This forum was very helpful in preparing for my first PC build. I would like to share my experience since I have read many of the “review my system” threads, but I have not seen anything regarding members completing their first build systems. So, my recap of the experience is below…
I will primarily use the PC for the following:
-Family video editing
-Pictures
-Email, web, and other Office applications
-May add TV tuner for future PVR functionality
-Quiet operation is a priority for me
-Light gaming, but not a priority
Components:
Case: Antec Solo $85
PSU: Corsair HX520 $110
MB: Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R $160
CPU: E6550 $180
RAM: Crucial Ballistix 2GB DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
Model BL2KIT12864AA804 - Retail $110
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce 8600GTS 256MB (fanless) $183
Cooling: ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm $35
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Paste $6
HD: Samsung Spinpoint T HD403LJ 400 GB $85
OS: Vista OEM $112
Optical: Recycled Samsung DVD from prior system
Total: $1,066
A comparable system by Velocity Micro (Cinemagix) is currently $1,380, so building it myself saved about $300 and provided much more flexibility. A similar Dell XPS 410 is estimated at $1,150, but Dell does not currently offer the 6X50 Intel chips and Dell is still using the 965 chipset instead of P35.
Preparation:
I read many of the “first build” threads, reviews, and articles to select my components. I found these links particularly helpful:
Component Selection
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/11/20/how_to_build_part_1/
How to assemble article
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/12/14/how-to-build-a-pc-part-3/
Mid -Range System Build
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/05/09/system_builder_marathon/
Hardwa re guide for HTPC – AVS Forum
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=710828
www.silentpcrev iew.com
Component selection – Graphics Card:
The graphics card was the most difficult component to select. I was not familiar with the naming schemes for nVidia and ATI, and I was not aware that many companies repackage these products.
The nVidia scheme was easy to understand (8800 > 8600 > 8500) and (Ultra > GTX > GTS > GT), although I’m still not sure about the difference between GTS and GT. The ATI naming scheme is still a mystery to me. It’s clear that 1950 > 1900 and that 2600 > 2400, but I do not understand the difference between the “X” models and the “HD” models. The comparison chart at the end of Tom’s “Best Cards” article below finally provided an easy to understand ranking.
Once I picked the appropriate card (8600 GTS for me), I went to newegg for the purchase and found about 25 different companies (MSI, Gigabyte, EVGA, etc) selling the card. As a noobie, I would have just assumed that I should purchase the card directly from nVidia. Now, I realize that these companies are repacking the nvidia card and they may (or may not) provide some customization (fans or fanless, overclocking, etc.). The only features that I focused on were at least 256 of video ram and fanless cooling.
I’m not a gamer, so I did not want any of the top of the line models. However, I did want a mid-range card that would be sufficient to edit family videos and the option to add home theater pc (HTPC) functionality in the future. These articles were helpful, although they did not provide a clear solution:
Best Cards – August 2007
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/08/06/the_best_gaming_video_cards_for_the _money/
No Mid-Range Graphics Cards?
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/07/24/hd_2600_and_geforce_8600/
Anan tech – HD Video
http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3047
VGA Chart Comparison
http://www23.tomshardware.com/graphics.html
I decided that the best options for me were the nvidia 8600 GTS, the ATI X 1950 XT and the HD 2600 XT. Also, I wanted a fanless graphics card, in order to keep the system as quiet as possible. This ruled out the X 1950.
Finally, I decided on the 8600 GTS due to the August card comparison, and it performed better than the 2600 XT on the VGA chart comparison. I purchased the Gigabyte version of the 8600 GTS, primarily because it was fanless and Gigabyte seems to have a good reputation. There were similar cards from Asus and MSI, but I did not want to spend time trying to compare these companies GPU abilities, and each one seems to have a good reputation.
Component selection – PSU:
I initially selected the Aerocool ZeroDB PSU based on the Tom’s mid-range build article. Then, I read a number of threads and PSU articles, and the Corsair HX (520 and 620) seems to be the consensus winner because it’s quiet and it has modular cables.
