TEC build log start

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/cd15M1a
ok so I have finished all my testing and decided on a general build for this unit.
this build will be sealed inside of a chest so I will not have physical access to the computer case, I would like some input on the general idea that I am presenting, I use antifreeze so freezing the coolant is not a issue, and seeing as I am increasing the cooling capacity of my water cooling system, I have also chosen new clocks for my hardware, the CPU clock will run at 5Ghz, and the GPU's will be running at 930Mhz, I have already tested theses clocks and found them to be stable for my hardware.

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/a/jT3oy
res setup

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so I got some of my fittings, and the rest of the wire extensions for the section of wire that goes through the chest I guess I should explain that.
ok so for the most part all my case wiring is in 3 sections there are the wire extensions that plug directly in to the power supply then there is the next section of wire extensions that go through the wall of the chest, and the final section is the wire that comes with the power supply and they run from the extensions that are in the wall to the motherboard plugs and the video cards. the 20 pin connections are done in three sections also.(CLR CMOS pin's switch is in three sections)
the video cables that run to the monitors are done in two sections, the USB cables are done in two sections, the internet cable is done in two sections, and the sata cable is done in one section from the motherboard all the way out of the chest to the SSD's and DVD drives.
I think that covers all the wire let me know if I missed something?

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/a/cN1cy
I drilled all the T's on the res setup to allow for greater flow rates.

 

[toolmaker_03]

the trunk line that goes through the chest, so far this is what it looks like, I might still need a couple of wires.
http://imgur.com/a/7DX1c
there are some braided wire in there and I will have to strip the braiding off of them.

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok well I have had a couple of people suggest to me that I should use fingernail polish on the ends of the wire where they go into the connector, before I coat the connector with flex seal, this will give me a hard surface to bond the flex seal to. so I will do that as well, it is a easy step, and if it lowers the possibility of failure with the vacuum chamber, I am all for that.

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so I am doing a couple of upgrades to the design on the PVC res., I will have a fill port for each reservoir, and a aqua pipe on the inside of the reservoir so that when I open the fill port coolant does not over flow out of the reservoir.
this is how I am doing that
http://imgur.com/a/H9Reo

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so I drilled out the fill ports for the reservoirs and started to make the aqua pipes, I have drilled and taped the plastic for the aqua pipes, but I still need to grind the plastic to a round shape, and make it the same shape as the lid, the lid is a dome shape, so I will dome the plastic as well, to the same shape as the lid, so that it seats flat, and it will make it easier to epoxy the plastic to the lid.
http://imgur.com/a/KYw0K

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok so the next section I will be doing is the electrical system for the TEC's
this is how I will have my TEC's wired I am using switches attached to relay then to the power supply
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Peltier-Thermoelectric-TEC-Cooler-50mm-410-Watt-USA-QUALITY-50mm-TEC/281904411699?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35006%26meid%3Daccd12a64983450bad64d979e965f22a%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D281880518717
http://www.amazon.com/Relay-Harness-Bosch-Style-40AMP-HRNS/dp/B005HFYE1O/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0AN0EMPR4HWG9JPZ7V19
http://www.amazon.com/HOT-SYSTEM-ON-OFF-Rocker-Motorcycle/dp/B00RZ4YTCO/ref=pd_sim_422_77?ie=UTF8&dpID=41lxh3PWcVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0K8CVQ4CDHX7CG8BXMWN
http://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-45-Amp-Power-Supply/dp/B004W8MQ4O/ref=pd_sbs_263_48?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vjQ%2B3X3-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QEE5ZJTG61Q0848NNN4
so why am I using a relay for my TEC?
the answer is because in my test build my TEC was wired directly to my power supply and every time I would turn it on the TEC would make a snapping sound, this sound is not good for the TEC, or the power supply, but with the relay in the circuit, it provides enough of a delay in how the load is given to the TEC, that it does not make a snapping sound.

 

[toolmaker_03]

what I am working on
http://imgur.com/a/35tum

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/a/Zthdg
the res is built and it just fits.

 

[toolmaker_03]

well even with using a table top to attach everything to, it is still a tight fit for me to get all of the hardware on there.
http://imgur.com/a/WXOP0

 

[computers_are_freaky]

Wow, I hope you're building it where you need it, that is MASSIVE :lol:. I don't think you'll be able to move it anywhere else without a few helping hands.

 

[toolmaker_03]

yes! it is massive and heavy. so I am building it in sections, once I finish the circuit for the TEC's, I will start on the radiators.

