A normal drive health check do that for me?
Well, you can use CrystalDiskInfo but for HDD, doing defrag (e.g MyDefrag) would show it fast. Since while usually 1TB HDD defrag takes few hours, for failing drive, it can take upwards of 17 hours. Note: do not use defrag for SSDs.
Another option is pulling all other drives from the system, except OS drive and look if system interrupts go away. If they do, issue is with one (or several) drives pulled. Then, plug them back one-by-one, to see at which point the system interrupts come back.
As for other hardware (e.g GPU), look if those need driver updates.
What does this do to fix the issue?
That is Windows restart/repair. Usually done after terminal commands doesn't help.
E.g:
1. Open Start.
2. Search for Command Prompt (or cmd.exe), right-click the top/correct result, and select the
Run as administrator option.
3. Type the following command to perform system repair and press Enter:
SFC /scannow
4. If the scan found corrupt files and repaired them, run the same command again, just in case:
(if no errors were found, skip to step #5)
SFC /scannow
5. Once no errors are found with SFC /scannow, type the following command to perform a quick check and press Enter:
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth
6. Once this is done and when corruption is detected, type in another command for in-depth scan and press Enter:
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth
7. Once this is done and there are issues with system image, type in another command for fixing it and press Enter:
DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
8. Once the system image repair is complete, type in another command and press Enter:
SFC /scannow
9. After last once completes, final command with Enter press would be:
exit
This closes the terminal window.
Note: SFC /scannow, DISM /ScanHealth and DISM /RestoreHealth may take a long time to complete.
Do not close the terminal window or
do not reboot the system, when each of theses scans/fixes are taking place, even when they seemingly get stuck.
However, i don't think issue would be with OS corruption. Instead, it looks to be hardware fault. But running those commands doesn't hurt.
That is my sig, yes. I post here so often, I got tired of going back and finding it again every time.
Do include PSU make and model (or part number) as well in your specs. Also, adding if PSU was bought new or used/refurbished + purchase date helps. Since often, this info about PSU is needed when troubleshooting PC hardware (and sometimes, software) issues.
E.g you can format it like so;
(Note: this is my PSU data.)
PSU: Seasonic PRIME 650 80+ Titanium [SSR-650TD] / bought brand new: Q3 2016.