OK...this may sound redicolous to some, but here gjoes. I have been using a surge protector for years and never even looked at one, since. ..so I don't know if its been modified to certain extent. In the interim, as I had bought various products, scanner, printer, routers and etc. I have noticed that they have been coming with monstrous AC plugs, which in turn negate another socket. I have 8 sockets on mine, but i could barely use 5 of them because of these monstrous plugs. Can someone recommend a surge protector that would accommodate ALL of my plugs without any hassles?
Question Surge components suck
- Thread starter Novel8
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- Mar 16, 2013
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The other option is some of these -- https://www.amazon.com/6-Inch-Power-Extension-5-Pack-Outlet/dp/B00DVRUTXW
I use them when I have a wall-wart that I want to plug into a power strip without covering half the outlets.
For low wattage, one of these can be handy also -- https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/
I use them when I have a wall-wart that I want to plug into a power strip without covering half the outlets.
For low wattage, one of these can be handy also -- https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/
- Dec 26, 2012
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I can't recommend strips, other than those with a stated joule rating, warranty, coverage etc like the ones from APC, Monster, CyberPower etc.
The reason is surge protectors are a lie that plays on the publics ignorance of what's inside. A 'surge protector' without the joule rating etc is nothing more than 3 long strips of cheap metal sitting in a plastic housing, sometimes with plastic keeping pressure on the rail, sometimes folded metal. There's a 10A-20A breakered switch on the hot leg.
That switch is designed to do 1 thing. Prevent you 'the homeowner' from plugging in more than 10A-20A worth of draw from the outlet. Does absolutely nothing to prevent any surges From the house electric that the 15A-20A breaker in the panel won't stop.
Joule rated outlets have actual circuitry in the housing that does prevent a spike. 1 joule = 1w/s, so a spike surge like a lightning spike that happens in a fraction of a second would exceed the wattage allowable on the surge.
Amps are a unit of heat possible, that's how breakers work, it's not the temporary draw that trips them, it's the heat generated by the draw. So you can pull 30A through a 15A breaker for a couple of seconds, a 20A draw will last a couple of minutes, but a dead short is instant.
The only protection going on from 95% of power strips, extentions, bricks etc is 'you' being protected from 'you', not your stuff being protected from outside influence.
The reason is surge protectors are a lie that plays on the publics ignorance of what's inside. A 'surge protector' without the joule rating etc is nothing more than 3 long strips of cheap metal sitting in a plastic housing, sometimes with plastic keeping pressure on the rail, sometimes folded metal. There's a 10A-20A breakered switch on the hot leg.
That switch is designed to do 1 thing. Prevent you 'the homeowner' from plugging in more than 10A-20A worth of draw from the outlet. Does absolutely nothing to prevent any surges From the house electric that the 15A-20A breaker in the panel won't stop.
Joule rated outlets have actual circuitry in the housing that does prevent a spike. 1 joule = 1w/s, so a spike surge like a lightning spike that happens in a fraction of a second would exceed the wattage allowable on the surge.
Amps are a unit of heat possible, that's how breakers work, it's not the temporary draw that trips them, it's the heat generated by the draw. So you can pull 30A through a 15A breaker for a couple of seconds, a 20A draw will last a couple of minutes, but a dead short is instant.
The only protection going on from 95% of power strips, extentions, bricks etc is 'you' being protected from 'you', not your stuff being protected from outside influence.
Like Karadjgne, I'm not a fan of inexpensive unbranded "surge protector" strips after I spent some time working for a company who make EMI filters for inducstrial systems. Professional filters include dual wound chokes (inductors), capacitors, metal oxide varistors and other components.
The primary purpose of these EMI filters is to reduce the level of interference generated by systems from reaching the mains supply, but thay also function quite well in reverse, buy reducing the level of transients from reaching yourequipment. The series inductors clamp current surges, the X and Y-series capacitors attenuate RF interference and the MOVs clamp high voltage spikes. They do not protect against lightning strikes.
https://components101.com/articles/metal-oxide-varistor-mov-overview
I suspect most cheap "surge protectors" contain little more than an on/off switch or breaker, an MOV, an indicator and a fuse. They do very little to protect your computer but give a false sense of security. I cannot remember seeing any "surge protector" strips in the electronics labs I've worked in.
Out of curiosity. I refreshed my memory on how a typical MCB (miniature circuit breaker) works. This article describes separate thermal and electromagnetic circuits in the breaker which trip under different conditions.
https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/what-is-an-mcb-and-how-does-it-work-328-c.asp
During 'slow' continuous over-current, characteristic to overload, the bimetallic strip is heated by the electrical charge and thus bends, releasing the mechanical latch. The latch, which is connected to the operating mechanism causes the contacts to open and breaks the circuit.
During Short Circuit, the sudden and dramatic rise of electric current causes electro-mechanical displacement of the plunger (4) from the tripping coil or solenoid (2). The plunger strikes the trip lever causing the immediate release of the latch mechanism, opens the contacts and thus breaks the circuit.
The primary purpose of these EMI filters is to reduce the level of interference generated by systems from reaching the mains supply, but thay also function quite well in reverse, buy reducing the level of transients from reaching yourequipment. The series inductors clamp current surges, the X and Y-series capacitors attenuate RF interference and the MOVs clamp high voltage spikes. They do not protect against lightning strikes.
https://components101.com/articles/metal-oxide-varistor-mov-overview
I suspect most cheap "surge protectors" contain little more than an on/off switch or breaker, an MOV, an indicator and a fuse. They do very little to protect your computer but give a false sense of security. I cannot remember seeing any "surge protector" strips in the electronics labs I've worked in.
