Question TUF Gaming X570, Yellow DRAM Light, Won't POST

[Helimech]

CPU AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
MOBO ASUS AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus
RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB DDR4 3200 (4X8)
GPU GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 2070
Case Antec Dark Avenger DA601 E-ATX Mid Tower
PS CORSAIR CX-M Series CX650M
SSD Samsung 970 EVO VVMe M.2 SSD 500GB


I was playing Flight Sim and computer just shut off. Turned it back on and all fans run but no post. The yellow diagnostic DRAM light is on now and stays on. I have not been able to solve this issue. The following is what I have done so far. I cleared the CMOS and try to start the computer after each step with the same results.

• Removed all 4 DIMM sticks, cleaned contacts and reinstalled.
• Installed 1 DIMM stick individually, first in A2 then B2. I did this with all 4 DIMM sticks.
• Tested the Power supply per Corsair test procedure. All grounds and voltages on the ATX 24pin and EATX12V 8pin connectors were correct.
• Installed a new CPU (same model)
• Replaced the Motherboard with a new one (same model)
• Replaced BIOS Battery

Computer refuses to POST and diagnostic DRAM light comes on and stays on. I have some new DIMMs coming soon so fingers crossed. Can’t imagine all 4 DIMMs failing at once.
Any help would be GREAT! I'm ready to put a bullet thru this thing.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Are you using a power strip or UPS battery backup between the power supply and the wall outlet?

If so, eliminate them, at least for now.

Did you try the new CPU with the new motherboard, or did you test the new CPU in the old motherboard the the old CPU in the new motherboard? Because, it's always possible that both both the CPU and motherboard took a crap at the same time. It's unlikely, but not unheard of.

Unlikely as it might seem to be considering the DRAM light is on, I'd test with a different graphics card if you have access to one. Even just a very basic model is fine. I'd also look more closely at the PSU. Just because the voltages tested out ok doesn't mean the unit doesn't have a problem. Unless you tested with an adequate load you might not be seeing the full picture.

I'd remove the whole works from the case, if you haven't already, and also remove the drive, test with as minimal hardware as possible OUTSIDE the case, on a cardboard box or the box the motherboard came in, on the table or countertop or work bench.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

Also, I'd make sure the problem isn't related to the monitor or display cable as well.

 

[Helimech]

Are you using a power strip or UPS battery backup between the power supply and the wall outlet?

If so, eliminate them, at least for now.

Did you try the new CPU with the new motherboard, or did you test the new CPU in the old motherboard the the old CPU in the new motherboard? Because, it's always possible that both both the CPU and motherboard took a crap at the same time. It's unlikely, but not unheard of.

Unlikely as it might seem to be considering the DRAM light is on, I'd test with a different graphics card if you have access to one. Even just a very basic model is fine. I'd also look more closely at the PSU. Just because the voltages tested out ok doesn't mean the unit doesn't have a problem. Unless you tested with an adequate load you might not be seeing the full picture.

I'd remove the whole works from the case, if you haven't already, and also remove the drive, test with as minimal hardware as possible OUTSIDE the case, on a cardboard box or the box the motherboard came in, on the table or countertop or work bench.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

Also, I'd make sure the problem isn't related to the monitor or display cable as well.

New CPU was tested with old motherboard. New motherboard was tested with old CPU. Motherboard was returned. New PSU arriving today because I had the same thought as you that maybe under load it fails but is ok during the testing of voltages. New Dimm's have arrived but I'm goin to try the new PSU first. I've been testing with the PSU outside the case and the motherboard it pretty accessible. I've been testing in my shop with no monitor or video cable connected just looking to post right now then I'll move it back to the monitors. I'll report back on any findings. Thanks for your ideas.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Certainly. Let me know what you find.

 

[Helimech]

Well I installed a new PSU (Corsair RM850x) and the issue was the same. I then tried the new DIMMs and the problem is gone! It now posts and boots normally. How do 4 DIMMS fail at the same time??? I might try to reinstall them just to convince myself that they are really bad. What's your guess on how much a strip mall computer repair shop would charge to test these 4 DIMMS? Thanks for your help with this.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I can't speak for other small operations like mine, but if was me, I'd probably charge somebody like 25 bucks for the few minutes it would take to pop those DIMMs into a machine and verify that they work. That might seem like a lot for ten minutes worth of work, but since it's my hardware they are going into and since I'm taking the risk that somebody's DIMMs might kill MY motherboard, it's a price that seems fair to me. What somebody else charges for this, I can't say as I've never taken anything to anybody else ever in the last 35 years. I mean, why would I? LOL

I've been doing this since elementary school back in the early 80's to some degree or other so I never had the need to. What you should do is call around to all the reputable local shops and ask them what they would charge to test and verify whether a set of four DIMMs works together or not and whether each of them individually is working.

 

[Helimech]

I can't speak for other small operations like mine, but if was me, I'd probably charge somebody like 25 bucks for the few minutes it would take to pop those DIMMs into a machine and verify that they work. That might seem like a lot for ten minutes worth of work, but since it's my hardware they are going into and since I'm taking the risk that somebody's DIMMs might kill MY motherboard, it's a price that seems fair to me. What somebody else charges for this, I can't say as I've never taken anything to anybody else ever in the last 35 years. I mean, why would I? LOL

I've been doing this since elementary school back in the early 80's to some degree or other so I never had the need to. What you should do is call around to all the reputable local shops and ask them what they would charge to test and verify whether a set of four DIMMs works together or not and whether each of them individually is working.

Thanks. I'm going to upgrade this system to a 7-5800x so the DIMMs I got to test the system were 3600 (seems to be the sweet spot for the 5800x) instead of 3200. I'm thinking of putting these 3200's up for sale but would like to know if they are good. $25 seem reasonable to me. Still bothers me that I didn't find a smoking gun that would take down 4 DIMMs. Odd machines these computer things. Cheers, JC