[SOLVED] Truly Stumped (appears to boot, no POST, no beeps, no display)

[BDown]

I've had a rough 2 days trying to get my new build working and I don't know what else to do at this point, I'm hoping someone has an idea that could help.

So I've had a nice stable build for several years now, I added a new graphics card last year but everything else was pretty old (2015/6) and I wanted to upgrade and start taking full advantage of my graphics card so I ordered a whole new setup (minus GPU).

Everything finally arrived and I built it Thursday night, when I went to boot it up for the first time all the lights came on (case, mobo, fans, etc), all the fans spun, then immediately everything just stopped. Only lasted for a fraction of a second. I couldn't use the power button again without disconnecting the PSU. After removing various components and testing a bunch of things I realized it might be the PSU, so I put my old (working) setup back in the case, connected the NEW PSU, and got the same result.

So now I was pretty sure the PSU was the issue, so I connected my old PSU back up to my old setup and tried to boot. All the lights were on, all the fans were spinning, but the computer never POSTed, I got no beeps, the monitor said no input, and I couldn't power off by holding the power button; pretty weird but I was exhausted and went to bed, planning to get a new PSU on Friday to try again with the new build.

Friday afternoon I got another new PSU, and since my old setup was still hooked up I tried it on that and got the same results as last night (unsurprisingly but wanted to try). With my old setup which was working as of the day prior I was a bit worried, but I went and put all of the new components back and tried the brand new PSU. This time everything didn't die immediately, but I got the same results as my old setup. All the lights and fans worked, but no POST, no beeps, no output to the monitor. It should be noted that I tried all of these tests with no GPU, then with both of the GPUs I own.

At this point I don't know what the heck is going on, given all the evidence I think the first new PSU I got potentially fried something in both of my motherboards, but I wasn't sure. So first thing this morning (Saturday) I went to Best Buy and picked up another new motherboard, put in the new CPU RAM, and used my old PSU because I know that worked. Once I got the new new build done I tried to boot it up and got the exact same results.

The only other thing I can think of is that the CPU is also a dud? Maybe the PSU fried that too?! Even if it didn't what are the odds I got so many duds in one build?! I don't know what else to try, I don't have a multimeter or anything to test electronics so I feel like I'm out of options short of ordering yet another new part, a CPU.

TL;DR
My build appears to boot, all lights and fans work, but the computer never POSTs, I get no beeps, and the monitor just says "no input", and I can't power down holding the power button for 5 seconds. I really don't think this is a PSU or Motherboard issue, but I don't know what else it could be.


So currently my build looks like this:
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C White
MOBO: Asus AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi)
SDD (boot): Silicon Power Slim S60 2.5" 240GB SATA III
HDD (storage): Can't find the stats but it's a 2TB HDD
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X
Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB PLATINUM AIO Liquid CPU Cooler,240mm,Dual (Renewed)
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)
PSU: CORSAIR CX-M series CX600M 600W 80 PLUS BRONZE


A couple of other things I have tried already:

• Reseating the CPU, RAM, GPU
• Booting with no GPU, trying the the old GTX750
• Tried booting with no RAM, and one stick (tried both sticks individually), both sticks
• Reconnected all power connectors
• Moved the PSU from a power strip directly to a wall outlet
• Inspected CPU pins, none bent
• I always try to boot with a USB keyboard and USB mouse connected
• I tested the monitor and HDMI cable by connecting my laptop an they work fine

I'm probably forgetting a lot because I've had half a dozen people who more familiar with custom builds/troubleshooting than myself, but I figured it was time to ask the experts.



Because of all of the switching, here are all of the components involved:
I am pretty sure the Seasonic 850W PSU was a dud, all of the components in the "old build" and "common components" were in use before I disassembled everything on Thursday, so they should be in working order unless they were damaged by the new PSU.

