Question Ryzen 7 5700G for 3 monitor , work and VMs, excel , sql , adobe pro

[SailorKXT_ATO]

Would the Ryzen 7 5700G be a good option for 3 monitor office and VMware machine?NOT GAMING. Essentially for a workstation .

I will would to have at least 3 monitors, 32 or 64Gbs RAM , for use with excel, multiple browsers, MS office, Adobe Pro 2020, and a few VMWare Workstation VM’s. Win 10 or 11 pro.
I am coming from a Xeon E3 1245 V2 , 32GBs machine I built in 2013. She’s starting to show her age. I don’t game, but I do like to nerd out, as well as work efficiently with lots of overhead and years of life on the system .
I’ll probably turn my old machine into a NAS. I don’t need extreme graphics as much as multiple monitor support on 24” and up monitors. Google can’t seem to help me with if its will be a decent workstation due to everything being gamer driven.
any suggestions, including MoBo or options would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Since the 5700G has about a 53% higher single core performance and about a 251% higher multithreaded performance than your current E3-1245 v3, then yes, it would probably be a good option. Even the 5600G which is about 50 bucks cheaper might be, although it isn't quite as big a bump in multithreaded performance since it has 2 fewer cores and 4 fewer total threads than the 5700G, but it's still miles above your current CPU.

There are however, supposedly fairly soon, supposed to be 7000 series Ryzen APUs coming, and if you don't actually NEED to do this right now, it might be very much worth waiting for because the Zen 4 products (7000 series) on average have about 26% higher multithreaded performance than the Zen 3 (5000 series) equivalent parts do. But they will also probably, initially at least, come with somewhat of a premium. Maybe not though because the 5600G has always been priced pretty well since it first released.

If you want to go with something now though using the 5700G, then there are some good options to be had but we really need to establish exactly what types of inputs you require for all three of your displays because it's going to require having a board that can support them all if you plan to run off the integrated graphics. If you are running a discreet graphics card then it makes little difference.

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

Since the 5700G has about a 53% higher single core performance and about a 251% higher multithreaded performance than your current E3-1245 v3, then yes, it would probably be a good option. Even the 5600G which is about 50 bucks cheaper might be, although it isn't quite as big a bump in multithreaded performance since it has 2 fewer cores and 4 fewer total threads than the 5700G, but it's still miles above your current CPU.

There are however, supposedly fairly soon, supposed to be 7000 series Ryzen APUs coming, and if you don't actually NEED to do this right now, it might be very much worth waiting for because the Zen 4 products (7000 series) on average have about 26% higher multithreaded performance than the Zen 3 (5000 series) equivalent parts do. But they will also probably, initially at least, come with somewhat of a premium. Maybe not though because the 5600G has always been priced pretty well since it first released.

If you want to go with something now though using the 5700G, then there are some good options to be had but we really need to establish exactly what types of inputs you require for all three of your displays because it's going to require having a board that can support them all if you plan to run off the integrated graphics. If you are running a discreet graphics card then it makes little difference.

Thank you kindly, great feedback! . I prefer DisplayPorts, it’s what I’m using for all three currently on a discrete card. The Xeon does have its own Intel graphics built in , but I think it gets messy moving windows between monitors/GPU .
I imagine it would be hard to get a micro ATX or ITX with all the display I/O. I’m fine with adding another Simple card, preferably something that will play nice and smooth with the APU.
Again, I really appreciate your help!

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, are you saying you need this to be either microATX or miniITX? Because you don't mention that in the original post.

What is the model of case you will be using with this?

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

So, are you saying you need this to be either microATX or miniITX? Because you don't mention that in the original post.

What is the model of case you will be using with this?

I haven't decided on a case yet. I used a NZXT Phamton 410 ATX Mid Tower on my 2013 build, as I anticipated using a lot of HDD's. Aside from it looking cool for 5 minutes, I'm not a fan of this case, or this size of it. It's 8.4"x20.3"x20.9". The top portion is NOT flat, which makes it essentially worthless, and the case is much larger than I anticipated. So, Long Story Short, I am thinking of keeping this new machine physically much leaner. I assembled a Bare Bones VivoMini VCR65 in 2017 for the office, and that thing has been a gem! However, for the homelab, I would like something more, but not as much as this clunky gamer midtower case. I don't care about LED's. Proferrably a professional case, or something similar. I'm open to suggestions. Ideally, something that is easy to access to fool /tool with.

