Question Ryzen 9 3900X High Idle Temperatures and Voltages

Sep 28, 2020
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Hi, installed my new Ryzen 9 3900X, Asus X570-Plus Wifi, be quiet! Pure Rock 2 and Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200 MHz yesterday and I'm seeing this problem where voltage and temperatures seem pretty high. Here is my HW Monitor screenshot View: https://imgur.com/a/JZnyuxJ

My setup list https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDVVq3 ). It usually stays around those values. As per this post
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/cbls9g View: https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/cbls9g/the_final_word_on_idle_voltages_for_3rd_gen_ryzen/

I tried installing newest chipset driver which atm is version 2.07.14.327 but it didn't help. I tried using different energy-saving plans in Windows ( ltsc version) and all my bios setting are set to default. Neither of those helped and I'm having the same issue.
 

iiSlashr

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Mar 10, 2019
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That CPU cooler is rated for 150W TDP CPUs, while your 3900X hits up to 220W. I'd go for at least a higher end tower cooler, if not an AIO for something that high-end. Also, that 1070 is a not-so-great pairing for a top-of-the-line CPU like the 3900X, so if you're playing games you'll notice that bottleneck. I'd recommend going for the 3080 now or waiting for the 3070 to save a buck.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
WHICH power plan are you currently running and what is the "minimum processor power state" in that plan set to?

Is Precision boost overdrive (PBO/PBO2) enabled in the BIOS? Precision boost is not the same as Precision boost OVERDRIVE, which is something that board manufacturers configure to allow Ryzen CPUs to exceed the AMD specification for TDP to some degree and boost to higher clocks. If it is enabled, I would disable it, for now at least, and re-check your voltage and thermal readings with it disabled.

You can leave the normal Precision boost/XFR2 enabled.

Also, that cooler is 100% not sufficient for that CPU. For a 3900x or 3950x, I wouldn't recommend running an air cooler that wasn't an extra thick or double tower heatsink model, or some variation of 280mm or larger AIO cooler, assuming a custom loop isn't an option.

Also, make sure you have the MOST recent motherboard BIOS version installed. That might be the single most important thing for any motherboard these days.
 
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Sep 28, 2020
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WHICH power plan are you currently running and what is the "minimum processor power state" in that plan set to?

Is Precision boost overdrive (PBO/PBO2) enabled in the BIOS? Precision boost is not the same as Precision boost OVERDRIVE, which is something that board manufacturers configure to allow Ryzen CPUs to exceed the AMD specification for TDP to some degree and boost to higher clocks. If it is enabled, I would disable it, for now at least, and re-check your voltage and thermal readings with it disabled.

You can leave the normal Precision boost/XFR2 enabled.

Also, that cooler is 100% not sufficient for that CPU. For a 3900x or 3950x, I wouldn't recommend running an air cooler that wasn't an extra thick or double tower heatsink model, or some variation of 280mm or larger AIO cooler, assuming a custom loop isn't an option.

Also, make sure you have the MOST recent motherboard BIOS version installed. That might be the single most important thing for any motherboard these days.
I'm running Balanced (recommended) with minimum processor power state at 5%.
I do have the most recent motherboard bios installed. Did that yesterday after I've put cpu in so that can't be that.
Precision boost overdrive was on auto, I've put it on disabled and it's still the same. Any other ideas to fix this problem?

Could you name drop a few good coolers that I could use for my system? I'm planning on replacing a few other things like psu, case and disks, so I could technically get more space for new cooler if needed.
I'll return this cooler as it's not compatible. I'd prefer air coolers as I've never installed any other.
 
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Sep 28, 2020
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That CPU cooler is rated for 150W TDP CPUs, while your 3900X hits up to 220W. I'd go for at least a higher end tower cooler, if not an AIO for something that high-end. Also, that 1070 is a not-so-great pairing for a top-of-the-line CPU like the 3900X, so if you're playing games you'll notice that bottleneck. I'd recommend going for the 3080 now or waiting for the 3070 to save a buck.
Thanks for the info about the cooler not being suitable for my cpu, but I don't think it's the problem that I'm having at the moment. For some reason my cpu is running on high voltage when idle, which puts it to high temperature. As per Reddit post that I linked it looks like other people had the same problem but the steps in that post aiming to fix it didn't help me so that's why I turned to this forum for help. Any recommendations for coolers I could get for this Cpu though?
 
