Seeking reviews and advice on my first build for work and play

volcanoscout · Jan 5, 2014

I've spent many days reviewing articles and posts in order to configure a desktop. I'm looking at this configuration posting as my semi-final exam (my final will be actually building the machine), so any feedback at all would be much appreciated.

Here is the component list: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/TedT/saved/3l3I

This rig will be 50/50 work and gaming. Work will mostly be Office 2013 applications, with photo and (very basic) video editing. Gaming will be single monitor, 1080p, first-person shooter and flight simulators. Overclocking will be mild (to start). Budget is $3K.

The two 120mm Noctua fans will replace the H100i stock fans, and the 140mm fans will replace the stock case fans. I don't plan to SLI near-term, but would like to retain the option to add a GPU and one or two additional monitors.

My goals, in order of importance:
1. Reliable
2. Fast
3. Quiet
4. Reasonably able to upgrade CPU and GPU (components and config) without needing new MB, PSU, etc, for at least a few years.

Some questions:

What pieces/parts/materials do you recommend to have on hand when building, that are not normally supplied with the components?

Any compelling reasons to go with a larger OS drive than 256 GB?

aevm · Jan 5, 2014

Very good choices.

Add another GTX 770 in a year or two, the PSU you have picked will support it.

256GB is plenty for an OS and programs IMO.

Scoutdrago3 · Jan 5, 2014

-Review: Nice build. Tried to find some faults and I found none so far. Its a well thought out build with high quality parts. Good job dude.

-Tips: Make sure to keep that CPU under 65-70 degrees Celsius under load(Using programs like games and Adobe). And no, 256GB is way more than enough of SSD space. Also install all the programs you want to start on your computers boot(startup) on your SSD so that startup can be much faster. Some tools you might want to get are a philips(+) screwdriver and if you want to be 100% safe with all parts, this is not needed, you can get a anti-static wristband. Those keep you from shocking your hardware and potentially kill them(they won't work anymore). You could buy it but as long as you are electrically discharged you have nothing to worry about. Each case is different so you might need some other tools but most cases only need a philips screwdriver.

That's about it. If you have any other questions feel free to ask, and I hope I helped you 😉

Side Note: Windows 7 is less than 20GBs after being installed.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2vQnP) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2vQnP/by_merchant/) / [Benchmarks](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2vQnP/benchmarks/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74770k) | $319.99 @ SuperBiiz
good
**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-cpu-cooler-h100i) | $114.99 @ NCIX US
good cooler but you might want to look at the ones from nxxt (kraken) since they have longer hoses. both would support some decent o/c. an alternate would be the nh-d14 air cooler.
**Motherboard** | [Asus SABERTOOTH Z87 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-sabertoothz87) | $239.99 @ SuperBiiz
the plastic heat shield is junk. it gets clogged with dust and works against itself. if you want a high end i'd go with a maximus hero, gene or similar.
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f312800cl10d16gbxl) | $159.99 @ NCIX US
[/b] if you were fine with going with 4x4gb (still 16gb) you can get 1866 cas9 for $68 each ($136 total) by buying two kits with promo code on newegg for ripjaws x series 2x4 (buy two kits)[/b]
**Storage** | [Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7pd256bw) | $214.00 @ B&H
great drive. personally i have a 512 and if its going to be your main drive i'd go bigger but if you only plan on using it for a few programs and perhaps just a few files 256 is fine
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd2002faex) | $146.98 @ OutletPC
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd2002faex) | $146.98 @ OutletPC
just be careful with larger drives. the greater than 1tb drives have a higher failure rate. back up your data often. i'm on my 5th dead drive myself
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-gtx770dc2oc2gd5) | $349.99 @ NCIX US
decent card and should be able to handle gaming at good settings at 1080p. perhaps not maxing out ultra completely on the newest games (bf4) but its good enough for very high at least.
**Wireless Network Adapter** | [Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-wireless-network-card-pcen15) | $26.99 @ B&H
your choice here though plugging in with a cable is better
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr4bl) | $109.99 @ NCIX US
not a terrible case but open face designs are better for cooling. i looked at this case today (took a trip down to microcenter) and i'd be worried about airflow being limited despite the fact that it has 2 front fans. behind the panel there isnt much room for the air to flow in. i'd go with something like a 200r, 300r, 500r, c70, 600t (all corsair) or other similar open front designs. the more fan slots the better.
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $23.99 @ SuperBiiz
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $23.99 @ SuperBiiz
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nfa14pwm) | $21.98 @ NCIX US
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nfa14pwm) | $21.98 @ NCIX US
**Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nfa14pwm) | $21.98 @ NCIX US
your choice but make sure you have more inflow than outflow
**Power Supply** | [SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-platinum860) | $183.98 @ SuperBiiz
a bit expensive and you could likely go with something a bit cheaper and with a bit less wattage but it works and is rock solid
**Optical Drive** | [Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-drw24b1stblkbas) | $19.98 @ OutletPC
your choice
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit)](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-fqc06913) | $182.64 @ B&H
your choice but windows 8.1 is infuriating
**Monitor** | [Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vx238hw) | $129.99 @ Newegg
pick whatever you like here. a 2560x1440 monitor from dell is great for productivity though requires stronger parts to game at this resolution. its possible on the budget with some tweaking
**Keyboard** | [Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Wired Gaming Keyboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-keyboard-jqd00001) | $49.98 @ OutletPC
your choice
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $2503.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-05 00:13 EST-0500 |

