[SOLVED] Ryzen 7 5800x idling at 85 to 90 degrees Celsius.

Jun 6, 2022
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CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B550-PLUS AMD AM4 Zen 3 Ryzen 5000
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL 32GB (2x16)
SSD/HDD: SAMSUNG (MZ-V8V1T0B/AM) 980 SSD 1TB - M.2 NVMe
GPU: MSI GTX 1560 Ventus xs 4G OC
PSU: ASUS ROG Strix 750 Fully Modular 80 Plus Gold 750W
Chassis: Silverstone fara r1
OS: Windows 10

The pc was functional with normal temperatures for about 7 months after which it started to spike and was reaching 90 to 100 degrees Celsius. I thought it was either the thermal paste or the cooler so I re applied thermal paste to the CPU (thermal paste was included with cooler). The temps dropped to 60 while idling. After another 2 weeks (today) I am having the same issue again. So I repasted the CPU (Still using the same thermal paste). But now the temps are 85 to 90 degrees while idling. I checked the pumps. They are working, all fans are functional. I have no idea what is wrong.
 
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Jun 6, 2022
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Yes I am starting to think that the AIO is broken. I went into bios and waited for the temp to rise. It started to rise steadily 40 to 70 degrees then the fan started to ramp up and the temp continued to rise at a lower pace. I shut down the pc, unplugged pump cable, waited for the pc to cool down. When I restarted the pc to bios and waited, the temp rise was almost the same as when the pump was connected.

The AIO is still under warranty. I will be contacting the store and try to return it.

Seems like you either got a goo situation clogging the flow or a pump problem. Sounds like its time for a new AIO or air cooler.
 
Reactions: helper800

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Do you yet have the stock cooler for the processor? If so, might want to try using that and see if the temps drop. As for your build, it's a good idea to parse your specs like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:

followed by images of your build to help us identify the location/orientation of your AIO with respect to the chassis.
 
Jun 6, 2022
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CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B550-PLUS AMD AM4 Zen 3 Ryzen 5000
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL 32GB (2x16)
SSD/HDD: SAMSUNG (MZ-V8V1T0B/AM) 980 SSD 1TB - M.2 NVMe
GPU: MSI GTX 1560 Ventus xs 4G OC
PSU: ASUS ROG Strix 750 Fully Modular 80 Plus Gold 750W
Chassis: Silverstone fara r1
OS: Windows 10

No the CPU does not come with a stock cooler.



Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Do you yet have the stock cooler for the processor? If so, might want to try using that and see if the temps drop. As for your build, it's a good idea to parse your specs like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:

followed by images of your build to help us identify the location/orientation of your AIO with respect to the chassis.
 
Jun 6, 2022
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I just changed the orientation of the radiators. I am leaving the pc on so that all the bubbles settles. The temps are 65 while idle. but still there is an issue. Each time the CPU's clock speed goes above 2.9 to 3.5 GHz the temps shoots up to 90 degrees. (Am using RYZEN MASTER to monitor temps and CPU's clock speed)


Your picture is worth a thousand words.
In time, air will enter the system.
Such bubbles will migrate to the top.
When air enters the tubes, less cooling will result.
I think you would do better to reorient the radiator so that the tubes are at the bottom

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk
 

geofelt

Titan
Looks better.
Still, 65c. while idle does seem to be a bit hot.
Ryzen seems to always be active at idle, but I think you can do better.
Did you clean off the old paste before applying new?
Did you use a reasonable amount of paste?
Not so much tat it overflows, it is hard to use too little.
Pumps will come with a mylar protective film that must be removed before use.
When tightening down the pump, do so in a criss-cross manner, a bit at a time; otherwise the pump will not be seated level.

What is the make/model of the cooler?
Is it still under warranty?
It might have become clogged or defective.
 
Reactions: keith12
Jun 6, 2022
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Yes can confirm that they are working. I checked the bios for the pump RPM and it is 3500 RPM. I can also hear the pump rumbling and the tubes feels like liquid is moving through.

