Question Troubleshoot help!

C855D

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Aug 1, 2014
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So let me give a backstory and see if anyone can manage to figure out what’s going on with my PC. I started building a PC a couple months ago. Upgraded the processor, the case, the graphics card, the motherboard. All individually at different times. None of the components are the original, but I still consider it the same computer. That being said, I have torn apart and rebuilt this computer at least 6 different times, and never had a single issue. Ever. Even with the mobo swap. Fast forward to my current situation. One of the NVME ports on my mobo stopped working so I had to get it exchanged from Amazon. I get the new one. Brand new in box. I tear the computer down in a static free environment. For reasons that would take too long to explain, I assembled the components partially outside of the case to test the new mobo (installed the mobo in case, but everything else was outside). Works perfectly. Just like my old mobo but with 2 working M.2 ports. Then today. I assemble the rest of the components in the case just as they were yesterday. Start it up. The mouse and keyboard won’t connect to Bluetooth and some of the fans connected to the NZXT Smart Device V2 aren’t working (same fans that have been working since I upgraded to a NZXT case a month or more ago). But here is where it gets interesting. I don’t think my network and Bluetooth adapter card is broken. Bluetooth connects to my Vizio desktop soundbar and my phone perfectly fine. Just not my mouse or keyboard. Also isn’t the drivers for those devices because I didn’t change the drivers from when those devices were working just the day before. And I updated the drivers again just to make sure and that didn’t change anything. Now about the fans not working. So I have 3 fans connected to the Smart Device (for those of you not familiar with NZXT products, the Smart Device is a fan/RGB hub built into the case). All have worked in the past. Now one works, one doesn’t work, and the third gets power, but I can’t control it with NZXT’s CAM app. So it’s not the Smart Device, and it’s not the fans. Then what is it? If anyone has any ideas, let me know. My computer isn’t really usable until I can find out what the hell happened. I did everything today the same exact way I’ve always done things, but something went wrong apparently.
 

C855D

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Aug 1, 2014
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Smart device, isn't. It's garbage. It does NOTHING. They are worse than fake, because they are Fake v2.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3522-nzxt-smart-device-doesnt-do-anything-cam-deep-dive
But it has always worked perfectly fine. I know the reviews of CAM and some NZXT products are not the best, but I’ve never had a problem with them. I never needed the smart device to be a fancy smart fan adjuster, I just needed a fan hub and it happened to be built in. And it’s nice to be able to adjust my fans without going to UEFI BIOS. That’s a pain in the ass. So you really think it’s the smart device that took a dump and that’s why it won’t control the fans anymore?
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
It's not a matter of CAM, because that is a separate issue to the "Smart device" from NZXT. It is just the smart device itself. Extensive testing has shown that it just doesn't actually DO anything. I don't know what else there is to say about it. I assure you, Steve from GamersNexus has taken this as deep as it can go and he says it is a nothing device. Beyond that, IDK. I believe in all cases you are probably better off either using the motherboard headers and set the fans ONE TIME in the BIOS and forget about them, or use a dedicated device like the NZXT Grid+ v3, or Phanteks has a version for about 20 bucks that works well too.
 

C855D

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Aug 1, 2014
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It's not a matter of CAM, because that is a separate issue to the "Smart device" from NZXT. It is just the smart device itself. Extensive testing has shown that it just doesn't actually DO anything. I don't know what else there is to say about it. I assure you, Steve from GamersNexus has taken this as deep as it can go and he says it is a nothing device. Beyond that, IDK. I believe in all cases you are probably better off either using the motherboard headers and set the fans ONE TIME in the BIOS and forget about them, or use a dedicated device like the NZXT Grid+ v3, or Phanteks has a version for about 20 bucks that works well too.
I was already thinking about changing the fans over to the mobo headers as a way to solve this, but now that you mention the smart device, I realize that it did really never do anything except follow a linear fan curve just like bios, sometimes not even at all. I’d be gaming and the setting would just stay on silent fan mode while my graphics card blower is just going nuts. I’ve heard the same thing about the grid V3. Everyone on Amazon reviews says its basically just another useless version of the smart device. They say that if the voltage exceeds 5W for any one fan, the whole grid of fans shuts down and cooks the computer until you realize what’s happening.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I have a Grid v2 which I use on an older system that has only two fan headers. My current system and most systems I work on, get connected to the motherboard. The Grid v3 is even better than the Grid v2. They work. The smart device, does not. The Grid devices you can actually SEE work, because if you change the settings for the fan profile in CAM, and hit apply, it instantly changes.

Now, if you're wanting something that doesn't work with an adjustable curve or custom profile, you can always get the Phanteks or Noctua controllers that allow you to either manually control speed via a rheostat dial or have individual low, high, etc. settings that are switch controlled.

Personally, I think the motherboard is the best method IF you have a motherboard that is from the last couple of years. Most of them can handle both PWM and DC controls, and can handle more than one fan per header if you get splitter cables, and once you set the final fan curve after playing around with it to see what works and what doesn't, you shouldn't have to ever go in and mess with it ever again.
 

C855D

Honorable
Aug 1, 2014
8
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10,510
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I have a Grid v2 which I use on an older system that has only two fan headers. My current system and most systems I work on, get connected to the motherboard. The Grid v3 is even better than the Grid v2. They work. The smart device, does not. The Grid devices you can actually SEE work, because if you change the settings for the fan profile in CAM, and hit apply, it instantly changes.

Now, if you're wanting something that doesn't work with an adjustable curve or custom profile, you can always get the Phanteks or Noctua controllers that allow you to either manually control speed via a rheostat dial or have individual low, high, etc. settings that are switch controlled.

Personally, I think the motherboard is the best method IF you have a motherboard that is from the last couple of years. Most of them can handle both PWM and DC controls, and can handle more than one fan per header if you get splitter cables, and once you set the final fan curve after playing around with it to see what works and what doesn't, you shouldn't have to ever go in and mess with it ever again.
I don’t really want a fan hub that bad, I am not a huge fan of intermixing brands in a PC build. Not because of brand loyalty, but because I don’t want to have to run 4 different programs to control my lighting in one, fans in another, water pump in another, PSU in yet another. So for now I will just run the fans off the mobo since I have a brand new ASUS with the X570 chipset with 5 fan headers and two pump headers. Won’t have to worry about it then. My peripherals not working is a more peculiar problem. So today I tried a different Bluetooth mouse on my computer and it worked. So it’s not the card. Then I got a new card and tried connecting my old mouse to the new card. It worked. So it’s not the peripherals and it’s not the Bluetooth/network card. So what I’m the world could it be?
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
There are only EVER two things that can cause a Bluetooth device to not work. Either the device or the receiver are broken, or there is a driver issue. Since Blueooth drivers are mainly inbuilt for Windows these days, so long as you are using Windows 10, that is USUALLY not a problem. That pretty much usually leaves either the built in Bluetooth receiver as being faulty, which technically means faulty board if I'm reading this right. Since the devices DO work with a different Bluetooth receiver card, it must be the existing one.

Perhaps you can explain in greater detail, and break it up into understandable paragraphs this time, where each paragraph underlines a specific part of the overall message. Walls of text like your original post are just way too PITA to try and decipher.
 

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