ingtar33 · Jan 5, 2014

oh wow... pricey pricey...

single monitor, 1080p gaming with a 72hz refresh rate? yeah... a bit overkill on the $$ spent... as you can accomplish that with a much cheaper build.

some thoughts... you don't need a corsair h100i, especially since this seems to be primarily a "quiet" build... those noctua fans will make poor water rad fans... so here is some playing around with the build... maybe save you a little cash in the process; the motherboard is basically identical to the sabretooth, only it doesn't have that unnecessary "thermal armor" (which is only useful if you plan to overclock with LN2).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($73.50 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($174.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($214.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($339.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($26.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($21.98 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($21.98 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($21.98 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit) ($182.64 @ B&H)
Monitor: Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2177.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-05 00:23 EST-0500)

volcanoscout · Jan 5, 2014

aevm :

Thanks much for the feedback - I burned a few brain cells trying to pick a good balance of quality, performance and price.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

you could definitely go cheaper... lots of wasted money that can be trimmed back like ingtar suggested.

but your choice of components.

realchaos · Jan 5, 2014

-No need for the Sabertooth. It's over-priced and over-rated.
-If you're only doing mild overclocking then you can just stick with the Hyper 212 EVO. It's a great, inexpensive cpu cooler that will allow for mild overclocking.
-You can get cheaper RAM for the same performance.
-The Samsung 840 EVO and Samsung 840 Pro performs similarly. In benchmarks, the Pro is faster but in real life, you won't notice the difference. Stick with the EVO as it is heaps cheaper.
-No need for the Caviar Black as your secondary drive. The Seagate Barracuda is plenty fast for a secondary drive.
-The Windowed version of the Define R4 is cheaper.
-No need for all of the extra fans. The Define R4 has two fans which is good enough to help direct airflow. You can add more in the future, but for now you'll be fine with the stock fans.
-Your psu is really expensive. You can get a high quality 850w psu for $105.
-You should go for an IPS monitor for better image quality.
-Instead of the rubber dome, you may want to try out mechanical keyboards. They feel much better and last much longer. As far as mechanical keyboard recommendations, it depends on what kind of Cherry MX switch you want.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($134.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($161.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N15 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($26.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - OEM (64-bit) ($137.97 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($154.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $1879.80
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-05 00:41 EST-0500)

You saved a lot of money and it still performs the same.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

there is a bigger difference between the 840evo and 840 pro and that is the type of flash used. the pro uses MLC the 840/840evo use TLC.

MLC is faster than TLC and it also has a longer lifespan.

volcanoscout · Jan 5, 2014

ingtar33 :

From everything I've read, the NF12 fans should work well on the H100i. As SSDDX mentions, the R4 is not a very open case so I'm concerned that the NH-D14 would upset the air inflow-outflow balance (or planned imbalance, in this case). It seems to me that having the rad at the top with two fans in pull would provide sufficient cooling for the CPU and leave a more unobstructed front-to-rear airflow from the case fans to exhaust the heat from all of the other components. Almost all of my (limited) computer experience is with laptops and mobile platforms, so this all guess-work on my part. Are you thinking that this cooling setup is just overkill, or that the D14 option would be a better solution? I'm okay with overkill - I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

you could use the d14 in a case like the r4 and be fine. your choice. the h100 just takes the mess off your motherboard which is nice.

remember the h100 comes with 2 fans. i think the r4 comes with fans too.

