it basically "overclocks" itself?
 

Flamebrander

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Idle:42C
Under load: 76-78C But in a really hot room so im expecting to see an improvement during winter.
That's actually not a bad temperature to have, so I'd say cooling is sufficient. Honestly, I don't really see a problem with your overclock, so as long as you are ok with it having a relatively high chance of failing in the next few months. If you see a fit to keep it like that, then go ahead. Otherwise, I'd steer on the safe side and downclock it a little
 
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Flamebrander

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So if I understand that thread right, I don't need to OC my 3900X, just a good board with decent VRM cooling and power delivery, and a good cooling solution, then it basically "overclocks" itself?
Uhm there is a prescision boot overdrive for Zen 2 chips, but you should definitely overclock it to get better performance. To put this into perspective, precision boost might get you like 5 - 10% overclock, but manually, you can definitely get at least 15% if not more given decent cooling. If you're comfortable with overclocking, you should definitely do it.
 

Phaaze88

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Uhm there is a prescision boot overdrive for Zen 2 chips, but you should definitely overclock it to get better performance. To put this into perspective, precision boost might get you like 5 - 10% overclock, but manually, you can definitely get at least 15% if not more given decent cooling. If you're comfortable with overclocking, you should definitely do it.
No, manual overclocking is crap on Ryzen 3000.
A)The trade-off is worse ascending the product stack.
Ok, so Ryzen 3600 - 4.4ghz OC... let's ignore FIT Voltage and whatnot, for now, and assume it's actually stable there - out of it's advertised 4.2ghz single thread, and however much it was boosting to across all threads before - 4.0ghz, give or take?
So, 200mhz gain single, 400mhz multi.

Now take the opposite end of the stack, the 3950X. I remember this one from a thread just last month: a 4.3ghz OC.
That user just threw away 400mhz, because the 3950X has a single thread boost of 4.7ghz... and they gained 100 - MAYBE 200mhz all thread?
What use is that all thread OC if many apps still depend on single thread performance?

B)It's an inferior method to performance tweaking these cpus compared to:
-slapping an 'overkill cooler' on it, because the cpu already boosts itself if the thermal headroom is available
-memory up to 3600/3733mhz, FCLK to half of the frequency, and then tightening the timings via Ryzen Dram Calculator
No need to bother with FIT Voltage or whatever, no issue with single thread performance loss, and all thread OC doesn't really offer anything over it.
Lower thermals, you say? Nah, that's just herd/hive mentality creating an issue out of nothing.

C)Overclocking Ryzen 3000 without finding the FIT Voltage, and then prematurely killing their cpu in a matter of a few months.
What actually kills them isn't voltage, but is related to it: the amount of current. Normally, the cpu takes care of that itself. When one manually OCs, it doesn't do that anymore, passing the task to the user... and that's where the FIT Voltage comes in.


If folks still want to manually OC Ryzen 3000 despite the above... well, that is their choice, but to suggest someone do it to get better performance? That's very situational.
 
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I never OCd a processor let alone a Ryzen which I hear is more complicated so I won't touch that with a 10 foot pole. I'll let PBO do the work for me lol. My 3200 MHz RAM kinda limits my Ryzen's performance already
 

Stratis123

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View: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/ejd5c9/1325v_is_not_safe_for_zen_2/


To find your cpu's FIT voltage:
-Enable PBO and leave everything else on auto
-Download and run hwinfo(Sensors Only), and leave it open
-Run Prime 95, Small FFT
-Watch the SVI2 TFN sensor while Prime is running- the Current reading is the FIT Voltage, not the minimum, maximum, or Average
This will not work if any throttling occurs.
Thanks for your response and your time to gather all this. So im convinced that i should leave manual OC on 3000 series ryzen, but the thing is that im getting higher temps with pbo enabled than my current oc (4.4ghz) sometimes it even exceeds 95C even with the CM hyper 212 black edition (while stress testing, immediately it jumps to 87C) . I have reseated the cpu, rma the board, switched between 3 thernal pastes (thermal grizzly kryonaut, hydronaut, and the paste that came with the cooler) but there is no difference at all, the same behaviour, it gets really hot and i dont know what else to try. Thats why i was really happy with my OC. So ill reset everything tweak PBO a lil bit.
If you have any tips on how to lower my temps please feel free to tell me.
Thanks again
 

Phaaze88

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@Stratis123
1)Do you know your FIT Voltage though?
Did you try to find it? PBO enabled, and ALL other settings on auto? Prime 95, Small FFT... all while watching the SVIN TF2 sensor's CURRENT reading?