Are you sure the pump is working properly? How do the tubes feel to your hand when the PC is running?
 

keith12

Champion
Where is your radiator venting to? What's at the front of your case? Seems to me you would be better off having the radiator at the top venting out, and two fans to the front of the chassis, pulling air in across your mobo, with the rear exhausting the case heat.
 
Jun 6, 2022
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These are my fan's orientation.


I cannot put the radiator at the top of the case because there is not enough space.

Where is your radiator venting to? What's at the front of your case? Seems to me you would be better off having the radiator at the top venting out, and two fans to the front of the chassis, pulling air in across your mobo, with the rear exhausting the case heat.
 
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Is that not a good thing? One pipe carrying hot liquid from CPU to radiator then it gets cooled down then sent back to CPU? Its a 240 mm radiator. Well am not an expert so I might be wrong.

Now that strongly suggests poor liquid flow, whether from bubbles or poor/failing pump. The delta between the temperature in the tubes should only be about two degrees C. AIOs rely on velocity; there's no active cooling element in radiators.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
Carefully (while still running) , and very very slowly pick up on the front of the case until it is almost sitting on the cables in back. This puts the rad on top of the pump and allows for any pump trapped air bubbles to travel up the tubing. As said, should only be @ 2°C difference in temp in the pump, so there's either a rather large air bubble trapped in the pump, or something in the coolant has blocked the flow. The cold tube coming from the rad, the hot tube going to the rad. It means the coolant is spending far too long inside the pump before being moved on.

If it ran for months as was, temps decent, my vote would be either the flow is blocked by crud in the coolant, or the impeller in the pump has failed, motor still runs, but no fluid gets moved.
 

DSzymborski

Titan
Moderator
Is that not a good thing? One pipe carrying hot liquid from CPU to radiator then it gets cooled down then sent back to CPU? Its a 240 mm radiator. Well am not an expert so I might be wrong.
No, it is absolutely not. Again, the typical delta between the fluid should only be about two degrees. If 60 degree fluid went into the radiator and ambient fluid came out, you could cool a CPU from overheating to just above ambient in seconds.

There's no active cooling in a radiator; it's not an air conditioner. That's why flow is important; AIOs cool because they rapidly move the liquid.
 
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I played with the radiator and tried to remove air bubbles from the pump. It is sitting at a 47 degrees at the moment (when 500 MHz). I tried using the pc and the temps reached a maximum of 86 degrees at 3900 MHz. That is an improvement. I will keep the pc on for some more hours and see if the temp climbs to 90 degrees while idling. [NOTES the CPU is in ECO mode]

Carefully (while still running) , and very very slowly pick up on the front of the case until it is almost sitting on the cables in back. This puts the rad on top of the pump and allows for any pump trapped air bubbles to travel up the tubing. As said, should only be @ 2°C difference in temp in the pump, so there's either a rather large air bubble trapped in the pump, or something in the coolant has blocked the flow. The cold tube coming from the rad, the hot tube going to the rad. It means the coolant is spending far too long inside the pump before being moved on.

If it ran for months as was, temps decent, my vote would be either the flow is blocked by crud in the coolant, or the impeller in the pump has failed, motor still runs, but no fluid gets moved.
 
Jun 6, 2022
11
2
25
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Yes I am starting to think that the AIO is broken. I went into bios and waited for the temp to rise. It started to rise steadily 40 to 70 degrees then the fan started to ramp up and the temp continued to rise at a lower pace. I shut down the pc, unplugged pump cable, waited for the pc to cool down. When I restarted the pc to bios and waited, the temp rise was almost the same as when the pump was connected.

The AIO is still under warranty. I will be contacting the store and try to return it.

Seems like you either got a goo situation clogging the flow or a pump problem. Sounds like its time for a new AIO or air cooler.
 
Reactions: helper800

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