some of the money in the build could be spent elsewhere or it could be improved in a few ways... but technically everything should work

realchaos · Jan 5, 2014

Even though the 840 EVO is tlc, it is still just as fast as the 840 Pro in real life and it will last a long time as well.
Also, I would stick with air-cooling because it's quieter and safer (no worries about a leak). The CM Hyper 212 EVO is the perfect option as it is cheap and allows for mild overclocking, as the OP stated that he will only be doing mild overclocking. I see no point in spending $100 on a cpu cooler for mild overclocks.
The Define R4 doesn't have the best airflow, but there are holes on both sides of the front panel to allow for the fan to intake air. Again, it's not the best but it's enough and it's more optimized for silence over airflow.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

whether tlc or mlc is important or not depends on what kind of read/write the op needs. for example if they intend to constantly write/delete gb of data upon gb of data it might matter. for the average user however it doesnt.

i agree a 212evo is a good basic cooler. the d14 is overkill. the h100i is overkill but going overkill means you can dial back the fan speeds for "silence" as you say. the 212evo you couldnt dial back as much. up to the op what they want.

yes i am well aware of the r4 (i actually had a touch and feel session with one today) and i find the airflow a bit lacking (and i personally use a flat front case myself so i should know how it affects temps). while it would most certainly work fine lower temps and better airflow would be achieved with a different and more open case.

remember... having good airflow in with low rpm fans means quiet. creating a hotbox with limited airflow means the fans work harder so it might be louder in the long run. hard to say. of course just an educated opinion on the matter. the op can pick whatever they want.

realchaos · Jan 5, 2014

The Define R4 won't make the components hot. It provides enough airflow to keep it under decent temps. It's not the best, but it does the job. Also, there's no other case as silent as the Define R4. With all of the sound-dampening foam, even the Hyper 212 EVO will be quiet. It's not like the Define R4's stock fan will go 100% anyways.

volcanoscout · Jan 5, 2014

In no particular order:

I wish I could plug in, but right now it's wifi or nothing. I've got a good solid signal in my home office that's worked well for me so far.

I picked the Sabertooth mainly out of frustration. I've compared so many systems that the specs are starting to lose meaning for me. The Sabertooth just seemed like a reasonably safe option. The other three I was looking at were the Asus Pro, Expert and Hero. I'll have to revisit the specs and reviews.

The mild overclocking is just to start. Once I've got a good, solid system up and running, and I have some time to devote to educating myself on it, I plan to do some experimenting. I understand the i7-4770 is not ideal for overclocking, but it has enough headroom to get me started, and should do well for everything else I need it to do. That being said, I'd like all of the other components (PSU, CPU cooler, MB, etc) to be able to accommodate what I may end up doing, rather than what I start with. Hence, the 860W PSU, H100i, etc.

As far as the case goes, I'm not married to the R4, but I was impressed by its reviews regarding how quiet it is, as well as being easy to work with. My thinking is that if I get high quality cooling components (the H100i and Noctua fans) to go with it, I should be able to run them at less than max capacity and keep the system quiet AND cool in spite of the enclosure. I may be asking for too much. The C70 and 600T look like good alternatives, but how much increased noise will I get in return for the better ventilation? Also, I believe I read somewhere that the 600T had fan or fan controller issues?

Separate but related, the Asus 770 is supposed to have better cooling than the Gigabyte version, although I don't know the differential. Other than the price, does the Gigabyte have anything to recommend it over the Asus?

Evo vs Pro: Again this is from what I've read, above 256GB the performance difference is negligible. At 256GB and below, the 840 Pro is supposed to be measurably faster. The deciding factor for me is the 5 yr warranty vs the 3yr for the Evo. I will be riding it hard and putting it away wet.

realchaos · Jan 5, 2014

Don't worry, the Define R4 is one of the best mid-towers on the market. It's a very popular case for the reasons you stated: it's roomy, silent, and relatively cool.

volcanoscout · Jan 5, 2014

Also, I'm open to suggestions on keyboard and monitor. The ones I listed I just picked out after very cursory research.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

your choice on mobo. the sabertooth isnt "bad" and its a common pick. the hero is cheaper though and has many good options. the pro is cheaper yet without some of those options. just pick what has the options you like.

i agree with you on being prepared for the future. the i7 should overclock more than just a little bit. perhaps not too extreme but more than enough for you i would imagine.

open designs are best for low temps but are a bit louder. closed designs are better for noise but get hotter. for o/c i'd go open and just run decent fans on a low rpm. any open case will work, i'm just impressed with corsair cases (i own an obsidian 800d so perhaps i'm biased). there may be a fan controller issue.. dont know. you dont have to use it though.