Merry Christmas!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, the Phantom 410 cases fooled a lot of people back then. They looked "neat" and sort of "Alienware-ish", plus they had small windows on the side which most cases did not yet at that time so that of course pulled in all the initial "ooh, ahhh" crowd.

Things are so much different now, ten years later.


I would not recommend a microATX or miniITX case unless you specifically require it to have a very small footprint, or are a glutton for self punishment, because building in them is about as much fun as intentionally poking your finger into the wound created when they take out your appendix, or smashing your fingers repeatedly with a hammer. And it is very difficult to organize any sort of worthwhile cable management in most of them because there is simply nowhere to really hide things at. I mean, some of them are pretty ok and they are super nice once you get it all built, but if you have to get in there to do things even infrequently after the initial build, you'll pull hair out.

There are many very good mid tower cases these days and they don't have to be the size of that monstrosity.

So, what all do you actually NEED? CPU, motherboard, memory, case. Do you need any new storage devices or you have that covered? Possibly a graphics card if it isn't too expensive and can handle three DP outputs, or at least two, plus one from the iGPU. Anything else? And what is your hopeful budget for ALL of what you need?

MC to you too. I got a great gift this year. A giant coffee mug that says "Don't touch my effing cup" and that is the clean version of it, not what it actually says. LOL.

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

Yes, the Phantom 410 cases fooled a lot of people back then. They looked "neat" and sort of "Alienware-ish", plus they had small windows on the side which most cases did not yet at that time so that of course pulled in all the initial "ooh, ahhh" crowd.

Things are so much different now, ten years later.


I would not recommend a microATX or miniITX case unless you specifically require it to have a very small footprint, or are a glutton for self punishment, because building in them is about as much fun as intentionally poking your finger into the wound created when they take out your appendix, or smashing your fingers repeatedly with a hammer. And it is very difficult to organize any sort of worthwhile cable management in most of them because there is simply nowhere to really hide things at. I mean, some of them are pretty ok and they are super nice once you get it all built, but if you have to get in there to do things even infrequently after the initial build, you'll pull hair out.

There are many very good mid tower cases these days and they don't have to be the size of that monstrosity.

So, what all do you actually NEED? CPU, motherboard, memory, case. Do you need any new storage devices or you have that covered? Possibly a graphics card if it isn't too expensive and can handle three DP outputs, or at least two, plus one from the iGPU. Anything else? And what is your hopeful budget for ALL of what you need?

MC to you too. I got a great gift this year. A giant coffee mug that says "Don't touch my effing cup" and that is the clean version of it, not what it actually says. LOL.

Your feedback yet again is spot on! I do not have anything restricting the size of my case and/or board, save just not wanting to have another overkill as mentioned above. Not wanting to fight with cable management, or small confined spaces with my huge hands, nor wanting to lose patients and experience unneeded aggravation I will follow your advice and go with a midtower and full size board. I’m currently looking at an Antec P10C and some fractal, but the search has just started. I’m open to suggestions. So far I like the Antec quite a bit, I would just like it to be a little smaller as I will never need water cooling and I would like to avoid wasting space. I don’t really need a big case as i really don’t need to worry about lots of storage anymore, and I have two custom built I could flip into a NAS.

I have plenty of storage, including M.2, SSD’s, and HDD’s, and I believe I have a new unused PS that may work, or I can cannablise one from another build, depending on total watts calculated. All I need really is the CPU, case, RAM, Motherboard, maybe a low end GPU for more ports, but I think I have an NVIDIA one with 2 DP that might work. It’s nothing fancy.

I don’t have a budget, but after looking at some prebuilt workstations and desktops, I would like to stay under $1,200 - $1,500, however, I’m flexible. If you have any suggestions on any of the parts , especially the MoBo and case, it would be appreciated. I would like wifi included in the MoBo, and I would like to have a USB-C port on the front panel with type C.