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dimtodim

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Sep 4, 2018
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Hi, installed my new Ryzen 9 3900X, Asus X570-Plus Wifi, be quiet! Pure Rock 2 and Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200 MHz yesterday and I'm seeing this problem where voltage and temperatures seem pretty high. Here is my HW Monitor screenshot View: https://imgur.com/a/JZnyuxJ

My setup list https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDVVq3 ). It usually stays around those values. As per this post
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/cbls9g View: https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/cbls9g/the_final_word_on_idle_voltages_for_3rd_gen_ryzen/

I tried installing newest chipset driver which atm is version 2.07.14.327 but it didn't help. I tried using different energy-saving plans in Windows ( ltsc version) and all my bios setting are set to default. Neither of those helped and I'm having the same issue.
offset voltage -0.1...and buy better cooler dark rock pro 4 or noctua d15...and its normal for ryzen jumping temp and voltage go up and down...my temp under load is 33-40, CinebenchR20 score 7128 temp around 70...i dont overclock my cpu
 
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dimtodim

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Hello, what do you mean by offset voltage -0.1? I'll have a look into those 2 coolers thanks, but I don't think my cooler is the problem in this particular issue that I have, as per my reply to iiSlashr.
PBO disable...in bios cpu voltage settings...u can offset voltage. and use in power plan 10 ryzen balance plan. what pc case u have...ryzen must have good airflow...
 
Sep 28, 2020
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PBO disable...in bios cpu voltage settings...u can offset voltage. and use in power plan 10 ryzen balance plan. what pc case u have...ryzen must have good airflow...
I already disabled PBO earlier, you can see in response #4. I'll try with offset voltage. I tried changing to all power plans available already, I don't think the work for me at all. I'll edit this post when I change offset voltage.
Edit. Offseting the voltage didn't do anything.
 
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dimtodim

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I already disabled PBO earlier, you can see in response #4. I'll try with offset voltage. I tried changing to all power plans available already, I don't think the work for me at all. I'll edit this post when I change offset voltage.
Update bios with last driver also... But if u want low temp think about new cooler and what case u have do u have extra fans?
 

beorn

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Do exactly what DimtoDim said. Negative offset voltage 0.1 and no OC on. Works great for my 3900X too. Idles 30-40 range mostly, 7250-7350 Cinebench multi score, max temps around 71 C. I am using a Noctua U12S which is a fantastic cooler for its $60 price tag
 
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Sep 28, 2020
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Use HWINFO64 or Ryzen Master for temp reading
View: https://imgur.com/a/uBlK26l

Seems ok now? It's on -0.1V as dimtodim recommended. It still shows the same values in CPUID HWMonitor as in the first post though, so maybe it was the program? idk


Update bios with last driver also... But if u want low temp think about new cooler and what case u have do u have extra fans?
I did update bios yesterday Check screenshot in this post. Seems ok at around 1.12V now, but it's in different pogram. It shows an average of around 43 celcius now. I don't think I will get any better temperatures with this cooler. I'm gonna return this one and get a better one. Do you recommend any case and cooler for my setup because I'm gonna get both at the same time? This is my system https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDVVq3
 

dimtodim

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Sep 4, 2018
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Do exactly what DimtoDim said. Negative offset voltage 0.1 and no OC on. Works great for my 3900X too. Idles 30-40 range mostly, 7250-7350 Cinebench multi score, max temps around 71 C. I am using a Noctua U12S which is a fantastic cooler for its $60 price tag
What is your memory speed that is really great score...
 
