Question Unexplainable Bsod but only at my house

[Sever2k]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post here, and i come to you because i can't seem to find a solution or a cause for my problem.

So my Pc since 2 months ago or so, started getting daily blue screens, but they would only happen with the Pc doing light stuff, like browsing or even just being turned on.
I would never get a blue screen while gaming or while having a game open.

It went from having one per day to 2 or 3 per day, but still never happened while gaming. So i basically had enough and took it to the repair shop (the owner is a friend).
He took it and stress tested it, everything came out good with no issues, and while it was there it didn't crash a single time, since we were at it i told him to do a fresh install of windows 11.
After doing that and bringing the Pc home it went from having 2 or 3 Bsod per day, to having one every 15 minutes or so. I told the repair guy this and he just got super confused by that, so he took my pc again, stress tested it again and while with him it had yet again 0 Bsod.

So we decided to try out removing my RAM sticks and trying it with one stick that he had there, so i brought it home, plugged it in and almost as it finishes booting up it gets a Bsod. I tried it 2 more times and each one with the same result, as soon as it finishes booting windows, 10 or so seconds later it gets a Bluescreen.
So i'm all out of ideas for what it can be, since i've actually seen it being stress tested and the duration and it was fine, like i said.

My build is as follows:
- CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
- Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
- GPU: Nvidia RTX 2060
- RAM: Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3600Mhz
- Harddrive: SSD Samsung 1TB 870 QVO
- PSU: Nox Hummer (i don't know more about it sorry)

Now i have some dump files from the Bsod: https://files.catbox.moe/wdob85.zip
The Bsod are always the same as the ones in those dumps.

Things i have tried so far:
A different outlet.
A different power strip.
A surge protection power strip.
Upgrading BIOS.
Turning off XMP (it actually made it so that the pc went about 10 or so hours without a bsod, but then when i turned it on again they were back with a vengeance, so i then turned it off again but to no avail)
Changing the RAM slots, and then also trying with each one of my RAM sticks individually
A new power cable.
Energy mode in performance mode
Also different peripherals.

If anyone could give any pointers i would be very thankful.
Thank you to everyone reading this in advance.

 

[Teknoman2]

You need an exorcist.
It must be caused by a device you have connected to it at home and is not there at the repair shop. Even the mouse or keyboard could be the cause.

 

[Sever2k]

You need an exorcist.
It must be caused by a device you have connected to it at home and is not there at the repair shop. Even the mouse or keyboard could be the cause.

So my father has his desktop in the living room, so i took mine there, and connected it to the same spot as his one, and used his mouse and keyboard and monitor and also (his wifi receiver since i wanted to test it with games there).
And it still got Bsod.

I forgot to mention something on the original post, the Pc always had freezes since i bought it in 2020, they would happen every 6 or so months, and it kept happening until recently.

 

[Teknoman2]

I really can't think of anything. It can be something so insignificant or bizarre that you could only find randomly and wouldn't even consider possible to be it.
I had a friend who's brand new PC didn't turn on. He took it for service under warranty and they told him that it worked fine but every time he tried to turn it on at home nothing. He asked me for help and told him to bring it to my place... it worked fine. After days of trying all kind of things to no avail, we randomly found that it was the mouse causing it. The mouse worked fine on any other PC, his PC worked fine with any other mouse but that one mouse on that one PC caused it to not turn on.

 

[stonecarver]

Can I ask just a simple question. When at the shop did you notice if the repair shop when testing your computer had it laying on it's side.

If so than in a weird way it simi fixed itself while he worked on it.

If you have a mechanical hard drive if it's finnicky and has lived vertical mounted now will only play nice horizonal.

Found this out working on HP and Dells that do vertical mount and the drive starts to go south.

Having the PC on it's side also takes the weight off the GPU.

Not saying it's your power supply but I have built computers for many people and worked just fine when it left me only to blue screen when it got to the owners home.

