TECH: Iinstalling flyback on WGk7000

bill

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I have two WG K7000 that are going to have new flybacks installed. I figured
it'd be a simple install, but I ran into a slight problem. The red wire that
goes to the neck board is attached with a quick disconnect. I don't have the
correct size pin to replace it with if I take the old wire out of that
connector.. Before I pull the wire out of the pin, I thought I'd get a
second opinion. Would it be okay and/or easier to just splice the new
flyback's wire into this one or try to track down the correct pins and
connector? Is it even wise to splice it? Thanks for any advice.
 
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Bill wrote:
> I have two WG K7000 that are going to have new flybacks installed. I
figured
> it'd be a simple install, but I ran into a slight problem. The red
wire that
> goes to the neck board is attached with a quick disconnect. I don't
have the
> correct size pin to replace it with if I take the old wire out of
that
> connector.. Before I pull the wire out of the pin, I thought I'd get
a
> second opinion. Would it be okay and/or easier to just splice the new
> flyback's wire into this one or try to track down the correct pins
and
> connector? Is it even wise to splice it? Thanks for any advice.
 
G

Guest

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Bill wrote:
> I have two WG K7000 that are going to have new flybacks installed. I
figured
> it'd be a simple install, but I ran into a slight problem. The red
wire that
> goes to the neck board is attached with a quick disconnect. I don't
have the
> correct size pin to replace it with if I take the old wire out of
that
> connector.. Before I pull the wire out of the pin, I thought I'd get
a
> second opinion. Would it be okay and/or easier to just splice the new
> flyback's wire into this one or try to track down the correct pins
and
> connector? Is it even wise to splice it? Thanks for any advice.

Hi Bill,

I have run into the same problem. Use a blue butt splice, I forget the
gauge wire it is for, but it works perfect. Good snug fit!! I hate to
splice in the old connector. Also since you have it off clean it up the
post a bit with a scotch bright pad.

Good Luck

J & R
 
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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I use a jewelers screwdriver to pull the old connector out by depressing the
retaining pin, then when it's out, pry apart the back two crimps holding the
insulated part. Work it out, then work the wire part back and forth until
the wire strands break. Crimp it on the new flyback wire and solder the wire
part (after cutting it to size) along the flat part of the connector. Push
it back in the housing and re-attach.

"J & R" <arcadeadventures@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113182932.703759.25140@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>
> Bill wrote:
>> I have two WG K7000 that are going to have new flybacks installed. I
> figured
>> it'd be a simple install, but I ran into a slight problem. The red
> wire that
>> goes to the neck board is attached with a quick disconnect. I don't
> have the
>> correct size pin to replace it with if I take the old wire out of
> that
>> connector.. Before I pull the wire out of the pin, I thought I'd get
> a
>> second opinion. Would it be okay and/or easier to just splice the new
>> flyback's wire into this one or try to track down the correct pins
> and
>> connector? Is it even wise to splice it? Thanks for any advice.
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I have run into the same problem. Use a blue butt splice, I forget the
> gauge wire it is for, but it works perfect. Good snug fit!! I hate to
> splice in the old connector. Also since you have it off clean it up the
> post a bit with a scotch bright pad.
>
> Good Luck
>
> J & R
>
 
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Bill...i will be around Tuesday all night till like 8 and after
11...lemme have a peek before we try anything
 
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That is exactly what I do except I use my daughter's barrettes. I
sometimes goober up the crimp on the connector when I pry it open and
the solder seems to make sure it is snug. Hopefully I won't have to
repair it again. I don't care for butt splices myself. I've had too
many slip but that was probably because I did a bad crimping job.

I do however cut the black ground wire from the aquadag ground on many
of the WG monitors and use a bright orange screw connector to rejoin the
wires after I have done a cap kit. I get tired of unsoldering this
ground wire each time I pull the chassis to test it and this speeds
things up a bit. I'm not the first person to do this as I have seen
this connector on many of the other WG chassis cap kits I do. You can
always make a new ground wire when you get everything working properly
and replace the cut one.

my 2 cents.

Pat D.

Robert Bullock wrote:
> I use a jewelers screwdriver to pull the old connector out by depressing the
> retaining pin, then when it's out, pry apart the back two crimps holding the
> insulated part. Work it out, then work the wire part back and forth until
> the wire strands break. Crimp it on the new flyback wire and solder the wire
> part (after cutting it to size) along the flat part of the connector. Push
> it back in the housing and re-attach.
>
> "J & R" <arcadeadventures@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:1113182932.703759.25140@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>
>>Bill wrote:
>>
>>>I have two WG K7000 that are going to have new flybacks installed. I
>>
>>figured
>>
>>>it'd be a simple install, but I ran into a slight problem. The red
>>
>>wire that
>>
>>>goes to the neck board is attached with a quick disconnect. I don't
>>
>>have the
>>
>>>correct size pin to replace it with if I take the old wire out of
>>
>>that
>>
>>>connector.. Before I pull the wire out of the pin, I thought I'd get
>>
>>a
>>
>>>second opinion. Would it be okay and/or easier to just splice the new
>>>flyback's wire into this one or try to track down the correct pins
>>
>>and
>>
>>>connector? Is it even wise to splice it? Thanks for any advice.
>>
>>Hi Bill,
>>
>>I have run into the same problem. Use a blue butt splice, I forget the
>>gauge wire it is for, but it works perfect. Good snug fit!! I hate to
>>splice in the old connector. Also since you have it off clean it up the
>>post a bit with a scotch bright pad.
>>
>>Good Luck
>>
>>J & R
>>
>
>
>
 

bill

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Mar 30, 2004
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Josh,
Tuesday night I have to be at the station but after 11 couuld work since I
don't have to be up early Wednesay. Let me know if that's good for you.
<joshers17@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113196345.681192.122790@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Bill...i will be around Tuesday all night till like 8 and after
> 11...lemme have a peek before we try anything
>
 
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Ewww. Get some insulated QD's from Home Depot. Both spade and terminal are
insulated so when you put them together it's double insulated. They add a
bit to the length as well. I make mine standardized with the male part on
the monitor, female on the neck board wire. These are also quicker (hence
the name) IMHO than unscrewing thecap, seperating the wires, making them
somewhat straight again, twisting them and the scre cap back on. Of course,
it will cost about 15 cents per monitor to do. :p



"Pat D" <patdanis@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:OO6dnaf-E6BybcTfRVn-3A@comcast.com...

> of the WG monitors and use a bright orange screw connector to rejoin the
> wires after I have done a cap kit.