the gigabyte version looks to be clocked higher. see if you can find a "gtx 770 roundup" which often compares different brand performances, power consumption, noise levels and temp levels. if i had to guess the giga would perform better but be higher temp and the asus at lower temps but a bit less performance. of course you could probably overclock them (google overclocking gtx770 if you want more details)

i went with a pro myself. great drive. good warranty. if you're going to be pushing it hard... pro is the one to get.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

perhaps i should state that i personally have a closed front case...

at idle i'm at 39c cpu 42c gpu after a few hours which isnt terrible (not really all that great either).

if i game my temps go up quite a bit over what the normal average is.

granted.... i dont have a high end cooler and i dont have fans going at full rpm but in comparison to my last case which was open front theres a big difference.

volcanoscout · Jan 5, 2014

ssddx :

I found this on the GTX 770 roundup search - http://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/feature-nvidia-geforce-gtx-770-custom-card-shootout/conclusion-150. According to this, not only does the Giga run faster, but it runs cooler also. Mark that up for one change. Looking at the prices, the Gigabyte GV-N770OC-2GD is $20 less, but the 4GB is only $23 more than Asus...hmmm.

ssddx · Jan 5, 2014

for a single monitor 2gb is normally fine but for $20 more i'd go 4gb.

realchaos · Jan 5, 2014

The keyboard depends on which Cherry MX switch you prefer. Read this: http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide#post_6009482
And then decide which Cherry MX switch you want. Once you decide on the switch, then we can help you decide on the keyboard.
Basically, Cherry MX Blue are the most preferred by typists because they make a loud, clicky sound and you feel a bump when the key is activated. Cherry MX Reds are more preferred by gamers because they don't have a clicky sound and you don't really feel the bump when the key is activated. Cherry MX Blacks are a heavy version of the Red, which means that it takes more force to push it down than a Red. The Browns are considered the mid-ground between Blues and Reds. You get the bump when the key activates, but you don't get the clicky sound of the Blue.
It's hard to decide just by reading, so if you can, try to find a computer shop near you that lets you try out some mechanical keyboards. I know some best buys have mechanical keyboards for you to test out.

For monitor, if you plan to go with a 1080p resolution, then you should definitely go for an IPS panel because they have better image quality which will help in photoshop. Or if you're feeling more high-end, you can go for an expensive 1440p panel for extremely good image quality. It may take more gpu power to max out games at 1440p, but your budget can definitely handle that.

Also, the beauty of the Define R4's silence isn't the fact that it has a closed front panel. The beauty of the silence is the fact that it has sound-dampening foam practically everywhere inside to case to reduce noise vibrations, which makes it the most silent case on the market. If you really want silence, this is the case for you. It also has a built-in fan controller that can control up to three fans, if that makes a difference. As stated, it won't give the best temps, but it will be pretty close (should only be a couple of Celsius difference). Lots of people own the Define R4 with stock fans and they still get good temps when they overclock.

I would still stick with the Gigabyte 2gb version. The GTX 770 simply isn't strong enough to actually use all of the vram. Take a look at this: http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Video-Card-Performance-2GB-vs-4GB-Memory-154/
Granted it's a GTX 680, not a GTX 770, the GTX 770 is basically a rebranded GTX 680 so it should be close.
Anyways, as you can see, even at 5760x1080p, the 4gb version practically gets the same fps as the 2gb version.

ingtar33 · Jan 5, 2014

volcanoscout :

well the nh-d14 is basically within 2C or 3C of the performance you'll get from the h100i... i went with it because the purpose of getting the r4 is to quiet your case... having one of the corsair water series cooler, i can assure you its much louder even with quiet fans then a tower air cooler.

I changed the parts i did for "silence" considerations... the nh-d14 is a SILENT and performance option. you won't lose any overclocking headroom going with it over the corsair h100i. Same for the gigabyte... the asus is a quiet gpu, i went with the gigabyte because in 4 separate reviews it tested out more quiet then the asus 3 times. (and the one time the asus tested quieter, the gigabyte landed it's most "quiet" result of them all... so it's not like they found it louder)... throw in the fact asus customer service sucks, and i felt there was better value in the gigabyte windforce card then in the Asus DirectCU II card.

I swapped out the psu because you don't need a 1000W psu... 760 is more then enough even if down the road you added a 2nd 770 for an SLi option. Lost the two case fans you were getting for the h100i... and swapped out those expensive enterprise edition hard drives for two drives that perform identically, and got you more storage space and saved a little cash in the process.