Common Components:
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C White - TG FD-CA-MESH-C-WT-TGC White Steel
GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2070 DirectX 12 RTX 2070 ARMOR 8G 8GB 256-Bit GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
SDD (boot): Silicon Power Slim S60 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) SP240GBSS3S60S25
HDD (storage): Can't find the stats but it's a 2TB HDD

Old Build:
MOBO: CORSAIR CX-M series CX600M 600W 80 PLUS BRONZE Active PFC ATX12V & EPS12V Modular Power Supply
CPU: AMD A10-7870K with AMD Quiet Cooler Quad-Core Socket FM2+ 95W AD787KXDJCSBX Desktop Processor AMD Radeon R7
Cooler: Stock Cooler
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Mode
PSU: CORSAIR CX-M series CX600M 600W 80 PLUS BRONZE Active PFC ATX12V & EPS12V Modular Power Supply

New Build:
MOBO: ASUS Prime X570-P Ryzen 3 AM4 with PCIe Gen4, Dual M.2 HDMI, SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.2 Gen 2 ATX Motherboard
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 12-core, 24-thread unlocked desktop processor
Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB PLATINUM AIO Liquid CPU Cooler,240mm,Dual ML120 PRO RGB PWM Fans,Intel 115x/2066,AMD AM4/TR4 (Renewed)
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-64GVK
PSU: Seasonic Prime 850 Titanium SSR-850TR 850W 80+ Titanium ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular 135mm FDB Fan Power On Self Tester 12 Year Warranty Power Supply


Second (NEW) Motherboard: Asus AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi)

(I've tested getting HDMI output with this on both setups)
Spare GPU: MSI N750-1GD5/OC G-SYNC Support GeForce GTX 750 1GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

 

[vov4ik_il]

IS the RAM set you have on the motherboards' QVL?

 

[BDown]

IS the RAM set you have on the motherboards' QVL?

I had no idea what a QVL was before you mentioned it. I picked out all the parts with PC Part Picker and it reported no errors, however I just checked the QVL for 3rd Gen AMD Ryzen™ Processors X570 and although it lists a G.SKILL F4-3600C16D-32GVKC 32GB(16GB*2), it does NOT list my configuration (F4-3200C16D-64GVK).

Could it really be that simple? I'll look into some other options ASAP.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Could it really be that simple? I'll look into some other options ASAP.

While it does not have to, it very well could, especially with AMD... I faced it a few times.

 

[MeanMachine41]

The Asus AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi) has a series of Q-LEDs located top right of your MB. They are for troubleshooting during POST cycle. Post will not advance till the problem is fixed.

The bottom led is for RAM and if it lights up yellow and stays on then you have an issue with your RAM. Same is for the other LEDs and any that stay on then there is an issue. Unless your MB is equipped with a MB speaker then you would not hear any beeps.
Eliminate the possibility of RAM being the issue by installing just one DIMM in slot A2 furthest from the CPU socket.
Try switching modules around into the same socket.
Ensure your RAM module is seated correctly especially the offside to the clip.
Power up the system and observe the LEDs. report their behavior.

Also, If RAM kits do not appear on the Motherboard QVL then they have not been tested. It does not necessarily mean they will not work however more difficult to reach their rated frequency.

You have chosen G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) which will put considerable strain on the IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) which is on the CPU chip. Your kit are 3200MHz OC RAM so no guarantee you will gat their rated frequency.
May I ask the reason for 64GB of RAM.?

 

[BDown]

The Asus AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi) has a series of Q-LEDs located top right of your MB. They are for troubleshooting during POST cycle. Post will not advance till the problem is fixed.

The bottom led is for RAM and if it lights up yellow and stays on then you have an issue with your RAM. Same is for the other LEDs and any that stay on then there is an issue. Unless your MB is equipped with a MB speaker then you would not hear any beeps.
Eliminate the possibility of RAM being the issue by installing just one DIMM in slot A2 furthest from the CPU socket.
Try switching modules around into the same socket.
Ensure your RAM module is seated correctly especially the offside to the clip.
Power up the system and observe the LEDs. report their behavior.

Also, If RAM kits do not appear on the Motherboard QVL then they have not been tested. It does not necessarily mean they will not work however more difficult to reach their rated frequency.

You have chosen G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) which will put considerable strain on the IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) which is on the CPU chip. Your kit are 3200MHz OC RAM so no guarantee you will gat their rated frequency.
May I ask the reason for 64GB of RAM.?

I tried booting up again and this time I watched the LEDs but none of them lit up. I tried both sticks individually (in slot A2) but same results both times. I even tried with no sticks at all and none of the LEDs lit up, so maybe it's not even getting that far?

