[SOLVED] Upgrading my system to DDR5 with i7-12700KF and want to make sure I got everything right.

[Worius]

Basically as title, I'll be upgrading.
The system will be used for: Gaming, Streaming, VR - all in combination and video editing.
Main goal is to reach 144hz in FPS games which should be okay and VR to not lag. (I don't play on high graphics.)
I am here to ask two simple questions as I'm not very big computer person.
Are the parts I've choosen going to run smooth/no problems with each other.
Am I getting the right price-performance prices?
I am in Bulgaria, thus I don't have much of a choice for some parts.


The big parts:

Intel® Core™ i7-12700KF Processor
(might bother with overclocking but probably not.)

GeForce® GTX 1070 Mini
The only part that will remain from my current build.
Will be upgraded in a couple of years.
Hope it doesn't cause big problems like over the top bottlenecking.


Everything else:

Motherboard:
ASUS PRIME Z690-A
I've judged this one to be best choice for it's price but I am not sure.
I also see the "Z690-P wifi" option which is more expensive but is it better?
Other ones are: gigabyte z690 UD, MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI and some ASRocks.

RAM sticks:
2x16GB DDR5 5200 Kingston Fury Beast
I just googled a bit and this one is most recommended for it's price tag.
Although, there is the 5600mhz one that is 30bucks cheaper?
Is it worth to take it or stick with the 5200mhz?
Also, I see that the CPU supports up-to 4800 speed, am I gonna run into a problem?

CPU cooling:
be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
with it's lga 1700 mount kit.
I've seen that it's good enough for the cpu.

Storage:
Sata 7.2k RPM, will be upgraded
Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 500GB

PSU:
600W be quiet! PURE POWER 11 gold
Now, here is my major confusion.
I've done multiple calculators, one says around 520w, other 550w-650w and be quits calculator says 550w
I feel like 600W shouldn't cause issues?
Also the mobo pin are listed as: "2 x 8-pin 12V Power connectors" and the PSU is: "1 x CPU 4+4 Pin", it should connect right?

Case:
Be Quiet Pure Base 500DX Black
Because it's in price range and offers cooling.

 

[Why_Me]

It all works. No sense paying more for a WiFi board if you don't need it.
5600 > 5200

 

[Worius]

It all works. No sense paying more for a WiFi board if you don't need it.
5600 > 5200

Appreciate the fast response, but could I ask why the 5600 is cheaper? or is it just some weird bulgarian shopping shenanigans?

 

[Rdslw]

Appreciate the fast response, but could I ask why the 5600 is cheaper? or is it just some weird bulgarian shopping shenanigans?

a lot of times its just part of market fluctuations. The company managed to buy it on dip in exchange rates or bought in bulk, and it ended up lower price.

Check timings, size and speed, if none of them is very outstanding, just take any that meet your criteria. I haven't seen ram issues for last 8 years or so, I doubt you will have issues with any ram you can pick up on legit shop.
timings are like:
CL32-38-38-89 for 5600 (lower is better) so if that 5600 is not like 50-50-50-128, just take that.


Remember to take thermal paste, it's a pain to notice late and waste time on getting one.

 

[Why_Me]

Appreciate the fast response, but could I ask why the 5600 is cheaper? or is it just some weird bulgarian shopping shenanigans?

It's the same here in the US. Most days the 5200 will be cheaper but sometimes the 5600 is cheaper.

 

[Why_Me]

Save some money and pair this board up with an i7-12700F.

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...2700f-processor-25m-cache-up-to-4-90-ghz.html

https://www.jarcomputers.com/Dynna-platka-MSI-MAG-B660M-MORTAR_prod_MBIMSI9117D42015.html
MSI MAG B660M MORTAR DDR5 478.33 BGN

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B660M-MORTAR

i7 12700 / 12700F gaming benchmarks.

 

[geofelt]

Your plan will work.
But, I have some thoughts...

Do you have a budget, or is your budget restrictive?

In the cpu, I think a I7-12700KF is a fine choice.
But, for about $25 more, I would buy the non F I5-12700K which has integrated graphics.
If your discrete graphics card should ever have issues, integrated graphics is a good insurance policy.

It seems that DDR4 based systems perform about the same as DDR5.
And, DDR4 and DDR4 ram will be cheaper.

Ram speed does not tell the whole story.
DDR5 ram looks impressively fast, but will come with higher latency.
The motherboard ram support speed is the speed at which the motherboard can start. Generally, ignore this.
All ram will boot at a low speed.
That lets you get into the bios where you can select a higher speed. Usually, via XMP.

Many lga1700 motherboards will include wifi.
I would opt for that if you have wifi in the house and can use it.
You may have to download lan drivers from the internet go get the lan running.

