[SOLVED] Upgraded CPU and PC now takes over an hour to get to login screen

[recenityz]

I keep seeing threads around with people asking for help on their "insanely long" boot times of 3 minutes. I think 1 hour and 16 minutes is a little worse.

I recently switched out my Ryzen 3 2200G of 4 cores and 4 threads, with a Ryzen 5 3600 of 6 cores and 12 threads. The first issue I discovered was the CPU light on my MSI Tomahawk B350 was solid and my monitors got no signal, so I did some digging and found out I needed to update my BIOS to support Ryzen 3000 range. Switched back out, updated, confirmed, and then switched back. But what I found instead was my PC getting to the BIOS splash screen, the loading circle stuttering and the loading appearing to never end. Retried a few times and every second time it said it was preparing automatic repair. I tried several things on the troubleshooting menu that that provided, and found out that my PC would boot normally and quickly in Safe Mode with Command Prompt. I tried some command that was supposed to find corrupt system files, but it did not. I dug around in the srttrail.txt logs and found something that said:

"Root cause found:

A recent driver installation or upgrade may be preventing the system from starting.

Repair action: System files integrity check and repair
Result: Failed. Error code = 0x57
Time taken = 1969 ms"

Upon suggestion, i tried to reinstall windows (keeping personal files) but to no avail; the problem still persisted and now I'm 700-800gb down on a 350kbps internet connection in a 3 person household. If you haven't guessed already, that's only hundreds upon hundreds of hours.

Later tried booting normally and timed it to get the 1 hour and 16 minute result. Have redownloaded a few things since, and checked DriverEasy to see if anything out-of-date could be causing it. 7 outdated drivers, all things like Realtek Audio and AMD PSP - in other words, I'm not particularly sure that that could be the issue, but I'm trying it right now anyway. Other than that, I'm really not sure what to do or what to try. I'm lost.

My Specs:
• MSI GeForce GTX 1050 TI Gaming X 4GB Graphics Card
• 4x4GB Apacer Commando 2133MGz DDR4 Gaming RAM
• AMD Ryzen 5 3600 CPU
• MSI B350 Tomahawk Motherboard
• Samsung 860 QVO 1TB SSD (boot drive with active partition)
• Western Digital 1TB HDD
• 400W Be Quiet! Pure 10 Power Supply

Any help would be appreciated, I've been going through this all for several days now and I've exhausted most of my ideas. I just want my PC back to normal and I don't know how to achieve that. If any more information is needed, I'll be more than happy to provide.

 

[Colif]

I would copy any files you want to keep onto the hdd, remove data cable of hdd, and reinstall win 10 without keeping any files using a USB installer.

Then you won't have any outdated drivers. 1 hour is too long for an ssd.

3rd party driver updaters aren't 100% accurate
Have you got latest chipset drivers as they would likely help since they are from June this year - https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B350-TOMAHAWK#down-driver&Win10 64

 

[recenityz]

I would copy any files you want to keep onto the hdd, remove data cable of hdd, and reinstall win 10 without keeping any files using a USB installer.

Then you won't have any outdated drivers. 1 hour is too long for an ssd.

3rd party driver updaters aren't 100% accurate
Have you got latest chipset drivers as they would likely help since they are from June this year - https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B350-TOMAHAWK#down-driver&Win10 64

Sorry, not familiar with what a USB install is. Can you explain? I'll take a look at getting the chipset drivers, I highly doubt I have them at this present moment - or most 2020 drivers, for that matter, they just don't seem to show up if they exist. Any advice on how to keep up to date with all drivers I need, if 3rd party isn't accurate?

Also, need I get all the other listed drivers on there in case?

 

[recenityz]

Installed the 7 drivers, chipset and windows updates, next boot 1:16:16

 

[Colif]

Question: If you put old CPU in, is boot still slow? Curious if its a bent pin on CPU or something. As if only change you made was update bios and change CPU, Windows should still be the same.

Drivers
Can you download and run Driverview - http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/driverview.html
All it does is looks at drivers installed; it won't install any
When you run it, go into view tab and set it to hide all Microsoft drivers, will make list shorter.

