[SOLVED] Upgraded computer but now choppy when playing games

Jan 13, 2019
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About a week ago I upgraded the processor, ram, mobo of my computer but now whenever I play games it is choppy. For example, when I'm playing league of legends I have ~150 fps but my display is choppy. I've tested out some games like l4d2, league, empire total war, GTA 5, GTA 4. etc.

My specs are:
I5 9600K (With or without being overclocked is choppy)
Asus GTX 1060 6gb
Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X
16gb ddr4 @ 3200mhz (mobo, processor only support 2666mhz)
1TB hdd 7200rpm

Specs before upgrading:
i7 4790K
Same GPU
msi z97s sli krait edition
ddr3 16GB 1866mhz
1TB hdd 7200rpm
 
Solution


I'll stay with you until this is solved if possible, but I need you to be CLEAR about what "choppy" means.

If it's just the CPU, mobo and DDR4 memory that's been replaced, AND Windows reinstalled I'm left scratching my head. It feels like insufficient system memory to me but you should have at least 8GB (if one stick dead) so that's not making sense. CPU is probably fine considering you had 150FPS.

For now, try this and post back the results:
1. run MEMTEST86 for a full pass www.memtest86.com (boot to BIOS if needed to select the USB stick)

2. confirm how much system memory you have AND is available. I'm showing in Task Manager->Performance->Memory (on left side):
5.8/15.9GB (36%)...


I didn't know I was had to reinstall windows I'll do that and hopefully it will work.
 


Do I need to completely wipe my hard drive and reinstall or just use the reset in recovery?
 


You need to do a wipe and reinstall. Anything short of that may have performance issues.
 


Ok I'll try that then
 
Installing W10 isn't always necessary but in this case I'd start there. In fact...

1) create a USB stick (or CD/DVD if an option) for MEMTEST86 to ensure your DDR4 memory is fine. Boot to that stick (go into BIOS if necessary to select via quick boot) then wait for a FULL PASS to finish or until errors.

2) *make sure you:
a) have your login info ready (i.e. MSN account and password) as you'll want to enter that EXACT one again because your Windows 10 license is tied to that account likely (not the hardware like it used to be).

b) unhook non-OS drives for now.
c) after Install starts DELETE all the partitions you see on your OS drive (should end up showing a single line of UNALLOCATED space and then you just have it selected and click next)

d) finish install, then drivers, programs etc.
e) Note that STEAM can easily find its games if they are on a different drive. Just go into SETTINGS and add the same FOLDER that the Steamapps folder on the other drive sits inside (mine is E:\Steam).

f) ORIGIN works if you reinstall it then click on a game, SETTINGS then there's a line that asks you to point to the game folder. Do that and it should analyze it and add the game back.

UPLAY and BLIZZARD work roughly the same.

3) Make a backup IMAGE of your Windows partition once done. I suggest an automated backup solution like Acronis True Image. (I choose: weekly, incremental, 1+4 chain, auto-delete all but latest chain, 2nd highest compression..)

Other:
I noticed the suggestion to use VSYNC... obviously you aren't if you get 150FPS... it would still be interesting to know what MONITOR you have. Because:

If it's a 144Hz monitor then for some games I'd recommend:
a) VSYNC OFF - screen tear may not be obvious if the FPS/Hz ratio is low (i.e. 60FPS/144Hz)
b) Adaptive VSYNC - turns VSYNC OFF below 144FPS to avoid added STUTTERING
c) Adaptive VSYNC Half Refresh - same as above but for 72FPS... may be an optimal option for a game like GTA5 if screen tear sucks even with above VSYNC OFF option.

It's personal preference really, but with a 60Hz monitor screen tear can be horrible at times. You get MORE tears as the FPS increases with VSYNC OFF though ironically it can be LESS obvious as it gets higher too as too MANY tears causes more but smaller changes (like a telephone pole split into TEN pieces but each piece is offset by a smaller amount than THREE pieces would be.... yah, it's a bit complicated).

OTHER:
You can of course use a SPARE drive to put a W10 install too to test (don't bother with your user login data then) but it's virtually certain that a reinstall of W10 will fix your issues.