If price is an issue, look at the smaller MATX motherboards, usually with a B660 chipset. Most will opt to use the default turbo mechanism for gaming performance, and bypass the all core overclocks which Z690 can provide.
I like the samsung EVO plus. But, see if you can't buy a 1tb size.

If you own the sata HDD and plan to reuse it, fine.
I would repurpose it for external backup.
For active use, a ssd, even a sata ssd is what you want to use.

To answer your psu question, connecting the second 8 pin eps power plug is usually optional.
It is used for added power for overclocking and for adding in extra peripherals such as multiple graphics cards. If needed, do not plan on using adapters.

On the psu, I would go stronger.
600w may well be ok initially, but if you ever want a strong 3000 series graphics card, you want to be prepared.
Here is guidance on what wattage you might need for different graphics cards:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
A psu will only consume the power demanded of it, regardless of the max capacity.
Look for a 750w-850w unit.
And, as an indicator of psu quality, look for a unit with at least a 7 to 10 year warranty.
Seasonic focus and Corsair rm are good places to start.

 

[Worius]

Your plan will work.
But, I have some thoughts...

Do you have a budget, or is your budget restrictive?

In the cpu, I think a I5-12700KF is a fine choice.
But, for about $25 more, I would buy the non F I5-12700K which has integrated graphics.
If your discrete graphics card should ever have issues, integrated graphics is a good insurance policy.

It seems that DDR4 based systems perform about the same as DDR5.
And, DDR4 and DDR4 ram will be cheaper.

Ram speed does not tell the whole story.
DDR5 ram looks impressively fast, but will come with higher latency.
The motherboard ram support speed is the speed at which the motherboard can start. Generally, ignore this.
All ram will boot at a low speed.
That lets you get into the bios where you can select a higher speed. Usually, via XMP.

Many lga1700 motherboards will include wifi.
I would opt for that if you have wifi in the house and can use it.
You may have to download lan drivers from the internet go get the lan running.

If price is an issue, look at the smaller MATX motherboards, usually with a B660 chipset. Most will opt to use the default turbo mechanism for gaming performance, and bypass the all core overclocks which Z690 can provide.
I like the samsung EVO plus. But, see if you can't buy a 1tb size.

If you own the sata HDD and plan to reuse it, fine.
I would repurpose it for external backup.
For active use, a ssd, even a sata ssd is what you want to use.

To answer your psu question, connecting the second 8 pin eps power plug is usually optional.
It is used for added power for overclocking and for adding in extra peripherals such as multiple graphics cards. If needed, do not plan on using adapters.

On the psu, I would go stronger.
600w may well be ok initially, but if you ever want a strong 3000 series graphics card, you want to be prepared.
Here is guidance on what wattage you might need for different graphics cards:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
A psu will only consume the power demanded of it, regardless of the max capacity.
Look for a 750w-850w unit.
And, as an indicator of psu quality, look for a unit with at least a 7 to 10 year warranty.
Seasonic focus and Corsair rm are good places to start.

-Do you have a budget, or is your budget restrictive?
Yes, it's basically the max I've reached with the parts above which mounts up to 1.2k euro

In the cpu, I think a I5-12700KF is a fine choice.
But, for about $25 more, I would buy the non F I5-12700K which has integrated graphics.
-If your discrete graphics card should ever have issues, integrated graphics is a good insurance policy.

I think you meant I7-12700KF and not an I5 .
I'm not against the integrated graphics unless it causes performence issues but I doubt it.
I'll look into it, thanks.


It seems that DDR4 based systems perform about the same as DDR5.
-And, DDR4 and DDR4 ram will be cheaper.

It might sound a bit "weird" but I do want a ddr5 system due to it being a bit newer and thus "lasting?" longer time as in software updates and such.
And my budget can afford it atm.


Many lga1700 motherboards will include wifi.
I would opt for that if you have wifi in the house and can use it.
-You may have to download lan drivers from the internet go get the lan running.

I don't see a way where I will need the wifi option.


-If price is an issue, look at the smaller MATX motherboards, usually with a B660 chipset. Most will opt to use the default turbo mechanism for gaming performance, and bypass the all core overclocks which Z690 can provide.

I'm not very "educated" on the difference between the MATX and ATX systems but I don't have such a big price issue, so this should be fine.


-For active use, a ssd, even a sata ssd is what you want to use.
Thank you, will look into them a bit further into the future.


-On the psu, I would go stronger.
Yeah, I think you are right about thinking a head a bit.
But I've read (multiple times) that having more than enough W is a problem?
If it's not a big deal, I would definitely look to higher W for future GPU upgrade.

