Question Unstable ASRock B650 PG + GSkill Flare 6000 32 38 ?

[amdhelp]

Hello please help with with the XMP profile. The computer runs normaly on 6000 with XMP profile, but crashes in games. Not just one game but all games. First it will just close the game, on restart it will close it faster and sometimes the pc will turn off. I tried XMP settings with 5600 speed but there is no difference. Am i doing something wrong, or this speed of ram is not meant for gaming? I Have system logs from event viewer, but i dont know what it means. These are my timings and settings:
https://prnt.sc/EWOWkwXYvXou
https://prnt.sc/STLZuX449OeL
https://prnt.sc/PYvPih9lmjOm
https://prnt.sc/M4MR1mgfz9T6
https://prnt.sc/AcZkJ7xS3jwz
ASRock B650 Phantom-Gaming Lightning
90-MXBK20-A0UAYZ
2x 16GB G Skill Flare EXPO X5 DDR5 6000 DIMM CL32 38 38
F5-6000J3238F16GX2-FX5

 

[Darkbreeze]

What makes you think the memory has anything to do with your crashing? While it's possible, it's not likely, or not as likely as other issues anyhow.

 

[Darkbreeze]

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.

First,​

Make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.

Second,​

Go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.

In ANY case, when it comes to drivers, you do not EVER want to rely on the Microsoft supplied drivers unless there is NO OTHER CHOICE because you are running a newer OS version on much older hardware and no drivers are available from the manufacturer for the OS version you are running. Then, and ONLY then, do you want to rely on the Windows supplied drivers for anything related to your motherboard (Chipset, onboard network adapters, audio, etc.), graphics card, PCIe expansion cards or peripherals like mouse, keyboard, printer, etc.

IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.

Third,​

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.

Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),​

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU
​

And last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates, it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way​

 

[amdhelp]

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

This worked for some reason and it allowed me to play some games without crashes now.
I dont really understand it but im just happy im not crashing anymore.
Tomorow i will give xmp a try.
Thank you, send me USDT polygon(MATIC) address, beer on me

 

[amdhelp]

well my am4 pc i had 3200 ram on 2100 always because nothing was stable, i think it was the mobo fault, so i assumed its ram again.
But now i think i bought decent parts and it gave me a real headache when i couldnt evne run deafult ram settings at 4800 and i bought 32 6000

 

[Darkbreeze]

Your DIMMs are definitely compatible with your board. Not just because they are Flare X5 sticks, because even then not every kit is going to work with every AMD chipset, but because G.Skill SAYS they are tested and validated on that motherboard. So running them at the XMP configuration should not be a problem. It should work. I get that it is not, but there are certainly steps you can take to get around that. You've taken one of them, but you may have jumped the gun.

What is your currently installed motherboard BIOS version?

Exactly which DIMM slots do you have the memory installed in?

What is your exact power supply model and further, it would be helpful knowing the rest of your hardware specs as well.

 

[amdhelp]

Your DIMMs are definitely compatible with your board. Not just because they are Flare X5 sticks, because even then not every kit is going to work with every AMD chipset, but because G.Skill SAYS they are tested and validated on that motherboard. So running them at the XMP configuration should not be a problem. It should work. I get that it is not, but there are certainly steps you can take to get around that. You've taken one of them, but you may have jumped the gun.

What is your currently installed motherboard BIOS version?

Exactly which DIMM slots do you have the memory installed in?

What is your exact power supply model and further, it would be helpful knowing the rest of your hardware specs as well.

I went for a fresh windows install and just installed the game i wanted to play and i got GFX error crash.
At that point i folowed your guide on uninstaling internal amd GPU drivers and later nvidia and installed fresh nvidia.
After setting the game to work with win 8 compatibility, it worked.
Now me being me, i had to test 6000 mhz ram and it sent the game crashing again.
After i went back to 4800 and tested another game and that game crashed imidiately, so i have no clue what is happening anymore or what could be wrong.
Should i uninstal audio drivers also as i did with internal amd gpu?
The only thing that i dont find the drivers for is my headset which works as 7.1 good and my condenser microphone, there are no drivers for these two inputs, they dont exist.