I like your coffee cup. I literally gave my neighbor a bag of coal in a white, repurposed, amazon bag, secured by a few cheap staples at the top. He thought I ordered it at first 😂😂.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, so let's be VERY clear on one additional consideration. The PSU is THE most important component in ANY build, bar none. It is literally like the butt hole of the PC hardware world. You've heard the old joke about that right? If the ***hole closes up and stops working, EVERYTHING stops working! It's exactly the same with the power supply. It doesn't matter if the rest of your hardware costs 5000 dollars. If you have a 50 dollar power supply and it stops working, none of that hardware is going to work either, or more importantly, if that cheap power supply that maybe had some shoddy build quality shorts out or it was a design that lacked some essential protections in order to cut costs, it is very possible and in fact LIKELY, because we see it ALL the time, that it takes out some of that very expensive hardware. And if you're like me, it doesn't matter if it costs 500 or 5000 dollars, if I poured some of my heard earned money into it the last damn thing in the world I want is for any of it to be exposed to slow death from a cheap power supply that is bombarding it with high levels of ripple or out of spec voltage regulation, or killing any of it because some bad soldering inside shorted out or a cap failed or it lacked the kind of protection that would have limited some other failure to just one component instead of three or four of them.


So in light of that, what is the exact model of the "unused PSU" you have? And if any or all of the power supplies you could cannibalize from another build are not known good models OR are more than a year or two old, it would be a VERY bad idea to use them with this build. It makes no sense to put 1200 dollars worth of hardware at unnecessary risk in order to save 100-ish bucks.


As far as the case goes, I've done a couple of builds in this case and while it has enough room to work in without making it a real PITA, it is also not particularly large. And the quality of it is above average while also being a fairly decent looking case. Tell me what you think of this one. It's actually SMALLER than the microATX Antec case you're looking at, at only 400x200x465mm while the Antec case is 477x220x486mm. And it is much cleaner, WITH a nice tempered glass side panel so even if you don't care about it being "ooh ahhh" it affords you the ability to easily keep an eye on or quickly peek inside to make sure everything is running normally or "is is time to blow out the dust" etc.

It's also less than HALF the price of the Antec case at only 49.99. It also has a full mesh front panel which means much better airflow and cooling than that solid front panel on the Antec case that only has some slots in the sides and maybe bottom of the front panel. That is a design that has been repeatedly shown to seriously hamper cooling performance. Not that cooling is going to be a tremendous problem with this type of build, but even so, having a full mesh front panel means any front intake fans can work much more efficiently, and thus, run slower, which also means running quieter assuming you custom profile their fan curve properly in the BIOS.

https://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-G300A.html



PCPartPicker Part List

Case: Phanteks Eclipse G300A (1 Fan) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $49.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-25 23:39 EST-0500


Now, the Antec DOES come with four fans, while the Phanteks only comes with one, but we can add three additional decent quality, fairly quiet fans and still be saving you about thirty bucks or so off the cost of what that Antec case runs. Just a thought. I'm willing to put you something together in any case you decide you like, so just get back to me on these questions and I'll poke around at what looks good within your budget right now. Obviously, if we can do it all for less than your stated budget, so much the better, and I'm pretty damn sure we can by a fair measure.

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

Thank you your help, I apologize for not getting the make / model of the PS just yet, I had a minor procedure yesterday that didn’t go so smoothly , in part to getting sick just prior too with god knows what. I’ll get the ifo just as soon as I am able. Cheers!

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

Ok, so let's be VERY clear on one additional consideration. The PSU is THE most important component in ANY build, bar none. It is literally like the butt hole of the PC hardware world. You've heard the old joke about that right? If the ***hole closes up and stops working, EVERYTHING stops working! It's exactly the same with the power supply. It doesn't matter if the rest of your hardware costs 5000 dollars. If you have a 50 dollar power supply and it stops working, none of that hardware is going to work either, or more importantly, if that cheap power supply that maybe had some shoddy build quality shorts out or it was a design that lacked some essential protections in order to cut costs, it is very possible and in fact LIKELY, because we see it ALL the time, that it takes out some of that very expensive hardware. And if you're like me, it doesn't matter if it costs 500 or 5000 dollars, if I poured some of my heard earned money into it the last damn thing in the world I want is for any of it to be exposed to slow death from a cheap power supply that is bombarding it with high levels of ripple or out of spec voltage regulation, or killing any of it because some bad soldering inside shorted out or a cap failed or it lacked the kind of protection that would have limited some other failure to just one component instead of three or four of them.


So in light of that, what is the exact model of the "unused PSU" you have? And if any or all of the power supplies you could cannibalize from another build are not known good models OR are more than a year or two old, it would be a VERY bad idea to use them with this build. It makes no sense to put 1200 dollars worth of hardware at unnecessary risk in order to save 100-ish bucks.


