Question Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 (G95SC) — No Display, Flashing Power Red LED, Rear RGB Sometimes Turns On

[iKokomo]

Whenever I plug in my Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 (model G95SC), the red power LED starts flashing every few seconds.

If I try to turn it on (either with the remote or the button on the back), the rear RGB lighting occasionally turns on, but the screen remains black. the red power LED starts flashing slower than before—about once every 15–20 seconds.

When I connect it to my Mac, the Mac briefly detects the monitor, but then it loses the connection and starts the cycle again.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Is there a known fix or firmware recovery method for this model when there's no display at all? Is there a circuit board or EEPROM (I have done that before)that I can replace? The panel itself is in great shape.

I have a video of the issue.

 

[BFG-9000]

Due presumably to too many failures with previous G9 models with a 3yr warranty, Samsung only ever offered 1yr on that particular model with an optional extra two years for $89.95. And it came out 2 years ago.

Generally with other flat panel displays, it's often the capacitors on the power board, which requires a lot of tricky disassembly to get to. On your display however, you have a giant external power brick so could just try plugging in another one.

 

[iKokomo]

Due presumably to too many failures with previous G9 models with a 3yr warranty, Samsung only ever offered 1yr on that particular model with an optional extra two years for $89.95. And it came out 2 years ago.

Generally with other flat panel displays, it's often the capacitors on the power board, which requires a lot of tricky disassembly to get to. On your display however, you have a giant external power brick so could just try plugging in another one.

Thanks! I do have a giant external power brick. They are expensive to replace. Before I get a new one, how do I test it to see if that is the issue?

 

[BFG-9000]

Easiest to try an aftermarket model from a place where it could be easily returned. I know that sounds kinda sketchy especially as it's a whopping 11A @ 20vDC PSU to supply the rated 220w, but I don't think any place sells the genuine one that way without the monitor part too.

What usually fails is the capacitors inside, which leads to so much ripple/dirty power that something malfunctions. You would normally look for this on an oscilloscope but even a multimeter set to "AC" will give you an average value for the noise (you have to try the leads in both "polarities" even though it's set on AC, when checking mostly DC), however the trick is when you do this, the PSU must be under load.