Honestly i dont care if the ram will run at 6000mhz anymore, i just want it to stop crashing, what else can i do ?
What helped me get 1st game running originaly after setting win 8 compatibiltiy is going into services and enabling "VGC" and setting it to automatic and later deleting temp files, which semi reseted my ingame GPU settings < the combination of these things worked, im not sure if it was just the uninstaling of drivers or all of these steps together.

Bios is 1.18. DIMMS are installed good(1 is at the edge of motherboard, then 1 space and 2nd one.)
Maybe i should test with 1 stick ? the plastic of ram was cracked on delivery but the sticks didnt look damaged or touched.


The game im trying to play i have constant 600 FPS, up to 700/800, so 4800 or 6000 ram is irrelevant for me, i think, but everything else crashing is annoying and makes me wonder where is the problem ?

directx diagnostic tool:
https://ibb.co/nB5y6X8

4 hosted at ImgBB

Image 4 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

https://ibb.co/jZdphBj

2 hosted at ImgBB

Image 2 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

https://ibb.co/k5tkk2P

Rest of the specs:
Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 19044)
650W GOLD 80+ be quiet https://www.mindfactory.de/product_...Pure-Power-12-M-Modular-80--Gold_1480492.html
GPU: ZOTAC 1660 TI 6GB
Cooler: BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 150W
AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 6x 4.70GHz So.AM5 WOF
4TB Seagate IronWolf ST4000VN006 3.5"
ASRock B650 Phantom Gaming Lightning So.AM5 retail
1TB Samsung SSD 980 M.2 PCIe 3.0 x4 3D-NAND TLC

 

[Darkbreeze]

I think you should test the memory.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

 

[amdhelp]

At deafult settings 4800 ( 40-40-40 i think) it gave an error. What should i do? bump up the voltage/change timings or test the sticks 1 by 1 again ?
https://prnt.sc/_C0KlLDxy2-b

Screenshot

Captured with Lightshot

prnt.sc

https://prnt.sc/hJiJyCzp3Kq9

I think you should test the memory.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

 

[amdhelp]

I have been getting blue screens since i have updated windows to the latest version, it was updated before, but some security settings were missing.
https://prnt.sc/oRtlaFUFgEq3
Could i possibly identify my issue via blue screen logs?
I have manualy checked all of the drivers, some of them are deafult, the only thing that i can think of is instaling realtek audio drivers instead of deafult ones?
I have disabled the internal gpu amd driver and only left nvidia. Providing as much info as i can, thank you for assist! <3

memtest report: https://sharetext.me/fpvrcmerd3
This is how i received the ram:
https://prnt.sc/bL6s273QZNzB

 

[Darkbreeze]

You got the memory in a package that was already open?

 

[amdhelp]

You got the memory in a package that was already open?

The site i bought from is the best, the plastic got cracked in transport, this is how i received it. Dont think you can tell if it was opened or not, becuase you can easily close it back and you couldnt tell. How can i tell the ram is faulty for sure?
I instaled amd drivers all including reinstaling internal gpu, i havent had a blue screen yet, but now pc just restarts itself or game crashes.
I also used driver easy profesional and instaled 7 missing drivers, so on drivers side i have everything now(i was doing 1 by 1 thing to identify whats wrong, but i have no idea why is my pc crashing).

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, in light of getting errors, I think you need to test the modules individually. Running Memtest eliminates EVERYTHING else that isn't hardware. Windows and it's configurations will have nothing to do with it so if you get errors in Memtest86 it can only be hardware related and usually it will be the memory itself, the motherboard, the CPU, the power supply or some problem with how one of those things was installed including potentially even the CPU cooler if it has been installed so that it's not evenly tight all the way around. That can cock the CPU in the socket and make it act like it has one or more bent pins. And in fact, one or more bent pins on the CPU or motherboard (Depending on the platform) can cause memory issues while everything else might still seem ok as well.

Anyhow, using the A2 slot, I would recommend testing the memory at it's default baseline configuration with no XMP enabled. If it gets ANY errors, stop the test, shut down, switch memory modules and test the other one.