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/ZoNEcuG

ok so this is what the hot side of the loop will look like if your looking straight down on it.
the radiators will have frames built for them to hold them in the upright position, there are two D5 pumps and one reservoir, there are six 360mm radiators with three fans on each, there are three fan controllers, one for every two radiators or six fans.
there is the power supply for the D5 pumps and the fan controllers, and one of the three power supplies for the TEC's in this area.

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/2CNI2Lw

ok so what am I really trying to do here?
well I think that when all three TEC's are on, the Clay that is right at the transition area will freeze up a little, so I am going to try and see, if I can create a evaporator, and try to limit as much of this from occurring as possible.

 

[toolmaker_03]

https://www.techspray.com/p-47-licron-crystal-esd-safe-coating.aspx
ok so what is this stuff for?
well the vacuum chamber(plastic ice chest) with the motherboard and video cards energized can and will create a electro static field within the chamber with a vacuum on the chamber this field becomes highly charged.
Licron Crystal is a clear urethane coating that adheres to metal, plastic, and most other surfaces. I will spray the PC case, the DYI reservoirs, and the inside of the ice chest, before I install the motherboard and video cards. to try and limit how charged the field can become.
http://www.ewdsolutions.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=TEC-1756-8S

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/qEeXecL

ok now with this sketch this should complete the build, and what it will look like.
the cold side of the system, is basically completely covered in clay, the reservoir, pumps, tubing, CPU blocks, and the entire ice chest.
yea its heavy, but by doing it this way, my hope is that nothings has condensation forming on it.

 

[toolmaker_03]

some of the placement of the hardware will change as I am still trying to make as much room as possible on the table top. I have already redone how the radiators are being place to save a little room.
http://imgur.com/uTU99YI
so any ideas are welcome.

 

[toolmaker_03]

http://imgur.com/a/ukw3n
http://imgur.com/dtNBWVi
ok so yea they are overkill, but my hope is that they will support a duel task, by not only keeping the relay cool, but also act as a evaporator for any humidity that may freeze on the clay right next to the TEC where the clay stops, at the transition point.

 

[4Ryan6]

http://imgur.com/a/ukw3n
http://imgur.com/dtNBWVi
ok so yea they are overkill, but my hope is that they will support a duel task, by not only keeping the relay cool, but also act as a evaporator for any humidity that may freeze on the clay right next to the TEC where the clay stops, at the transition point.

I hate to ask a stupid question, but you already stated you were using radiators to cool the hot side of the peltiers?

Relays getting too hot, would only happen if they are rated too close to the actual power level needed, meaning if the relay is subjected to an actual 20 amp draw, use 30 amp relays and there won't be a heat problem.

Because the relay is designed to handle the load, if you are drawing a solid 20 amps and only use a 20 amp relay, you are asking for trouble and even air cooling is not going to solve it.

DC acts differently and runs hotter than AC with a direct constant power draw, and your peltiers run off of DC current.

So what are those air coolers for?

I like the way you used that aluminum to arrange those air coolers, what brand are those low profile coolers and what wattage can they handle?

I have considered using those low profile coolers in my setup to attempt shrinking my setup down, but I am not sure they could handle the heat load of the peltiers I run?

 

[toolmaker_03]

ok with 16AWG wire and 20A going through the relay it got hot to the touch, but with the 10AWG wire and a fan on the relay it stays cool to the touch.

I am hoping that the CPU coolers will serve a duel task and act as a evaporator for any humidity that may freeze on the clay right next to the TEC where the clay stops, at the transition point.

http://i.imgur.com/dtNBWVi.png

Cooler Master GeminII S524 Version 1 and 2 CPU Air Cooler with 120 mm Silencio FP Fan RR-G5V2-20PK-R1

 

[4Ryan6]

OK I see what you're doing.

 

[toolmaker_03]

well all of this is eraser putty and it is for all of the tight spots, this stuff is easy to mold into any area.
http://imgur.com/jjj5b9I


I have 10 times this amount in molding clay, for insolating every thing after the putty has been applied.

 

[toolmaker_03]

so I have decided to take the time to remove the raised section of the water blocks base and polish the base flat.
http://imgur.com/a/LrggS


I will be using a flat stone, and yes it is a precision crafted stone.
as well as some 600 grit sandpaper, 1200 grit sand paper and a polishing towel.
when I am done the entire base will be flat and it will have a mirror finish on it.

 

[computers_are_freaky]

Is this to decrease the flow resistance in the peltier blocks?

Are you doing it for the blocks on both sides or just the hot or cold side?

Is there a risk that a "pocket"of water will form in the far corners and either overheat or freeze?