Component selection – Motherboard:
After reading a few of Tom’s articles and “first build” forum threads, the leading companies seem to be Asus and Gigabyte. The Asus models seemed too expensive for my needs. Gigabyte provided a variety of models and prices to choose from and they seem to have a good reputation.
I selected the P35 chipset because it is the latest that is available and it provides upgrade options for the future, including Intel’s next generation of CPUs (45 nano). I did not see any point in considering an “older” 965 or 945 chipset. I selected the Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R (emphasis on “C”) model because it includes support for DDR3 ram for future upgrades. It was $30 more expensive than the GA-P35-DS3R (without “C”) model, but that seems like a reasonable premium for a longer MB life expectancy.
Component selection – CPU:
I believe in choosing the low-mid range of the latest CPUs, so this was the easiest component for me to select. The E6550 provides 2.3 GHz and includes 1333 front side bus. This should be sufficient for my needs and I’m not interested in overclocking. If speed becomes a concern, I will just upgrade to the latest CPU in 18 to 24 months.
Component selection – RAM:
I checked the Gigabyte website to find the list of approved models for my motherboard. I’ve seen positive comments about Crucial and they had a rebate offer, so that was it for the ram selection.
I understand that if you are interested in overclocking, then the ram specifications are much more important, and you have to pay attention to voltage, CAS latency and timings. I’m not familiar with these settings and I’m not too interested in overclocking at this time.
Component selection – CPU Cooler:
Silent PC Review has a lot of good information about these selections and everyone has an opinion. I selected the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 because it’s supposed to be very effective and quiet, and partially because it is offered by Velocity Micro on all of their systems (seemed like a reasonable endorsement).
Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste seems to be the standard that everyone uses. The thermal paste provides a heat conduit between the CPU and the Arctic Freezer heatsink. The Arctic Freezer has its own “heat pad” to provide a conduit, but the Arctic Silver 5 is highly recommended from the threads that I have read.
Component selection – Hard-drive:
Samsung Spinpoint T series is rated as one of the quietest drives on SilentPC review. The newegg reviews are positive, and it seems fast and reliable.
Component selection – Operating System:
Vista Home Premium OEM license. I selected Vista rather than XP in order to do the install now and get it over with, rather than installing XP now and Vista later. I understand that all of the drivers and bugs may not be worked out yet, but I do not have any critical software that does not have Vista support.
The retail version of Home Premium is $210 and the system builder/OEM version is $112. The only downside to the OEM version is that it can only be used with the motherboard that it is originally installed on. I will probably keep this system for 3+ years, so I can save $100 now and then see how prices are whenever I upgrade the motherboard. Even if I switch out the motherboard in 2 years, I could buy 2 copies of the OEM version for the same price as the retail version.
Build Process
Total build time: About 3 hours. This was my first time and I was being careful to read each manual and to understand each step before proceeding.
Tools: Philips head screwdriver (small, preferably non-magnetized)
Flashlight (preferably small LED)
Utility knife
Wire cutters
Small pliers
Patience
Anti-static wrist strap (probably overkill, but $5 is worth it to me to keep a $200 component safe)
My build order:
1. Open and prepare Antec case
2. Install PSU into the case
3. Install back panel connector (I/O) shield into the case
4. Install CPU on motherboard
5. Install motherboard into the case
6. Apply thermal paste to CPU
7. Install CPU cooler on CPU/motherboard
8. Attach wiring for motherboard, case fan, and case front panel
9. Install hard-drive into the case and attach wiring
10. Install DVD in case and attach wiring
11. Install ram on motherboard
12. Install video card on motherboard
Prepare Case
I unpacked the case and removed both sides and the front panel. I read thru the installation manual, particularly the PSU and motherboard sections. The Antec manual did not specify the parts that were included, so this created a little guesswork later.
Install PSU
I read the Corsair installation manual and it was very direct. Slide the PSU into the top section of the case (with PSU fan facing down) and secure it with the 4 screws provided with the PSU.
Back panel connector shield
Each motherboard offers different connections on the back panel, so I had to remove the Antec shield and replace it with the shield provided with the Gigabyte MB. The Antec shield pulled away with a little effort, and the replacement slid in without any issues.
