Shutting down while gaming

[Rackered]

Hey there!

Need some advice in regards to an older computer(4-5 years) powering off without warning at random intervals while gaming.

This problem started a few months ago but since I was not using the PC alot, it wasn't much of a problem. I want to get it sorted now though.

After the PC powers down I need to wait up to 30 seconds to a minute before I can turn it back on, it will then perform the beep code for a thermal trip and display the same warning on screen.

I checked my temps with various software monitors and they all report low CPU temps. (never higher than 50C while playing intensive games) I gave the case a good cleaning and resat the CPU with new thermal paste all the same, this lowered the temps by a minor amount.

The only irregularly in regards to temp is some of the monitors reporting a high temp for the CPUTIN, often over 100C. Not sure what the CPUTIN even refers to.

The PSU is a cheap one with no rating and claims 1050w, my thinking is that may be the culprit but before spending money on a new one I figured I would seek the advice of people more experienced with this type of stuff.

Thanks for reading, If you need any other information let me know!

CPU: i5 650
Mobo: Intel DH55TC
PSU: Evo Labs 1050W
OS: Windows 10 (Upgraded from 7, same problem in 7)
Ram: 10GB
GPU: Nvidia GTX 960 (5 weeks old, problem existed prior to upgrade)

 

[lodders]

Does the beep code for thermal trip refer to the motherboard overheating, or the CPU overheating?
For example, has a heatsink fallen off the motherboard?
Has your case fan stopped working?
Try running with the side of the PC removed, should run cooler. does the problem still happen?

Go into BIOS or hardware monitor, and check the voltages from your power supply.

 

[Rackered]

Does the beep code for thermal trip refer to the motherboard overheating, or the CPU overheating?
For example, has a heatsink fallen off the motherboard?
Has your case fan stopped working?
Try running with the side of the PC removed, should run cooler. does the problem still happen?

Go into BIOS or hardware monitor, and check the voltages from your power supply.

The text warning refers to the processor while the beep code refers to the board.
I have checked the board for damage but cant find any, Cupid monitor shows the 12v at 8.6 on average, not sure if the PC would even power on if that was the case.
Intel's own board software shows the voltages in good range, as does the BIOS.
I have tried running with the side off and not difference, case fans are running fine and temps are pretty low.

 

[g-unit1111]

The PSU is a cheap one with no rating and claims 1050w, my thinking is that may be the culprit but before spending money on a new one I figured I would seek the advice of people more experienced with this type of stuff.

That is exactly your problem right there. The power supply is *NEVER* the item you should go cheap on when building your PC. It's bar none the most crucial component of the rig and if you buy a cheap one from a no-name manufacturer it will lead to nothing but problems. And your supply is often the reason why cheap ones have much higher wattage output values than if you got a quality unit with a lower power supply. You can run a GTX 960 on a 500W power supply if you buy a quality supply. If you buy a quality one from a manufacturer like EVGA (G2/B2/P2/T2 only), Seasonic X or S, and Corsair AXi/HXi are currently the best of the best out there. Most people who have similar problems never want to believe that the PSU is the culprit in system shut downs, but I will tell you 99% of the time, it is. Replace it with a quality unit like I suggested and you won't have that problem.

 

[logainofhades]

XFX 550w, for $55, is my go to budget PSU. It is plenty for the vast majority of budget systems.

 

[Rackered]

The PSU is a cheap one with no rating and claims 1050w, my thinking is that may be the culprit but before spending money on a new one I figured I would seek the advice of people more experienced with this type of stuff.

That is exactly your problem right there. The power supply is *NEVER* the item you should go cheap on when building your PC. It's bar none the most crucial component of the rig and if you buy a cheap one from a no-name manufacturer it will lead to nothing but problems. And your supply is often the reason why cheap ones have much higher wattage output values than if you got a quality unit with a lower power supply. You can run a GTX 960 on a 500W power supply if you buy a quality supply. If you buy a quality one from a manufacturer like EVGA (G2/B2/P2/T2 only), Seasonic X or S, and Corsair AXi/HXi are currently the best of the best out there. Most people who have similar problems never want to believe that the PSU is the culprit in system shut downs, but I will tell you 99% of the time, it is. Replace it with a quality unit like I suggested and you won't have that problem.

I was a bit of a novice when it came to PC hardware back when I put this one together, figured a PSU with a high wattage and a cheap price was a great deal. I know better now and will replace this PSU with a decent one even if it isn't the cause of my current problem.

 

[g-unit1111]

I was a bit of a novice when it came to PC hardware back when I put this one together, figured a PSU with a high wattage and a cheap price was a great deal. I know better now and will replace this PSU with a decent one even if it isn't the cause of my current problem.

That's a classic rookie mistake right there, and believe me it's something that we all have made at some point, myself included. A lot of vendors - and Tiger Direct earned notoriety for this - will sell garbage power supplies like the Ultra X4 for a good deal (like 950W for $55) because they assume that people don't know anything about power supplies and if they did, they wouldn't buy junk units like those sold by Ultra. The thing is that a lot of GPU manufacturers grossly overestimate the required wattage one needs for any particular GPU because of poorly made power supplies. I've got my Seasonic 430W to run a GTX 660, where, say a Coolmax 950W will struggle. When it comes to buying power supplies wattage matters, but build quality of said unit is where it matters the most.