Now its up to you, you can look through the drivers and try to find old drivers, or you can take a screenshot from (and including)Driver name to (and including)Creation date.

upload it to an image sharing website and show link here
All I would do is look at driver versions (or dates if you lucky to have any) to see what might have newer versions.

Installer
The USB installer is how you do a clean install. If you don't have an installer you can use the media creation tool to create one... although at your dl speed, it would take a while. If you know anyone with faster internet, it would be advisable to get them to download it, the installer can be used many times - On another PC, download the Windows 10 media creation tool and use it to make a win 10 installer on USB

If you had one of those, I would have suggested trying to boot from it and see if boot time is still just as slow.

 

[recenityz]

Follow-up Question: Would that not influence the overall performance of the CPU or something of the like? The CPU works exactly as I imagined it would outside of just turning it on (way better, no longer bottlenecking). Is it theoretically possible for a bent CPU pin to affect boot that badly but leave no perceivable difference in normal use, and still boot perfectly in safe mode? and I'm reluctant to do another switch-out because I have already used several rounds of thermal paste in this process, however if nothing else from your most recent message works, I'll do it regardless.

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Image of my current drivers: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYKtjgTv4dTBYVEeA

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I have a stick in the same bag as my mobo accessories and the like, that appears to be USB and has a silver sticky note on it that says:
"WIN 10 Eng Intl Home/Pro
X21-18610 13448348"

If I'm not mistaken, this is it?

 

[Colif]

All your drivers are from 2020 or close (oldest are the router drivers (can't say I seen router drivers before)) What is the wacom device?

have you tried starting pc without any extra USB (besides mouse/kb) as slow start could mean its a hardware problem

that does appear to be an installer.

See if PC is slow booting off it, although you might want to wait till next time you have to start PC since it takes an hour off ssd currently
Put USB in PC before startup
start PC and go into bios
go to save & exit screen
choose Boot Override (this lets PC boot off a device one time without changing boot order for next start)
pick USB from list and PC will restart and boot from the USB
boot from installer
on screen after languages, choose repair this pc, not install.
choose troubleshoot
choose advanced
choose start up repair - this will scan PC and maybe fix this - will ask for logon info

AS it does seem to be an installer, you might want to do a clean install and see if its just glitch of swapping CPU/BIOS.
follow this guide: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq/how-to-do-a-clean-installation-of-windows-10.3170366/

sorry, been distracted all day, planning new PC myself

 

[recenityz]

Those drivers? Wacom Intuos Bluetooth Small - a digital drawing tablet, not a router at all.

Most of my boots in general only have mouse/keyboard without other USB input, so I have indeed tried that.

Followed the instructions and went to startup repair, it claimed to be diagnosing my PC and now currently in a boot that seems like it will take the same amount of time as usual; not sure if this means it hasn't worked or if it needs to boot properly before anything can be done. Will go to sleep. If it turns out this hasn't worked either, my next step is clean reinstall?

 

[Colif]

wacom HID router might be just really badly named tablet drivers. HID = Human interface devices, so yes, a tablet would fit in there.

Startup repair was just a chance. I was going to get you to boot into safe mode from USB and then I remembered you can't. It makes booting off USB to test this pointless. You can only get to safe mode if you can get to logon screen and as it takes forever to achieve that now, it is probably just being cruel to get you to go to safe mode.

If your internet wasn't so slow I would suggest making an Ubuntu live usb and see if it has any problems running on system, would at least tell you if this is just windows or not.

srttrail.txt logs

did you get an error talking about this file?
Normally srttrail error leave user not being able to boot at all.
Normally clean install is best fix for it. It relates to the boot files,
this might help fix it but I have found its usually faster to clean install - https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-rebuild-the-bcd-in-windows-2624508

 

[recenityz]

Confused - I can boot into safe mode from my SSD with ease (boot time normal) already, which is how I first got into srttrail.txt before I realised my PC would eventually boot normally, so that is not an issue either way. What would I have done it for?