Out of curiosity. I refreshed my memory on how a typical MCB (miniature circuit breaker) works. This article describes separate thermal and electromagnetic circuits in the breaker which trip under different conditions.
https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/what-is-an-mcb-and-how-does-it-work-328-c.asp
During 'slow' continuous over-current, characteristic to overload, the bimetallic strip is heated by the electrical charge and thus bends, releasing the mechanical latch. The latch, which is connected to the operating mechanism causes the contacts to open and breaks the circuit.
During Short Circuit, the sudden and dramatic rise of electric current causes electro-mechanical displacement of the plunger (4) from the tripping coil or solenoid (2). The plunger strikes the trip lever causing the immediate release of the latch mechanism, opens the contacts and thus breaks the circuit.
Reading the few responses I received, not one mentioned a company that modifies the typical surge protector, since these monstrous AC plugs came into being? I am using one small 'extension" wire with one plug and 3 sockets as it is now. Wouldn't that put a 'strain' on the surge protector?
- Mar 16, 2013
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There are multiple surge protectors with increased spacing, like the one I linked above.
Also, the short extensions, also linked above, would work as well.
JohnBonhamsGhost
Champion
- Jan 14, 2016
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a manufacturer would not bother "modifying" your existing strip for any reason whatsoever.
they would just produce a new model with wider spacing and refer you to buy that new model.
and the price you would be paying a 3rd party to attempt something like this would be more than a new strip would cost, plus there would be no warranty covering any modification.
- Dec 26, 2012
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Most outlets in a house are duplex plugs, so just use 2x 6outlet strips and only use 3 plugs per strip. The load is identical as seen by the outlet. Since the draw of whatever you've plugged in is less than the 15A rating of either switch, which also means it's less than the 15A breaker in the mains panel, the only difference is there's 2 switches instead of 1 switch.
I am not going to say that there are no good surge suppressors available. On the other hand when you compare the cost and protection offered you are really better off with a mid grade UPS with AVR (Automatic voltage regulation) on it. As to not having enough plugs just couple it with as many $10 power strips as you need to plug everything in. The working load is all that matters, and with a normal setup you are not going to even come close to the VA rating of a decent UPS you buy from a big block. Surge suppressor power strips for the most part are a joke coupled with a "warrantee" that is almost unrecoverable. Do not count on them to do much for the things that really trash components like transients and sag/swell conditions. Lightening while extremely rare has a tendency to be crazy powerful and surge suppressors are joule rated. This makes it really tough to prove that the lightening did not exceed the rating of the suppressor when claims are made. Go with a UPS. It will usually blow first and protect your equipment when lightening hits and will usually have decent transient and sag/swell protection. Not guaranteed but still better than a surge strip, especially a cheap one.
Reading about "monstrous" plugs prompted me to measure a number of fused mains plugs in my computer room and they're all roughly 2 inches square.
Some plugs have a moulded design with the fuse accessed from below, others have removable tops to access the fuse inside.
Typical fuse ratings are 2, 3, 5, 7, 10 and 13A, with the value chosen depending on the maximum rating of the device at the other end of the cord.
Since plugs are pretty much the same size here, the spacing between sockets on mains outlets and extension blocks is standardised.
Does anyone know the reason why you guys have normal and monstrous plugs?
Some plugs have a moulded design with the fuse accessed from below, others have removable tops to access the fuse inside.
Typical fuse ratings are 2, 3, 5, 7, 10 and 13A, with the value chosen depending on the maximum rating of the device at the other end of the cord.
Since plugs are pretty much the same size here, the spacing between sockets on mains outlets and extension blocks is standardised.
Does anyone know the reason why you guys have normal and monstrous plugs?
BFG-9000
Splendid
- Sep 17, 2016
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My assumption is that all devices nowadays use SMPS as those use way less copper than transformer types (and easier to make meet power efficiency standards where required), so they are natively multi-voltage compatible from 100v (for Japan) through 240v for worldwide operation. And to save money, they only lightly modify those power bricks with different prongs to fit domestic market plugs worldwide. That leads the normal sized bricks for you, to be oversized for our unusually closely spaced outlets here (which are intended for our under 1" square plugs).
It's often not that the power bricks are too large, but that the prongs may be placed near one end of a longish brick which just so happens to cover another outlet, as even the two prong ones are usually polarized so will only fit one way (note in the pictures how one blade is wider than the other). Being able to bend the long part out of the way in the examples above allows use without blocking another outlet. BTW our cords are not fused.
It's often not that the power bricks are too large, but that the prongs may be placed near one end of a longish brick which just so happens to cover another outlet, as even the two prong ones are usually polarized so will only fit one way (note in the pictures how one blade is wider than the other). Being able to bend the long part out of the way in the examples above allows use without blocking another outlet. BTW our cords are not fused.
It makes more sense if you're talking about power bricks. I have the same problem when using 8-way mains extension blocks, with two rows of four sockets. If the wire comes out the top of a brick, it gets in the way of another plug on the opposite side of the extension block.
Yes, I know many plugs around the world aren't fused. It's just one of those quirks that make things interesting.
Yes, I know many plugs around the world aren't fused. It's just one of those quirks that make things interesting.
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