[SOLVED] Ryzen 5 3600 Overheating With an AIO!??

[justnopenope]

Specs :
Ryzen 5 3600
AIO > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RK4R53X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 GB RAM 2666 MHz
# of case fans : 4 (1 at the back, 1 on the roof (exhaust oriented), 2 attached to the radiator in a pull config (rad is at the front)).
GTX 1070 SSC OC ARMOR

Alright, I got a bit of weird situation.
I recently moved and took my desktop with me. The CPU began throttling at 100 degrees CELCIUS! I immediately shut the PC off and looked for any obvious problems : Cord knocked out? No. Fans dirty? No, cleaned them before moving. RGB plugged in correctly? Yes, I can't live without it.

I have literally taken the entire cooler off and replaced the thermal paste with new paste and only the cpu is still overheating, even in the BIOS!
The air coming out from the top/rear exhausts is still cool, and the GPU is at a comfortable 50 Celsius, so I haven't a clue what's going on now

 

[punkncat]

Obvious first suspect would be a bad or disconnected pump. Do you see the pump showing an RPM in BIOS?
There are a couple of videos by various content creators discussing the proper orientation of AIO hoses as well. Without getting too deep into that aspect it might be worth consideration from an installation and/or part of the move that an air bubble is trapped somewhere?

Do you have your stock (air) cooler still?

 

[iPeekYou]

Specs :
Ryzen 5 3600
AIO > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RK4R53X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 GB RAM 2666 MHz
# of case fans : 4 (1 at the back, 1 on the roof (exhaust oriented), 2 attached to the radiator in a pull config (rad is at the front)).
GTX 1070 SSC OC ARMOR

Alright, I got a bit of weird situation.
I recently moved and took my desktop with me. The CPU began throttling at 100 degrees CELCIUS! I immediately shut the PC off and looked for any obvious problems : Cord knocked out? No. Fans dirty? No, cleaned them before moving. RGB plugged in correctly? Yes, I can't live without it.

I have literally taken the entire cooler off and replaced the thermal paste with new paste and only the cpu is still overheating, even in the BIOS!
The air coming out from the top/rear exhausts is still cool, and the GPU is at a comfortable 50 Celsius, so I haven't a clue what's going on now

How's the thermal paste spread under the cooler? My first thought is during the move, the mounting got loose and you're facing sudden high temps.

 

[justnopenope]

How's the thermal paste spread under the cooler? My first thought is during the move, the mounting got loose and you're facing sudden high temps.

I changed out the thermal paste for a higher quality one and double-triple checked it was mounted correctly. I even tried flipping the radiator. Temps are the same. Is there a way to underclock the cpu? I'm literally just trying to play League here, not asking for much power. Motherboard is an asus rog b450

 

[justnopenope]

Obvious first suspect would be a bad or disconnected pump. Do you see the pump showing an RPM in BIOS?
There are a couple of videos by various content creators discussing the proper orientation of AIO hoses as well. Without getting too deep into that aspect it might be worth consideration from an installation and/or part of the move that an air bubble is trapped somewhere?

Do you have your stock (air) cooler still?

In BIOS the aio pump is showing a value of 2100-2200 (slowly goes up and down a little).
AIO hoses are oriented with the pump as low in the loop as possible (case only supports front mounting).

 

[punkncat]

If you said anything, I missed it. What case?

 

[iPeekYou]

I changed out the thermal paste for a higher quality one and double-triple checked it was mounted correctly. I even tried flipping the radiator. Temps are the same. Is there a way to underclock the cpu? I'm literally just trying to play League here, not asking for much power. Motherboard is an asus rog b450

If you're overheating that bad and that quickly, I don't think underclock/undervolt is going to help much. If your cooler is inadequate from the start, it'll manifest in loads such as gaming or synthetic stress tests. On idle? Pretty much any cooler can do the job.

High idle temps that trends upwards, plus a quick jump to thermal throttle point sounds like a case of bad cooler-IHS contact. I've had some coolers that were mounted improperly and my system did just that. The worse the contact, the more severe the heat spike. I still think it's the mounting; can't think of anything else at the moment.

Bit of a janky troubleshooting back when I had a 240mm AIO that just wouldn't mount correctly despite mounting brackets and screws were all tight: remove the mounting brackets, lay the system on its side, and apply pressure by hand instead (as evenly as possible). In my case, turns out the AIO itself was faulty somehow, since I used the bracket for the 120mm variant and it worked perfectly.