*Using DDU and doing a clean install of your video drivers might also work fine. If so, then I'd check DEVICE MANAGER to see if there's any issues. Unlike the past it is possible to migrate W10 to a new system without having issues with driver conflicts or old drivers messing things up. In some cases simply reinstalling a driver or two gets you fully functional.
https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

I'd personally reinstall but if that works fine and no issues are obvious maybe stick with it and consider doing a clean install after you can carefully plan it out. Or never.
 


I'll stay with you until this is solved if possible, but I need you to be CLEAR about what "choppy" means.

If it's just the CPU, mobo and DDR4 memory that's been replaced, AND Windows reinstalled I'm left scratching my head. It feels like insufficient system memory to me but you should have at least 8GB (if one stick dead) so that's not making sense. CPU is probably fine considering you had 150FPS.

For now, try this and post back the results:
1. run MEMTEST86 for a full pass www.memtest86.com (boot to BIOS if needed to select the USB stick)

2. confirm how much system memory you have AND is available. I'm showing in Task Manager->Performance->Memory (on left side):
5.8/15.9GB (36%)

3. confirm CPU has all cores/threads.. in Task Manager you should see SIX graphs. Change CPU graph to "logical processors" to show one graph per thread.

Run the Intel CPU diagnostic and observe the CPU SPEED. Should be 4.xGHz under load for all cores. Unless it's WAY low you shouldn't be having issues. I doubt this is the problem.
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/19792/Intel-Processor-Diagnostic-Tool

4. Confirm the NVIDIA drivers got installed. I have little doubt you did.

5. Give me the SCORE for any of the benchmarks below in separate POST to keep tidy. My scores are for an i7-3770K@4.4GHz + GTX1080 so your CPU scores should be better, but GPU and overall should be less... you should be roughly 2X the GPU score of a GTX680 and roughly 60% of a GTX1080.

6. For any game you are well over the refresh rate for FPS (i.e. 100FPS+ for 60Hz monitor)
VSYNC ON: is it "choppy" if the game is now capped to 60FPS?

If you have a 144Hz monitor (not GSYNC or one of the supported Freesync) try both:
a) VSYNC OFF, and
b) Adaptive VSync Half Refresh (to synch to 72FPS... NCP-> manage 3d settings-> add game (setting)-> save)

7) Check DEVICE MANAGER for any conflicts (obvious). Right-click Start...

8) check mobo site for BIOS updates (not sure why that could help)

*Stuttering or "choppy" seems strange when the FPS is high. In that context the new FRAME is obviously being created quick enough so this is very confusing. VSYNC can cause choppiness due to missed frames (i.e. dropping below 60FPS on 60Hz monitor) and there are other reasons but with the same GPU, monitor etc I would not expect this.
 
Solution
Do some of these at least. If you only have a 1920x1080 monitor you can enable DSR in NCP->Global and add a "1.78x" option so 2560x1440 should appear in games and software. I expect you to be in the ballpark of as I said between 0.6x (GTX1080 results) and 2x (GTX680 results).

1. Unigine Valley
-DX11, Ultra, x8AA, full screen, 2560x1440

GTX680
- 27.5FPS avg
- 1152
- 16.3FPS low
- 51.9FPS high

GTX1080
- 68.4FPS avg
- 2863
- 32.7fps low
- 140.3fps high

2. Unigine Heaven
- DX11, Ultra, Extreme tessellation, x8, FS, 2560x1440

GTX680
- 22.9FPS
- 577
- 14.6FPS low
- 52.7FPS high

3. Fire Strike Ultra (v1.1)

GTX680
760 (?)
graphics 634
physics 11,610
combined 846

4. 3DMARK Time Spy

GTX680
2276
graphics 2093
CPU 4525

GTX1080
6813
graphics 7451
CPU 4590
 
BIOS: latest is F7c
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z390-GAMING-X-rev-10#support-dl-bios

CPU microcode (F6) is probably a security fix. Improved DDR (F5) is simply profiles for newer DDR4 sticks likely. Not seeing anything here that should affect performance but if you have F5 or lower I'd still upgrade.

*also, you can technically run above 2666MHz via an OC and you may want to look into that later but I'd avoid that for now until the problem is figured out. And if you do always run MEMTEST86 after for a full pass. For now just use the recommended XMP.