I picked the 2x32GB configuration just because 64GB is plenty of RAM but also left 2 free slots in the unlikely event I ever wanted more. I didn't know there was such a thing as too much, but I ordered a 4x16GB configuration which was listed on the QVL, just to be safe, but after these LED tests I'm not sure that will make a difference.

 

[vov4ik_il]

tried booting up again and this time I watched the LEDs but none of them lit up.

Let's rewind back to... breadboarding.
Take physically out all you can - no HDDs, no GPU, no RAM. Just CPU+Cooler+Motherboard+PSU and check out the LEDs.
Hook up a speaker if you have one.

 

[BDown]

Let's rewind back to... breadboarding.
Take physically out all you can - no HDDs, no GPU, no RAM. Just CPU+Cooler+Motherboard+PSU and check out the LEDs.
Hook up a speaker if you have one.

OK, I just started it up with only the following connected:

• PSU
• CPU
• Cooler (the cooler has 2 fans connected to a radiator, each fan has 2 plugs, one for power, one for RGB colors, both connect directly to the component on top of the CPU and not the motherboard)
• The main component of the AIO water cooler has a USB to motherboard connector, which I also left connected
• The PWR_SW pin connector from the case

I let it run for about 60 seconds and didn't any of the LEDs light up on the motherboard, it behaved the same as it did before

 

[vov4ik_il]

OK, I just started it up with only the following connected:

• PSU
• CPU
• Cooler (the cooler has 2 fans connected to a radiator, each fan has 2 plugs, one for power, one for RGB colors, both connect directly to the component on top of the CPU and not the motherboard)
• The main component of the AIO water cooler has a USB to motherboard connector, which I also left connected
• The PWR_SW pin connector from the case

I let it run for about 60 seconds and didn't any of the LEDs light up on the motherboard, it behaved the same as it did before

The 8 pin CPU power was connected, right?
Is the other RAM set on its' way? I still tend to blame it, but following the logic in this case the LEDs should indicate no RAM which they apparently do not... It might be a bug or a faulty motherboard. You will surely find it out when you get the right set of memory modules.

 

[MeanMachine41]

I tried booting up again and this time I watched the LEDs but none of them lit up. I tried both sticks individually (in slot A2) but same results both times. I even tried with no sticks at all and none of the LEDs lit up, so maybe it's not even getting that far?

I picked the 2x32GB configuration just because 64GB is plenty of RAM but also left 2 free slots in the unlikely event I ever wanted more. I didn't know there was such a thing as too much, but I ordered a 4x16GB configuration which was listed on the QVL, just to be safe, but after these LED tests I'm not sure that will make a difference.

For most apps and gaming you do not need more than 16GB (2x8) so 3 of your sticks may never be used.
Tasks such as 3D CAD Rendering or processing massive Video files benefits from more RAM otherwise your paying for something you don't need.
Your RAM LED not lighting up indicates a possible fault with the PSU or damaged or insecure cabling. Use a multimeter to check voltages from the PSU. If that voltage test indicates OK rail voltage then it's the Motherboard.

 

[BDown]

The 8 pin CPU power was connected, right?

I just realized this was my error about 30 minutes ago, when I was setting everything up I wasn't sure about the EATX12V1 and EATX12V2 connectors and everything I found online indicated those were only needed for overclocking. I was checking the manual and found that the 8 pin is required, so I connect that and BOOM, it booted for the first time.

Man I sure feel stupid but I'm glad everything seems to be working now. Thanks everyone for your help, and sorry for wasting everyone's time cuz I'm a big dummy. Next time I'll RTFM before posting online for help.

 

[BDown]

For most apps and gaming you do not need more than 16GB (2x8) so 3 of your sticks may never be used.
Tasks such as 3D CAD Rendering or processing massive Video files benefits from more RAM otherwise your paying for something you don't need.

I a good bit of photo and video editing but I think 64GB is still plenty for me. I ordered a new configuration that is 4x16GB and was listed in the QVL so I know there won't be any issues. Thanks for the advice!

 

[itsallpoo]

Don't feel stupid, we've all done it. I had one build many years ago problem turned out to be a screw had insinuated himself under the motherboard and was shorting to something this is experience and you won't do that one again I assure you, LOL.