Stuck at Gigabyte splash screen

[xtan]

Hey guys. So about 2 months ago, my brother was using the PC (which was connected to an AVR), on the same wall socket he made an octopus connection and plugged in a speaker to an extension cord which is plugged in to another extension cord. Upon plugging the speaker, there was a blackout in the house except the kitchen, lasted for about 5mins.

I kept the AVR since then and connected the PC instead to an extension cord with some sort of surge protection. It worked well for a month but lately, occasionally when I'm playing a game, the monitor would lose signal from the PC for a few secs and come back to a crashed game. And yesterday when I boot my PC it just gets stuck at the splash screen.

So I decided to use the AVR again instead of the extension cord. The PC worked, but while I was playing, again it caused a blackout to the house again for a few minutes. I tried to use the extension cord again and it still gets stuck at the splash screen.

What could be the problem, I mean the AVR makes the PC works but causes a blackout. While the extension cord makes it just stuck at the splash screen, but when it works, it never causes a blackout but monitor occasionally loses signal from the PC. What is at fault here, the PC? the wiring? will getting a new AVR be okay? Thanks.

 

[Ubrales]

1. Check the Voltage, and Amperage of the AVR under load. Make sure these are within the original specs.
2. Extension cords cause a voltage drop due to its resistance. If you have to use one, use a heavy duty industrial type of cord (heavier gage wire - lower resistance). The cord should be of the shortest length and laid as straight as possible; coiled-up cords will create a capacitance problem.

Please let us know,

 

[xtan]

Thank you so much for the reply. I just used a different AVR and it still gets stuck at the splash screen. So I think my extension cord is fine and that something else is causing this problem.

 

[Lehan123456789]

Thank you so much for the reply. I just used a different AVR and it still gets stuck at the splash screen. So I think my extension cord is fine and that something else is causing this problem.

Hi, what power supply are you using?

 

[Ubrales]

The next item to look at is the PC, and the most likely component Based on your description of events is the PSU.

The PSU needs to be a good quality PSU, and I use Tom's Hardware PSU Tier List as a guide.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Ensure that the PSU is one from Tier 1 or Tier 2. I have Seasonic in my builds and zero issues over seven years!

 

[xtan]

Thanks again guys. @Ubrales I'm sorry I accidentally downvoted your reply, I'm on my phone and was trying to upvote xD.

PSU: Thermaltake Smart SE 530W

AMD FX 8320e
GeForce GTX 750 Ti
G.Skill 8GB RAM
WD 1TB HDD
Windows 10

 

[Ubrales]

Thanks again guys. @Ubrales I'm sorry I accidentally downvoted your reply, I'm on my phone and was trying to upvote xD.

PSU: Thermaltake Smart SE 530W

AMD FX 8320e
GeForce GTX 750 Ti
G.Skill 8GB RAM
WD 1TB HDD
Windows 10

Don;'t worry about it - let's get the problem solved.

I don't understand why you need an AVR (or UPS system) - Is the incoming power questionable?

 

[xtan]

@Ubrales . I actually don't think I need an AVR now, since I used a different one and the PC still gets stuck at the splash screen. I'm sorry I don't know much about this but how do I know if the incoming power is questionable?

Anyways, the extension cord I'm using says 2000W max. Plugged on it is the CPU, monitor and speakers. My PSU's max output capacity is 530W.

 

[Ubrales]

The incoming voltage in the US is 110V/115V - This can be checked with a voltmeter if you have one. A very crude but effective way of checking is to observe for any dimming of lights when the refrigerator comes ON. Repeat, this is a crude method, but it will work. Usually, voltage is not a problem in the US.

The extension cord specs look OK; keep it straight (not coiled-up).

Which brings us to the PSU. You may have heard of the "paper clip" test - this is not a good way to test a PSU because it does not test it under a load.

Since you seem to have an intermittent problem I suspect the PSU.

For reference - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html