So, I did indeed see that the "more w = problem" is a myth.
I found these two options:

be quiet! Straight Power 11 850W Gold - 5 year warranty
Corsair RM850x 850W 80 PLUS Gold - 10 year warranty

Corsair seems the better option but I am kinda worried about noise.
One guy says it's silent, another says it's a rocket machine...
But because of the Zero RPM fan, it's should be nice and silent?

 

[geofelt]

Let me try to address your issues, in order:

Yes, I5 was a typo, I corrected my post.

There are NO performance implications of having integrated graphics vs. just the F

Not "wierd" at all.
No negatives with DDR5 except perhaps cost.
As a practical matter, your next cpu upgrade will also likely be accompanied by a motherboard upgrade.
For that, having DDR5 ram is likely to be a plus.

On wifi, you can always add a wifi adapter if you ever need one.

The main difference is that ATX motherboards will have 7 expansion slots, while MATX will have 4.
How many (past one for the graphics card) might you ever use?
MATX can fit in a smaller case if that might be important to you.
Here is a link to the different lga1700 chipsets.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1700
Apart from cpu overclocking, I see few relevant differences.

SSD synthetic benchmarks look impressive.
But in normal use, it is hard to tell the difference.
Here is an amusing video:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DKLA7w9eeA


m.2 devices are nice in that they take up little space and do not need psu and data connectors. Today, sata connected SSD devices would work perfectly fine, but there is not a big advantage in cost.
A 1tb samsung evo plus and a 2.5" samsung 870 sata ssd are each about $100.
You can find cheaper units, but Puget systems has had good reliability with Samsung:

Most Reliable PC Hardware of 2021

Here at Puget Systems, our goal is not only to provide the fastest workstations possible, but the most reliable as well. As a part of our constant drive to offer only the highest quality components possible, we track and regularly review the failure rates for each part we carry. Today, we want...

www.pugetsystems.com

A psu fan only needs to turn on if the psu is under high load.
With a stronger than needed psu, you will always be operating at lower loads.
My Seasonic 750w psu includes a warning to not be alarmed if the fan never runs. Then, also, a psu will operate most efficiently in the middle third of it's range. I pay little note of the bronze, silver, gold... efficiency ratings.
The cost of running a pc is not great unless it is for crypto currency mining.

Of the two, I would pick the Corsair rm with the 10 year warranty.

 

[Worius]

Let me try to address your issues, in order:

Yes, I5 was a typo, I corrected my post.

There are NO performance implications of having integrated graphics vs. just the F

Not "wierd" at all.
No negatives with DDR5 except perhaps cost.
As a practical matter, your next cpu upgrade will also likely be accompanied by a motherboard upgrade.
For that, having DDR5 ram is likely to be a plus.

On wifi, you can always add a wifi adapter if you ever need one.

The main difference is that ATX motherboards will have 7 expansion slots, while MATX will have 4.
How many (past one for the graphics card) might you ever use?
MATX can fit in a smaller case if that might be important to you.
Here is a link to the different lga1700 chipsets.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1700
Apart from cpu overclocking, I see few relevant differences.

SSD synthetic benchmarks look impressive.
But in normal use, it is hard to tell the difference.
Here is an amusing video:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DKLA7w9eeA


m.2 devices are nice in that they take up little space and do not need psu and data connectors. Today, sata connected SSD devices would work perfectly fine, but there is not a big advantage in cost.
A 1tb samsung evo plus and a 2.5" samsung 870 sata ssd are each about $100.
You can find cheaper units, but Puget systems has had good reliability with Samsung:

Most Reliable PC Hardware of 2021

Here at Puget Systems, our goal is not only to provide the fastest workstations possible, but the most reliable as well. As a part of our constant drive to offer only the highest quality components possible, we track and regularly review the failure rates for each part we carry. Today, we want...

www.pugetsystems.com

A psu fan only needs to turn on if the psu is under high load.
With a stronger than needed psu, you will always be operating at lower loads.
My Seasonic 750w psu includes a warning to not be alarmed if the fan never runs. Then, also, a psu will operate most efficiently in the middle third of it's range. I pay little note of the bronze, silver, gold... efficiency ratings.
The cost of running a pc is not great unless it is for crypto currency mining.

Of the two, I would pick the Corsair rm with the 10 year warranty.

Ohh, I'm sorry I didn't specify. You thought I was going to buy that SSD, I already have it and will just reuse it. Otherwise, when I get more storage, I'll aim at 1tb+ sata ssds.
So, I'll just take the Corsair as it seems more reliable.

Thank you a lot for the tips and help. I appreciate everything. (Saved me a lot of problems for whenever I upgrade my GPU)