Question tp-link TL-WPA7510 not delivering the speed I expected

Corobori

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I wanted to improve my connection speed in my house, replacing my old tp-link limited to 200 Mbps with a newer version that was supposed to deliver 1000 Mbps with a wifi at 750 Mbps.

I just hooked up both devices and found out that nothing has changed in my house. My wife's notebook still shows a 12 Mbps connection when running fast.com (I have a 980 Mbps connection, but I am directly connected to the router), and I noticed that the speed between the two TP-Link devices is 74 Mbps.

Any idea why ?

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I wanted to improve my connection speed in my house, replacing my old tp-link limited to 200 Mbps with a newer version that was supposed to deliver 1000 Mbps with a wifi at 750 Mbps.

I just hooked up both devices and found out that nothing has changed in my house. My wife's notebook still shows a 12 Mbps connection when running fast.com (I have a 980 Mbps connection, but I am directly connected to the router), and I noticed that the speed between the two TP-Link devices is 74 Mbps.

Any idea why ?

2025-05-28_10-31-03.jpg
There is nothing that the TP-Link can do about your wiring. The best you can do is plug DIRECTLY into wall sockets at both ends. Plugging into a power strip will hurt your performance because power strips have noise filtering. The signalling that power line adapters use is considered "noise" to the power strip.
 
I am plugged directly into the wall sockets. The only thing I can't do is to have the device vertically, as tp-link recommends.

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I am plugged directly into the wall sockets. The only thing I can't do is to have the device vertically, as tp-link recommends.

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You could try putting the power adapter that is plugged in next to your powerline adapter on a filtered power strip. It is possible that your "wall wart" power supply is causing noise that is interfering.
 
Can you take the remote unit and plug it into a another outlet in the same room as the router. This would be your best case test. It would be interesting to see what speeds the tplink thinks it gets between the units.

Powerline units tell lots of lies. They sell so called 500 units that have 100mbps ethernet ports so they know it will never get near that. It is not uncommon to get about 130mbps even on the best power line units in many houses.

Do you have coax cables near the router and in the remote room. MoCA units can actually get full gigabit speeds.
 
Powerline inherently has a lot of noise in the wire, you will never get the speed that any vendor claims, Getting 1/10 of the claimed speed or less is very common.
 
@bill001g @kanewolf Indeed, plugging the router in another outlet did improve the speed. I am getting 170 Mbps, and in my house, fast.com gives a speed of 40 Mbps. I am using the cable provided with the box "Data cable cat5e utp 26awg 4 pairs AWM PUC".

What surprises me is that my TV, which is plugged directly into the TP-Link device, shows a speed of 32 Mbps. I would have thought that using the Ethernet cable would be faster than the Wifi my wife is using.

@cruisetung 1/10 sounds a lot less than advertised !

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I was thinking about upgrading the cables. I found a local dealer selling this one: Cat8 5 M Patch Cord Sstp Rj45 Vention

Is it worth the try ?

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I was thinking about upgrading the cables. I found a local dealer selling this one: Cat8 5 M Patch Cord Sstp Rj45 Vention

Is it worth the try ?

2025-05-28_15-52-20.jpg
NO. You will not benefit from any cables beyond Cat5E. You have 1GE maximum. Cat5E or Cat6A UNSHIELDED is the cables you want. Not 7, not 8, not shielded. Any "Cat8" cable that is not $20+ is a FAKE CABLE. It is marked as "Cat8" to try and sucker people like you. It has NOT be tested to Cat8 standards.
 
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The marketing guys selling networks equipment love to tell lies....or more they intentionally mislead people.

If you use the method they use to state the speeds they are doing stuff like adding the transmit and receive speeds together. Doing this they would call a ethernet cable 2gbit. Unlike wifi,powerline and some other technology ethernet actually can send 1gbit and receive 1gbit at the same time. These other technologies are half duplex and only 1 device can transmit at the same time. Things like wifi have no control over when the end device transmits so they overlap and damage data.

It is hard to say but if the powerline is saying it only has 166 this is the total bandwidth and you likely only get 1/2 at best. Again even when it says it gets 1000 network speed the actual speed people get is about 130mbps. So you are only getting a bit over 10%.

Replacing cables likely will do nothing. If you look at the status in the router for the cable going to the powerline unit it likely shows it is connected at 1gbit. Depends on the router if there is a disaplay but you can many times also tell by the color or the lights on the port.

