[SOLVED] Temp Issues with CPU (I7- 5960X) Temps creeping above the normal levels.

Feb 25, 2019
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What is occurring?:
I have reapplied thermal paste a few times and fixed the problem for a few days then it slowly creeps to 60° C - 65° C resting at 1% load - 10% load. I have done some extreme research regarding this issue and still have come up with no new ideas.

When did I notice this occurring?:

My CPU went into overdrive with 100% Usage for about a total of 10 min with a normal 0% - 10% load (Just booted the computer up). Booted into safe mode and ran antivirus and found 4 malware packets. I can post if you need to review the file.

Full specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7-5960X Haswell-E 8-Core 3.0 GHz LGA 2011-v3 (never overclocked) factory clock
Cooling: Corsair Liquid Cooler H110iGTX (Running Extreme settings) One line is cold and one line is hot (Both vibrating)
Thermal Paste: IC Diamond
2 - 144mm fans intake (Speed is dynamic based on temp) running between 1200 rpm - 2000 rpm (Based on temps) average 1600 rpm - 1800 rpm.
3 - 144 mm fans for exhaust (including the fans on the liquid cooling) running between 1200 rpm - 2000 rpm (Based on temps) average 1600 rpm - 1800 rpm.
2 - internal GPU fans running 1000 rpm -1200 rpm


Normal temp levels:
0% - 10% load Resting-range 35° C - 45° C. (Internet Usage)
10% - 30% load Minor-range 45° C - 55° C. (Most common range for gaming)
30% - 50% load Mid-range 55° C - 65° C. (A RARE occurrence on the programs and games that I run that will get to this point)

What I have tried/researched:
  1. Pins on the motherboard are good. (Inspected for 30 min with a HIGH def camera)
  2. Thermal Paste has been reapplied 3 times. Twice successful reading of 35° C resting for 2 days.
  3. Room temp is ruled out. (I have a window open during winter with a fan circulating the air) This does help but I would prefer if my room was not a refrigerator/freezer.
  4. Mounting screws for the liquid cooler are tight and were tightened equally. (liquid cooler was pressed down from a 90° angle)
  5. Dust is not an issue. (Brand new case a few weeks ago) lightly cleaned all components
  6. New case to improve airflow (a very minimal effect I know
Possible Issues:
  1. The cover plate of the actual CPU LGA 2011-v3 I read had some problems on the connection on the internals and the cover plate. (Above my IT level to safely remove and reapply)
  2. The Pump could be slowing/failing (3 years old) Doesn't explain working for the 2 days and the vibration of the tubes but who knows.
  3. Thermal Paste thins out too much in the center of the CPU.
  4. Thermal Paste isn't applied correctly
Conclusion:
I have wayyy to much time on my hands for figuring this issue out. Extremely over the top description for minimal gain. I do notice performance issues with it reaching to 60° C - 65° C at low load and actually putting it under load.

I need help on this issue because I am not looking forward to buying a new CPU and possibly motherboard.
 
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Solution
one tube to pump being hot and the other cold says that no fluid is being pumped at all... (it is unrealistic to think that 100F fluid is cooled off to 68F within a 1 sec trip thru a radiator...)

Is the radiator cool to the touch? IF so, likely no fluid going thru it....

Slap on a conventional heatsink if the AIO has failed...

NH-D15 (if your case will accept a 168 mm tall heatsink/fan)
one tube to pump being hot and the other cold says that no fluid is being pumped at all... (it is unrealistic to think that 100F fluid is cooled off to 68F within a 1 sec trip thru a radiator...)

Is the radiator cool to the touch? IF so, likely no fluid going thru it....

Slap on a conventional heatsink if the AIO has failed...

NH-D15 (if your case will accept a 168 mm tall heatsink/fan)
 
Solution
one tube to pump being hot and the other cold says that no fluid is being pumped at all... (it is unrealistic to think that 100F fluid is cooled off to 68F within a 1 sec trip thru a radiator...)

Is the radiator cool to the touch? IF so, likely no fluid going thru it....

Slap on a conventional heatsink if the AIO has failed...

NH-D15 (if your case will accept a 168 mm tall heatsink/fan)
This is why I don't like AIO's, too many failure modes.
 
one tube to pump being hot and the other cold says that no fluid is being pumped at all... (it is unrealistic to think that 100F fluid is cooled off to 68F within a 1 sec trip thru a radiator...)

Is the radiator cool to the touch? IF so, likely no fluid going thru it....

Slap on a conventional heatsink if the AIO has failed...

NH-D15 (if your case will accept a 168 mm tall heatsink/fan)
I will stop by Micro Center and pick up a NH-D15 tonight after I get off work. Would you suggest me investing in building my own liquid cooling to save the money in the long run?

Added Note: I reset Windows 10 through the settings in Windows just last night. Its going to be a bit before I can test it. (Just wanted to be sure it had nothing to do with the Software side of things) I used Driver Booster 6.0 like a moron and I think thats what gave me the Malware.
 
Load is the percentage of CPU is actually being used processing data between the RAM and CPU. Load temps are just the temperatures that are averaged with the percentage used.
OK I'll rephrase, what are the temps at full load? That's temperature that's a representation of the heat energy given off by the item in question relative to the freezing point of water at std atmospheric pressure.
 
OK I'll rephrase, what are the temps at full load? That's temperature that's a representation of the heat energy given off by the item in question relative to the freezing point of water at std atmospheric pressure.
Apologies for not understanding your question. Thanks for getting back to me. It was occurring over a to small of a period for me to catch those temperatures. I was more concerned at shutting the machine down.

It did not crash so I would guess between 80° C - 90° C.
 
one tube to pump being hot and the other cold says that no fluid is being pumped at all... (it is unrealistic to think that 100F fluid is cooled off to 68F within a 1 sec trip thru a radiator...)

Is the radiator cool to the touch? IF so, likely no fluid going thru it....

Slap on a conventional heatsink if the AIO has failed...

NH-D15 (if your case will accept a 168 mm tall heatsink/fan)
Soooo... The issue is when I switched out my Case. I plugged in my Pump connector into a standard fan connector that doesn't run 12 Volts. Plugged it into my CPU connector and BOOM worked like a charm. You were in the right area that started me thinking of the pump.

Thank you for making me take a 2nd look at my cooling system. I am a moron after all. haha