I have just bought an Arctic Freezer 3 AIO 2 days ago and nothing has changed, i think my only solution is to undervolt
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.
You might want to address the thermal solution in your build. Arctic has a couple of Liquid Freezer III's in their portfolio, which one do you have and how is it mounted in your build?
Once we've figured out that your AIO is setup the right way, then you can look into undervolting. If your cooling isn't proper, then your undervolting is just a stop gap, not a proper(long term) solution.
PBO varies from chip to chip, some people have enabled PBO and haven't seen any thermal issues. Others have enabled PBO and seen temps climb up a little. Thought I'd address that and no PBO doesn't equate to undervolting.
Apologies, here are my specs:
CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8ghz base boost
CPU Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 A-RGB
Motherboard: Asus Rog Strix B550-F Gaming
Ram: 4x8 Corsair Vengeance (3200 Mhz)
SSD/HDD: Got 2 Sata SSDs (256gb crucial, 1TB Crucial), 2TB HDD (Seagate), 2 NVMes (1 gen 3 XPG Gammix, 1 gen 4 WD SN580 blue)
GPU: RTX 4070 TI Super
PSU: Cooler Master G Gold 750W V2
Chassis : Antec C3 ARGB Mid tower White
OS: Win 11 Pro
Monitor: Dual Monitor, Primary (LG Ultragear 2k IPS, not sure if this is the right model "27GL850-B"), Secondary (MSI Optix G27C4) full HD
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.
The PSU, 2 additional ram slots (2x8) and GPU I have just bought 3 days ago as an upgrade from my previous build.
You might want to address the thermal solution in your build. Arctic has a couple of Liquid Freezer III's in their portfolio, which one do you have and how is it mounted in your build?
Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 A-RGB. It is mounted as the default, the radiator is mounted on the case's top
Use Curve Optimizer in BIOS and set all core to negative -20 to start with. Alternatively try to set ECO mode to 65W and test. If it was habitually running too hot you may even gain performance.
I have tried using Curve Optimizer by using Ryzen Master and/or setting some values myself in the BIOS. For some weird reason, there are 2 places where there is "Precision Boost Overdrive", so I'm setting in both the exact same configs. I tried -21 and -25 but it had no effect other than the Core clock speeds under stress test are only going as fast as 4.4 GHz instead of the default 4.8 max
I have not tried ECO mode yet, but I have a question regarding this: shouldn't this typically going to ECO mode (aka lowering wattage to 65W) have my system perform way lower than normal, or potentially losing significant performance?