[Solved] I5 2500 reaches 95C in seconds


May 4, 2012
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7rKW
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7rKW/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7rKW/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Seagate Momentus XT 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill Future ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill 530W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH22NS90B DVD/CD Writer ($22.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 23.6" Monitor ($181.99 @ Mac Connection)
Total: $819.77
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-05-04 15:08 EDT-0400)

This is my build, and this is my first time building.
The CPU and Motherboard are used off Ebay, which is usually, for me, a wise choice. Today it doesn't seem so much :p

All my standoffs are in place, Mobo is properly mounted.

Cables are secure, airflow isn't a problem.

After much initial difficulty mounting my heatsink properly, after booting up twice without it on right, It is finally secure atleast to my knowledge, all the push lock pins are showing through the back of my Mobo almost uniform (The difference is minimal and any increasing force does nothing)

I am using Arctic silver 5 Thermal Paste, cleaning it with Iso 90% between heatsink mounts
Most recent attempt, my only guess is I may have put too little TC because I used the "Vertical Line" tech shown on Arctic Silver's PDF and I wasn't sure how much it was compared to a grain of rice, but I thought it was pretty comparable.

Things to note:
I am running/Checking this in BIOS,
and I do know that cores run higher in BIOS but I don't believe they run quite this high, 70's was reported in threads I read.

Heatsink Fan idles at about 2180 RPM, no increase or decrease. Could this be the tell that it's my heatsink? or something else?
All other fans seem to change RPM.

There is No OS on the computer yet.

I'm using the Intel Stock Heatsink.

I know Google is my friend but I can't say I have found a problem or solution that compares to my own, and all advice I've read I've attempted. Still, I'm willing to hear anything and I appreciate all comments.

I don't know how to reset the CMOS, which is a vague hope, but one I have anyway. Can I remove the battery on my Motherboard? It has a tab on top that I don't want to damage. The MOBO has a button to reset the CMOS but I dunno how to work it, can I do it in BIOS?

I suspect it could be my Mobo, my CPU, or my Heatsink.. possibly any of the three.

Sadly all 3 were used, and unrefundable (I'm wiser for this mistake, though fiscally poorer)

So what do I replace first? I don't have a lot of money, I'm on SSI and a college student.

Could it be my Power supply? Everything else seems to be running fine, but who knows, maybe it's burning it out, but then wouldn't it fry the motherboard instead of overheating the CPU? But atleast the PSU is RMA-able, still, that's so much a longshot I doubt it. I think I'd see other symptoms.

I appreciate advice and thoughts. Since most of the advice I read was located on this forum, I figured I'd make a post of my own now that I've expended all my own knowledge :)



Update 5/7/12
Solution: CM 212 Hyper + maintains my computer at 50 C in BIOS, the culprit must have been the Stock HSF, Thank God, because replacing the other stuff woulda been painful.
Thank you for your recommendations, I'm still having problems getting Win 7 on it, but that's just a bad dvd I suspect.
I am going to guess that you don't have the stock HSF (heatsink/fan) seated well. Easy way to check is to reach into the case and grab one of the twist clips and pull straight up. If you can pull any of them straight up it wasn't seated well and this is the reason for the high temperature. The easiest way that I have found to seat the HSF is to mount it to the board before you put it in the case; that way you can see if the twist clips are all the way through and locked.

If you are really looking to replace HSF look at the Cooler Master hyper 212 +/Evo. This is the path I would start on. Unless you were running for a long period at 95c I wouldn't think that you have damaged the processor or the motherboard.

So odds are it is the HSF that is leading to your temperature issues.

Christian Wood
Intel Enthusiast Team



Then my first recommendation would be to swap that out with a CM Hyper 212+ or 212 EVO.

Your HSF's stiff plastic frame and/or push-pin may have deformed over time and could be unable to provide the required contact pressure to provide proper heat transfer. Lots of people are posting around here about high CPU temperature after a few years from initial installation when using Intel's stock push-pin HSF.


May 4, 2012
Thank you two, funny enough, that was the same recommendation from the Comp forum on MMO Champ :p People were raving about it.

Since I bought it used, I'm gonna replace the Heatsink, because even if that doesn't fix it and I have to replace more, atleast I'll have a solid aftermarket cooler (I'm a very practical man, and that makes me happy)

But say that fails, any other thoughts?
I'm gonna order the Heatsink now, I'll post back if that doesn't work.
Also, with this HS, do I use the Thermal paste it comes with? (I'm just assuming it does)



If you set everything to default/auto (clocks, voltages, multipliers, etc.) and BIOS monitoring shows the correct values then there is no reason for your CPU to still hit 90C with a 212+ (properly) attached, it shouldn't even reach 70C under full-load with the 212+ fan disconnected and open case.

If you still get 90C, your CPU is either busted (running a lot hotter than it should) or might have a bad thermal diode. Load an OS, do a stress-test and see what happens. If the CPU is really heating up abnormally, it should crash on fairly short order if you disconnect your 212+'s fan and the heatsink should become uncomfortably hot. If the thermal diode is the problem, the CPU should keep going and the heatsink should remain bearably hot to the touch even with the fan disconnected.

As for why people are raving about the 212+/EVO, that's simply because they bring cooling performance previously only available in the $60-90 price range and entry-level liquid coolers down to the $30-35 price point, which is exceptional bang-per-buck.