Install CPU on motherboard
I was a little anxious with installing the CPU, since it is the most delicate component in the system. However, the MB manual provided clear instructions on the installation. Just remove the covers from the CPU and CPU holder, line up the key notches, and place the CPU into the holder. The locking mechanism on the CPU holder ensured that it was firmly in place.
Install motherboard into the case
This was the most frustrating step for me. First, I had to place the brass MB standoffs in the correct position for the MB mounting points in the case. Then, I had to slide the MB into the case, and line up the back panel IO connectors. According to the Tom’s article, the back panel connector tabs should be bent to a 90 degree angle, facing into the case. However, I was not able to line up the MB and connectors with the bent tabs. I ended up keeping the tabs at the original, slightly bent position, in order to line up the MB. The back panel shield is not perfectly flush with the connectors, but I believe that it should work fine.
Once the back panel shield and MB are lined up, then simply screw the MB to the case at the appropriate mounting points.
Before installing the CPU cooler, you should check to see if it will block any of the wiring connections that you need to make. In my case, the CPU cooler was above the ATX connection for the power supply to the motherboard. I should have connected this wire before installing the CPU cooler. I was able to connect the wire after the cooler was installed, but it was just more difficult than it had to be.
Thermal paste and CPU cooler
Arctic Silver provides a good instruction sheet on how to prep the CPU heat spreader and the cooler, and applying the thermal paste. I had to clean off the heat pad from the bottom of the Arctic Freezer heat sink, using rubbing alcohol. This wiped off without any problems. I also used the rubbing alcohol to clean the heat spreader on top of the CPU.
Before applying the paste and installing the cooler, I had to separate the cooler fan from the heat sink. With the motherboard lying flat, I applied the thermal paste according to the Arctic Silver instructions. Then, I snapped the heat sink into the four mounting holes and gave it a slight twist in both directions, to spread the thermal paste evenly. Finally, I mounted the fan back onto the heatsink. At this point, I was comfortable that the build was nearly complete.
Wiring
The wiring took longer than I expected, but I’m satisfied with the result. First, I connected the PSU to the motherboard (ATX, ATX12, and 24-pin IDE), with instructions from both manuals. Then, I connected the Antec rear fan to the PSU, which required sorting thru the modular Corsair cables and selecting the appropriate one. The front panel wiring took the most time, since I had to confirm that the pins and positive/negative connections matched between the motherboard and the wires. These included the power switch, reset switch, status light, USB ports, and audio ports.
Once these connections were made, I use the Antec cable system (and a few cable ties) to take any slack out of the wiring. The system is just a series of clips on the far/left side of the hard-drive cage. Working with each wire, I tied it down to a reasonable length and avoided any overlapping or twisted wires. This provided a much cleaner perspective, improves airflow, and made it easier to work with the remaining components.
Install hard-drive
The hard-drive was easy to install, especially with the Antec suspension system. I just twisted the suspension cables and slid the hard-drive into them. Then, I plugged in the SATA connection to the motherboard and power to the PSU.
Install DVD
Installing the DVD was more complicated, since the manual referred to “plastic mounts” but did not indicate where these mounts were located. Then, I realized that they were attached to the bottom of the case. Once I found these “plastic mounts”, the DVD was secured and connected to the motherboard and PSU with ease.
Install RAM
The ram was easy to line up the key and install into the appropriate slots. The MB manual indicated which slots were appropriate for the dual channel ram.
Install video card
The video card was easy to line up with the PCI Express connection and the rear expansion slots. Just remove two slots and slide the card in.
Completing the build
Finally, I checked to confirm that all of the wires were connected and seated properly and that the fans were clear of any wires. I added the AC cord to the PSU and connected the keyboard and monitor to test the system. I turned on the power and everything fired up immediately and the motherboard began running thru its boot sequence. I did this first test without the sides of the Antec case, just to confirm that the fans were working correctly. The motherboard ran thru its sequence and was looking for the boot disk in the DVD. I shut down the PC and put the Antec case back together. Then, I started it up again and began loading Vista.
