TEC build log start

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toolmaker_03

toolmaker_03

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Mar 26, 2012
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http://imgur.com/cd15M1a
ok so I have finished all my testing and decided on a general build for this unit.
this build will be sealed inside of a chest so I will not have physical access to the computer case, I would like some input on the general idea that I am presenting, I use antifreeze so freezing the coolant is not a issue, and seeing as I am increasing the cooling capacity of my water cooling system, I have also chosen new clocks for my hardware, the CPU clock will run at 5Ghz, and the GPU's will be running at 930Mhz, I have already tested theses clocks and found them to be stable for my hardware.
 
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If that was a cold transfer block what you removed actually helps transfer the cold to the coolant.

If you have to increase the flow of a traditional water block, you do that by modifying the head piece of the water block, not the copper base plate fin grid.

I'm curious as to why you felt you needed to remove the fin grid?

Since you are using an anti-freeze based coolant there would be no freeze ups in the pin field?

Do you have a reason as to why you actually did that?

Before you modify any more of your water blocks I urge you to test the before and after results!

The pins create a certain amount of turbulence as the coolant flows through and in this case turbulence is a good thing!

 
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well I am not removing the fin grid that is inside the CPU block, but the raised section on the other side, or the bottom of the copper base plate, I am going to make the contact section of the CPU block where the TEC makes contact with the CPU block, I am going to make that flat.
 
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yea, I am bad about that, my communication skills need a lot of work, and I am sorry about the confusion.

so, as I have stated all my clay and eraser putty is multi colored, and it looks bad, real bad, so to clean it up I went to a couple of arts and crafts forums, and after reading some of the posts, on a few of the more difficult hobbies that these ladies get into, all I can say is there passion rivals any mans passion for there hobbies, so I posted my issue, of having the multi colored clay and I wanted to know if I could get all of it the same color, I got some flak for wasting the clay and putty for use as insolation, but in the end I got the info I was looking for, if I take all of the multi colored clay, and mix all of it together to make a single color, the color I end up with is a dark brown. so when you see the clay, it will not be multi colored, but a dark brown.

the molding clay is oil based and will never harden.
 
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Aww... all the pretty colours...
I have to say though, that this build isn't exactly going to be pretty (no offence). Why not see if you can use 1 colour per area, that way it is colour coded and might even look better than mud colour. Or, have you considered making a housing for it all (I assume that weight issues have since long ago been disregarded) and that way you could have peace of mind that no stray objects will land on your frankenpc and cause trouble. You could also use it to attach dust filters and not have to clean it every other week.
 
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well a buddy of mine helped me to move the Chest with all the hardware inside and about half the clay on it, it was 120LBS without the water.(we placed it on a scale)
so with the TEC assembly, and the rest of the chest covered in clay, adding in water weight, I would guess that the could side will weigh about 180LBS.

ok so after looking at what is left, the final weight of the complete build including the table top that all of it is mounted to, I am looking at 350LBS, so no, this is not moveable, I would have to break the build down to move it.
 
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one of the nice things about using a table top is that I can, and have, drawn the build out on it, I make changes to it and try out new configurations of the hardware in a effort to save room, one would not think that room would be a issue for this build, as it would seem like I have plenty of room for it, but the reality is that every thing just barely fits on that table top, and that is only if I go vertical with all the assemblies, that is why I am building so many frames for all the hardware, I have to go vertical with the hardware, because I don't have enough room to spread it all out flat on the table top.

http://imgur.com/83taL0y
83taL0y.png
 
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The pictures were a little misleading, my bad, I see exactly what you are doing.

Regarding the sketch above a little labeling would be nice?

 
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Ehh... Sorry, but, I don't get it. What are you trying to prove/disprove?
From the brief glance at wikipedia, a rotameter seems pretty straight forward, so it just measures the pressure of a liquid/gas that passes through. More liquid = more pressure = higher reading.
Bigger tubing = more liquid (assuming the liquid is travelling at the same speed)
So... am I missing something here?
 
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its ok, that is why I am running the experiment, there seems to be a lot of confusion on how the rotameters work, so I am going to demonstrate how they are designed to function, and what happens when manufacturer instructions for install of the device is not fallowed.
 
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Have you tried doing a comparison between the shaved down Blocks and the stock? I'm interested to see how muchof a difference it makes. Also, I would like to as to how much different fin designs differ, as far as cooling performance goes? I only ask, because I see you're using simple fan grid blocks, will this impact performance in any big way?
 
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He probably shaved the blocks to fit the sized peltier he is running and under that situation cooling performance wasn't the goal, but getting a perfectly flat mounting surface for the peltier was.

 
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yes, its to fit the TEC better, I used epoxy on the test build, and I could not get the epoxy off of the TEC, so I decided to make the water blocks flat, so that I would not need to use the epoxy.
and I don't thank that it would hurt the performance of the water block at all by boing this.
I still have the radiator frames, and the reservoir frames to build, than I have to assemble it all.
I still need 1 water pump, 2 radiators, and some fittings to complete the build.
but it seems to be moving along at a good rate.
 
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