Also, if you've used ANY "automatic driver utility" like "driver easy professional" you've probably also screwed up your Windows installation. Those utilities are nothing more than pure trash and they cause far more problems than they solve, and they are never helpful in any way. When you need to update drivers you GO to the motherboard product support page, you look at the drivers that are available and you download the latest chipset, audio controller and network adapter drivers and you install THOSE manually. Then you go to the driver download page for your graphics card and you do the same thing. You GO get the driver and you download it and you install it.

If you have ANY other PCIe expansion cards, you do the same. If you need specific drivers for printer, keyboard, mouse, etc. then you go to the product page on the manufacturers website and you GET them, then you install them. You do NOT, EVER, use any kind of utility or automatic "updater" unless you want your life to get even more complicated in a hurry and that includes the motherboard manufacturer utilities like ASUS Armory Crate, ASRock Live update and app shop, Gigabyte control center, etc. They all are buggy garbage that uses a crap load of system resources for no reason, and they are none of them ever accurate anyhow. I've seen literally dozens and dozens of people come here and say the drivers or BIOS are all up to date because they've checked with one of those utilities and yet when they go and manually look at what's actually available, they are often one or two driver versions out of date. You do it yourself, or you live with problems. It's that simple.

 

[amdhelp]

So, in light of getting errors, I think you need to test the modules individually. Running Memtest eliminates EVERYTHING else that isn't hardware. Windows and it's configurations will have nothing to do with it so if you get errors in Memtest86 it can only be hardware related and usually it will be the memory itself, the motherboard, the CPU, the power supply or some problem with how one of those things was installed including potentially even the CPU cooler if it has been installed so that it's not evenly tight all the way around. That can cock the CPU in the socket and make it act like it has one or more bent pins. And in fact, one or more bent pins on the CPU or motherboard (Depending on the platform) can cause memory issues while everything else might still seem ok as well.

Anyhow, using the A2 slot, I would recommend testing the memory at it's default baseline configuration with no XMP enabled. If it gets ANY errors, stop the test, shut down, switch memory modules and test the other one.

Also, if you've used ANY "automatic driver utility" like "driver easy professional" you've probably also screwed up your Windows installation. Those utilities are nothing more than pure trash and they cause far more problems than they solve, and they are never helpful in any way. When you need to update drivers you GO to the motherboard product support page, you look at the drivers that are available and you download the latest chipset, audio controller and network adapter drivers and you install THOSE manually. Then you go to the driver download page for your graphics card and you do the same thing. You GO get the driver and you download it and you install it.

If you have ANY other PCIe expansion cards, you do the same. If you need specific drivers for printer, keyboard, mouse, etc. then you go to the product page on the manufacturers website and you GET them, then you install them. You do NOT, EVER, use any kind of utility or automatic "updater" unless you want your life to get even more complicated in a hurry and that includes the motherboard manufacturer utilities like ASUS Armory Crate, ASRock Live update and app shop, Gigabyte control center, etc. They all are buggy garbage that uses a crap load of system resources for no reason, and they are none of them ever accurate anyhow. I've seen literally dozens and dozens of people come here and say the drivers or BIOS are all up to date because they've checked with one of those utilities and yet when they go and manually look at what's actually available, they are often one or two driver versions out of date. You do it yourself, or you live with problems. It's that simple.

Thank you for your reply again. Yesterday i replugged all the cables, opened the case to lower temps and unplugged one stick. Nothing worked. Later it came to my mind that maybe the cpu is the problem, because the gpu is working just fine on older pc. So i start googling for 7600X crashes and i come across this:
https://prnt.sc/aqJFd0HfNbxP
i input these numbers and now i have played for 2 hours without a single crash.
The cpu is the problem, maybe my cooler doesnt allow it to go to 100 degrees or whatever its supposed to run at for that big clocks. So far so good, right now i will enable xmp and see how that goes.

these guys tried everything, defferent mobos, different rams, its the ryzen thats crashing. thank god i found this and avoid more headache, for now, lets hope it stays stable.

