Ryzen Build Crashing/Freezing

[Omnicidal]

Key Components
Mobo: ASUS ROG Strix B350-F Gaming
CPU: Ryzen 5 1600x
GPU: Radeon RX 480 8gb
RAM: 2x8gb G.Skill Trident Z
PSU: EVGA 80+ Certified 500w

Background
I just built this system, it went to POST, BIOS, and then Windows booted up. Everything at this point is fine; it's a fresh install of Windows 10, and all of the comonents were tested and are working fine.

Steps I took
I installed the drivers from a DVD included with the mobo, and then installed Google Chrome and Steam. I launched Steam and shortly after, the display shut off. I immediately power cycled my monitor, and nothing changed.

Nothing was being downloaded; no files were being moved; and nothing was happening in the background. Knowing this, I did a soft shut down and booted the system back up. I got video again, and decided to wait a few minutes. The screen froze and, after a while, I switched the power off on the back of the case.

I turned the system on again and got no video. The yellow LED to the left of the DIMM slots was on and didn't change. Normally it would go from yellow, to red, to white, and then to green. I believe they are debug lights, but there was nothing in the manual that mentioned them and I couldn't find anything about them online(After hours of testing, I have come to believe and the green LED is BIOS. I have no clue what the others could be).

I turned the power off again, and took basic steps to figure out the problem ie: making sure nothing was shorting out, switching GPUs, checking the pins on everything. Eventually I was able to boot by switching the RAM cards around, which I thought was odd.

After a while, it froze again and I was able to get back into windows by switching the RAM cards again(REALLY weird).

This repeated itself again, and I used a jumper to reset the CMOS. It booted, and then froze again. The entire cycle of problems repeated.

Frustrated, I decided to quickly go into Windows recovery and reset the PC before it crashed again. After a few minutes into the reset, the display shut off and the yellow LED started flashing.

Again, I shut the system off, switched the RAM around, and got Windows to boot. I tried resetting the PC again, this time it froze and I decided to wait a few hours.

When I returned, the system was on but there was no display. I turned it off, hoping that it would've reset properly. I got into Windows and saw that all my files were still there. The reset undid itself.

I waited for a bit longer to see if anything happens. When I thought it was in the clear, I started up steam and began installing a game.

Everything seemed normal, so I began to use it like I normally would. But, as soon as I started watching a video on YT, the system froze again.

I shut it off and turn it back on again, only to be greeted by the yellow LED next to the DIMM slots, again.

I got back into Windows by, again, moving the RAM around. With no hesitation, I deactivate Windows and prepare the harddrive to be wiped clean so I can reinstall on basically what's about to be a virgin HDD.

Afterthought
I havent wiped the drive yet, and I'm pretty sure that I don't have to do this, but I want to know that it wasn't a random software problem. I suspect it's a hardware issue, but that thought doesn't sit right with me. I tested all of the components and all of them were detectable and functional. If it is a hardware problem, I am at a complete lost.

Please help a builder who's been slowly losing his mind over the course of this week.

 

[Darkbreeze]

First thing I'd do is make absolutely certain that every connection in the case is fully seated. Unplug and reseat all the SATA data and power cables, GPU supplemental power cables, the 8 pin EPS12v and 24 pin ATX motherboard power connectors, the graphics card and memory AND if this is a modular power supply, all of the connections to the power supply.

Troubleshooting]http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems]Troubleshooting common no display or new build problems[/url]

Also, make certain that the CPU cooler is equally seated all the way around. The memory controller is generally located in the CPU these days, and there are a lot of cases where the CPU cooler is not seated equally on all sides, or one corner is loose, which can cause some of the CPU pins to lose contact and create mysterious memory issues. This is more common on systems with a stock CPU cooler or coolers that use the stock mounting hardware configuration, but it can happen with any CPU cooler. Make certain it is evenly and fully seated on all side and none of the mounting hardware has come loose.


Next, try booting with only a single stick of RAM installed in whichever slot the motherboard manual has designated for single module operation. And yes, it makes a difference where they are located and it's different for every motherboard so check the manual to see which slots it says to use for one module, which slots for two, etc. The population rules WILL be outlined in the manual. Modules in the wrong slots or in slots that were not intended for dual module and dual channel operation can create issues sometimes.

If it IS a memory module related issue, this article, written by our resident memory expert Tradesman1 is an excellent resource and is easily understandable even by fairly inexperienced builders.


DRAMit by Tradesman1


Next, what is the EXACT model of your EVGA power supply. Evga has some fantastic power supplies made for them by Super Flower (B2, G2, G3, P2, T2) but they also have some incredibly lousy ones as well. And if it's one of the new B series units, I'd see if you can return it immediately as they have tested very poorly and in some cases have been shown to explode when the overprotection has failed.

