Hey guys! I'm having issues with power outage in my house and I'm looking for a ups to buy.
I have a 750Watt pc and a 240hz alienware monitor.
I'm thinking of buying a Powertech UPS Line-Interactive 1150VA 690W.
I just want to have time to shutdown the pc normally or just turn the power back up as it only takes 5 sec to do so.
Will it be enough ?
My pc specs are the following.
z390 aorus elite
i7-9700kf
rtx 2080 aorus
32gb ram
1 ssd/hdd and 1 m2
Coolermaster ml360r
750Watt Corsair PSU
and 3 extra fans running in the case.
Sorry if I posted on the wrong category!
Thanks in advance!
Also, I randomly started looking for an UPS, you didn't pass on a budget, your location and your preferred site for purchase. I just Googled; Powertech UPS Line-Interactive 1150VA 690W and that took me to a Greek site.
I'd look into an UPS with a little more headroom, doesn't hurt for operating the system in the long run(future upgrades to your C).
Waveform and design
For PCs, line-interactive UPS would be more than enough since PSUs can easily handle the 2ms to 5ms transfer time of line-interactive UPS.
As far as output waveform goes, true/pure sine wave UPS is best used. While simulated sine wave UPSes are cheaper than true/pure sine wave UPSes, PSUs with Active PFC aren't compatible with simulated sine wave. You might get simulated sine wave UPS running with Active PFC PSU but there can be some major issues. Here's what, how and why.
How do you know which PSUs have Active PFC and which ones don't?
Simple, every PSU that has 80+ certification (e.g 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) has Active PFC.
What can happen when using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU?
When simulated sine wave UPS switches over to the battery power, one of 3 things can happen:
UPS displays error resulting PC to shut down immediately.
UPS shuts down resulting PC to shut down immediately.
UPS switches to battery power resulting PC to power off from UPS (PC stays on).
Why it happens?
Simulated sine wave UPS produces a zero output state during the phase change cycle resulting in a power “gap”. This gap may cause power interruption for active PFC PSUs when switching from AC power output to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).
What to do next?
As stated above, your PC can run off from simulated sine wave UPS but be prepared when you face issues with it. When issues do rise, your best bet would be returning the simulated sine wave UPS and getting true/pure sine wave UPS. Or you can go with true/pure sine wave UPS off the bat.
Wattage
As far as UPS wattage goes, you need to consider the power draw of your PC and monitors. Maybe speakers and wi-fi router too if you plan to plug those into the UPS as well. Though, printers, scanners and other such hardware (full list on your UPS manual) don't plug to the UPS since their startup power draw is way too much for UPS to handle and you can fry your UPS.
Taking PSU's max wattage as a baseline is good idea since it will give your UPS more headroom and you can get longer runtime out of your UPS. Since your PSU is 750W, at least one monitor is added on top of it. Depending on the monitor size, they use between 23W to 52W. For more accurate power consumption, i need to know your monitor make & model (or part number) + any other piece of hardware make & model you're planning to plug into UPS. Also, i need to know your location (e.g USA, Germany, Italy, Australia etc) so i can suggest UPS with correct power sockets.. Wi-fi routers don't consume much power. For example, my Cisco EPC3940L consumes 12V at 3A which means 36W.
Good UPS brands to go for are CyberPower, TrippLite and APC. While there are other UPS brands as well, those three are the best out there.
Note: The more powerful UPS you have, the longer UPS can keep your PC running before it's battery is empty.
Btw, i have CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD UPSes, times two, in use with my PCs. (The very same ones, as linked by Lutfij above.)
For additional proof; under the spoiler is combined image of my UPSes, click on spoiler to view.
Top left: After unboxing
Top right: Power-on test
Bottom left: Haswell build UPS in service
Bottom right: Skylake build UPS in service
Yeah should've given a budget, that's on me. I'm from greece so skroutz works! I'm looking for something cheap right now but I might be able to give around 150 later on.
That one is kinda expensive for me tbh.
It seems that you've greatly underestimated the cost of an UPS. Since UPS'es job is to keep your PC running when there's blackout by supplying good and stable electricity to your PC, they also cost a lot of money. For example, i payed €230 Euros for one of my 1300VA/ 780W UPS. And i have two. So, i payed easy €450+ for both.
Since your PC is expensive, it's not easily replaced. Like it or not, if you want the protection, it's not going to be cheap. Though, if you want cheap and good UPS, you need to buy 2x UPSes; the cheap one and the good one.
Or let's put it another way. Lets say you cheap out and buy that €55 simulated sine wave UPS, but it turns out that it can not protect your PC and keep it running during power loss. Then what?
Power loss, at bare minimum, can corrupt your OS, or the worst, kill your PSU.
Is buying cheap UPS really worth the cost if it doesn't help? 🤔
Yeah I never had a UPS so I don't really know. I expected it to be expensive and was looking for a temporary cheap one untill I get enough money to get a good one!
I totally agree with you and appreciate ur time!
When it comes to PCs, there are two things to never cheap out on: PSU and UPS. Since both deal with power delivery, both have to be good quality. Else-ways, you'll face issues (cheap UPS can't keep the PC running and cheap PSU can die any moment, while kill everything it is connected to). The rest can be cheaped out on, especially GPU.
Personally, i'd rather buy weaker/cheaper GPU than cheaper PSU or UPS. In fact, i've already done that.
Back in the day (2016), when i bought 1st parts of my Skylake build (full specs with pics in my sig), i had a choice:
Buy GTX 1060 6GB and cheaper, but still good Seasonic M12II-620 EVO (80+ Bronze) PSU.
Or GTX 1060 3GB and better, Seasonic PRIME 650 (80+ Titanium) PSU.
I had 0 issues getting weaker GPU, since that gave me best 650W PSU money could buy. And because PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC, far outweighing the importance of a GPU.
I'll try getting one to be sure of what I'm gonna need.
Tried testing on a site that calculates the wattage you need and it says around 469Watt and 960VA recommended.
Will try to get a bigger budget and get a good one to be safe!
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