As far as the case goes, I've done a couple of builds in this case and while it has enough room to work in without making it a real PITA, it is also not particularly large. And the quality of it is above average while also being a fairly decent looking case. Tell me what you think of this one. It's actually SMALLER than the microATX Antec case you're looking at, at only 400x200x465mm while the Antec case is 477x220x486mm. And it is much cleaner, WITH a nice tempered glass side panel so even if you don't care about it being "ooh ahhh" it affords you the ability to easily keep an eye on or quickly peek inside to make sure everything is running normally or "is is time to blow out the dust" etc.

It's also less than HALF the price of the Antec case at only 49.99. It also has a full mesh front panel which means much better airflow and cooling than that solid front panel on the Antec case that only has some slots in the sides and maybe bottom of the front panel. That is a design that has been repeatedly shown to seriously hamper cooling performance. Not that cooling is going to be a tremendous problem with this type of build, but even so, having a full mesh front panel means any front intake fans can work much more efficiently, and thus, run slower, which also means running quieter assuming you custom profile their fan curve properly in the BIOS.

https://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-G300A.html



PCPartPicker Part List

Case: Phanteks Eclipse G300A (1 Fan) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $49.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-25 23:39 EST-0500


Now, the Antec DOES come with four fans, while the Phanteks only comes with one, but we can add three additional decent quality, fairly quiet fans and still be saving you about thirty bucks or so off the cost of what that Antec case runs. Just a thought. I'm willing to put you something together in any case you decide you like, so just get back to me on these questions and I'll poke around at what looks good within your budget right now. Obviously, if we can do it all for less than your stated budget, so much the better, and I'm pretty damn sure we can by a fair measure.

That case looks great!

I’m easily game to get a new PSU, however, the new one I have front the summer, tested, but not permanently installed is

The new, unused one is:

Thermaltake Smart 500W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W

And I could cannablise this from the ‘13 build, but again, I have no problem buying new.

SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply

 

[Darkbreeze]

Buy new. Both of those suck.

Well, the M12II was ok back when it was new, but that was long ago. And it's a group regulated design, which you really don't want to be using for anything modern because it simply does not support some of the low power C states that have been implemented since about 2015, plus it lacks some of the more modern protections. Plus, it's old.

And as far as the Smart series unit, I'll be honest, that should not be used with anything more demanding than a mom and pop internet browsing machine using either integrated graphics or a very basic slot powered graphics card. They are very poor quality and I'm not exaggerating when I say I've probably seen at LEAST 150 threads on this site alone where a Smart series power supply was the root of all the problems that person was having and were immediately resolved by replacement. If you are able to return that unit, do so. If not, either use it in something that needs much less than 500w or sell it to somebody.

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

I apologize for he late response. You seem very knowledgeable and far more up to date on the current landscape than myself. Do you have any recommendations IRT the PSU, or any other components? I believe I’m about ready to execute this build as the updates on both my Win 10 and especially Win 11 boots / installs are slowing to a crawl for just basic task.
Thank you again in advance!

 

[General_Cool]

AMD just announced the 8000 series APUs, and the 8700G looks very promising for what you want to do.

Would recommend a build similar to this. I assumed since you're not a gamer you don't care for RGB nonsense, so I went with fully meshed case for more airflow: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hCb7yg

You can safely ignore the compatibility warning; PCPP admins listed the 8700G as an AM4 chip, but its an AM5. I suspect it will be fixed when the 8700G goes on sale on the 31st.

The motherboard I chose has 2 Displayport and 1 HDMI. I know you said you'd prefer to keep using all 3 monitors with DP but it was the best I could do...

Didn't know what you needed for storage, but based upon the fact that you won't need a graphics card, I've opted for the 990 Pro, which is likely to save you a nice bit of time on file transfers and the like.

I chose what is probably the best PSU you can get under 1000w. No need for more than that, and the 750w gives you headroom for a new card or more power hungry AM5 chip down the line. Plus it keeps you way under budget, giving you headroom to play with buying fans, liquid cooling, etc.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I apologize for he late response. You seem very knowledgeable and far more up to date on the current landscape than myself. Do you have any recommendations IRT the PSU, or any other components? I believe I’m about ready to execute this build as the updates on both my Win 10 and especially Win 11 boots / installs are slowing to a crawl for just basic task.
Thank you again in advance!