Knowing exactly what your model number is will allow us to at least determine if there is a probability of an issue with that, or possibly rule it mostly out as a cause. At the least we'll know if it's a known good or known poor model.

 

[Omnicidal]

First thing I'd do is make absolutely certain that every connection in the case is fully seated. Unplug and reseat all the SATA data and power cables, GPU supplemental power cables, the 8 pin EPS12v and 24 pin ATX motherboard power connectors, the graphics card and memory AND if this is a modular power supply, all of the connections to the power supply.

Also, make certain that the CPU cooler is equally seated all the way around. The memory controller is generally located in the CPU these days, and there are a lot of cases where the CPU cooler is not seated equally on all sides, or one corner is loose, which can cause some of the CPU pins to lose contact and create mysterious memory issues. This is more common on systems with a stock CPU cooler or coolers that use the stock mounting hardware configuration, but it can happen with any CPU cooler. Make certain it is evenly and fully seated on all side and none of the mounting hardware has come loose.

Next, try booting with only a single stick of RAM installed in whichever slot the motherboard manual has designated for single module operation. And yes, it makes a difference where they are located and it's different for every motherboard so check the manual to see which slots it says to use for one module, which slots for two, etc. The population rules WILL be outlined in the manual. Modules in the wrong slots or in slots that were not intended for dual module and dual channel operation can create issues sometimes.

Next, what is the EXACT model of your EVGA power supply. Evga has some fantastic power supplies made for them by Super Flower (B2, G2, G3, P2, T2) but they also have some incredibly lousy ones as well. And if it's one of the new B series units, I'd see if you can return it immediately as they have tested very poorly and in some cases have been shown to explode when the overprotection has failed.

Knowing exactly what your model number is will allow us to at least determine if there is a probability of an issue with that, or possibly rule it mostly out as a cause. At the least we'll know if it's a known good or known poor model.

I've tried everything that you mentioned, but I probably should've mentioned exactly how weird the RAM situation was. Sometimes it would only boot with 1 stick, and other times it needed 2. The DIMM slots that would work in between crashes would be completely random. I got Windows to boot using 1 stick in all slots at least twice each, and with 2 sticks in all configurations at least once. It would crash and not work unless the RAM was in a different configuration, only to crash again and need a completely different configuration.
I felt like I was in an episode of Twilight Zone!

Also, the power supply supply was from a previous system that was a prebuilt, and still has their logo plastered on it. I believe it's a G2 and I have had no issues with it ever since I've had it.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, you may be right about the PSU but I'll just throw this out there for your consideration.

"Nobody EVER had an issue with their power supply, until they did" AND most power supply issues become evident through small, seemingly unrelated symptoms until the system finally decides to either not work at all or repeatedly simply shut down.

Your memory issue definitely sounds like it is either related to the potential issues I've seen with CPU coolers that were not seated right, which can cock the CPU in the socket and either create open or intermittent connections through the memory controller

or

faulty memory

or

a motherboard issue. It's also completely possible that somehow (Not necessarily in YOUR case, but in MANY cases involving memory issues) one or more of the CPU/motherboard pins was bent or contacts on the CPU were scratched/damaged somehow. It may be necessary to remove the CPU cooler and double check with a magnifying glass or high strength reading glasses that all pins and contacts are pristine. And also that the CPU cooler mount is correct.

Might also want to make absolutely sure that no loose screws, standoffs or anything else got accidentally pinched in between the case and motherboard. I've seen that happen even to very experienced builders that didn't realize something had rolled under the board while they were mounting it to the case and had them chasing ghosts for days trying to figure it out and then turned out to be something be shorted or grounded from the backside of the motherboard to the case.


If you have, or can borrow, a totally different single stick of compatible memory to test the system with, you could hopefully at least eliminate the possibility of YOUR memory modules having any kind of problem.

Also, please list the exact part number of your memory modules so I can check a few things. Do you know off hand what the specifications for the modules you purchased is? Voltage, speed, etc.

And did you set up the memory profile in the BIOS? From what I hear, the Intel XMP settings work with Ryzen/DDR4 memory. I haven't had the opportunity to configure a Ryzen system yet, but I've done extensive reading on the intricacies of it.

https://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/article/615223/ryzen-works-xmp-memory-profiles/

I know Ryzen and it's hardware does not tend to like speeds over 2666mhz, so if your memory is set higher than that it could be contributing to the problem. Could also simply need more voltage in the memory settings of the BIOS.

 

[Vic 40]

The G2 doesn't come in 500watt so doubt it's that or you wrote the wattage wrong in first post.