As i said the motherboard is basically identical to the sabertooth, the sabertooth isn't a "great" overclocking motherboard precisely because of the thermal armor... it holds heat in, and overheats parts of the board. That thermal armor is there to protect the board from someone overclocking with LN2... unless you plan to overclock with liquid nitrogen, you don't need thermal armor or the sabertooth. So i got you a motherboard thats essentially identical, which will overclock the cpu better and won't have the heat issues the sabertooth has.

volcanoscout · Jan 6, 2014

First, I'd like to thank ingtar33, ssddx, and realchaos for your input - it's been very instructive and helpful. I didn't take all of the recommendations, as I'm set on some of my selections, but the ones I did take allowed me to divert savings to other components. New build saves $275 off of my original build, but increases value and performance overall. I'll let you be the judge:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2wuaF
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2wuaF/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2wuaF/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($73.50 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: G.Skill Trident X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($214.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($339.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($21.98 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($21.98 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan ($21.98 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - OEM (64-bit) ($94.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus PA248Q 24.1" Monitor ($307.58 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm QuickFire Ultimate Wired Gaming Keyboard ($102.79 @ NCIX US)

Total: $2228.68

(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-06 02:20 EST-0500)

Changes from original:
- Changed from Asus Z87 Sabertooth to Asus Z87 Pro. Saves $55 on MB price, $27 by dropping the add-on wireless adapter, plus another $45 on a Microcenter CPU/MB Combo. Total savings: $127

- Changed from Corsair H100i to Noctua NH-D14. Total savings: $41.50

- Changed from WD Caviar Black 2TB to Seagate Barracuda 3TB. Total savings: $84 (This was a hard decision for me - I have had good experiences with Caviar Blacks, while the only catastrophic drive failure I've suffered was with a Barracuda. That one scarred me as it was also unrecoverable. Hard to argue rationally against the numbers, though. And backup, backup, backup...)

- Changed from Asus Geforce GTX 770 2GB to the Gigabyte Geforce GTX 770 2GB. Total savings: $10. Significant gain in performance and limiting heat.

- Changed from Seasonic 860 to 760. Total savings: $84 (I've read a lot of conflicting info on this with estimates all over the board. PCpartspicker says that if I go to 770 SLI, the rig will be pulling 712W, which doesn't leave much margin with a 760W PSU. A couple of other sites have recommended 850-1000+. On the other hand, posters have stated unequivocally that they are currently running 770 SLI with 700W PSUs with no issues. I'll trust that the lower end is more realistic, but hedge my bet by staying with high-quality.)

- Changed Windows 8.1 from full to OEM. Total savings: $87.66

- Changed monitor from Asus VX238H-W 23.0" to PA248Q 24.1". Added $177.58, but a much better monitor. (My office/desk config is the limiting factor - 24" is right at my size limit.)

- Changed memory from G.Skill Ripjaws X to Trident X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory. Added $10 (Looking for better CAS.)

- Changed keyboard from MS Sidewinder X4 to CM Storm QuickFire Ultimate Wired Gaming Keyboard, Cherry MX Brown. Added $53

Reactions?

volcanoscout · Jan 6, 2014

ingtar33 :

volcanoscout :

well the nh-d14 is basically within 2C or 3C of the performance you'll get from the h100i... i went with it because the purpose of getting the r4 is to quiet your case... having one of the corsair water series cooler, i can assure you its much louder even with quiet fans then a tower air cooler.

I changed the parts i did for "silence" considerations... the nh-d14 is a SILENT and performance option. you won't lose any overclocking headroom going with it over the corsair h100i. Same for the gigabyte... the asus is a quiet gpu, i went with the gigabyte because in 4 separate reviews it tested out more quiet then the asus 3 times. (and the one time the asus tested quieter, the gigabyte landed it's most "quiet" result of them all... so it's not like they found it louder)... throw in the fact asus customer service sucks, and i felt there was better value in the gigabyte windforce card then in the Asus DirectCU II card.

I swapped out the psu because you don't need a 1000W psu... 760 is more then enough even if down the road you added a 2nd 770 for an SLi option. Lost the two case fans you were getting for the h100i... and swapped out those expensive enterprise edition hard drives for two drives that perform identically, and got you more storage space and saved a little cash in the process.

As i said the motherboard is basically identical to the sabertooth, the sabertooth isn't a "great" overclocking motherboard precisely because of the thermal armor... it holds heat in, and overheats parts of the board. That thermal armor is there to protect the board from someone overclocking with LN2... unless you plan to overclock with liquid nitrogen, you don't need thermal armor or the sabertooth. So i got you a motherboard thats essentially identical, which will overclock the cpu better and won't have the heat issues the sabertooth has.

Is liquid nitrogen an option?

Seeking reviews and advice on my first build for work and play

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