So, what exactly have you settled on so far if anything? That would help towards recommending a suitable power supply. I mean, if you're not going to be running a graphics card that requires something more than just slot power or integrated graphics, then something like this would be a good choice. And actually scratch that. It would be a good choice even if you're running a fairly capable mid tiered graphics card because right now there aren't really many worthwhile budget options out there.

Even choosing criteria including all units from 450w on up, with bronze, gold, platinum or titanium 80plus ratings, semi or fully modular (You don't want to deal with a non modular PSU these days. The majority of them are just garbage or very old models these days if they aren't at least semi-modular) and having at least some kind of professional review to back them up, this is still about the least expensive unit I'd really want to recommend. And yes, PSUs are pretty expensive right now if you don't want total junk. There are a number of reasons for this including the fact that all ATX power supplies are manufactured in China and everything coming from China is subject to significant tariffs. Shortages of some materials being used in them isn't helping either.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 - TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-15 01:47 EST-0500


But if you had to go with something cheaper, this would be the absolute lowest end unit I could with good conscience recommend, and only if you are not going to be running a discreet graphics card or any relatively high power draw hardware. For a basic system even with a slot only powered graphics card or iGPU, it would be "ok" but nowhere near the quality of the other unit. And, it's not much cheaper than the Thermaltake unit. Also, don't mistake this unit for any of the "CX (2023)" models, as those are non-modular AND use a low quality older platform that should be avoided.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair CX650M (2021) 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $69.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-15 01:57 EST-0500


If you decide to look around for deals, which might be out there and just not showing up on PCPP, be sure to come back here first and ask about it so you don't end up going with something like looks like a diamond but is actually costume jewelry.

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

So, what exactly have you settled on so far if anything? That would help towards recommending a suitable power supply. I mean, if you're not going to be running a graphics card that requires something more than just slot power or integrated graphics, then something like this would be a good choice. And actually scratch that. It would be a good choice even if you're running a fairly capable mid tiered graphics card because right now there aren't really many worthwhile budget options out there.

Even choosing criteria including all units from 450w on up, with bronze, gold, platinum or titanium 80plus ratings, semi or fully modular (You don't want to deal with a non modular PSU these days. The majority of them are just garbage or very old models these days if they aren't at least semi-modular) and having at least some kind of professional review to back them up, this is still about the least expensive unit I'd really want to recommend. And yes, PSUs are pretty expensive right now if you don't want total junk. There are a number of reasons for this including the fact that all ATX power supplies are manufactured in China and everything coming from China is subject to significant tariffs. Shortages of some materials being used in them isn't helping either.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 - TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-15 01:47 EST-0500


But if you had to go with something cheaper, this would be the absolute lowest end unit I could with good conscience recommend, and only if you are not going to be running a discreet graphics card or any relatively high power draw hardware. For a basic system even with a slot only powered graphics card or iGPU, it would be "ok" but nowhere near the quality of the other unit. And, it's not much cheaper than the Thermaltake unit. Also, don't mistake this unit for any of the "CX (2023)" models, as those are non-modular AND use a low quality older platform that should be avoided.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair CX650M (2021) 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $69.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-15 01:57 EST-0500


If you decide to look around for deals, which might be out there and just not showing up on PCPP, be sure to come back here first and ask about it so you don't end up going with something like looks like a diamond but is actually costume jewelry.

I like the idea of having room to grow and expand on if I want to upgrade, or swap out the Mobo and chip entirley in light of the next gen just being announced, or having flexibility in the event I do need a graphics card that requires its own power supply (not just slot power). I’m not financially constrained so I prefer to get the quality with the warranty.

Bottom line up front, I’m looking for a smaller form factor workstation to toy around with relative to my previous build, with STABILITY in mind. I would like to run VM,s with ease. I think this build, my daily driver OS will be a VM . Now how I approach that I haven’t decided, but ESXI would have been tempting , unless it’s changed, you can’t drive the VM directly from the HW (hardware) .

The only thing preventing me is that 5700G is 3-4 years old, and the announcement of the Ryzen 8 8700G.

That being said, the updates on windows are having a negative impact on my work flow, and I am dependent on Windows and supporting software for my employment.