Long story short pop out the power supply with different brand or model and all was good.

Funny thing those power supplies that gave issue have worked here in the shop just fine for years now.

Between your PC and your Dads PC his power supply just deals with the wall outlet power good or bad.

Also just maybe how you push in the power button vs how the repair shop guy pushed it in might also be a clue. Sometimes they get stuck between latched and unlatched and that can play havoc.

 

[Sever2k]

Can I ask just a simple question. When at the shop did you notice if the repair shop when testing your computer had it laying on it's side.

If so than in a weird way it simi fixed itself while he worked on it.

If you have a mechanical hard drive if it's finnicky and has lived vertical mounted now will only play nice horizonal.

Found this out working on HP and Dells that do vertical mount and the drive starts to go south.

Having the PC on it's side also takes the weight off the GPU.

Not saying it's your power supply but I have built computers for many people and worked just fine when it left me only to blue screen when it got to the owners home.

Long story short pop out the power supply with different brand or model and all was good.

Funny thing those power supplies that gave issue have worked here in the shop just fine for years now.

Between your PC and your Dads PC his power supply just deals with the wall outlet power good or bad.

Also just maybe how you push in the power button vs how the repair shop guy pushed it in might also be a clue. Sometimes they get stuck between latched and unlatched and that can play havoc.

The Pc was upright when he was testing it, and mine has an SSD.

I have a couple of friends that are "helping" me with ideas to solve this, and one of them mentioned "dirty" electricity, while another mentioned the PSU like yourself.

If it's dirty electricity i don't have the knowledge to see if that's the case in my house or even the equipment, while the PSU i can try and see if my friend from the shop could replace it.
The button part i don't know about that, never seemed to get stuck with me so i have no clue.

 

[geofelt]

Check your wall outlet for polarity and grounding.
A simple $10 tester may do it:
https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Teste...cphy=9011555&hvtargid=pla-2281435178338&psc=1

Past that, try replacing your psu with a quality replacement of sufficient wattage.
From what I can tell, the nox hummer is used in pre built pc's and carries only a 2 year warranty.
A quality psu will have a 7 or 10 year warranty.

I have had similar symptoms, and the answer was to replace the PSU.

 

[Moonstick2]

Given that NOX don't appear to be well thought-of in general (this tier list places them in the very lowest category, for example) I think you should replace that. Chances are there's some imperfections in your home supply (maybe caused by something else on the circuit) that the cheap PSU has trouble dealing with. If your father's desktop is okay, any quality PSU you buy should be as well.

 

[Sever2k]

I think i will try both solutions, i will try to get a tester like the one geofelt recommended, and see if it indicates any issue with the electrical instalation or provider, and if it shows nothing i will buy a new PSU.


I tried to approach the store guy today about we trying out another PSU at my house to see if it would solve it but he dismissed it, and i didn't had much time to talk with him so i left it at that.


But this is already too many people pointing to either PSU or electrical issues for me to ignore.
Thank you guys for your tips, i will keep this updated until i fix it.

 

[Sever2k]

So a bit of an update: we finally found what is causing the bsod.

Its the internet coonection. So if the pc is connected either via cable or usb wireless adapter he has bsod, but if we remove the internet connection he runs just fine and that was the common denominator when trying the pc at the repair shop or at another house.

 

[Sever2k]

Hey guys,

I made a post a couple of months ago here, about how i was having blue screens but only at my house, and they were all ntoskrnl.exe.
Well i've since discovered that my house is not the issue, but basically having an internet connection.

So my pc will not get a bsod if i unplugg the ethernet cable (i've left it running for 10 hours straight and many more times for 2 or 3 hours without having a bsod).
If i boot it in Safe mode with internet connection, he will also not crash with bsod (tried it a couple of times for like 3 to 4 hours, with no bsod).

But if i use it normally with internet connection, he will get a Bsod after around 1hour and 30 minutes, give or take. (It used to be a lot shorter like every 5 minutes to every 20 minutes, but now it's happening every 1:30hours or so).

