Question SOLVED - Got a new modular PSU, forgot to swap SATA power cables - HDD dead. Possible fix?

[Dalerjr94]

HDD in question: WD 10TB "shucked" drive - PCB board (006-0A90701)


I got a new PSU for my computer the other day. Both my previous and the new PSU are fully modular. I used all new cables except for the SATA power cable. (big mistake)

My computer would only start for a split second and shut down. Hitting the power again button did nothing. Switching the PSU off and on allowed me recreate the split second start up and power loss. (would only try to power up once every time the PSU reset)

This told me the PSU was experiencing a short in the computer and disabling power.

So on a whim I decided to unplug the SATA power cables from the PSU and compare it to the new SATA cable - and of course, different pin configuration.

Once the SATA cable was unplugged the computer started up fine and booted via my M.2.

I had two drives on the existing SATA cable using the new PSU, a 1TB SSD, and a 10TB HDD. No pop, no smoke, no smell. Luckily, my SSD was fine after installing the new PSU's SATA cable.

However, the HDD was not. I can't get BIOS to recognize it anymore and verified with a second computer. No sings of burns on the PCB board. So after some searching around online - I removed the 5v and 12v TVS diodes, no luck (and later learned that I should have ohmed them first, another mistake) - [See 3rd picture]

I found this thread: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...ds-just-had-their-pcbs-fry.3605045/?view=date

From what I'm understanding - I can put a blob of solder on these fuses to bridge them and (if the fuses are the problem) will allow me to power the drive - enough to recover and clone my data to a new stable HHD. [See 4th picture for blue circles]

Any thoughts? Would a PCB donor and ROM chip swap be a better way to go about it? I'm familiar with soldering, but I've never really worked on micro boards - I think I could do it if the ROM chip wasn't so small. Is there anywhere I can purchase this board and send it in to have the ROM swapped?

Thanks in advanced!

Pictures:

https://imgur.com/a/XBz0j4T

View: https://imgur.com/a/XBz0j4T


Clear inspection of the PCB board:

View: https://youtu.be/ADvISGrh7Fo

 

[fzabkar]

I believe this model implements Power Disable on SATA power pin #3. Check that this pin is not sitting at +3.3V.

Measure the resistance of each fuse.

 

[Dalerjr94]

I believe this model implements Power Disable on SATA power pin #3. Check that this pin is not sitting at +3.3V.

Measure the resistance of each fuse.

It does implement power disable on pin 3 - I cover the 3rd pin to bypass it and have used the HDD for a good year and a half that way.

I don't know why I didn't think to check that. I'll have to pick up a multimeter tomorrow and report back with my findings.

Thanks!

 

[Dalerjr94]

@fzabkar

If you refer to picture 4 - the fuse circled on the left is giving an infinite read and the fuse circled on the right shows continuity.

This means the fuse on the left is blown, correct?

If I bridge the fuse and attempt to power up - are the missing TVS diodes going to cause a problem being able to power up the drive?

I'm aware that without the diodes there is no over volt protection, I'm just not sure if their absence will effect powering up the drive all together.

 

[Dalerjr94]

SOLVED

Well this was short and sweet.

After bridging the fuse depicted on the left side, the drive powdered up with complete access - no problems.

I can now clone to a new drive and get this one repaired later with no further downtime.

Thanks for your time @fzabkar

 

[Tylerchang]

Welllllllll, I've done the same thing😭😭😭 one ssd survived but I had 2 x 1 tb ssd and 1 2tb hhd wb blue I'm guessing I'm gunna have to look at these fuses