Question Ryzen 5 5600X running @ 61°C (142°F) idle

Tocs13

Prominent
Mar 7, 2019
5
0
510
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The 5600X is currently sitting at 61°C whilst typing this with nothing else running. With MSI game boost and XMP on it was sitting at 70°C. When windows is starting it hits about 80°C.

I have it installed in a MSI X570 Gaming plus using the 7C37vAA bios. The latest non beta version is 7C37vAB but that makes the system not post so I reverted back one.

I have tried reseating it multiple times using different coolers. I have tried a Noctua NH-U12P, which I've had for years and it was sitting hot so I redid the thermal paste but it made no difference. I then put the stock cooler on with the pre-applied paste but it is still hot. This is about my 10th or so build over the years and first time I've ran into issues like this.

I ran Cinebench R20 a few times in a row and it reached 81°C (117°F) so not too bad. With MSI game boost on, 5secs in from when Cinebench started it restarted my PC (I presume overheating).

I have just noticed that onedrive is using about 7% of the CPU and when I close it the temp drops to 49C (113°C) with now about 5% CPU utilisation. I'm expecting about 40°C so there is still something not quite right as in the bios it is reporting the CPU at 36°C.

I don't think it is a cooler issue as I've tried different ones. So I presume it is something that Windows is doing that is causing this?

It is a fairly fresh install of windows but it was installed prior to this new motherboard and CPU. Not sure if that would make a difference or not?
Does anyone have some sort of idea of what I could try next?
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
What motherboard and CPU were you running on this Windows installation prior to this build?

Not that THAT should have anything really to do with the temperatures, but still a worthy question as it's very likely a clean install would be a good idea.

Also, these. In BIOS.

Cool N Quiet - Enabled (If this setting is not available in your BIOS, just worry about the rest)

Core CPPC - Enabled

CPPC preferred cores - Enabled

Advanced/Global C-states - Enabled

Precision boost overdrive (PBO/PBO2) - Disabled (Unless you have high end cooling installed. Also, standard boost profiles like Precision boost (Non-overdrive) and XFR2 should be left enabled.)

In Windows.

Ryzen or Windows balanced power plan. In advanced power plan settings, set minimum processor power state to 5%, maximum to 100%.


Also, the cooler doesn't make much difference if there's not enough ambient airflow getting to it, so try taking the side panel off and running it like that to see if that makes any difference. If it does, even five degrees, then it's likely you are starved for air and may need to consider either a different case or additional fans, or a different orientation of the existing fans. Outlining your current case and exact case fan configuration including the orientation (intake or exhaust) for EACH fan in EACH location, would be very helpful as well.
 

Tocs13

Prominent
Mar 7, 2019
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I was running a 1600X using a MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon.

I was able to do everything except the cool N quiet and it doesn't look like it has helped at all.

I'm using a Corsair 220T case, which has 3x 120mm fans at the front with airflow out the top and rear. So airflow I don't think is the issue. I have also tested with the panels removed, which it currently is. Ambient temp here is only 20°C also so ideal temps really.

It looks like a windows reinstall might be next thing to try or alternately I could try the beta bios? https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threads/msi-x570-b550-beta-bios-update.348919/
 
There isn't a lot of stuff that can be the cause of this. If you revert all BIOS settings to default and you see 80C when you load Windows it's obviously the CPU cooler that is not properly installed unless the system is an oven with no fan which isn't the case here.
 

Tocs13

Prominent
Mar 7, 2019
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The thing I'm scratching my head about is that I've tried two coolers and reseating twice with the Noctua cooler. They also have different mounting brackets with bottoming out screws so you cant over tighten but gave a similar results. Also when I removed the Noctua cooler twice the thermal paste was well covered in a even thin coating. I have a cooler master tower cooler also that I might try to see if that puts up something better.
If this doesn't make a difference then I will reinstall windows as I'm out of options of things to try.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
I was running a 1600X using a MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon.

I was able to do everything except the cool N quiet and it doesn't look like it has helped at all.