I've tried everything under the sun, except replacing CPU/Mobo, here is a quick list of what i've tried:

- A different outlet.
- A different power strip.
- A surge protection power strip.
- A new power cable.
- Energy mode in performance mode
- Also different peripherals.
- Fresh Windows install
- Updating Drivers. Reverting drivers to the basic ones. Updating again.
- Updating BIOS and Chipset
- Trying with 1 ram stick. Trying with the other one. Doing it in different slots. And also trying a completely different Ram stick.
- All the Cmd, comands and none of them noticed any errors.
- Stress testing the pc several times, with no issues detected.
- Turning XMP off
- Tried using the internet via USB Wifi adapter and it still crashed
- Tried using a USB Ethernet adapter, with my network adapter turned off and it still crashed
- Tried the stock ethernet driver and the most recent one, and the result is the same
- Clean boot
- Windows in place upgrade
(and maybe more that i'm not remembering it)

After i did the Windows in place upgrade, and i removed the Amd drivers, and installed the most recent ones from my Bios website the code on the bluescreens has changed in 3 of the last 4.
Before they would exclusively just be ntoskrnl.exe without bug check string, but now on those 3 it's still caused by ntoskrnl.exe but with the string: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL.

Another thing to notice and that i'm doing right now, is that if i run Driver verifier he will not get a Bsod, at least for the time that i have been running it.
I've done it like 3 times, each one with an up time of 3 to 4 hours with no Bsod, but if i turn driver verifier off and use it normally i get the Bsod after 1hour and 30 minutes or so.
So i can't provide dumps while using verifier because he hasn't crashed sinced.

This is the link to the most recent ones:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/r866...ey=l0j9rrfyco2vnkjx1djvgib6s&st=129cajxn&dl=0

My specs:
- CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
- Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
- GPU: Nvidia RTX 2060
- RAM: Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3600Mhz
- Harddrive: SSD Samsung 1TB 870 QVO
- PSU: Nox Hummer

I really appreacite it if someone can take a look at the dumps and point me in the right direction to solve this, since i've been at this since April.

Thank you very much.

 

[Lutfij]

Please stick to one thread, this helps keep thoughts concise and on topic.

 

[Misgar]

So my pc will not get a bsod if i unplugg the ethernet cable

I wonder if it's a faulty PSU used to power your Ethernet router or switch?

To explain. Many broadband routers and network switches with Ethernet ports are powered by small mains "bricks" with a +12V DC or similar output. It might be +5V, it could be +24V.

It's common for mains bricks to have only two pins connected on the mains side, i.e. Line and Neutral only. If the PSU is Class 2, double isolated, it won't use the mains safety earth.

Most switched mode PSUs contain Class-X and/or Class-Y RFI filter capacitors on the mains input. Sometimes leakage currents from these capacitors feed through on to the +12V DC output (at high impedance).

The result (on rare occasions) is you can end up with not only +12V and 0V DC connections to the broadband router/switch, but also a 50Hz or 60Hz high impedance mains voltage of several tens of Volts.

This mains voltage (which isn't normally dangerous or above the SELV limit) gets passed through the broadband router/switch and appears on the Ethernet cable feed to the computer.

The computer is normally grounded to the mains safety earth unless you have a faulty mains outlet in your home. Hence you have one grounded unit (computer) and one non-grounded unit (router/switch).

When you connect an Ethernet cable with a high impedance mains voltage superimposed on the data and 0V wires, the AC voltage affects the sensitive logic circuits in the PC which are probably powered from +5V.

Several volts RMS (or higher) at 50/60Hz superimposed on the +5V/0V DC Ethernet signals could cause the computer to crash.

As a check, disconnect the DC PSU from the broadband router. Get a cheap multimeter and set it to an AC Volts range, e.g. 200V AC. If the meter has a 20V AC range, try that.