 

[Darkbreeze]

If you have to downclock your CPU for it to work properly, then something is wrong. And, I'm not saying that IS the case, but IF it is I'd suspect it's something they'll fix through BIOS updates at some point.

Regardless, you should really not need to do that and I'd undo all of that, then simply turn off Precision boost overdrive in the BIOS, and THEN test the memory one stick at a time. That should eliminate the AMD overclock entirely from the equation so that the CPU is only operating at the stock configuration and any errors then should be strictly memory related. But, if you're happy with a gimped CPU, then I guess that's totally up to you.

There are PLENTY of people running similar configurations as yours, that aren't having to do that, so I'm very doubtful that this is as clear cut as they or you are trying to make it seem. It's also possible that you simply have a bad CPU. It's rare, but it does happen, and it seems to be a lot more common on the last couple of generations of AMD CPU than it has ever been on any previous generations regardless of whether it was AMD or Intel.

But it could definitely also be BIOS related or even a problem with the motherboard. Being only a Ryzen 5 and not a particularly high TDP model, I'm very doubtful that it's simply due to too much "overclock". If you didn't update to the latest BIOS version yet, THAT is where you should start. Upgrading the cooling wouldn't be the worst idea in the world either because that relatively small 120mm cooler is probably only barely capable enough with PBO enabled, maybe even not capable enough. No idea since I don't know what your temps are doing under a full load but regardless, that shouldn't have any effect on your memory errors. Temperature should never really cause errors anyhow. Throttling, sure. Performance issues, yes. Errors, not really.

 

[amdhelp]

If you have to downclock your CPU for it to work properly, then something is wrong. And, I'm not saying that IS the case, but IF it is I'd suspect it's something they'll fix through BIOS updates at some point.

Regardless, you should really not need to do that and I'd undo all of that, then simply turn off Precision boost overdrive in the BIOS, and THEN test the memory one stick at a time. That should eliminate the AMD overclock entirely from the equation so that the CPU is only operating at the stock configuration and any errors then should be strictly memory related. But, if you're happy with a gimped CPU, then I guess that's totally up to you.

There are PLENTY of people running similar configurations as yours, that aren't having to do that, so I'm very doubtful that this is as clear cut as they or you are trying to make it seem. It's also possible that you simply have a bad CPU. It's rare, but it does happen, and it seems to be a lot more common on the last couple of generations of AMD CPU than it has ever been on any previous generations regardless of whether it was AMD or Intel.

But it could definitely also be BIOS related or even a problem with the motherboard. Being only a Ryzen 5 and not a particularly high TDP model, I'm very doubtful that it's simply due to too much "overclock". If you didn't update to the latest BIOS version yet, THAT is where you should start. Upgrading the cooling wouldn't be the worst idea in the world either because that relatively small 120mm cooler is probably only barely capable enough with PBO enabled, maybe even not capable enough. No idea since I don't know what your temps are doing under a full load but regardless, that shouldn't have any effect on your memory errors. Temperature should never really cause errors anyhow. Throttling, sure. Performance issues, yes. Errors, not really.

I have been able to get it stable at -100. 50 and 0 were crashing.
Correct me if im wrong, but by deafult it was set to over 5.3 and thats why it was crashing ?
I am at -100 now and it says im still at 5340?
https://prnt.sc/WRjZdQ8C5jKW

 

[Darkbreeze]

I mean, if it's working, it's working. The bottom line though is that you shouldn't have to tamper with the stock behavior of ANY CPU to get it stable. Now, that being said, "PBO" is NOT stock behavior. So disabling or reducing the Precision boost overdrive configuration really isn't tampering with the the stock behavior which is why I recommended simply disabling PBO. You could still manually configure an overclock which is slightly less than the PBO boost but in truth for every Ryzen platform so far it has been extremely difficult for even advanced overclockers to configure a manual overclock that works better than the PBO profile does. But then again, this is a new platform with new teething pains, so if what you have works, I'd say call it a day and wait to see if perhaps future BIOS releases don't offer improved stability or changed configuration with the PBO settings.