Sep 28, 2020
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Do exactly what DimtoDim said. Negative offset voltage 0.1 and no OC on. Works great for my 3900X too. Idles 30-40 range mostly, 7250-7350 Cinebench multi score, max temps around 71 C. I am using a Noctua U12S which is a fantastic cooler for its $60 price tag
Done. Check post #13. Any recommendation for a case? I'll be getting new one with my new cooler. I'll consider the one you recommended and the ones Dimtodim recommended as well.
 

dimtodim

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View: https://imgur.com/a/uBlK26l

Seems ok now? It's on -0.1V as dimtodim recommended. It still shows the same values in CPUID HWMonitor as in the first post though, so maybe it was the program? idk




I did update bios yesterday Check screenshot in this post. Seems ok at around 1.12V now, but it's in different pogram. It shows an average of around 43 celcius now. I don't think I will get any better temperatures with this cooler. I'm gonna return this one and get a better one. Do you recommend any case and cooler for my setup because I'm gonna get both at the same time? This is my system https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDVVq3
Looks fine now
 

dimtodim

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Done. Check post #13. Any recommendation for a case? I'll be getting new one with my new cooler. I'll consider the one you recommended and the ones Dimtodim recommended as well.
For case buy any case with front mesh panel full open for air and install fans on front and top case what is your budget?
 

dimtodim

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View: https://imgur.com/a/uBlK26l

Seems ok now? It's on -0.1V as dimtodim recommended. It still shows the same values in CPUID HWMonitor as in the first post though, so maybe it was the program? idk




I did update bios yesterday Check screenshot in this post. Seems ok at around 1.12V now, but it's in different pogram. It shows an average of around 43 celcius now. I don't think I will get any better temperatures with this cooler. I'm gonna return this one and get a better one. Do you recommend any case and cooler for my setup because I'm gonna get both at the same time? This is my system https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VDVVq3
Try install extra fans on this case first and see results... Case isnt perfect but try
 

beorn

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What is your memory speed that is really great score...
Hmm...Same as yours. 32 gb 3200 mhz RAM. 4 sticks of 8 GB. Definitely scores better at room temp, was around 7100s in late summer. Those scores can vary for different reasons, and it's just a benchmark, so I really don't pay much attention to them, unless it's sizeably lower than normal
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
For air, this.


Below is my list of preferred CPU AIR coolers, also known as Heatsink fans (HSF).

Do not look here for recommendations on water/liquid cooling solutions. There are none to be found.

BEFORE seriously considering ANY cooler, make sure to compare it's height with the maximum CPU cooler height supported by your case. If a cooler won't fit, then there isn't much point in looking at it anyhow unless you are willing to replace the case with a larger, more accomodating model. It should probably go without saying that the recommendations below are NOT intended for systems that incorporate small form factor or mini ITX type enclosures. These are generally for standard ATX tower cases. For recommendations on coolers for very small enclosures, there are many of us around here that can offer some suggestions based on the use case.

A good air cooler works just as well for most applications. There are very few instances I can think of where an AIO will work better than a good air cooler, and even fewer where an AIO will outperform an air cooler if you are willing to buy the right air cooler and then level up by adding some even higher end fans to it.

Loops leak. Heatsinks don't. Pumps fail, FAR more often and usually with far worse consequences, than fans do.

And unlike a heatsink fan assembly, when your pump fails for 99% of AIO coolers, you will be replacing the whole thing, for another 100+ dollars, rather than just a 25 dollar investment for the failure of a fan. Especially since I've rarely seen dual fan coolers have both fans fail at the same time, but even if you factor in two fan failures that's still only about fifty bucks compared to the 100+ it will cost to replace an AIO with a failed pump. And you WILL have a failed pump on most AIO coolers within three years of purchase. Seeing one last longer than five years is possible, but it is not particularly common and we often, very often, see them fail at around the 3 year mark. Sometimes much sooner.

Pump quality and longevity is an area that needs GREAT improvement before AIO coolers will become a primary recommendation for me.

I see a lot of AIO coolers leak and damage hardware as well.

Certainly there are situations where an AIO is called for, or even preferred, but those are MOSTLY aesthetic considerations, because let's face it, a build with an AIO or custom loop generally "looks" a lot cleaner than one that has a big heatsink taking up half the real estate inside your case. When that is the case, I have recommendations for those as well, but I don't offer them unless somebody is specifically asking to go that route.[/B]

They are basically listed in order of preference, from top to bottom. To some degree that preference is based on known performance on similarly overclocked configurations, but not entirely. There are likely a couple of units that are placed closer to the top not because they offer purely better performance than another cooler which is below it, but potentially due to a variety of reasons.

