SLI watercooling with Acrylic

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rolldogg

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Jul 7, 2013
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I'm trying to finish upgrading my system, but instead of using an EK-FC Dual Parallel Terminal Block to hookup my SLI GPUs, I want to hook them up in parallel using acrylic tubing. I already know if I buy some pre-cut acrylic tubing for this, I'll need the 4 slot tubing. My question is regarding the fittings. Can I use any hard line compression fittings out there or is there another type of fitting I need to use? Also, most of the pre-cut acrylic tubing I've seen comes in 10mm/12mm sizing. Since I only plan to use acrylic to hook up my GPUs, is there any benefit for using larger diameter tubing for higher water flow, or will that not have any impact on the water flow since the tubing leaving my GPUs, and everywhere else in my system, is using 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD?
 
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Why wouldn't I have room for hardline compression fittings? I have 4 slots, or 80mm, between each GPU.

Also, last night I was thinking about possibly using acrylic to connect the water on my MB since they're all pretty close together. I figured it might look more clean to connect the CPU waterblock, VRM waterblock, and chipset waterblock using acrylic tubing and 90 degree fittings. Since I've never used acrylic before, I'd rather stick to the straight lines for the acrylic tubing, and use the PrimoChill LRT flexible tubing for the rest, at least until I learn how to bend the acrylic and have practiced some. Also, when measuring the tubing (using the SLI as an example), I measured approx 80mm from slot to slit. If I have room for the hard line compression fittings, to take the measurements of where I need to cut the acrylic, would I just measure the distance between the FC Blocks on top of each GPUs waterblock, or do I need to factor in the depth of the fitting to the O ring, or if there a magic website that lists the distances between different GPUs on different MBs and maybe have the depth of multiple fittings.
 
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Didn't realize you had that much distance between cards. You should be fine for hardline compression fittings(using Primochill Rigid Revolvers myself). I'm not sure of a website giving you the distance, but the distance between slots is a standard size. I'd probably just cut a length of tubing, longer than needed. Install the fittings on each block, and just keep trimming until tubing "fits" properly between them. Speaking of tubing, are you going to use acrylic or PETG?
 
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I'm going with acrylic because I plan to color my coolant, and from what I've read, PETG stains faster. Also, I've been thinking about using acrylic instead of flexible tubing for straight connections between the waterblocks on my MB. I have my CPU block, a VRM block, and a chipset block. I thought it might look better if I could use acrylic since that's so many connections back and forth. Being that this is my first time using acrylic, I'd like to be able to use straight tubing with 90 degree fittings. Once I done with my system, I'm going to learn more about using the acrylic, like making bends and stuff, but I feel more comfortable just using straight lines on my system for now.

Do you like the PrimoChill Rigid Revolvers or are there any more hard line compression fittings worth looking at? I decided to use non-metric tubing, which means non-metric fitting as well, which there are less of. Does someone make 90 degree hard line compression fittings? I don't want to have to use a regular hard line compression fitting and have to hook it to a 90 degree fitting so I can run the tubing from one block to another on my MB.
 
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I think their great fittings, but I'm also using Primochill Rigid PETG tubing. From my understanding, for a proper fit, you should get the same brand fittings as tubing, at least when it comes to rigid tubing. I prefer colored tubing vs. colored coolant myself as well. But to each their own on this one. I've also read/seen videos how acrylic is far more fragile than PETG and can crack over time. It's also much easier and forgiving when bending. These all added up to sway me to go with PETG over acrylic. Back to your questions, I haven't seen any kind of 90 degree rigid compression fittings. I'm not sure if there out there or not. Also, since you don't plan any bends, it's going to get expensive fast using all the fittings required. I'm using a fair amount of 90s myself and have tubing bends. Just the 90s(not including compressions) are $10 each.
 
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Have you ever seen these fittings:

http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx

http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=3404

From what it looks like, these 90 degree fittings will work with acrylic tubing, plus, I think it'll give a real clean look using them with straight acrylic tubing since they're not as bulky as regular 90 degree compression fittings plus these swivel 360 degrees. So, as long as I want to use them to hook all the waterblocks on my MB together, they're all going to be on one board and not running lines higher to other components, they should work. The only downside I see is they're measured using the metric system, which means I'll have to swap out my 3/8" x 1/2" tubing.
 
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Nice Find! I've never used the Swfitech fittings, but I use their waterpumps and used their CPU/GPU blocks in the past. No real complaints. The Swiftech fitting you linked to still needs the fitting attached to it for the tubing though, whereas the Bitspower has it built in. I use Bitspower fittings for all my connections except the PrimoChill Rigid fittings I mentioned. Here's what I'm using for 90s http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_167&products_id=421 They are top notch, but also high priced. Also, don't assume that the heights will be the same(probably won't be). My CPU block sits higher than my VRM block for example. I couldn't just make an backwards "L" and connect the two.
 
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