Question Stupid - Bought a new switch for a project, and then found I had an unused switch...

[axlrose]

Okay, purchased a new D-link dgs 1016s to clean up some ethernet cabling. Went to start the project tonight and just about stepped on an old switch I was no longer using and had completely forgotten about. It's a netgear gs316. I googled it quick and it appears to be a pretty solid switch already. Looks like I purchased it in 2019.

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I'm better off using the old switch or if there is anything new/better about the d-link switch I still have in the box.

It looks like the d-link is about four years newer, but I'm not sure if there have been any big changes in switches during that time.

Thanks.

 

[kanewolf]

Okay, purchased a new D-link dgs 1016s to clean up some ethernet cabling. Went to start the project tonight and just about stepped on an old switch I was no longer using and had completely forgotten about. It's a netgear gs316. I googled it quick and it appears to be a pretty solid switch already. Looks like I purchased it in 2019.

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I'm better off using the old switch or if there is anything new/better about the d-link switch I still have in the box.

It looks like the d-link is about four years newer, but I'm not sure if there have been any big changes in switches during that time.

Thanks.

I would say there is generally ZERO differences between the two. Return the unopened.

 

[axlrose]

I would say there is generally ZERO differences between the two. Return the unopened.

Front of the unopened switch boasts QoS 802.1p Prioritization, and 802.3az energy efficient ethernet. I think they both have the az trait. I can't tell if the netgear has the QoS function, but I'm also not sure what it is.

 

[kanewolf]

Front of the unopened switch boasts QoS 802.1p Prioritization, and 802.3az energy efficient ethernet. I think they both have the az trait. I can't tell if the netgear has the QoS function, but I'm also not sure what it is.

QOS on a switch might help if you saturate the link to your router. But if you aren't filling 1GE from the switch to the router consistently, then QOS is not really significant.

 

[Ralston18]

If affordable and possible, I suggest keeping the new switch.

Put the new switch to work and register the warranty. Even if all features and functions are not needed or used.

Which could change....

Keep the old switch as a ready backup - test accordingly.

Overall issue being that eventually you will need a switch and having one on hand may save some time, money, and grief later on.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

 

[axlrose]

If affordable and possible, I suggest keeping the new switch.

Put the new switch to work and register the warranty. Even if all features and functions are not needed or used.

Which could change....

Keep the old switch as a ready backup - test accordingly.

Overall issue being that eventually you will need a switch and having one on hand may save some time, money, and grief later on.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

I'll hook things up this week when I get a chance and see what the lay of the land is. I am hoping that with the 16 port switch and the couple of eight port switches I had been using, I can move a few cables to the 16 that are leftover and then have some space on the eights that I'll essentially use with my home theater to run some shorter cables so that I don't have 16 long cables all running to the same place. That's the problem I'm trying to fix right now. Take sixteen long ethernet cables. Rat them all up. Place them next to your home theater equipment and that's what I have right now. I plan to hold on to the extra switch until I can get things set up and I'll keep it if that makes more sense. That's a good idea to consider.

 

[Ralston18]

Just take some time to do some advance planning: physically sketch out your ideas, lable ports and cables, devices (switches, home theater components,), cable runs, etc..

Simply to keep the process organized and methodical. Include some interim testing to verify that connections are correct and working. Keep track of devices, device names, IP addresses, and MACs. Pings can be used to confirm connections and connection paths.

The sketch/plan does not need to be fancy nor does it mean that you cannot make changes or revisions "on the fly". Moving things around on paper will likely save a lot of time and effort. Especially if you discover some error of omission or commission that would have forced a "do-over". 16 cables is a lot and wires do like to tangle themselves up.

Perhaps you have already done some of that - if so then you have a good start on it all.

Having a physical sense of network topology beforehand is well worth the effort.

And the sketch etc. will be very useful for troubleshooting and future changes.

Enjoy.

 

[axlrose]

Half the lights out isn't good right? Maybe something happened to the switch at some point and it isn't working right anymore. I haven't sent the new one back yet. I should power it on and have all of the lights come on instead of half of them right? I also ran a patch cable from the router directly to it, and no blinking happened in any port.

https://imgur.com/a/ePI5AAi

View: https://imgur.com/a/ePI5AAi

 

[BFG-9000]

Typically, that just means the power brick is bad. Netgear's lifetime warranty* on business-class ProSafe products such as the GS116 applies to those made after May 1, 2007 and does not cover power bricks.

The other thing that can fail is of course the electrolytic capacitors inside, which are covered as the video shows.

Unfortunately, you bought a non-ProSafe GS316 which only had a three year warranty, and 2019 was six years ago.

The lights are only supposed to all blink on for one second when first powered-up, and crashing halfway through the bootup sequence suggests dirty power.

* "Lifetime Warranty" is stated as ending 5yrs after model goes EOL, but they haven't used this to try to weasel out of the warranty as they have continued to make new models with the old names

 

[axlrose]

Typically, that just means the power brick is bad. Netgear's lifetime warranty* on business-class ProSafe products such as the GS116 applies to those made after May 1, 2007 and does not cover power bricks.

The other thing that can fail is of course the electrolytic capacitors inside, which are covered as the video shows.

Unfortunately, you bought a non-ProSafe GS316 which only had a three year warranty, and 2019 was six years ago.

The lights are only supposed to all blink on for one second when first powered-up, and crashing halfway through the bootup sequence suggests dirty power.

* "Lifetime Warranty" is stated as ending 5yrs after model goes EOL, but they haven't used this to try to weasel out of the warranty as they have continued to make new models with the old names

I'm reading this as this switch is dead and get a new one.