I want a stable workstation I can toy with at will with no less than 3 monitors and a smaller form factor that hideous NZXT I’ve grown to abhor. 😂

I hope you are staying warm my friend.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Nope, freezing here. BUT, personally staying warm and inside. Been -17 degrees with the wind chill as a low for two days now where I am in southern Colorado. Below actual 0°F for more than 48hrs even without the wind chill. Tomorrow supposed to get to 20°F, so that's a lot better. Wednesday supposed to be back up to 40°F so that will be like a heat wave.

Well, going back to our original conversation, ANYTHING from the last three or four years you decide to go with is going to be like going a pedal powered bicycle to a vehicle with a turbo charged v6.

I personally would rethink going with one of these though because the 8000G products are going to be based on mobile architectures and I'm doubtful you will see anywhere near the same compute performance as you would with a standard desktop part and graphics card.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/2120...ocessors-zen-4-apus-for-desktop-with-ryzen-ai


Going with a 7000 series CPU and even a cheap modern graphics card would likely give you WAY better performance on both fronts. Or even an Intel part and graphics card. Something like this would be really good. Very powerful in fact and well below your budget we discussed. Of course, there are many ways including different platforms that this could be tweaked with/to.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse G300A (1 Fan) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 - TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1033.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-15 23:41 EST-0500


We could go with something that looks a little less expensive as well, but still has miles better performance than what you currently are working with. Like, MILES better. Not as good as the Intel system above, but still magnitudes better than your old Xeon system.


PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($127.29 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($17.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock X570 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse G300A (1 Fan) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 - TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $810.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-16 00:01 EST-0500


Unfortunately, without using some variety of adapters (And even then it's probably a bigger hassle than it's worth, because you'd need to adapt one HDMI and one USB or Thunderbolt to displayport), there simply aren't any boards that support three displayport ports through the motherboard for use with integrated CPU graphics. There ARE a few less expensive graphics cards that support 3x Displayport outputs but they will have significantly less graphics capability although basically any of them are able to do even three 4k displays via graphics card if you are not looking for high refresh rates or a lot of raw graphics acceleration capabilities.

 

[SailorKXT_ATO]

Nope, freezing here. BUT, personally staying warm and inside. Been -17 degrees with the wind chill as a low for two days now where I am in southern Colorado. Below actual 0°F for more than 48hrs even without the wind chill. Tomorrow supposed to get to 20°F, so that's a lot better. Wednesday supposed to be back up to 40°F so that will be like a heat wave.

Well, going back to our original conversation, ANYTHING from the last three or four years you decide to go with is going to be like going a pedal powered bicycle to a vehicle with a turbo charged v6.

I personally would rethink going with one of these though because the 8000G products are going to be based on mobile architectures and I'm doubtful you will see anywhere near the same compute performance as you would with a standard desktop part and graphics card.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/2120...ocessors-zen-4-apus-for-desktop-with-ryzen-ai


Going with a 7000 series CPU and even a cheap modern graphics card would likely give you WAY better performance on both fronts. Or even an Intel part and graphics card. Something like this would be really good. Very powerful in fact and well below your budget we discussed. Of course, there are many ways including different platforms that this could be tweaked with/to.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse G300A (1 Fan) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 - TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1033.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-15 23:41 EST-0500


We could go with something that looks a little less expensive as well, but still has miles better performance than what you currently are working with. Like, MILES better. Not as good as the Intel system above, but still magnitudes better than your old Xeon system.


PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($127.29 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($17.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock X570 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse G300A (1 Fan) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 - TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $810.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-01-16 00:01 EST-0500


Unfortunately, without using some variety of adapters (And even then it's probably a bigger hassle than it's worth, because you'd need to adapt one HDMI and one USB or Thunderbolt to displayport), there simply aren't any boards that support three displayport ports through the motherboard for use with integrated CPU graphics. There ARE a few less expensive graphics cards that support 3x Displayport outputs but they will have significantly less graphics capability although basically any of them are able to do even three 4k displays via graphics card if you are not looking for high refresh rates or a lot of raw graphics acceleration capabilities.

I'm expecting to get a low end Graphics Card. I'm assuming this board will work just fine for the 7 5700G? With this BIOS update I'm reading about, will I be required to have another AM4 CPU around to update it (as I do not have one available)?

 

[Darkbreeze]

You should not need to update the BIOS unless you buy from a retailer that doesn't do much business. The last time one of those boards left the assembly line that didn't already have support for the 5700G was in December of 2020.