One model might be placed higher than another with the same or similar performance, but has quieter or higher quality fans. It may have the same performance but a better warranty. Long term quality may be higher. It may be less expensive in some cases. Maybe it performs slightly worse, but has quieter fans and a better "fan pitch". Some fans with equal decibel levels do not "sound" like they are the same as the specific pitch heard from one fan might be less annoying than another.

In any case, these are not "tiered" and are not a 100% be all, end all ranking. They are simply MY preference when looking at coolers for a build or when making recommendations. Often, which HSF gets chosen depends on what is on this list and fits the budget or is priced right at the time due to a sale or rebate. Hopefully it will help you and you can rest assured that every cooler listed here is a model that to some degree or other is generally a quality unit which is a lot more likely to be worth the money spent on it than on many other models out there that might look to be a similarly worthwhile investment.

Certainly there are a great many other very good coolers out there, but these are models which are usually available to most anybody building a system or looking for a cooler, regardless of what part of the world they might live in. As always, professional reviews are usually an absolutely essential part of the process of finding a cooler so if you are looking at a model not listed here, I would highly recommend looking at at least two or three professional reviews first.

If you cannot find two reviews of any given cooler, it is likely either too new to have been reviewed yet or it sucked, and nobody wanted to buy one in order to review it plus the manufacturer refused to send samples out to the sites that perform reviews because they knew it would likely get bad publicity.

IMO, nobody out there is making better fans, overall, than Noctua, followed pretty closely by Thermalright. So if you intend to match case fans to the same brand on your HSF, those are pretty hard to beat. Of course, Corsair has it's Maglev fans, and those are pretty damn good too, but they tend to be more expensive than what are in my opinion better fans by these other two, so while they are good products they don't have the same noise characteristics and are probably better suited for configurations where sheer brute force is preferred over low noise that still gives good performance. Also, as with most fan models out there, don't look at the specifications for the non-RGB Maglev fan models and think that you'll be getting the same specs on any RGB versions, because you won't. Fans with RGB tend to sacrifice both maximum CFM and static pressure for the right to stuff the RGB electronics under the hood.


Noctua NH-D14 (Replace stock fans with NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000rpm)
Noctua NH-D15/D15 SE-AM4
Noctua NH-D14 (With original fans)
Thermalright Silver arrow IB-E Extreme
Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Universal
Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4
Thermalright Legrand Macho RT
Phanteks PH-TC14PE (BK,BL, OR or RD)
Deepcool Assassin III
Thermalright Macho X2



It may not be obvious, but is probably worth mentioning, that not all cooler models will fit all CPU sockets as aftermarket coolers generally require an adapter intended for use with that socket. Some coolers that fit an AMD platform might not fit a later AMD platform, or an Intel platform. Often these coolers come with adapters for multiple types of platforms but be sure to verify that a specific cooler WILL work with your platform before purchasing one and finding out later that it will not.

For AIO coolers, I'd recommend any top rated 280, 360 or 420mm models, based on what your case and wallet can support. AIO coolers are not all the same AND you are NOT likely going to get the same performance out of an AIO that focuses largely on it's RGB bling factor as one that has it's primary focus on the quality and airflow characteristics of the fans. Furthermore, getting a good 280mm AIO and slapping a pair of Noctua NF-A14's on there, or even the A14 iPPC industrial 2000rpm fans, wouldn't be the absolutel worst thing you ever did either. But any of the big air coolers SHOULD be able to handle the job if you are adverse to running a liquid cooler.


As far as the settings side of things is concerned, I would check that ALL of these are set as follows in the BIOS.

BIOS on latest version.............check. We already know this is good.

Cool N Quiet - Enabled

Core CPPC - Enabled

CPPC preferred cores - Enabled

Advanced/Global C-states - Enabled

PBO/PBO2 - Disabled, for now at least.

Also, much as I hate to steer anybody to another forum, this particular thread goes over most of these concerns in some detail, and I'm referring to it only so that much of what's discussed there doesn't have to be completely rehashed again here, as not a lot has changed since then, if anything. Might be something in there that's helpful. I have not played around with tweaking any of the Ryzen 9 CPUs yet. I've only worked with a handful, five or six, of the Ryzen 5 and 7 parts. Probably be getting a Ryzen 9 when the 5000 series models release later this year.

 

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