I’m very satisfied with the finished product and thanks to this forum for helping my put it together!!!
I will primarily use the PC for the following:
-Family video editing
-Pictures
-Email, web, and other Office applications
-May add TV tuner for future PVR functionality
-Quiet operation is a priority for me
-Light gaming, but not a priority
Components:
Case: Antec Solo $85
PSU: Corsair HX520 $110
MB: Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R $160
CPU: E6550 $180
RAM: Crucial Ballistix 2GB DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
Model BL2KIT12864AA804 - Retail $110
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce 8600GTS 256MB (fanless) $183
Cooling: ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm $35
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Paste $6
HD: Samsung Spinpoint T HD403LJ 400 GB $85
OS: Vista OEM $112
Optical: Recycled Samsung DVD from prior system
Total: $1,066
A comparable system by Velocity Micro (Cinemagix) is currently $1,380, so building it myself saved about $300 and provided much more flexibility. A similar Dell XPS 410 is estimated at $1,150, but Dell does not currently offer the 6X50 Intel chips and Dell is still using the 965 chipset instead of P35.
Preparation:
I read many of the “first build” threads, reviews, and articles to select my components. I found these links particularly helpful:
Component Selection
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/11/20/how_to_build_part_1/
How to assemble article
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/12/14/how-to-build-a-pc-part-3/
Mid -Range System Build
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/05/09/system_builder_marathon/
Hardwa re guide for HTPC – AVS Forum
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=710828
www.silentpcrev iew.com
Component selection – Graphics Card:
The graphics card was the most difficult component to select. I was not familiar with the naming schemes for nVidia and ATI, and I was not aware that many companies repackage these products.
The nVidia scheme was easy to understand (8800 > 8600 > 8500) and (Ultra > GTX > GTS > GT), although I’m still not sure about the difference between GTS and GT. The ATI naming scheme is still a mystery to me. It’s clear that 1950 > 1900 and that 2600 > 2400, but I do not understand the difference between the “X” models and the “HD” models. The comparison chart at the end of Tom’s “Best Cards” article below finally provided an easy to understand ranking.
Once I picked the appropriate card (8600 GTS for me), I went to newegg for the purchase and found about 25 different companies (MSI, Gigabyte, EVGA, etc) selling the card. As a noobie, I would have just assumed that I should purchase the card directly from nVidia. Now, I realize that these companies are repacking the nvidia card and they may (or may not) provide some customization (fans or fanless, overclocking, etc.). The only features that I focused on were at least 256 of video ram and fanless cooling.
I’m not a gamer, so I did not want any of the top of the line models. However, I did want a mid-range card that would be sufficient to edit family videos and the option to add home theater pc (HTPC) functionality in the future. These articles were helpful, although they did not provide a clear solution:
Best Cards – August 2007
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/08/06/the_best_gaming_video_cards_for_the _money/
No Mid-Range Graphics Cards?
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/07/24/hd_2600_and_geforce_8600/
Anan tech – HD Video
http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3047
VGA Chart Comparison
http://www23.tomshardware.com/graphics.html
I decided that the best options for me were the nvidia 8600 GTS, the ATI X 1950 XT and the HD 2600 XT. Also, I wanted a fanless graphics card, in order to keep the system as quiet as possible. This ruled out the X 1950.
Finally, I decided on the 8600 GTS due to the August card comparison, and it performed better than the 2600 XT on the VGA chart comparison. I purchased the Gigabyte version of the 8600 GTS, primarily because it was fanless and Gigabyte seems to have a good reputation. There were similar cards from Asus and MSI, but I did not want to spend time trying to compare these companies GPU abilities, and each one seems to have a good reputation.
Component selection – PSU:
I initially selected the Aerocool ZeroDB PSU based on the Tom’s mid-range build article. Then, I read a number of threads and PSU articles, and the Corsair HX (520 and 620) seems to be the consensus winner because it’s quiet and it has modular cables.
Component selection – Motherboard:
After reading a few of Tom’s articles and “first build” forum threads, the leading companies seem to be Asus and Gigabyte. The Asus models seemed too expensive for my needs. Gigabyte provided a variety of models and prices to choose from and they seem to have a good reputation.
