TSPP VUK not sensing

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Hi, after a bit over two years, my TSPP has developed a problem of sorts.
I turned it on today and started playing, and it does not sense when a ball
has gone into the VUK, either via the garage door or the left ramp. After
a few seconds it will go into ball search mode and kick the ball into the
upper pf. It consistently does not detect it, even after a power cycle.
What's the best way of fixing this? I raised the pf and can see the VUK
at the bottom left, do I need to unscrew it and remove it and fiddle with
the switch, or what? Thanks...

Jim McCullars
Huntsville, AL

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Go into diagnostic portals, go into switch test and check the switch. If not
working then remove the switch and check it by itslef, if not working
replace it. If working, then figure out if it needs adjusting so the ball
trips it, or in you have a wiring problem, broken or loose connection on the
same row or column of the switch matrix it is on. LTG

"Jim McCullars" <jim@info2.uah.edu> wrote in message
news:d94t6r$nmd$1@info2.uah.edu...
> Hi, after a bit over two years, my TSPP has developed a problem of sorts.
> I turned it on today and started playing, and it does not sense when a
ball
> has gone into the VUK, either via the garage door or the left ramp. After
> a few seconds it will go into ball search mode and kick the ball into the
> upper pf. It consistently does not detect it, even after a power cycle.
> What's the best way of fixing this? I raised the pf and can see the VUK
> at the bottom left, do I need to unscrew it and remove it and fiddle with
> the switch, or what? Thanks...
>
> Jim McCullars
> Huntsville, AL
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

you answered it, if no wire is off or diode is not broken then take it out
and bend switch up slightly cause it is stuck down making contact. Some
other person asked today about his T3 same problem with those y shaped
switches, just readjust and then you are good.

Trin
"Jim McCullars" <jim@info2.uah.edu> wrote in message
news:d94t6r$nmd$1@info2.uah.edu...
> Hi, after a bit over two years, my TSPP has developed a problem of sorts.
> I turned it on today and started playing, and it does not sense when a
> ball
> has gone into the VUK, either via the garage door or the left ramp. After
> a few seconds it will go into ball search mode and kick the ball into the
> upper pf. It consistently does not detect it, even after a power cycle.
> What's the best way of fixing this? I raised the pf and can see the VUK
> at the bottom left, do I need to unscrew it and remove it and fiddle with
> the switch, or what? Thanks...
>
> Jim McCullars
> Huntsville, AL
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

My TSPP had the same problem with both of the Y-shaped switches (in the
VUK and in the I&S hole). Bend up slightly...problem solved. The VUK
is kind of a pain to take apart due to it's location, but it isn't too
bad of a job. Good luck.

Ted

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

More than likely this is actually a failed microswitch. Mine had the
same problem. It's easy to test using a jumper to close the switch
manually. Just go into the switch test and use a jumper to connect the
normally open terminal of the switch to the return. Clay's guide will
give you more info on how to do this http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm. If
the switch doesn't register when the Y is pressed, but does register
when jumpered, it's a bad switch.

Hint, you can use a toothpick to pull down the switch from below
through the swich slot to actuate it when the playfield is raised.
This makes it much easier to test than pulling off all the stuff above.

h_h

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

heckheck (jsurf@heckheck.com) wrote:

: Hint, you can use a toothpick to pull down the switch from below
: through the swich slot to actuate it when the playfield is raised.

Yeah, I was wondering the best way to do that.

Thanks for everyone who replied.

Jim McCullars

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

This just came up a few days ago WRT T3. It's the
microswitch. I messed with bending the metal "Y" but
that would just buy time until the switch failed again.

The question is, was there a bad bunch of microswitches
in a production run of VUK assemblies, or does the design
of the VUK cause the switches to fail?

-Mark
--
http://pinballpal.com/

"heckheck" <jsurf@heckheck.com> wrote in message
news:1119277777.538509.284820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> More than likely this is actually a failed microswitch. Mine had the
> same problem. It's easy to test using a jumper to close the switch
> manually. Just go into the switch test and use a jumper to connect the
> normally open terminal of the switch to the return. Clay's guide will
> give you more info on how to do this http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm. If
> the switch doesn't register when the Y is pressed, but does register
> when jumpered, it's a bad switch.
>
> Hint, you can use a toothpick to pull down the switch from below
> through the swich slot to actuate it when the playfield is raised.
> This makes it much easier to test than pulling off all the stuff above.
>
> h_h
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

it is the weak ass metal on the y switch that gets pushed down too far so
ball cant actuate the micro switch. I adjusted one two weeks out of box and
still running almost two years later. I bent it up a little higher, not the
microswitch itself, problem in metal used and design of the y or v blade.

Trin
"Mark Clayton" <spamuser1602@i87.com> wrote in message
news:R%Cte.25887$IX4.3188@twister.nyc.rr.com...
> This just came up a few days ago WRT T3. It's the
> microswitch. I messed with bending the metal "Y" but
> that would just buy time until the switch failed again.
>
> The question is, was there a bad bunch of microswitches
> in a production run of VUK assemblies, or does the design
> of the VUK cause the switches to fail?
>
> -Mark
> --
> http://pinballpal.com/
>
> "heckheck" <jsurf@heckheck.com> wrote in message
> news:1119277777.538509.284820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>> More than likely this is actually a failed microswitch. Mine had the
>> same problem. It's easy to test using a jumper to close the switch
>> manually. Just go into the switch test and use a jumper to connect the
>> normally open terminal of the switch to the return. Clay's guide will
>> give you more info on how to do this http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm. If
>> the switch doesn't register when the Y is pressed, but does register
>> when jumpered, it's a bad switch.
>>
>> Hint, you can use a toothpick to pull down the switch from below
>> through the swich slot to actuate it when the playfield is raised.
>> This makes it much easier to test than pulling off all the stuff above.
>>
>> h_h
>>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Lloyd Olson writes:

>Go into diagnostic portals, go into switch test and check the switch. If not
>working then remove the switch and check it by itslef, if not working
>replace it.

Who is a good source for that switch? The part number is 180-5116-01.
Will Stern sell me a couple, or should I contact a reseller? Thanks...

Jim McCullars
Huntsville, AL

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

You'll need a reseller. Pinball Resource, FAO, Action Pinball, Rick at Bay
Area, etc. LTG

"Jim McCullars" <jim@info2.uah.edu> wrote in message
news:da7k35$lfa$1@info2.uah.edu...
> Lloyd Olson writes:
>
> >Go into diagnostic portals, go into switch test and check the switch. If
not
> >working then remove the switch and check it by itslef, if not working
> >replace it.
>
> Who is a good source for that switch? The part number is 180-5116-01.
> Will Stern sell me a couple, or should I contact a reseller? Thanks...
>
> Jim McCullars
> Huntsville, AL
>