2)The purpose of thermal paste is not cooling, but a BRIDGE. None of those pastes - pretty sure one of those is LM, which is bad - should change a thing if applied correctly; the heatsink and fan(s) are doing the real work.

3)"I'm getting higher temps with pbo enabled than my current oc (4.4ghz) sometimes it even exceeds 95C even with the CM hyper 212 black edition (while stress testing, immediately it jumps to 87C)."
In which/what scenario? And is that with your OC settings?

4)What is your chassis? How are your fans set up?

5)What's the temperature of the air entering the cooler?
You won't know this unless you have a small thermometer or thermal probe sitting in front of the cooler.

Need more info from what you've provided so far.



It may make more sense to manually OC Ryzen 3600 if speeds over the advertised 4.2ghz are possible. For the other Ryzens, it's not worth the tradeoffs.
 
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Stratis123

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@Stratis123
1)Do you know your FIT Voltage though?
Did you try to find it? PBO enabled, and ALL other settings on auto? Prime 95, Small FFT... all while watching the SVIN TF2 sensor's CURRENT reading?

2)The purpose of thermal paste is not cooling, but a BRIDGE. None of those pastes - pretty sure one of those is LM, which is bad - should change a thing if applied correctly; the heatsink and fan(s) are doing the real work.

3)"I'm getting higher temps with pbo enabled than my current oc (4.4ghz) sometimes it even exceeds 95C even with the CM hyper 212 black edition (while stress testing, immediately it jumps to 87C)."
In which/what scenario? And is that with your OC settings?

4)What is your chassis? How are your fans set up?

5)What's the temperature of the air entering the cooler?
You won't know this unless you have a small thermometer or thermal probe sitting in front of the cooler.

Need more info from what you've provided so far.



It may make more sense to manually OC Ryzen 3600 if speeds over the advertised 4.2ghz are possible. For the other Ryzens, it's not worth the tradeoffs.
Thank you again for your response and your time.

First of all, i went back to bios and removed my OC and enabled PBO with the ather settings set at auto ran Prime95 small FFT and here is a screenshot from hwinfo64 : https://www.dropbox.com/s/3xi875ln0mtvf7g/Χωρίς τίτλο.png?dl=0
  1. No liquid metal applied
  2. Yes, indeed as you can see it can hit 95C easy when its on auto with PBO enabled. When i had it at 4.4@1.250V never went through 80-82C on such loads (around 77C while gaming) also i had lower idle temps. I cant really understand why i have much higher temps when its auto.
Ambient temp: Around 29-30C (Kinda hot during summer in Greece).
Case: Coolemaster masterbox MB600L one 120mm fan on front blowing air directly to cpu cooler, 2* CM Masterfan SF120R RGB(the fan that came with the cooler but i bought one more) fans on the cooler and one 120mm fan on the back blowing air out of the case.

Sorry for my late responses.
Thanks again.
 
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Phaaze88

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I see... well, you can't find the FIT Voltage if any throttling occurs, so that's a lost cause. The little Hyper 212 can't handle it.


Ambient temp: Around 29-30C
That doesn't reflect the temperature of the air in the chassis, or that entering the Hyper 212 though. The air in the chassis is always warmer than that of your room by a small or large degree depending on the setup.

3)Case: Coolemaster masterbox MB600L one 120mm fan on front blowing air directly to cpu cooler, 2* CM Masterfan SF120R RGB(the fan that came with the cooler but i bought one more) fans on the cooler and one 120mm fan on the back blowing air out of the case.
Well, this certainly isn't helping things.
You're overclocking, but your cooling setup doesn't reflect this...
 
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