I selected the P35 chipset because it is the latest that is available and it provides upgrade options for the future, including Intel’s next generation of CPUs (45 nano). I did not see any point in considering an “older” 965 or 945 chipset. I selected the Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R (emphasis on “C”) model because it includes support for DDR3 ram for future upgrades. It was $30 more expensive than the GA-P35-DS3R (without “C”) model, but that seems like a reasonable premium for a longer MB life expectancy.
Component selection – CPU:
I believe in choosing the low-mid range of the latest CPUs, so this was the easiest component for me to select. The E6550 provides 2.3 GHz and includes 1333 front side bus. This should be sufficient for my needs and I’m not interested in overclocking. If speed becomes a concern, I will just upgrade to the latest CPU in 18 to 24 months.
Component selection – RAM:
I checked the Gigabyte website to find the list of approved models for my motherboard. I’ve seen positive comments about Crucial and they had a rebate offer, so that was it for the ram selection.
I understand that if you are interested in overclocking, then the ram specifications are much more important, and you have to pay attention to voltage, CAS latency and timings. I’m not familiar with these settings and I’m not too interested in overclocking at this time.
Component selection – CPU Cooler:
Silent PC Review has a lot of good information about these selections and everyone has an opinion. I selected the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 because it’s supposed to be very effective and quiet, and partially because it is offered by Velocity Micro on all of their systems (seemed like a reasonable endorsement).
Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste seems to be the standard that everyone uses. The thermal paste provides a heat conduit between the CPU and the Arctic Freezer heatsink. The Arctic Freezer has its own “heat pad” to provide a conduit, but the Arctic Silver 5 is highly recommended from the threads that I have read.
Component selection – Hard-drive:
Samsung Spinpoint T series is rated as one of the quietest drives on SilentPC review. The newegg reviews are positive, and it seems fast and reliable.
Component selection – Operating System:
Vista Home Premium OEM license. I selected Vista rather than XP in order to do the install now and get it over with, rather than installing XP now and Vista later. I understand that all of the drivers and bugs may not be worked out yet, but I do not have any critical software that does not have Vista support.
The retail version of Home Premium is $210 and the system builder/OEM version is $112. The only downside to the OEM version is that it can only be used with the motherboard that it is originally installed on. I will probably keep this system for 3+ years, so I can save $100 now and then see how prices are whenever I upgrade the motherboard. Even if I switch out the motherboard in 2 years, I could buy 2 copies of the OEM version for the same price as the retail version.
Build Process
Total build time: About 3 hours. This was my first time and I was being careful to read each manual and to understand each step before proceeding.
Tools: Philips head screwdriver (small, preferably non-magnetized)
Flashlight (preferably small LED)
Utility knife
Wire cutters
Small pliers
Patience
Anti-static wrist strap (probably overkill, but $5 is worth it to me to keep a $200 component safe)
My build order:
1. Open and prepare Antec case
2. Install PSU into the case
3. Install back panel connector (I/O) shield into the case
4. Install CPU on motherboard
5. Install motherboard into the case
6. Apply thermal paste to CPU
7. Install CPU cooler on CPU/motherboard
8. Attach wiring for motherboard, case fan, and case front panel
9. Install hard-drive into the case and attach wiring
10. Install DVD in case and attach wiring
11. Install ram on motherboard
12. Install video card on motherboard
Prepare Case
I unpacked the case and removed both sides and the front panel. I read thru the installation manual, particularly the PSU and motherboard sections. The Antec manual did not specify the parts that were included, so this created a little guesswork later.
Install PSU
I read the Corsair installation manual and it was very direct. Slide the PSU into the top section of the case (with PSU fan facing down) and secure it with the 4 screws provided with the PSU.
Back panel connector shield
Each motherboard offers different connections on the back panel, so I had to remove the Antec shield and replace it with the shield provided with the Gigabyte MB. The Antec shield pulled away with a little effort, and the replacement slid in without any issues.