How large is this Ubuntu you speak of? I've put myself through 70 hour game downloads before (ones that chose to delete their progress before I even finish), so I'm not unfamiliar with download torture, and I don't have much of a choice if I want to troubleshoot the problem; in order to take my PC elsewhere to download things (Ubuntu or the ~700-800gb lost) at a reasonable speed, I need this issue to be resolved first anyway. So I'm not exactly rife with options right now, I'm open to it.

All I got was the error 0x57 in srttrail.txt as detailed in my initial post; the rest were 0x0, if I remember correctly? The fact that it said something about driver installation made me wonder if perhaps my new CPU driver being corrupt could be the issue, but of course I'm no seasoned boot or driver expert, just a random whim.
"Rebuilding the bcd" In the event that this works, would clean reinstalling windows definitely work as a substitute, or are they two incongruent problems and solutions? Trying to work out if I would benefit from attempting both individually.

 

[Colif]

0x57

looking for that code leads to bootres errors. That is one of the boot files and is likely reason PC takes 1 hour to boot off SSD and virtually right away off USB. It is amazing it even starts.

Clean install will fix it. It is why I was suggesting you copy anything you can off the 1tb ssd onto the hdd and use that win 10 installer to clean install onto the ssd.

use boot override again to get onto USB and not change normal boot order since you want to keep that, we are just fixing files on the ssd

Put USB in PC before startup
start PC and go into bios
go to save & exit screen
choose Boot Override (this lets PC boot off a device one time without changing boot order for next start)
pick USB from list and PC will restart and boot from the USB
boot from installer

follow this guide: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq/how-to-do-a-clean-installation-of-windows-10.3170366/

 

[recenityz]

Okay, well, I shall do this soon and get back to you. If this does work... Why was this problem caused in the first place? Is there any way it could have been prevented at all? Or is it seriously just some random thing that may happen that I need to be prepared for? I'm lost for words and ready to never upgrade a CPU again, if this is the trouble I risk going through.

 

[Colif]

its possibly caused by a setting that is on by default in win 10. Fast startup.
Now if you don't know what it is, it means it was likely on as it is by default.

You could try turning it off now and see if it speeds up boot times tomorrow but I feel that would be too easy - https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/4189-turn-off-fast-startup-windows-10-a.html

When PC has fast startup on, its never off. When you turn PC off at night, instead of shutting down power, windows 10 saves a copy of running drivers + the kernel into ram and to a file on PC, and puts pc into a hybred hibernate mode. So when you start its already half loaded and only needs to load a few things off storage.

Problem with fast startup is that if you unplug PC afterwards to, Oh, I don't know, replace the CPU, you can corrupt files since PC isn't technically off. I have seen similar in the past, people just turn pc off to clean it and next thing you know it doesn't boot.

It can also mess with old drivers that aren't written for win 10, but your PC was already on WIn 10 so it shouldn't be cause.

 

[recenityz]

If I could, I would give that response best answer too - both have been/will be insanely useful. Thank you for sticking around and helping me fix this, I'm pretty sure the windows reinstall has solved the issue and I followed your advice of disabling fast startup to avoid it in future. Will be sure to forward that information to anyone I know personally who could potentially need it. You're a legend.
Now to try and organise a few stays at a friend's house to get this stuff re-downloaded...

 

[Colif]

Now to try and organise a few stays at a friend's house to get this stuff re-downloaded...

lol. Thats one way... why is my internet going slow? Oh nothing...

If you have an ssd as boot drive, you won't miss fast startup as its mostly there to help speed up boot times on hdd. SSD fast enough to not need it.

 

[recenityz]

My general area was supposed to be getting Fibre by July, however I think Covid-19 delayed it. I'm stuck in a rural area in which the cellphone reception and service is completely terrible, so I have little to no options in terms of upgrades until something is done about that in my area. Until then, the one true bottleneck of my setup will always be my connection

I'm glad it will not affect, as I no longer wish to even consider the existence of that setting (which I don't think is unreasonable after this).

 

[Colif]

this used to be my connection speed so I get where you coming from

Sometimes I feel windows should just sell USB with the installer on them, no licences, just so people can update whose internet isn't incredible.