Connect one meter lead to the barrel of the DC power jack (0V) and the other meter lead to the mains safety earth.

The meter should read 0V AC with the DC power brick switched off.

Plug the DC power brick into the AC mains, switch on and check the meter again. If you see several volts AC or higher, you've got AC leakage through to the DC output of the PSU.

Find another DC power brick with the same output voltage and current rating, e.g. 12V at 2.0A. Set the multimeter to the 20V DC range. Check the DC polarity of both supplies is the same. Normally the inner socket on the DC jack is positive and the outer barrel negative. Do NOT use another brick with a different DC output voltage.

Check the new DC brick with the meter on the 200V (or 20V) AC range, to see if there is any leakage component on the new DC brick. If none, use the new DC brick to power the broadband router and connect the Ethernet cable to the computer.

With any luck, the fault will have disappeared.

 

[Sever2k]

I wonder if it's a faulty PSU used to power your Ethernet router or switch?

To explain. Many broadband routers and network switches with Ethernet ports are powered by small mains "bricks" with a +12V DC or similar output. It might be +5V, it could be +24V.

It's common for mains bricks to have only two pins connected on the mains side, i.e. Line and Neutral only. If the PSU is Class 2, double isolated, it won't use the mains safety earth.

Most switched mode PSUs contain Class-X and/or Class-Y RFI filter capacitors on the mains input. Sometimes leakage currents from these capacitors feed through on to the +12V DC output (at high impedance).

The result (on rare occasions) is you can end up with not only +12V and 0V DC connections to the broadband router/switch, but also a 50Hz or 60Hz high impedance mains voltage of several tens of Volts.

This mains voltage (which isn't normally dangerous or above the SELV limit) gets passed through the broadband router/switch and appears on the Ethernet cable feed to the computer.

The computer is normally grounded to the mains safety earth unless you have a faulty mains outlet in your home. Hence you have one grounded unit (computer) and one non-grounded unit (router/switch).

When you connect an Ethernet cable with a high impedance mains voltage superimposed on the data and 0V wires, the AC voltage affects the sensitive logic circuits in the PC which are probably powered from +5V.

Several volts RMS (or higher) at 50/60Hz superimposed on the +5V/0V DC Ethernet signals could cause the computer to crash.

As a check, disconnect the DC PSU from the broadband router. Get a cheap multimeter and set it to an AC Volts range, e.g. 200V AC. If the meter has a 20V AC range, try that.

Connect one meter lead to the barrel of the DC power jack (0V) and the other meter lead to the mains safety earth.

The meter should read 0V AC with the DC power brick switched off.

Plug the DC power brick into the AC mains, switch on and check the meter again. If you see several volts AC or higher, you've got AC leakage through to the DC output of the PSU.

Find another DC power brick with the same output voltage and current rating, e.g. 12V at 2.0A. Set the multimeter to the 20V DC range. Check the DC polarity of both supplies is the same. Normally the inner socket on the DC jack is positive and the outer barrel negative. Do NOT use another brick with a different DC output voltage.

Check the new DC brick with the meter on the 200V (or 20V) AC range, to see if there is any leakage component on the new DC brick. If none, use the new DC brick to power the broadband router and connect the Ethernet cable to the computer.

With any luck, the fault will have disappeared.

Thank you for your reply Misgar.

So the tech repair guy to where i take my pc was also suspecting the router, but for other reasons.
He ended up insisting with me to contact my ISP and ask them to do a factory reset on it or even change it.

I did the factory reset and the PC worked fine for 3 days, then the BSOD came back, so i called the ISP, explained the situation and they were kind enough to switch the router with a more recent one.
That includes the PSU, which is a brande new one also, and one hour after installing the new router i got again BSOD.

I might try to get some equipment to test your theory, since the tech guy is on vacation, and in the meanwhile my hands are tied.

Thanks for your thorough explanation, i really appreciate it.