Have you tried updating the bios? Last one is from pretty recent,

Version 3203 from 2017/11/17

 

[Insomniac Jack]

When I built my Ryzen build back in march it took 4 to 5 hours of updates before I even tried installing any games or using the system. Update the BIOS to the current revision. Ryzen has had many to help with stability issues just like this. Update windows fully. Then update everything with the latest drivers. Many times the drivers on the MOBO CD aren't the most current version. They could be 1 or more revisions behind. I'd do all of that before I'd suspect any hardware issue.

 

[tsnor]

this ---> "I installed the drivers from a DVD included with the mobo,"

The physical disk drivers are likely from very very early in Ryzen support. I would update these with the drivers from the MB makers website or via windows update.

this --> 2x8gb G.Skill Trident Z

Run with only one stick and see if the problems go away. If not swap. Ryzen is known VERY memory sensitive. Once system is stable make sure you are on a current BIOS level, many MB makers shipped BIOS updates to help Ryzen with memory problems.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Run with only one stick and see if the problems go away. If not swap. Ryzen is known VERY memory sensitive. Once system is stable make sure you are on a current BIOS level, many MB makers shipped BIOS updates to help Ryzen with memory problems.

IF you had read his posts, you would know that he had already done this, and then some. And that three people have already suggested that updating the bios and drivers is a good idea. While having multiple people suggest the same thing is often good, reinforcing the directive, there comes a point where additional recommendations to the same effect become pretty redundant. Just saying.

 

[Omnicidal]

Funny enough, if the problem is either the cooler not seating the CPU properly or the PSU, it'll be fixed soon. I have an AIO from CoolerMaster coming in, as well as a modular PSU from EVGA.

I have never heard of Ryzen being iffy with high speed memory, this info is new to me. I've always heard that it's better with higher speeds.

 

[Darkbreeze]

It IS better with higher speeds, as are ALL systems, however, that doesn't mean it can EASILY be run at higher speeds and be stable.

A GREAT deal of tweaking, installing the latest bios and chipset drivers and having the very best memory IC's available are all factors on whether or not a system, any system, not just Ryzen, will run with higher speed RAM or will run into a wall where higher speed memory is not possible.

By "higher speeds", most users out there are referring to using 2666mhz modules/speeds versus using 2133mhz models/speeds. Some users may also have done better in the silicone lottery than others, having scored processors that are able to achieve higher overclocks which definitely assists in being able to run higher clocked memory with any semblance of stability.

Also, if you have not bothered to check the bios in order to determine what speed, voltage and settings the memory is running at, much less attempting to set it at the default system SPD, in an effort to see if reduced settings provide more stability, then all the rest may not end up making much difference. If it is strictly a memory issue, then no model of power supply or totally flat CPU cooler installation is going to remedy the problem, but I guess you'll see what you'll see at that time.

 

[Omnicidal]

It IS better with higher speeds, as are ALL systems, however, that doesn't mean it can EASILY be run at higher speeds and be stable.

A GREAT deal of tweaking, installing the latest bios and chipset drivers and having the very best memory IC's available are all factors on whether or not a system, any system, not just Ryzen, will run with higher speed RAM or will run into a wall where higher speed memory is not possible.

By "higher speeds", most users out there are referring to using 2666mhz modules/speeds versus using 2133mhz models/speeds. Some users may also have done better in the silicone lottery than others, having scored processors that are able to achieve higher overclocks which definitely assists in being able to run higher clocked memory with any semblance of stability.

Also, if you have not bothered to check the bios in order to determine what speed, voltage and settings the memory is running at, much less attempting to set it at the default system SPD, in an effort to see if reduced settings provide more stability, then all the rest may not end up making much difference. If it is strictly a memory issue, then no model of power supply or totally flat CPU cooler installation is going to remedy the problem, but I guess you'll see what you'll see at that time.

I was able to get into the UEFI and it's reading the memory at 2133mhz. It crashed again while I was looking, which was a first.

I would really like to know what the debug LEDs mean, and why Asus didn't include it in the manual.

 

[Darkbreeze]

What code is showing?

If you are crashing in the bios then there is something wrong on a basic hardware level.

Could be memory, GPU card, motherboard, CPU related issue, storage device. Hard to know without the code, and even sometimes then.

However, if you do not have version 3203 (Released the 17th of this month) of the BIOS installed you need to do that, like, now.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-B350-F-GAMING/HelpDesk_Download/

 

[Vic 40]

I would really like to know what the debug LEDs mean, and why Asus didn't include it in the manual.

Looked at the manual and se no mentioning of debug leds at all,so what or which are you talking about anyway?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Are we even talking about the right hardware here? What are you ACTUALLY using including version numbers?