Install CPU on motherboard
I was a little anxious with installing the CPU, since it is the most delicate component in the system. However, the MB manual provided clear instructions on the installation. Just remove the covers from the CPU and CPU holder, line up the key notches, and place the CPU into the holder. The locking mechanism on the CPU holder ensured that it was firmly in place.
Install motherboard into the case
This was the most frustrating step for me. First, I had to place the brass MB standoffs in the correct position for the MB mounting points in the case. Then, I had to slide the MB into the case, and line up the back panel IO connectors. According to the Tom’s article, the back panel connector tabs should be bent to a 90 degree angle, facing into the case. However, I was not able to line up the MB and connectors with the bent tabs. I ended up keeping the tabs at the original, slightly bent position, in order to line up the MB. The back panel shield is not perfectly flush with the connectors, but I believe that it should work fine.
Once the back panel shield and MB are lined up, then simply screw the MB to the case at the appropriate mounting points.
Before installing the CPU cooler, you should check to see if it will block any of the wiring connections that you need to make. In my case, the CPU cooler was above the ATX connection for the power supply to the motherboard. I should have connected this wire before installing the CPU cooler. I was able to connect the wire after the cooler was installed, but it was just more difficult than it had to be.
Thermal paste and CPU cooler
Arctic Silver provides a good instruction sheet on how to prep the CPU heat spreader and the cooler, and applying the thermal paste. I had to clean off the heat pad from the bottom of the Arctic Freezer heat sink, using rubbing alcohol. This wiped off without any problems. I also used the rubbing alcohol to clean the heat spreader on top of the CPU.
Before applying the paste and installing the cooler, I had to separate the cooler fan from the heat sink. With the motherboard lying flat, I applied the thermal paste according to the Arctic Silver instructions. Then, I snapped the heat sink into the four mounting holes and gave it a slight twist in both directions, to spread the thermal paste evenly. Finally, I mounted the fan back onto the heatsink. At this point, I was comfortable that the build was nearly complete.
Wiring
The wiring took longer than I expected, but I’m satisfied with the result. First, I connected the PSU to the motherboard (ATX, ATX12, and 24-pin IDE), with instructions from both manuals. Then, I connected the Antec rear fan to the PSU, which required sorting thru the modular Corsair cables and selecting the appropriate one. The front panel wiring took the most time, since I had to confirm that the pins and positive/negative connections matched between the motherboard and the wires. These included the power switch, reset switch, status light, USB ports, and audio ports.
Once these connections were made, I use the Antec cable system (and a few cable ties) to take any slack out of the wiring. The system is just a series of clips on the far/left side of the hard-drive cage. Working with each wire, I tied it down to a reasonable length and avoided any overlapping or twisted wires. This provided a much cleaner perspective, improves airflow, and made it easier to work with the remaining components.
Install hard-drive
The hard-drive was easy to install, especially with the Antec suspension system. I just twisted the suspension cables and slid the hard-drive into them. Then, I plugged in the SATA connection to the motherboard and power to the PSU.
Install DVD
Installing the DVD was more complicated, since the manual referred to “plastic mounts” but did not indicate where these mounts were located. Then, I realized that they were attached to the bottom of the case. Once I found these “plastic mounts”, the DVD was secured and connected to the motherboard and PSU with ease.
Install RAM
The ram was easy to line up the key and install into the appropriate slots. The MB manual indicated which slots were appropriate for the dual channel ram.
Install video card
The video card was easy to line up with the PCI Express connection and the rear expansion slots. Just remove two slots and slide the card in.
Completing the build
Finally, I checked to confirm that all of the wires were connected and seated properly and that the fans were clear of any wires. I added the AC cord to the PSU and connected the keyboard and monitor to test the system. I turned on the power and everything fired up immediately and the motherboard began running thru its boot sequence. I did this first test without the sides of the Antec case, just to confirm that the fans were working correctly. The motherboard ran thru its sequence and was looking for the boot disk in the DVD. I shut down the PC and put the Antec case back together. Then, I started it up again and began loading Vista.
I’m very satisfied with the finished product and thanks to this forum for helping my put it together!!!
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