 

[justnopenope]

I have found a temporary solution.
I HEAVILY underclocked the cpu (4 ghz to 3.2ghz).
At idle I'm now at 55 Celsius, at full load playing destiny 2 at max settings i'm at 70 Celsius.
I am beginning to suspect the cooler I got just straight up doesn't work properly anymore, as despite showing a value in the bios, the cpu gets way to hot for it to be anything other than a malfunction in the pump. I've ordered an aftermarket cooler from the same company to see if ID-cooling is just not a reliable source

 

[iPeekYou]

I have found a temporary solution.
I HEAVILY underclocked the cpu (4 ghz to 3.2ghz).
At idle I'm now at 55 Celsius, at full load playing destiny 2 at max settings i'm at 70 Celsius.
I am beginning to suspect the cooler I got just straight up doesn't work properly anymore, as despite showing a value in the bios, the cpu gets way to hot for it to be anything other than a malfunction in the pump. I've ordered an aftermarket cooler from the same company to see if ID-cooling is just not a reliable source

ID-Cooling is quite popular in my country, haven't heard of something like this. Then again, I do have bad experience with them but nothing similar. My 207 XT consistently pulled out my CPU, never happened with any other coolers I've used.

Oh, and I had a slim fan of theirs that just can't keep its blades inside the frame at high speeds. Wasn't even $5, though. That's what I get by cheaping out.

 

[justnopenope]

Just went to change the cooler and the waterblock pulled out the cpu with it. I'm never using this thing again.

 

[iPeekYou]

Just went to change the cooler and the waterblock pulled out the cpu with it. I'm never using this thing again.

Oh wow. Seems like a trademark of ID-Cooling then. My Deepcool coolers never pulled out the CPU, even after being left on longer installed than ID-C's.

 

[Fiorezy]

Oh wow. Seems like a trademark of ID-Cooling then. My Deepcool coolers never pulled out the CPU, even after being left on longer installed than ID-C's.

It happens with many coolers on AM4, the best you can do it is to run some benchmark for 10 minutes or so, this will soften the thermal paste and make the cooler much easier to remove.

 

[iPeekYou]

It happens with many coolers on AM4, the best you can do it is to run some benchmark for 10 minutes or so, this will soften the thermal paste and make the cooler much easier to remove.

To clarify, I always hit my system with 15 minute run of OCCT small before removing the cooler. Never had it happen to me, through the stock Wraith cooler, to the Prism, and none of other aftermarket coolers I have. And yes, I twist all my coolers a bit to loosen up the vacuum contact. Only the ID-Cooling 207 managed to pull the chip out of the socket 100% of the time. The mounting is just so that I can't really twist it much unless I pull the cooler upwards --naturally, this is where the chip comes out of the socket. I'm just lucky that the few bent pins from the twisting are always fixable.

 

[Kona45primo]

I heard some great advice after I battled it out with my AIO & Cpu.

Fishing line or dental floss can be slipped between the cpu/cooler and it's supposed to help with removal immensely.

 

[iPeekYou]

I heard some great advice after I battled it out with my AIO & Cpu.

Fishing line or dental floss can be slipped between the cpu/cooler and it's supposed to help with removal immensely.

Yeah I've read about that, at the time I have none handy though. I suppose it's possible to finagle the string underneath the cooler while it's still attached (but screws loose/out of the way)? Is that the idea for preventing the chip from getting pulled out?



Really wish AMD would just use retaining clip like Intel. It's one of the sensible things they did back then.

 

[Fiorezy]

To clarify, I always hit my system with 15 minute run of OCCT small before removing the cooler. Never had it happen to me, through the stock Wraith cooler, to the Prism, and none of other aftermarket coolers I have. And yes, I twist all my coolers a bit to loosen up the vacuum contact. Only the ID-Cooling 207 managed to pull the chip out of the socket 100% of the time. The mounting is just so that I can't really twist it much unless I pull the cooler upwards --naturally, this is where the chip comes out of the socket. I'm just lucky that the few bent pins from the twisting are always fixable.

I will never ever buy an AMD cpu ever again until they do something with their socket, currently, replacing thermal paste or mounting a new cooler is a nightmare, once I bent a few pins on my 3700x and spent a good 4 hours trying to fix it with my fat sweaty hands using a razor blade and a needle