I'm using a Corsair 220T case, which has 3x 120mm fans at the front with airflow out the top and rear. So airflow I don't think is the issue. I have also tested with the panels removed, which it currently is. Ambient temp here is only 20°C also so ideal temps really.

It looks like a windows reinstall might be next thing to try or alternately I could try the beta bios? https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threads/msi-x570-b550-beta-bios-update.348919/
By "airflow out the top and rear" do you mean, plainly, that there are vents there or fans there? Because there is a HUGE, ENORMOUS and GIGANTIC difference between having exhaust fan locations that are empty and having exhaust fan locations that are populated with correctly oriented exhaust fans. Passive exhaust doesn't work. At all. Ever.

If you are going to have ANY kind of passive arrangement to the case cooling it would be GREATLY preferred for it to be on the intake side of things. This is why many OEM or older style systems, or even modern systems that only come with a single fan, ALWAYS come with that single fan being the rear exhaust fan. The system can MUCH more easily draw outside cool air in, by way of a negative pressure differential that automatically brings in fresh air to replace the hot air being forced out by the exhaust fans, than it can force air out through those exhaust fan vent locations passively.

It's much like with a string. You can easily PULL a string, but try pushing it and see what happens. It's not all that different even though there are different principles involved.

If you don't have any fans in those exhaust fan locations you need to either MOVE some fans there until you can get some additional fans to add, or add some fans now. Optimally you would want to see a rear exhaust fan, a top-rear exhaust fan and then two or three front intake fans. That is reasonably optimal for most ANY air cooled configuration. Lacking enough fans, you would want to PREFERABLY see the exhaust fan locations populated FIRST, and then populate the front intake fans as allowed by the number of fans you get, or replace them in front later when you can get them.

If your configuration is as I suspect it is, then it wouldn't matter if you put an NH-D15 there. You would still probably have thermal problems. Also, do you have the glass front 220T or the 220T airflow edition?
 

Tocs13

Prominent
Mar 7, 2019
5
0
510
0
Thank you, I'm aware of airflow engineering as I work in a similar field that uses similar principles but more information for other people is always great for the community. I agree that exhaust fans are far better than intake fans.

I have the 220T airflow (didn't realise there were two options) that has the open grated front panel so there is plenty of airflow potential. I have kept the default position for them, so three intakes at the front, as I previously I didn't have any issues.

Since my last post I have installed a Cooler Master Hyper 212 that I had from a previous build. I applied the paste, levelled and thinned it out with a card to as smooth and even as I could so I could ensure full even coverage (I know overkill but I wanted to make sure). I also reset my onedrive as it was using 10% of CPU all the time and dropped 12°C when it was closed.

All this has now allowed my system to sit at 40°C at idle with or without onedrive open. The only problem is I did both of these at the same time so not sure which one fixed it if not both. I have positioned the cooler so it blows the warm air vertically out the top open vent with a push pull arrangement through the fins.

I might have to see if I can improve things further by adding an additional fan to the rear of the case in exhaust.

I also gained an extra 200 points in cinebench r20 with a max of 61°C after running it a few times. Given this was my idle temp earlier something has definitely improved.

Thank you everyone for your help.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Thank you, I'm aware of airflow engineering as I work in a similar field that uses similar principles but more information for other people is always great for the community. I agree that exhaust fans are far better than intake fans.
In which case then you should understand that everything else takes a distant second to putting exhaust fans in those locations. I don't know what field you work in that's "similar" but to the best of my knowledge aerodynamics are pretty well unique to themselves as anything that is the same IS aerodynamics and anything that isn't aerodynamics will be either related to solid or liquid matter and those have entirely different rules and behaviors than air or gaseous matter. Liquids for example will follow rules and behaviors subject to the theory of hydraulics for the most part, although there are in some cases exceptions in rare circumstances for the behaviors of air, liquids and solids under special circumstances. Those won't apply here though.

Here the only principles that really matter are the principles of pressure differential and stack effect. In both those principles, having top-rear and rear-top exhaust fans would sit at the highest of priorities in terms of facilitating heat exchange from inside the case to the outside environment.
 
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