What is happening is the data is flowing between the router and the powerline box at 1gbit it them will sit in a buffer wating to be transfered using the powerline data protocols over the electriocal wire. Ethernet always works this way. It either runs at the full speed or it runs at zero. What you are seeing is average speeds over a number of seconds. This is being done at a much higher communication level in the software.

The time you consider replacing ethernet cables is if the cable drops to 100mbps rather than running 1gbit. This again is the connection speed you see in the status not the average thoughput. Ethernet does not run at say 200mbps. It runs at 1gbit or 100mbps....or some of the newer 2.5g, 10g etc.
 
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Just wanted to point out in the US where 240v is achieved from two out-of-phase 120v hot lines, that powerline units cannot perform well if they are installed on separate lines unless a 240V appliance such as heater or EVSE is actually running to connect them. There are phase coupler devices to allow communication between the lines when no appliance is running.

In Germany it is common for 3-phase power to be wired to homes where the 230v of any particular outlet may be from any one, so unable to communicate well with powerline units on the other two. But if OP is in Spain then they are likely to have only one hot 230v wire so shouldn't have this problem, and their powerline devices just suck.

I've long thought that it would be possible to connect at 10/100 speeds using 4 coathangers, but 1000Mbps over just two, and over long distances too is probably a bridge too far. Without any twist, the wiring in a house can accept just about any RF interference so the shorter the distance, the better.
 
While I wouldn't really recommend spending more money on power line adapters protocol can matter. G.hn performs differently than AV (based on the defunct HomePlug standards) and AV2000 is newer than AV1000 which could also make a throughput difference.

Personally speaking I'm using a TL-PA9020P across the our house crossing circuits and it's been pretty good. It's only used to connect a TV though so I've never really pushed it past 55-65Mbps.
 
NO. You will not benefit from any cables beyond Cat5E. You have 1GE maximum. Cat5E or Cat6A UNSHIELDED is the cables you want. Not 7, not 8, not shielded. Any "Cat8" cable that is not $20+ is a FAKE CABLE. It is marked as "Cat8" to try and sucker people like you. It has NOT be tested to Cat8 standards.
Understood I'll stick to the Cat5E then, I need to purchase a new cable as the one that comes with the device is too short.

BTW: no sure what you mean by "people like you", but yes I don't know much about hardware.
Replacing cables likely will do nothing. If you look at the status in the router for the cable going to the powerline unit it likely shows it is connected at 1gbit. Depends on the router if there is a disaplay but you can many times also tell by the color or the lights on the port.
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This is my router. As said above I need a new cable on one side as the one provided is a touch too short.

Just wanted to point out in the US where 240v is achieved from two out-of-phase 120v hot lines, that powerline units cannot perform well if they are installed on separate lines unless a 240V appliance such as heater or EVSE is actually running to connect them. There are phase coupler devices to allow communication between the lines when no appliance is running.
I am in the Chilean countryside where power is erratic. We have got power cuts almost once per week due to transit accident that are knocking down posts or, now in winter time, wind that are knocking down trees on the lines.
That is what I have
Voltage: 220V (single-phase, line-to-neutral) – Some older installations may still use 230V or 240V, but 220V is the modern standard.
Frequency: 50Hz
Wiring: Phase (Hot/Live) + Neutral + Ground

While I wouldn't really recommend spending more money on power line adapters protocol can matter. G.hn performs differently than AV (based on the defunct HomePlug standards) and AV2000 is newer than AV1000 which could also make a throughput difference.

Personally speaking I'm using a TL-PA9020P across the our house crossing circuits and it's been pretty good. It's only used to connect a TV though so I've never really pushed it past 55-65Mbps.

Have you or anyone reading this tried other brands? The reason I’m using this is because my internet connection reaches my office, and I need to extend it to my house, which is about 40 meters away. The Wi-Fi from the router is way too weak, and between trying a Wi-Fi amplifier and using Powerline, I chose the latter.
 
Have you or anyone reading this tried other brands? The reason I’m using this is because my internet connection reaches my office, and I need to extend it to my house, which is about 40 meters away. The Wi-Fi from the router is way too weak, and between trying a Wi-Fi amplifier and using Powerline, I chose the latter.
That is a pretty tricky situation. I don't suppose there are any coax lines running between the two? If so MoCA might be the best choice.

For G.hn adapters Zyxel would be the one to try if you wanted to try a different powerline networking protocol: PLA6456

WiFi for something like what you're looking at would likely need to be a high power unit or something that does point to point to get better performance than what you're seeing currently.